Exposure on Nikon F3

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Giovanni_1968
Giovanni_1968 Veteran Member • Posts: 3,322
Exposure on Nikon F3

The F3 has been sleeping for ages, got new batteries and two film rolls, an Ilford Delta 100ISO BW and an HP5 400ISO, now the Delta is loaded, took some shots with both my dad's old pre Ai (modified) lenses and with my 50 and 85 D f1.4 but wondering how does the camera evaluates exposure, too used to digital now and wondering how to work it out on analog.

The idea is to learn to develop on my own and then to eventually scan, got the F3 manual so I can read about exposure but any hint would greatly be appreciated.

Grazie

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Giovanni - 70% GAS affected
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Overrank Senior Member • Posts: 2,254
Re: Exposure on Nikon F3
1

Giovanni_1968 wrote:

The F3 has been sleeping for ages, got new batteries and two film rolls, an Ilford Delta 100ISO BW and an HP5 400ISO, now the Delta is loaded, took some shots with both my dad's old pre Ai (modified) lenses and with my 50 and 85 D f1.4 but wondering how does the camera evaluates exposure, too used to digital now and wondering how to work it out on analog.

The idea is to learn to develop on my own and then to eventually scan, got the F3 manual so I can read about exposure but any hint would greatly be appreciated.

Grazie

If you haven’t seen it already this is the manual for the F3 - https://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/archive/F3.pdf

The meter on the F3 is biased 80:20 to the 12mm circle in the viewfinder, which means you can get slightly different readings than for a 60:40 meter in other Nikons.  Personally, in most cases I just set the shutter speed to A and use it as a aperture priority automatic.  With negative film the exposure is pretty much spot on in most cases.

Remember that meters differ depending on their calibration and age, that shutter speeds are rarely 100% accurate, and that even the aperture itself may not be 100%.   But it nearly always comes out in the wash.

Giovanni_1968
OP Giovanni_1968 Veteran Member • Posts: 3,322
Re: Exposure on Nikon F3

Overrank wrote:

If you haven’t seen it already this is the manual for the F3 - https://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/archive/F3.pdf

The meter on the F3 is biased 80:20 to the 12mm circle in the viewfinder, which means you can get slightly different readings than for a 60:40 meter in other Nikons. Personally, in most cases I just set the shutter speed to A and use it as a aperture priority automatic. With negative film the exposure is pretty much spot on in most cases.

Remember that meters differ depending on their calibration and age, that shutter speeds are rarely 100% accurate, and that even the aperture itself may not be 100%. But it nearly always comes out in the wash.

I guess I will have to send the negative to develop soon and figure it out myself, the old trial and error technique... unfortunately here where I live nobody does it any longer and as such have to wait to be able to get onto the mainland bla bla bla

By the way I always shoot A so I leave the camera the duty to pick an adequate shutter speed.

I was reading, with regards to the film being used that it can be "pushed" to ISO80 rather than 100, I assume but am probably wrong, that it is suitable as to get more detail into the shadows whilst the emulsion can kind of resist excessive highlight, might that be the case?

Grazie

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Overrank Senior Member • Posts: 2,254
Re: Exposure on Nikon F3

Giovanni_1968 wrote:

Overrank wrote:

If you haven’t seen it already this is the manual for the F3 - https://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/archive/F3.pdf

The meter on the F3 is biased 80:20 to the 12mm circle in the viewfinder, which means you can get slightly different readings than for a 60:40 meter in other Nikons. Personally, in most cases I just set the shutter speed to A and use it as a aperture priority automatic. With negative film the exposure is pretty much spot on in most cases.

Remember that meters differ depending on their calibration and age, that shutter speeds are rarely 100% accurate, and that even the aperture itself may not be 100%. But it nearly always comes out in the wash.

I guess I will have to send the negative to develop soon and figure it out myself, the old trial and error technique... unfortunately here where I live nobody does it any longer and as such have to wait to be able to get onto the mainland bla bla bla

By the way I always shoot A so I leave the camera the duty to pick an adequate shutter speed.

I was reading, with regards to the film being used that it can be "pushed" to ISO80 rather than 100, I assume but am probably wrong, that it is suitable as to get more detail into the shadows whilst the emulsion can kind of resist excessive highlight, might that be the case?

Grazie

There’s two uses of pushing and pulling, (shooting 100ISO film at 80 would be pulling).  There’s pushing and pulling where you shoot the film at a different speed and then correct for it in development, there’s also just shooting the film not at the box speed, developing as normal,  and letting the latitude of the film take care of it.  I suspect shooting 100 at 80 would be the second, just slightly overexposing the film.   Most consumer negative film takes overexposure very well so I sometimes deliberately over expose (say 200 ISO at 100) to get finer grain (XP2 is good for this).

ross attix
ross attix Contributing Member • Posts: 566
Re: Exposure on Nikon F3

Giovanni_1968 wrote:

Overrank wrote:

If you haven’t seen it already this is the manual for the F3 - https://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/archive/F3.pdf

The meter on the F3 is biased 80:20 to the 12mm circle in the viewfinder, which means you can get slightly different readings than for a 60:40 meter in other Nikons. Personally, in most cases I just set the shutter speed to A and use it as a aperture priority automatic. With negative film the exposure is pretty much spot on in most cases.

Remember that meters differ depending on their calibration and age, that shutter speeds are rarely 100% accurate, and that even the aperture itself may not be 100%. But it nearly always comes out in the wash.

I guess I will have to send the negative to develop soon and figure it out myself, the old trial and error technique... unfortunately here where I live nobody does it any longer and as such have to wait to be able to get onto the mainland bla bla bla

By the way I always shoot A so I leave the camera the duty to pick an adequate shutter speed.

I was reading, with regards to the film being used that it can be "pushed" to ISO80 rather than 100, I assume but am probably wrong, that it is suitable as to get more detail into the shadows whilst the emulsion can kind of resist excessive highlight, might that be the case?

Grazie

I am not sure I understand what question you are asking. Is it about how the meter works on the F3? If so, another person answered that.

But then you mentioned having to send the film in for development and using a “trial and error technique” so were you referring to running a snip test?  
If your question is just about how to expose and develop film, and are talking about negative film, you should expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights.

This is why-If you took a cross section of a developed negative, the highlights are the thickest, shadows the thinnest. If you do not have enough exposure to hold detail in the shadows, you will never get it by over developing mostly because there isn’t enough density for the developer to react with.

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Ross Attix

Giovanni_1968
OP Giovanni_1968 Veteran Member • Posts: 3,322
Re: Exposure on Nikon F3

ross attix wrote:

I am not sure I understand what question you are asking. Is it about how the meter works on the F3? If so, another person answered that.

Yep, mostly that.

But then you mentioned having to send the film in for development and using a “trial and error technique” so were you referring to running a snip test?

Nope, there is no laboratory locally so I will have to expose the whole thing then go to the nearest town (Napoli which is 18NM across with ocean in between) and hand it to my printing service who, on their own, have a guy who goes through once a week to collect, develop, deliver... that's why, if I like it, I'd then like to develop myself which I know not being rocket science.

If your question is just about how to expose and develop film, and are talking about negative film, you should expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights.

Ok, this is important to know, grazie mille!

This is why-If you took a cross section of a developed negative, the highlights are the thickest, shadows the thinnest. If you do not have enough exposure to hold detail in the shadows, you will never get it by over developing mostly because there isn’t enough density for the developer to react with.

When I first laid my hands onto the Fuji S5Pro digital camera I learnt that, tanks to its particular S-CCD sensor, one can concentrate on shadows with little chance to burn highlights, what a camera it was (still have one), pity I wasn't really good at using it back then.

Grazie

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TJer
TJer Forum Member • Posts: 54
Re: Exposure on Nikon F3

You may find it much easier to predict your results by adding or subtracting stops with your compensation than to “push” or “pull” your ISO/ASA. In either case it may wise to bracket your exposures depending on your confidence in your exposure.

If you insist on “pushing and pulling”, you may want to get yourself a handheld light meter or add an app to your phone to do the same (as I do).

The apps are very inexpensive and, from my experience, really reliable. My favorite apps are the “MyLightMeter” $1.99 or $3.99 for the “Pro” version (preferred); and “theLightMeterWheel” $1.99; both of which are available from the App Store (sorry, don’t know about non-Apple availability). There are many more but these are the most accurate from my experience and actual use.

Hope this helps!

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When I want a good photo, I shoot digital. When I want a great photo, I shoot film!

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Giovanni_1968
OP Giovanni_1968 Veteran Member • Posts: 3,322
Re: Exposure on Nikon F3

TJer wrote:

You may find it much easier to predict your results by adding or subtracting stops with your compensation than to “push” or “pull” your ISO/ASA. In either case it may wise to bracket your exposures depending on your confidence in your exposure.

If you insist on “pushing and pulling”, you may want to get yourself a handheld light meter or add an app to your phone to do the same (as I do).

The apps are very inexpensive and, from my experience, really reliable. My favorite apps are the “MyLightMeter” $1.99 or $3.99 for the “Pro” version (preferred); and “theLightMeterWheel” $1.99; both of which are available from the App Store (sorry, don’t know about non-Apple availability). There are many more but these are the most accurate from my experience and actual use.

Hope this helps!

Grazie for your suggestions

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Giovanni - 70% GAS affected
http://www.flickr.com/photos/giovanniaprea/
Nikon D850 - Nikon D800 - Nikon D2Xs - Fuji S5Pro - Nikon F - Nikon F3
J.A. Michell Gyrodec - Audio Research SP-9 - Aeron AP-890 - JBL4311B - JBL L220
JN70CN - 14.14.30E 40.32.40N

 Giovanni_1968's gear list:Giovanni_1968's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro Nikon D2Xs Nikon D800 Nikon AF-S Micro-Nikkor 60mm F2.8G ED Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D +16 more
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