Fd to ef mounting???

Started 3 months ago | Discussions
Ben Guss Junior Member • Posts: 34
Fd to ef mounting???

I purchased a vivitar 100 mm macro lens with a FD bayonet mount. The adapter I have does not want to secure to this lens. Is it an issue with the wrong adapter? My process is lining the red dots up then trying to secure the ring into the lock position. I've also tried a slew of other configurations none of which work.

For the help and advice

Sittatunga Senior Member • Posts: 2,942
Re: Fd to ef mounting???

Ben Guss wrote:

I purchased a vivitar 100 mm macro lens with a FD bayonet mount. The adapter I have does not want to secure to this lens. Is it an issue with the wrong adapter? My process is lining the red dots up then trying to secure the ring into the lock position. I've also tried a slew of other configurations none of which work.

For the help and advice

First of all, not that it matters that much if you're only going to use the lens for macro, you will never get infinity focus if that adapter is to an EF mount, as it's effectively an extension tube of 2mm plus its thickness.

It's probably going to be easiest to mount the adapter to the camera first, contrary to the usual adapter advice. Make sure the camera is switched off first so that the shutter is closed to keep dust off the sensor.

That LOCK<--->OPEN ring is confusingly labelled for me. It needs to be in the OPEN position to mount the lens, i.e. rotated in the direction of the arrow towards the word OPEN so that the word LOCK is against the white dot, as in your picture. It controls the stop-down lever at the bottom of the FD mount, which only stops the iris down to the working aperture when the lens is mounted. That lever will lock to the right with chrome ring Canon FD lenses, making the LOCK<--->OPEN ring redundant. I would do that with your Vivitar lens if you can, as the lens won't otherwise mount to the adapter if the LOCK<--->OPEN ring is in the wrong position.

Make sure the breech lock ring of your lens is rotated so that the red dot is aligned with the aperture and focus index of the lens (there's a click stop and lock there with Canon brand chrome ring FD lenses) then line up the lens with the red dot in line with the slot at the top of the external bayonet, offer up the lens and turn the lock ring to secure the lens. (It starts to rotate automatically when the lens is in position with Canon brand chrome ring FD lenses).

Hope that helps.

OP Ben Guss Junior Member • Posts: 34
Re: Fd to ef mounting???

Thanks for the detailed response! I believe I was following your instructions however when I try to secure secured lens with the rotating locking mechanism containing the Red Dot on the lens it will not engage into the locking position as it seems blocked by the adapter.

Sittatunga Senior Member • Posts: 2,942
Re: Fd to ef mounting???

Ben Guss wrote:

Thanks for the detailed response! I believe I was following your instructions however when I try to secure secured lens with the rotating locking mechanism containing the Red Dot on the lens it will not engage into the locking position as it seems blocked by the adapter.

If you have access to an FD or FL mount camera you can check whether it's the adapter or the lens that's the problem by seeing if that lens will mount to the camera.

I don't know how familiar you are with FD mount lenses, but there's a description of how they work in this thread from a couple of years ago here: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61140873

While that thread is specially about the New FD lenses, the controls have exactly the same effect and the camera can't tell the difference.

This is a picture of my chrome ring FD lens ready to be mounted on my FD to EF-M adapter. The silver locating stud between the chrome ring and the date code fits in the slot in the bayonet lug of the adapter where the small red dot is.

Offering up the lens to the adapter, just before the chrome ring is released to rotate and lock the lens to the adapter. The post I referred to earlier has pictures of the inside of the adapter showing the positions of the basis control levers. Don't use the adapted lens with the aperture ring in this A position as that's the position used by the A and T series cameras to mechanically set the aperture from the camera body. You would just get the minimum aperture of the lens of you used it like this on an adapter.

Pushed home and the chrome ring has automatically rotated this far. It still needs to be tightened, but the lens won't fall off the adapter like this.

Troubleshooting.

The control ring on the adapter does need to be rotated fully clockwise as seen from behind the adapter before you mount the lens. If you don't do this, either the lens won't seat properly so the lock ring won't rotate or the prong to move the stop-down lever will be on the wrong side to move it. The bayonet lugs might be too thick or too close to the camera body, which could stop the ring moving, but that's unlikely. If anything they tend to be too thin, which isn't usually a problem as the ring just moves a little further to tighten up. The lens mating surface behind the lugs of the lock ring might be filthy, preventing the lens from mounting properly, but in that case it wouldn't mount to a film SLR camera either. The lock ring might be dented, bit it looked ok in your pictures. Canon lenses have a leaf spring just by the locating stud which locks the chrome ring in the mounting position. You can unlock it with a thumbnail to check that the ring moves freely - don't forget to lock it again before you try to mount the lens.

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