Best button and dial settings for C1 and C2 on M6 mkII

I am one of those real camera novice and sleepers and my userid goes back all the way to 2014 when I first bought the original EOS - M in 2013.

I sold it last week just a day after listing for an astounding amount of US$165 with a 18-55 mm lens).

Reason for the sale (even though it is old I love it being so small, solid built and it had this beautiful iron man red),  is I just bought a M6MkII 3 weeks ago and they couldnt fit into the dry box with ease (yes I  know I missed all the models beginning from M2, M3, M5, M50, M100, M200 upgrades)

The decision to buy was very heavily influenced by the happy experiences and views of forumers here.

So what settings should I be making on those buttons?

I know there is a tips and tricks thread on it but not much on there unless I am wrong. thanks

Could you please tell us something about your photography?  What do you shoot?

thunder storm wrote:

Could you please tell us something about your photography? What do you shoot?

Thanks for being helpful and gentle, am totally new to the camera functionality (coming from the little M).

I guess I should like something of variety: on macro (taking close up on watches for example), small family photos, 1 person portraits, and normal people in sports.

Want high rate of sharp in focus keepers on them.

I tried fiddling with these functions on my dial:

P, Tv, Av, M, Fv, SCN, A+

But thought I should have also customised C1 and C2 to add to these.

ericch wrote:

thunder storm wrote:

Could you please tell us something about your photography? What do you shoot?

Thanks for being helpful and gentle, am totally new to the camera functionality (coming from the little M).

I guess I should like something of variety: on macro (taking close up on watches for example), small family photos, 1 person portraits, and normal people in sports.

Want high rate of sharp in focus keepers on them.

I tried fiddling with these functions on my dial:

P, Tv, Av, M, Fv, SCN, A+

But thought I should have also customised C1 and C2 to add to these.

n macro (taking close up on watches for example),

What lens are you using for that? I don't see a macro lens.  What shutterspeeds do you use for this?

small family photos, 1 person portraits,

I don't really see a dedicated portrait lens. The 22mm is great for the family pictures, but not so great for 1 person portraits, unless it's more environmental. What shutterspeeds do you use for this?

and normal people in sports.

Probably this requires M with ISO auto.

It's a bit difficult to help you, as you are starting with the last question, skipping lots of other questions. In general I find C-modes nice to quickly skip between different modes (M/Av/Tv) with different minimum shutter speeds or no minimum shutter speed. Your 22mm is short and the rest of your lenses are stabilized, so for portraits you a minimum shutter speed of 1/125th in Av mode can be nice. That could be C1.

For Macro and Sports M + auto ISO could be the best. That could be C2. You might also want to use a minimum shutter speed or Tv mode for sports.  You've to find out your preferences first, actually.

thunder storm wrote:

ericch wrote:

thunder storm wrote:

Could you please tell us something about your photography? What do you shoot?

Thanks for being helpful and gentle, am totally new to the camera functionality (coming from the little M).

I guess I should like something of variety: on macro (taking close up on watches for example), small family photos, 1 person portraits, and normal people in sports.

Want high rate of sharp in focus keepers on them.

I tried fiddling with these functions on my dial:

P, Tv, Av, M, Fv, SCN, A+

But thought I should have also customised C1 and C2 to add to these.

n macro (taking close up on watches for example),

What lens are you using for that? I don't see a macro lens. What shutterspeeds do you use for this?

small family photos, 1 person portraits,

I don't really see a dedicated portrait lens. The 22mm is great for the family pictures, but not so great for 1 person portraits, unless it's more environmental. What shutterspeeds do you use for this?

and normal people in sports.

Probably this requires M with ISO auto.

It's a bit difficult to help you, as you are starting with the last question, skipping lots of other questions. In general I find C-modes nice to quickly skip between different modes (M/Av/Tv) with different minimum shutter speeds or no minimum shutter speed. Your 22mm is short and the rest of your lenses are stabilized, so for portraits you a minimum shutter speed of 1/125th in Av mode can be nice. That could be C1.

For Macro and Sports M + auto ISO could be the best. That could be C2. You might also want to use a minimum shutter speed or Tv mode for sports. You've to find out your preferences first, actually.

storm, thanks.

Wasn't thinking of acquiring another lens (Ef-M 28) given I was freeing my dry box for more space for watches as well. So just some close up shots not a macro. No idea what to use for shutterspeed (maybe 1/125 ?). (would the 22 mm work for close up?)

What's your recommendation (can my 18-150 mm be used for protrait?) or I need to add the 32 mm or Sigma 56 mm ?

I guess I am thinking to put to use C1 and C2 if they can be preset to something different from the pre set function.

ericch wrote:

thunder storm wrote:

ericch wrote:

thunder storm wrote:

Could you please tell us something about your photography? What do you shoot?

Thanks for being helpful and gentle, am totally new to the camera functionality (coming from the little M).

I guess I should like something of variety: on macro (taking close up on watches for example), small family photos, 1 person portraits, and normal people in sports.

Want high rate of sharp in focus keepers on them.

I tried fiddling with these functions on my dial:

P, Tv, Av, M, Fv, SCN, A+

But thought I should have also customised C1 and C2 to add to these.

n macro (taking close up on watches for example),

What lens are you using for that? I don't see a macro lens. What shutterspeeds do you use for this?

small family photos, 1 person portraits,

I don't really see a dedicated portrait lens. The 22mm is great for the family pictures, but not so great for 1 person portraits, unless it's more environmental. What shutterspeeds do you use for this?

and normal people in sports.

Probably this requires M with ISO auto.

It's a bit difficult to help you, as you are starting with the last question, skipping lots of other questions. In general I find C-modes nice to quickly skip between different modes (M/Av/Tv) with different minimum shutter speeds or no minimum shutter speed. Your 22mm is short and the rest of your lenses are stabilized, so for portraits you a minimum shutter speed of 1/125th in Av mode can be nice. That could be C1.

For Macro and Sports M + auto ISO could be the best. That could be C2. You might also want to use a minimum shutter speed or Tv mode for sports. You've to find out your preferences first, actually.

storm, thanks.

Wasn't thinking of acquiring another lens (Ef-M 28) given I was freeing my dry box for more space for watches as well. So just some close up shots not a macro.

O.k.

No idea what to use for shutterspeed (maybe 1/125 ?). (would the 22 mm work for close up?)

It has a magnification of 0.21, but some reported it can get closer than the specs. The 22mm has no stabilization, but as long as you can manage to bring in enough light that's not a problem.  Close up shutter speeds isn't really my thing, ask someone else.

What's your recommendation (can my 18-150 mm be used for protrait?) or I need to add the 32 mm or Sigma 56 mm ?

32mm is more flexible. It's a great portrait lens, usable for single person portraits and 2 or 3 persons in the frame as well. It's also usable as a walk around general focal  length. It also has a 0.5 magnification, which is great for close up, although it still has no IS (again: try to find out if you need that for close up shots). The 56mm (in general) is the best for single person portraits, but the 32mm serves more purposes.

Your 18-150mm has a magnification factor of 0.31.  If that works for you, you already have a stabilized lens for close up stuff. For close up you might need to stop down anyway, unless you're willing to do focus stacking.

I guess I am thinking to put to use C1 and C2 if they can be preset to something different from the pre set function.

I like to do HDR photography (on the computer, not in camera). So for me C1 is set for 7 exposure bracketing and ISO 400.

I generally use my M6II, as well as my other cameras, in Av mode, single shot.  For action, I have saved Av, fastest multi-shot, and fastest AF to C1 so I can switch to that quickly when needed. On the M6II I have saved the optimal settings for the Sigma 56mm portrait lens to C2, face tracking, slower multi-shot, etc.

The M6II has lots of modes and settings. I would suggest using it a while to see what settings are most useful for your uses then saving these to the C1 and C2 custom modes.

The M6II has excellent focus bracketing and burst modes. Unfortunately these cannot be saved to the custom mode dial positions. Under the menu list there is a My Menu heading where you can save menu items you want to access quickly. I have saved focus bracketing and burst mode here.

Neal Bkk wrote:

I like to do HDR photography (on the computer, not in camera). So for me C1 is set for 7 exposure bracketing and ISO 400.

thank you.

what is  7 exposure bracketing and what is it used for?

nolten wrote:

I generally use my M6II, as well as my other cameras, in Av mode, single shot. For action, I have saved Av, fastest multi-shot, and fastest AF to C1 so I can switch to that quickly when needed. On the M6II I have saved the optimal settings for the Sigma 56mm portrait lens to C2, face tracking, slower multi-shot, etc.

The M6II has lots of modes and settings. I would suggest using it a while to see what settings are most useful for your uses then saving these to the C1 and C2 custom modes.

The M6II has excellent focus bracketing and burst modes. Unfortunately these cannot be saved to the custom mode dial positions. Under the menu list there is a My Menu heading where you can save menu items you want to access quickly. I have saved focus bracketing and burst mode here.

thanks, your reply is very helpful. I am looking to clone what forumers have done for their setting C1 and C2 and would adopt same.

burst meaning 30 fps?

I might do a setting with electronic shutter (silent) , is that possible for C1 or C2 or it needs to go into My Menu too.

Yes, burst is the 30 FPS mode.  You could use a custom mode to save full electronic shutter (silent mode) but I use this as the default in Av mode since I'm not usually panning the camera.

Again, I'll point out, it took me a while to figure out what to store in the custom modes while I was gaining experience on what was useful to me frequently or just occasionally.  It sounds to me like you are in this learning phase.  Just use your camera, it will usually give you great images in whatever mode you are using.

For info, my C1 is for long exposure, ISO 100, F8, 2sec. delay...

ericch wrote:

Neal Bkk wrote:

I like to do HDR photography (on the computer, not in camera). So for me C1 is set for 7 exposure bracketing and ISO 400.

thank you.

what is 7 exposure bracketing and what is it used for?

HDR High Dynamic Range, used for pics where there are a lot of bright and dark area, each exposure capture a range of light level then they are mixed to get a picture

thunder storm wrote:

32mm is more flexible. It's a great portrait lens, usable for single person portraits and 2 or 3 persons in the frame as well. It's also usable as a walk around general focal length. It also has a 0.5 magnification, which is great for close up, although it still has no IS (again: try to find out if you need that for close up shots). The 56mm (in general) is the best for single person portraits, but the 32mm serves more purposes.

Small correction: the 32mm only has 0.25x magnification. 0.5x would have been really impressive on top of all the other attributes of that lens.

TBIRallySport wrote:

thunder storm wrote:

32mm is more flexible. It's a great portrait lens, usable for single person portraits and 2 or 3 persons in the frame as well. It's also usable as a walk around general focal length. It also has a 0.5 magnification, which is great for close up, although it still has no IS (again: try to find out if you need that for close up shots). The 56mm (in general) is the best for single person portraits, but the 32mm serves more purposes.

Small correction: the 32mm only has 0.25x magnification. 0.5x would have been really impressive on top of all the other attributes of that lens.

Seeing that this 32 mm lens is universally so highly regarded, I went to buy one yesterday. Man it is really a fantastic lens!!

A must have lens !!!!!

TBIRallySport wrote:

thunder storm wrote:

32mm is more flexible. It's a great portrait lens, usable for single person portraits and 2 or 3 persons in the frame as well. It's also usable as a walk around general focal length. It also has a 0.5 magnification, which is great for close up, although it still has no IS (again: try to find out if you need that for close up shots). The 56mm (in general) is the best for single person portraits, but the 32mm serves more purposes.

Small correction: the 32mm only has 0.25x magnification. 0.5x would have been really impressive on top of all the other attributes of that lens.

My bad!  Thanks!

ericch wrote:

Seeing that this 32 mm lens is universally so highly regarded, I went to buy one yesterday. Man it is really a fantastic lens!!

A must have lens !!!!!

Outstanding choice! Now you can use it for your portraits and action shooting too.

I’m kind of old-fashioned and still use Servo with Spot AF for most everything, except for people when they’re fairly near (Eye AF kicks butt then). I also shoot short bursts for everything (then cherry-pick the best). This lets me shoot at slower than normal shutter speeds in low light (poor-man’s image stabilization).

Use your C Modes for alternate shooting situations, like “action” or “macro” or “portraits” etc. That way you won’t have to futz with a bunch of settings when you want to quickly change subjects.

Enjoy your new kit!

R2

ps. For action shooting, be sure to keep your shutter speed up.  Don’t be afraid to shoot wide open.  The M6ii’s AF is definitely up to task.

R2D2 wrote:

ericch wrote:

Seeing that this 32 mm lens is universally so highly regarded, I went to buy one yesterday. Man it is really a fantastic lens!!

A must have lens !!!!!

I’m kind of old-fashioned and still use Servo with Spot AF for most everything,

(snip)

ps. For action shooting, be sure to keep your shutter speed up. Don’t be afraid to shoot wide open. The M6ii’s AF is definitely up to task.

Not sure if the AF of the M6mkII is as good in subject tracking mode for action compared to doing things in "your" "old fashioned way."

ericch wrote:

TBIRallySport wrote:

thunder storm wrote:

32mm is more flexible. It's a great portrait lens, usable for single person portraits and 2 or 3 persons in the frame as well. It's also usable as a walk around general focal length. It also has a 0.5 magnification, which is great for close up, although it still has no IS (again: try to find out if you need that for close up shots). The 56mm (in general) is the best for single person portraits, but the 32mm serves more purposes.

Small correction: the 32mm only has 0.25x magnification. 0.5x would have been really impressive on top of all the other attributes of that lens.

Seeing that this 32 mm lens is universally so highly regarded, I went to buy one yesterday. Man it is really a fantastic lens!!

A must have lens !!!!!

Good decision!!!  Some lenses are both expensive andbang for the buck. There's just so much bang.

ericch wrote:

nolten wrote:

I generally use my M6II, as well as my other cameras, in Av mode, single shot. For action, I have saved Av, fastest multi-shot, and fastest AF to C1 so I can switch to that quickly when needed. On the M6II I have saved the optimal settings for the Sigma 56mm portrait lens to C2, face tracking, slower multi-shot, etc.

The M6II has lots of modes and settings. I would suggest using it a while to see what settings are most useful for your uses then saving these to the C1 and C2 custom modes.

The M6II has excellent focus bracketing and burst modes. Unfortunately these cannot be saved to the custom mode dial positions. Under the menu list there is a My Menu heading where you can save menu items you want to access quickly. I have saved focus bracketing and burst mode here.

thanks, your reply is very helpful. I am looking to clone what forumers have done for their setting C1 and C2 and would adopt same.

Once you've cloned them and start getting comfortable, think about what changes would make the camera work better for you.  That's when you know you've mastered it, when C1 and C2 contain your own settings that are spot on for you.

burst meaning 30 fps?

I might do a setting with electronic shutter (silent) , is that possible for C1 or C2 or it needs to go into My Menu too.