1080p on 8 meter screen

Hello,

I am willing to project a 3d video with 1080p resolution on a screen with 8 meter wide.

Any idea about the viewing experience?

I intend to use two 4k projectors (passive 3d). I heard there are projectors in the market which upscale HD quality close to 4k.

It's best to prepare your streams from 1080p to 4k in advance.

An example: Upscale 1080P to 4K

The viewing experience is determined by several factors.
The most important factor is that the 3D material must be designed to be viewed on large screens (exaggerated 3D depth is not recommended).

3D Gunner wrote:

It's best to prepare your streams from 1080p to 4k in advance.

An example: Upscale 1080P to 4K

The viewing experience is determined by several factors.
The most important factor is that the 3D material must be designed to be viewed on large screens (exaggerated 3D depth is not recommended).

NICE! does this really work? upscaling with software!

I will try it

Yes it works. On this occasion you can reposition the image depth relative to the stereoscopic window, an operation that may be necessary if the movie is not designed for projection on a big screen. An 8 meter wide screen is the equivalent of a small cinema screen.

That's amazing! it really worked.

Thank youuuuu

Why is software upscaling needed?

A good projector can upscale 1080 videos nicely by hardware, isn't?

Which 4k projector will u use?

If the 1st row viewers sit no closer than the screen diagonal, i think 1080 resolution is more than enough. Afterall your source video is 1080 when i understand it right.

I have a 160" diagonal screen (about 3.5 meter wide). I project onto it with an Optoma UHD52ALV 4K projector in bluray 3D (HD MPO file images in bluray 3D frame-packed format). The projector projects the two 3D images in 1080p, but they are really nice to look at. That said if you can project two passive 4k upscaled images on an 8 meter wide screen. It would be the same effect I'm seeing, and the detail should be very nice. That said, the audience should be at least 8 meters or further away, though. And the objects at infinity in your 3D images should be close to 6.35 centimeters apart (2.5") at most to start with, especially if people sit closer than 8 meters. As you go beyond 6.35 centimeters (or 2.5") your eyes tend to turn out from each other to view the image. If you are far enough from the screen this is a marginal problem, but close up, it can be a headache, especially in young children. In fact I don't recommend allowing children to view this size image. It can be mind blowing to them, if they are too close. You might also find that if you keep objects at infinity at 6.35 cm, it might force a lot of closer object out of the 3D window into the audience area. This is actually fun to watch if you can keep these objects from touching the sides of the 3D window.  You will have to experiment before showing this to more people, trust me, I've had people throw their glasses down when things either got to far out of the window or to far apart at infinity.

As I have said several times, the 3D material must be designed from the start for the average size at which it is intended to be seen.

The viewers do not understand the technicalities and only perceive the 3D material as good or bad.

relaxman wrote:

Why is software upscaling needed?

A good projector can upscale 1080 videos nicely by hardware, isn't?

Which 4k projector will u use?

If the 1st row viewers sit no closer than the screen diagonal, i think 1080 resolution is more than enough. Afterall your source video is 1080 when i understand it right.

Yes I heard about upscaling projectors but don't know any. Do you?

The upscaling software produced a better quality. With upscaling projectors I will get very good picture.

3D Gunner wrote:

As I have said several times, the 3D material must be designed from the start for the average size at which it is intended to be seen.

The viewers do not understand the technicalities and only perceive the 3D material as good or bad.

Yes, You are right

threed123 wrote:

I have a 160" diagonal screen (about 3.5 meter wide). I project onto it with an Optoma UHD52ALV 4K projector in bluray 3D (HD MPO file images in bluray 3D frame-packed format). The projector projects the two 3D images in 1080p, but they are really nice to look at. That said if you can project two passive 4k upscaled images on an 8 meter wide screen. It would be the same effect I'm seeing, and the detail should be very nice. That said, the audience should be at least 8 meters or further away, though. And the objects at infinity in your 3D images should be close to 6.35 centimeters apart (2.5") at most to start with, especially if people sit closer than 8 meters. As you go beyond 6.35 centimeters (or 2.5") your eyes tend to turn out from each other to view the image. If you are far enough from the screen this is a marginal problem, but close up, it can be a headache, especially in young children. In fact I don't recommend allowing children to view this size image. It can be mind blowing to them, if they are too close. You might also find that if you keep objects at infinity at 6.35 cm, it might force a lot of closer object out of the 3D window into the audience area. This is actually fun to watch if you can keep these objects from touching the sides of the 3D window. You will have to experiment before showing this to more people, trust me, I've had people throw their glasses down when things either got to far out of the window or to far apart at infinity.

Thanks for the information.

I project on 4 meter wide with distance of 4 meters. I tested on some viewers (30 friends) and they were very comfortable. So for bigger screen You say I must have further distance.

rablaw 3d wrote:

I project on 4 meter wide with distance of 4 meters. I tested on some viewers (30 friends) and they were very comfortable. So for bigger screen You say I must have further distance.

Yes, for several reasons. As the screen gets bigger so do the pixels, so you want to make sure that viewers can't see the pixel grid.

As for upscaling. All 4K projectors will upscale 1080p images to 4K, unless you are using a projector that has a vibrating 1080p imager that produces 4k from that imager, but stops vibrating when showing 1080p 3D. But two single 4K projectors will project 2D 4K images for each eye.

But, if you are using twin 4k projectors using passive 3D glasses. You will need a screen that maintains polarization of eye image of course, not all screen materials do that. That is the downside. The upside is that each image can be 3840 x 2160 pixels vs. 1920x1080 pixels, therefore projecting a more detailed image. When your eyes merge two 4K images, they don't actually see a 4K 3D image, but more like an 8K 3D image. Reason being there is a phenomenon when watching 3D images where each eye is NOT seeing the same pixels as the other eye, but a combined set of pixels that get fused into a 3D image, thus basically doubling the pixels to the brain. It's the reason why 3D images sometimes look more detailed than flat 2D images of the same scene.

For passive 3D, the best solution is with 2 projectors on a normal white screen and 3D glasses with interference filters as for Dolby 3D systems.

3D Gunner wrote:

For passive 3D, the best solution is with 2 projectors on a normal white screen and 3D glasses with interference filters as for Dolby 3D systems.

I think this is the only interference system still available, first invented in 2012 by Omega. Omega 3D Passive 3D System (studio3d.com)

Pricey, but you don't need a silver screen for passive polarization. You will need at least 3,000 lumens per projector, even more if you can get it, or maybe a couple laser projectors. Problem with normal white screens is they usually don't have much more than a 1.0 light gain, and a 3 meter screen (I am assuming a 16:9 screen). 5000 lumens would be best on a screen that size. There are some stretch-canvas screens out there. In fact, Carl's screens has silver 3D screen material that is huge for polarization.

Projector Screen Material, Movie Screen Material, Projector Screen Fabric, Projector Screen Cloth, Carls Projector Screen, Carls Place Projector Screen, Finished Edges, FlexiWhite, FlexiGray, ALR, Blackout Cloth, Ambient Light Rejecting, UST, Short Throw (carlofet.com)

The Dolby 3D system was withdrawn in 2018, but the glasses are still available.

I am a bit confused.. which mode is better? Passive or Active (with active glasses)?

threed123 wrote:

3D Gunner wrote:

For passive 3D, the best solution is with 2 projectors on a normal white screen and 3D glasses with interference filters as for Dolby 3D systems.

I think this is the only interference system still available, first invented in 2012 by Omega. Omega 3D Passive 3D System (studio3d.com)

Pricey, but you don't need a silver screen for passive polarization. You will need at least 3,000 lumens per projector, even more if you can get it, or maybe a couple laser projectors. Problem with normal white screens is they usually don't have much more than a 1.0 light gain, and a 3 meter screen (I am assuming a 16:9 screen). 5000 lumens would be best on a screen that size. There are some stretch-canvas screens out there. In fact, Carl's screens has silver 3D screen material that is huge for polarization.

Projector Screen Material, Movie Screen Material, Projector Screen Fabric, Projector Screen Cloth, Carls Projector Screen, Carls Place Projector Screen, Finished Edges, FlexiWhite, FlexiGray, ALR, Blackout Cloth, Ambient Light Rejecting, UST, Short Throw (carlofet.com)

The Dolby 3D system was withdrawn in 2018, but the glasses are still available.

Cost is not an issue.

What is best? Passive or Active polarization? concerning ghosting, brightness and total viewer experience.

rablaw 3d wrote:

I am a bit confused.. which mode is better? Passive or Active (with active glasses)?

My experience is that active is better. I have watched both and passive tends to have some crosstalk if you tilt your eyes. That is with polarized passive. I have no experience with the Dolby 3D system, but I hear there is little crosstalk.

I have an Optoma UHD52ALV 4K projector and watch bluray 1080p frame-packed 3D with DLP glasses. There are two types of active glasses. Ones that use an RF signal to open and close each eye and the DLP type, which depends on a flash of light to tell the glasses to open and close. I get absolutely no crosstalk. I will say, though, that I have a high-gain 160" diagonal screen that gives me, where I sit, about a 1.8 image light gain, and it's just enough light for that screen (this screen is no longer made, however). If you are looking at getting a 1 gain huge screen, you are going to need a lot more lumens, probably 5,000 if you want to use a single projector for 3D. Both active glass types reduce the image light by almost half.

By "normal white screen" I intended to be understood to be a non silver screen. Can be a high gain white screen to compensate the loss of light.

3D Gunner wrote:

By "normal white screen" I intended to be understood to be a non silver screen. Can be a high gain white screen to compensate the loss of light.

Yes. That said, most high gain screens made today have a brighter center than the rest of the screen. And I've seen very few today that have more than 1.3 gain. They also tend to be small screens, around 100" to 120". Viewing angles of high-gain screens are also narrow.

I suggest you go to the www.avsforum.com and join the forum and browse their screen forum and ask questions there. You will find a lot of people willing to help solve your screen needs. Screens | AVS Forum

They also have 3D forum.

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