Full spectrum converted Canon RP

This camera works great converted to full spectrum.

I haven't been able to shoot in good conditions yet (clouds and such), but got a few as examples. Don't look if you have an aversion to freaky color.

Mine was converted by Kolari Vision.

28-135mm 1.8 760nm IR filter

35mm 1.8 720nm filter

50mm IRChrome filter

dmanthree wrote:

Have you tried it with a UV pass filter? I'm thinking about a conversion, and would like to do some UV shooting alongside the usual IR stuff.

All the lenses I have are glass, and although perhaps an older adapted lens might work other than as a curiosity it hasn't been on my radar. And the filters aren't cheap. More than the lens I'd probably use by a factor of two.

But I've seen some very interesting macro work done, so perhaps.

Be nice if Kolari et al rented the UV filters. But I don't think so.

That's a very nice set - I especially like the IRChrome filtered image with your selected post processing. I have a full spectrum converted Canon T2i that I originally used for astrophotography but now use for IR. It is fun to shoot with. I have a Korari Vision 590nm filter that is fun to sue, as well as a cheaper Polaroid brand 720 filter. I have found that a lot of the magic is in the post processing - you have some excellent results here. And then of course, even with IR you need a decent subject.

In any case, great set, thanks for posting.

ML

Someone explain what converting to full spectrum means

mikeyL wrote:

That's a very nice set - I especially like the IRChrome filtered image with your selected post processing. I have a full spectrum converted Canon T2i that I originally used for astrophotography but now use for IR. It is fun to shoot with. I have a Korari Vision 590nm filter that is fun to sue, as well as a cheaper Polaroid brand 720 filter. I have found that a lot of the magic is in the post processing - you have some excellent results here. And then of course, even with IR you need a decent subject.

In any case, great set, thanks for posting.

ML

Thanks. I keep looking at Kolari for one of those 590s. Gets more of that nice yellow in from what I've seen.

The cool thing about IRChrome is you can shoot and process pretty normally. No swapping, or WB issues at all. Fortunately it seems none of my Canon lenses have hotspots.

dmanthree wrote:

Morvegil wrote:

Someone explain what converting to full spectrum means

It means that there is no filter of any kind in front of the sensor, so the effect you get depends on the filter you place on the lens.

And to elaborate further, most all modern digital cameras come with UV and IR filters on the front of the sensors (some manufacturers make specialized cameras for astronomers and such without the filters, like Canon does with the Ra). These block UV and IR from reaching the sensor. Remove them, and the sensor now can "see" those wavelengths.

A full spectrum just removes the filters, and in the case of most mirrorless doesn't replace it with anything. Other conversions might add certain filters in place of the original, like passing only 720nm and above. Or sometimes just glass since esp with DSLRs than can affect focus.

The nice thing about full spectrum is you can use lens filters (either in front of the lens or behind it) to filter light; I used three different ones in the examples above. Or you can add a UV/IR cut filter; it cuts the same wavelengths as the original in-body filter, essentially giving you the original camera back.

Severinbass wrote:

Hi

I also have a modified Canon EOS RP, but i cant get the WB right for the IRChrome.

If i choose Daylight as WB the Picture looks like a picture with a unmodified Camera. If i take a custom WB it looks the same.

Do you know what the problem is?

I would love to get a reply.

Thx

Severin Bassin

Are you using WB in-camera? I just shoot raw and then use WB in Lr. What profile are you starting with?

Here's one I shot recently with the Kolari IRChrome filter. 35mm lens. Profile is Adobe Color. I set WB with a gray card; turned out to set to 19k in Lr, with a -3 hue. Then I just hit "auto" to adjust the rest with a tad of texture. Normally I'd turn down the orange, but just wanted to show the effect. With this foliage I usually get a tilt to the orange vs red.

The "Daylight" setting in Lr would have given 5.5k and +10 hue, and a more muted shot. It's the second one.

So not sure why yours aren't working out.

Custom WB

Daylight WB