Using your MC-20 Teleconverter with your OLY 60mm Macro lens

I have posted a few different posts specifying how I do this (especially with the MC-14), but I wanted a single post about the process that makes it possible for the MC-20.

First off, the way this is made possible is through the PIXCO extension tubes that are found here:

https://www.roxsen.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1779

they can be found at other locations, but this brand PIXCO specifically are the ones you must have to make this work.  It can be done in 3 different ways:

1.  First way, and easiest is to buy one set of the tubes, and hook up the 10mm first to the protruding lens side of the MC-20, then the 16mm that will connect to the Olympus 60mm macro lens.  It will look like this (ignore the brand name of the 10mm one - I could not find my Pixco brand 10mm tube)

This setup works fine, but there is a tad more space between the teleconverter lens and the 60mm macro lens than I would prefer.  So I initially did the following in #2:

2.  Buy two sets of the Pixco extension tubes since they are inexpensive, and use two 10mm extension tubes to attach to the MC-20 teleconverter.  Do not use the 16mm one.  You will reduce the void space between the teleconverter lens and the 60mm macro lens, providing more light and sharper images.

3.  Now, you are wondering why not use the 16mm extension tube with the teleconverter on it's own.....the reason is that the 16mm extension tube has an opening that is too narrow to fit all the way down the shaft of the teleconvter lens.  This is why this option can be best....use a sharp knife and just scrape out some of the plastic around the inside of the 16mm extension tube, which will allow the teleconverter to fit inside it all on it's own, providing the tightest fit for your teleconverter to be as close as possible to your 60 macro lens rear glass,

The electronic connections work perfectly, allowing autofocus to work - but more importantly, the focus bracketing setup to work.

With the third setup, you are right at 3x magnification when the camera is set at 1:1.  Your distance to subject at 1:1 is at around 77 millimeters - very sufficient for lighting a subject.

Here's where things get interesting...and the fun begins....

Now that you have a setup that focus bracketing with work with your Olympus camera, teleconverter and macro lens, you can add Raynox lenses to your heart's content.

First, the Raynox 250 - possibly the most famous of the Raynox lenses and probably the sharpest and forgiving.

Using this lens at 1:1 gives you 4.3x magnification, VERY CLOSE to the famous Canon MPE-65...but with something special - the ability to focus bracket and even stack in-camera if the subject doesn't have too much depth. The preference is always to stack outside the camera because the more images you can stack, the better. I always have my focus bracketing set at 1/10 or at most 2/10 when using the teleconverters.

Here's the setup with the Raynox 250

Thank you for stating everything so clearly, I'm now encouraged to follow your instructions & make further experiments into the fascinating  world of macro photography.

using the Raynox 202 with the setup instead of the Raynox 250 gives you a field of view of just under 2.5mm width.  This is 7x magnification, with the ability to focus bracket in the field - no need for a rail system (just good lighting!)  Only 12-14mm or so between you and the subject, but incredible ability to do something no other system is capable of.

Now, with the Raynox 505 - the field of view is down to an estimated 1.9mm left to right - just under 10x magnification!!!  With the ability to focus bracket....this has changed my life in terms of time, trouble, balance, everything....

BTW you know I love your macros. Please keep them coming. It's a real inspiration

Is there any point in using other lenses, NOT for macro but in order to fit the TC to a lens that 'does not allow it normally'. For example the Oly 75-300 in order to get 600mm

Probably a really stupid question...

Since I went to using the MC-20 instead of the MC-14, my macro photography has taken off.  Here are examples for you to ask questions about.  Most were taken with Raynox 505 or 202, but some used the 250.

scales on a mosquito

dew drops on a spider web with spider in background

leaf cutter bee (this was with 250)

dew drops on a spider web - this was with the 202

more dew drops - I have been big into these of late....

live jumping spider - 202

scales on the shoulder of a mosquito - less than 1mm field of view

the spot on a Luna Moth Wing - this was a high resolution mode stack

the shed head casing of a jumping spider (they shed skin as they grow)

Cuckoo Wasp head - 202

stinger from a bee - you can see inside it.

jumping spider eating a fly - this one was at a higher ISO I believe of 320 - I usually use 200 or less.

mouth of a tick

foot/claw of a Luna Moth

red ant

garnet sand grain balanced on another grain of sand, the garnet is under 1/4mm in width!

garnet sand grain balanced on another grain of sand.  This garnet is about 1/2mm in width

small garnet shown here is less than 1/10th of a millimeter in width!

Foot of a robber fly

scales from a Luna Moth wing

another garnet balanced on a grain of sand

softmarmotte wrote:

BTW you know I love your macros. Please keep them coming. It's a real inspiration

Is there any point in using other lenses, NOT for macro but in order to fit the TC to a lens that 'does not allow it normally'. For example the Oly 75-300 in order to get 600mm

Probably a really stupid question...

I do not know.  I do not know if they will work in any other situation except for what they are supposed to be used for, and for my specific macro setup

Such fabulous breath taking photos. Beautiful.

Thank you very much! Outstand work, and an extremely well organised explanation!

Very useful, and very inspiring!

As soon as you fit extension tubes to a 300 mm lens (or any other, for that matter), it changes the lens. It becomes, so to speak, a tele-macro, and does not focus to infinity any longer. So, it does work, but not as a usual tele lens.

I have used extension tubes with the PL 100-400, with good results (no TC). Useful to photograph butterflies, dragon-flies, and other large insects at around 2 m. I also used that same combination to photograph birds nests without disturbance, at 4 or 5 m (I forgot the distance). But the usable range is limited, does not focus outside that range.

Paul Auclair wrote:

i always click on your posts.

Thanks Paul!  I do hope I am helping folks learn the system and its strengths!

BinY88 wrote:

The photos are stunning!

Thank you so much!  It's truly a joy to share them with others and help them in figuring it all out!

I recently posted about putting together a lens support for a GH4, Speedbooster, and Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 lens using rails and lens support accessories from Hejnar Photo.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4518140

A similar configuration will work for this macro setup.

I would recommend the 4" rail rather than the 5" rail.

I use an Arca base plate on all of my cameras; without that you would need a riser of some sort.

If the Arca base plate has a threaded mount in line with the lens, then the rail can be mounted directly to the bottom of the plate and the lens support wheels and rail in the article will work.  With an Arca clamp mounted to the rail, because the 60mm macro is so thin, a longer lens support rail is needed.  I recommed that approach, because the extra height from the clamp gives clearance for mounting the lens support wheels facing towards or away from the camera.  This gives extra flexibility for using different combinations of TC and extension tube.

The 3/32" pad I mention is not required for this use.

Seasider wrote:

Thanks for sharing your setup.

What stacking software do you use? If Helicon, do you use A, B or C for the sand garnets.

Helicon Method C