Sharing my Canon DPP 4 workflow

To really get the Canon colours I use DPP. It's slow, but the results make it worth it.

One thing you could try is pre-baking the DLO data into the files in camera. I always find that step quite slow on the computer. It will slow your camera down potentially, but I haven't noticed any appreciable negative effects.

The R5 now includes two DLO settings: Standard and High

Thank you.
DPP is very good and often give the best look.
I worked in DPP the same way as you.

I finally switched to DXO Photolab 1 when that came out due to lacking features in DPP that sometimes was needed.
In first hand local constrast features as Microcontrast (Clarity) and Clearview (Dehaze) and secondly local adjustment.
Since the version of DPP4 that I was using Canon has added some very basic local adjustment, a clarity slider and face recognition with portrait light auto adjust that seemed pretty neat in a youtube video (perhaps something more?).
I recently downloaded the latest version to try the clarity slider to see if it more or less do the same as Microcontrast but the sad thing was that for my cameras this feature was not supported. I do not understand why since it's just a software feature and really has nothing to do with camera.
Would have been interested to know if all R cameras support the clarity and the face auto light adjust?

Canon DLO is better than this feature in DXO. I tested the same photos adding 2x to 70-200 mk2 and Canon did a significantly better job than DXO in this situation.

I tested both LR and DXO and actually both was a dissapointment in color compared to DPP but I found DXO to be accetable.
It would be very interesting to know what you thought about this since you used DXO.

There is one valuable trick in DPP4.

In "Sharpness" section there are three sliders. The lower oine is "Threshold".

I always lower it by 1-2 steps. It brings:

1)  Better reproduction of super fine details (but beware women's portrets! :)) - an expected result.

2) Not expected result is delicate improvement of a contrast of the whole image. This one I like most and use all the time.

Thanks for sharing this. I’ll post my workflow alongside (everybody’s is different!).

.

Canon DPP - RAW Workflow:

First off I set my cameras to the "Standard" picture style. It's nice and neutral. I turn all in-camera sharpening and noise reduction OFF (I leave Long-exposure NR on since it uses dark-frame subtraction). DPP then uses these settings as a starting point (this trait can be changed in the menu if desired).

I copy/paste the camera’s images into a new folder on my "Photos" drive (folders are sorted by camera and year). I name the new folder with the date, lens, and shoot/subject material.

To vet your images, open DPP and browse to the new folder. Hit "Select All" and click "Quick Check."

Use the right and left arrow keys to scroll through the images, and the " x " key to mark any "Rejects." The number keys can assign stars to any of the images, and double-clicking can magnify in/out. This is an extremely efficient way to vet photos!

Note: if you use any of the tools in the right-hand "Quick Check" pane (like "Rotate," "Clear" etc), you'll have to click inside the image window anywhere in order to get the keyboard to work again. Allowing you to use the arrows etc again.

When done marking all of the images, exit the "Quick Check" screen. Select all of the "Rejects" by pressing CTRL-Shift-X (or drill into the "Edit Menu"), and then delete them.

Now select the images you'd like to edit. For instance I'll select all of the "3-star or higher" rated images (CTRL-Shift-3, or use the "Edit Menu").

Click "Edit Image."

I keep the tool pane on the right side. I adjust everything to taste (by eye). I try to get everything as close as possible to how I want it to ultimately look. Note: The copy/paste "Recipe" feature is very fast and powerful.

If the lens (or shot) requires it, I'll use the "Image Lens Correction" tool. Works well to correct distortions, CA, etc.

Note: I don't apply any Unsharp Mask or noise reduction in DPP (I save those processes for later).

Now exit the image editor.

Now select all of the images you want to convert (several ways of doing so).

Press CTRL-B (or use the "File Menu") to invoke the Batch Process converter.

Browse/create a folder to drop these in.

I save as TIFF 16bit, and embed the ICC profile (color space). Hit "Execute" and go get some coffee.

Now if any of the images need noise reduction, I'll run them through my stand-alone copy of Noise Ninja (here I like to selectively reduce noise in differing amounts, and in certain areas). If an image needs some very precise selection though, I'll save NR for Photoshop instead and use its very powerful selection tools.

When done with noise reduction, I open images in Photoshop and finish up any additional editing (still no sharpening!). Then I save this image as a "master" PSD (never to be edited again).

When I want to output an image I'll open up the master PSD and resize (to whatever scale is required). As a final editing step I'll use the Unsharp Mask filter now. Why save sharpening until the very end? Because the amount of sharpening necessary is dependent on the output requirements.

I save this as another different (renamed) PSD.

If emailing, posting to the Web, or displaying on a screen, I'll convert to an 8-bit sRGB and save as a JPEG.

I know this whole process sounds a bit complicated, but once you do it a few times it becomes very quick and easy (esp the DPP part ).

Here's a link to some of Canon's tutorials...

Canon DPP 4 Tutorials

Have fun!

R2

Some further nitpicks I've learned over the years with DPP4...

Sort by ISO, from your keepers

Batch reduce the noise reduction on luminance and chroma to zero for ISO 100 images, you'll pickup some fine detail that gets washed out. If you're shooting DR+, set it to zero for ISO 200 images too.

Apply DLO based off ISO values if you don't have DLO turned on in camera (with the lens profile loaded I might add, max of I think it's 3-5 lenses on the M cameras) to "stamp" the metadata with appropriate optimal DLO value (without oversharpening) at the time of shot:

ISO 100 - 35.3

ISO 125 - 32.8

ISO 160 - 30.4

ISO 200 - 28.1

ISO 250 - 25.0

ISO 320 - 23.3

ISO 400 - 21.0

ISO 500 - 18.6

ISO 640 - 16.2

ISO 800 - 12.2

ISO 800+ - 12.2 (varies, can go lower)

Apply ALO changes, after, gamma changes, they "fight" for lack of better words.

Don't forget about Canon's "extra" picture profiles like Autumn Hues, etc. They're handy every now and again, even though I don't frequently use them if only because I forget they're there myself

MannyV wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

Thanks for sharing this. I’ll post my workflow alongside (everybody’s is different!).

.

Canon DPP - RAW Workflow:

I copy/paste the camera’s images into a new folder on my "Photos" drive (folders are sorted by camera and year). I name the new folder with the date, lens, and shoot/subject material.

Use the right and left arrow keys to scroll through the images, and the " x " key to mark any "Rejects." The number keys can assign stars to any of the images, and double-clicking can magnify in/out. This is an extremely efficient way to vet photos!

Note: if you use any of the tools in the right-hand "Quick Check" pane (like "Rotate," "Clear" etc), you'll have to click inside the image window anywhere in order to get the keyboard to work again. Allowing you to use the arrows etc again.

When done marking all of the images, exit the "Quick Check" screen. Select all of the "Rejects" by pressing CTRL-Shift-X (or drill into the "Edit Menu"), and then delete them.

R2

Thank you R2. I tried your workflow and in some steps, it helped me speed up a bit. I took some of these inputs and updated my workflow. Below are the updated steps.

1. In permanent storage create event folder and in this subfolders RAW and JPG

2. Copy card raw files to RAW subfolder created in step 1

3. Select all -> Click Quick View -> Flag 5 star for keeper / Flag Rejected for non-keeper. Click the next icon i.e the icon -> in DPP4 to navigate to next files for rating them till all images are flagged as 5 star or rejected

5. Click back

6. Select Rejected only

7. Delete rejected

8. Edit images (only 5 star images will be left). In edit mode Lens optimizer -> Basic edit -> Image Detail -> Image Colours

9. Batch export to JPGs selecting the output destination to the JPG folder created in step 1

10. Save RAW edits. DPP 4 will prompt to save RAW's when you navigate away from folder or exit DPP4)

Just a note.  You can eliminate that "save" prompt in Preferences if you want.  (saves another click!  ).

R2

R2D2 wrote:

MannyV wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

Thanks for sharing this. I’ll post my workflow alongside (everybody’s is different!).

.

Canon DPP - RAW Workflow:

I copy/paste the camera’s images into a new folder on my "Photos" drive (folders are sorted by camera and year). I name the new folder with the date, lens, and shoot/subject material.

Use the right and left arrow keys to scroll through the images, and the " x " key to mark any "Rejects." The number keys can assign stars to any of the images, and double-clicking can magnify in/out. This is an extremely efficient way to vet photos!

Note: if you use any of the tools in the right-hand "Quick Check" pane (like "Rotate," "Clear" etc), you'll have to click inside the image window anywhere in order to get the keyboard to work again. Allowing you to use the arrows etc again.

When done marking all of the images, exit the "Quick Check" screen. Select all of the "Rejects" by pressing CTRL-Shift-X (or drill into the "Edit Menu"), and then delete them.

R2

Thank you R2. I tried your workflow and in some steps, it helped me speed up a bit. I took some of these inputs and updated my workflow. Below are the updated steps.

1. In permanent storage create event folder and in this subfolders RAW and JPG

2. Copy card raw files to RAW subfolder created in step 1

3. Select all -> Click Quick View -> Flag 5 star for keeper / Flag Rejected for non-keeper. Click the next icon i.e the icon -> in DPP4 to navigate to next files for rating them till all images are flagged as 5 star or rejected

5. Click back

6. Select Rejected only

7. Delete rejected

8. Edit images (only 5 star images will be left). In edit mode Lens optimizer -> Basic edit -> Image Detail -> Image Colours

9. Batch export to JPGs selecting the output destination to the JPG folder created in step 1

10. Save RAW edits. DPP 4 will prompt to save RAW's when you navigate away from folder or exit DPP4)

Just a note. You can eliminate that "save" prompt in Preferences if you want. (saves another click! ).

R2

70%+ I'm jpg with my RP that has the best internal processing I've had with color profiles and DLO and Noise redux SOOC.

if I have to use RAW, I run through DPP to get the color profile and DLO.  Rest I do in standalone LR which has best shadow, highlight recovery

DPR just did a comparison that made some sense.

MAC wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

70%+ I'm jpg with my RP that has the best internal processing I've had with color profiles and DLO and Noise redux SOOC.

if I have to use RAW, I run through DPP to get the color profile and DLO. Rest I do in standalone LR which has best shadow, highlight recovery

Point taken. I could probably get by with jpgs for my "everyday" casual shooting nowadays (would definitely save me time!). I may just shoot RAW + jpg for a while.

But for everything else I really push the PP, and need the latitude that RAW provides. In my case, finished images must be suitable for gallery display/sale (or even higher IQ if commissioned).

In fact just yesterday I received a request for threee 4 foot x 6 foot landscape prints, but would really like to shoot them with my R5, if it gets here in time! At least the expected minimum viewing distance will be about 8 feet. That takes some of the (IQ) pressure off.

R2

R2D2 wrote:

MAC wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

70%+ I'm jpg with my RP that has the best internal processing I've had with color profiles and DLO and Noise redux SOOC.

if I have to use RAW, I run through DPP to get the color profile and DLO. Rest I do in standalone LR which has best shadow, highlight recovery

Point taken.

from a 20 year RAW shooter, maybe give it a try with optimal in camera settings.  With the latest cameras, Canon has really improved the SOOC shots with proper in-camera settings applied

I could probably get by with jpgs for my "everyday" casual shooting nowadays (would definitely save me time!).

normally I have at least 1/2 dozen shoots a year.  This year since the virus, only 1.  So everyday is what it is

I may just shoot RAW + jpg for a while.

that is how I shoot nowadays

But for everything else I really push the PP, and need the latitude that RAW provides. In my case, finished images must be suitable for gallery display/sale (or even higher IQ if commissioned).

me too - I use LR standalone after setting the color profile and DLO in DPP.  LR has the best shadow/highlight push/pull as DPR said in article

In fact just yesterday I received a request for threee 4 foot x 6 foot landscape prints, but would really like to shoot them with my R5, if it gets here in time! At least the expected minimum viewing distance will be about 8 feet. That takes some of the (IQ) pressure off.

yes the R5 was built for that.  I've had good results up to 24 x36 using photoshop and taking the size up slowly in increments using my stair interpolation action.  But if I was routinely paid for large prints and landscapes where dynamic range is important, your R5 should be great.  Also for your birds.  But that body and those expensive cards are way out of my range for everyday stuff and I'm ok with what I have at this point.  They haven't built the camera I want yet.  When they put the 33mpxl R sensor into the R6 body  capability and sell for under $2K, I'll be ready to upgrade my RP    An M5II with IBIS could also get my attention

R2

MAC wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

They haven't built the camera I want yet. When they put the 33mpxl R sensor into the R6 body capability and sell for under $2K, I'll be ready to upgrade my RP

I'm sure that one's on its way!  Plus one or two more R bodies in even lower price brackets. 

However I suspect Canon may keep IBIS limited to the R6 (and higher) level for now.

An M5II with IBIS could also get my attention

But in typical Canon fashion, I don't think we'll see IBIS in an M for a while either. 

Eventually IBIS will make its way up and down the line, but methinks it's too juicy a differentiator for Canon to pass up right now. 

R2

R2D2 wrote:

MAC wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

They haven't built the camera I want yet. When they put the 33mpxl R sensor into the R6 body capability and sell for under $2K, I'll be ready to upgrade my RP

I'm sure that one's on its way! Plus one or two more R bodies in even lower price brackets.

However I suspect Canon may keep IBIS limited to the R6 (and higher) level for now.

An M5II with IBIS could also get my attention

But in typical Canon fashion, I don't think we'll see IBIS in an M for a while either.

Eventually IBIS will make its way up and down the line, but methinks it's too juicy a differentiator for Canon to pass up right now.

R2

I think you are probably right.

So I just have to be happy with what I got.

In the old days I had a 28-135.  I had two 15-85's.  And I had a tamy 28-75.

My RP with RF 24-105 F4 L IS with nano focus is so much better than the past, I am a very happy camper with this all-arounder, best 24-105 on the planet.

I am very happy with my RP + EF 100L for macro.

For the planned November receipt of the RF 85 F2 IS, I think it will be the best portrait lens I've ever had and give dual duty to macro -- it has a 13 inch MFD.

So I'm building my system from these three lenses.  Bodies come and go, but these three will be my anchors.

If the RF 50 F1.8 has IS and beats the M 32, then I'm likely over with wanting an M unless they get it together with a long birding lens and a new body for reach -- where crop has reach advantages to put more pixels on the birds.  Anyway, reading the tea leaves, looks like M is slow to continue to develop

I like your gear list !

m100 wrote:

I like your gear list !

thanks,  imo the best ever $3100 spent on photography that does 70 % + of my shots = RF24-105 F4 IS with nano ( $899 best ever 24-105 all-a-rounder)  + 100L ( $650 macro) + RF 85 F2 IS (portrait  - $599)+ RP and adapter (capable FF with eye focus for just $950).  The 3 lenses are forever lenses and everything  else for me in the future is gravy and is built around these 3 lenses!

Thank you for these tips. 

MannyV wrote:

I used LR earlier and then moved to DXO PL when Adobe LR went to subscription model. I do not use the DAM tools much. My requirements are a simple editor to take my RAW files and process them slightly. Recently I tried Canon DPP 4.There was a bit of a learning curve. After the initial learning curve, I am hooked now.

The benefits of using DPP 4 to me are

a. The Picture profile does most of the work

b. The gamma correction auto does most of the work. I do some minor mid-point to make the image brighter / darker depending on what I am trying to convey in the image

c. Noise reduction by default is good.

d. Lens optimizer does most of the work fixing lens corrections

All in all I find images turns out great. So it is becoming my go-to tool now. Below I am sharing my workflow with the goal it may encourage some other users on the fence to give it a try.

At a high level - I make folder (Event name) and within that subfolder RAW and subfolder JPG -> Use Quick View to rate 5 star (keepers) -> Save the 5 star RAW's to final RAW folder -> Browse to final folder -> Edit -> Batch export all to final JPG folder.

Within edit mode I use the Lens Optimizer, basic edits mostly. Lens optimizer is pretty much automatic. In basic edit, I adjust the picture style, auto gamma and slight tweak of mid point if required, and unsharp mask 9-4-4 for strength, fineness, Threshold.

Rarely do I use the details and saturation tabs. And only tried once the dust delete one time. There are a lot more functionality which I haven't used.

If anyone prefer a slightly more detailed step by step or a visual step by step, I have posted this on my website as well. Link to that page: My Canon DPP 4 workflow

PS: I have left out many other features such as dust delete, area fixes, etc etc. I myself am still learning those and honestly do not use these much.

All in all I like the images that are generated using DPP4 and would encourage other Canon users if you haven't tried so, give it a shot.

Manny
Still draft and working towards it - https://www.digitalphoto.work