Any IQ compromise in using electronic shutter?

As long as there's limited movement, I don't see any.

Now movement? Expect the jello effect.

Chris Dodkin wrote:

Main issues would be any camera movement or subject movement will lead to image distortion due to the relatively slow scan rate of the sensor during ES.

You also get banding when shooting under artificial lighting due to the cycle flicker of the light source.

You will also get bokeh degradation due to the plane of focus no longer being defined by the aperture on the lens, most noticeably with things like misshapen bokeh balls.

ES will also not allow flash to be used.

I avoid ES unless I have no other possible alternative.

That’s why I like shooting with EF+MS shutter setting. The best if both worlds without the negatives of ES. Although you can’t use EF with a flash so it automatically sets it MS when you turn flash on.

”Electronic front curtain shutter:

• Avoids camera vibrations.
• Quieter than mechanical shutter.
• No artifacts with motion and under flickering light.“

ArtHeals wrote:

Amazing shot and i will take your advice and continue to use ES

If you had a newer Fuji camera you could use the EF+MS shutter setting.

”Electronic front curtain shutter:

• Avoids camera vibrations.
• Quieter than mechanical shutter.
• No artifacts with motion and under flickering light.“

ikaika777 wrote:

ArtHeals wrote:

Amazing shot and i will take your advice and continue to use ES

If you had a newer Fuji camera you could use the EF+MS shutter setting.

”Electronic front curtain shutter:

• Avoids camera vibrations.
• Quieter than mechanical shutter.
• No artifacts with motion and under flickering light.“

Based on your previous reply i did try ES+MS on my X-T1, it worked perfectly on 56/1.2 wide open in bright sunlight. I just dont like the loud shutter sound otherwise the camera is a gem.

thanks for your detailed response.

ArtHeals wrote:

ikaika777 wrote:

ArtHeals wrote:

Amazing shot and i will take your advice and continue to use ES

If you had a newer Fuji camera you could use the EF+MS shutter setting.

”Electronic front curtain shutter:

• Avoids camera vibrations.
• Quieter than mechanical shutter.
• No artifacts with motion and under flickering light.“

Based on your previous reply i did try ES+MS on my X-T1, it worked perfectly on 56/1.2 wide open in bright sunlight. I just dont like the loud shutter sound otherwise the camera is a gem.

thanks for your detailed response.

But does te X-T1 have EF+MS?

It has MS+ES, that's what I use - (I don't see EF)

Very valuable contribution. As a new user of Fujifilm X-S10 and raw editor (On1 Photo RAW 2023), I have come across the following downside of ES: Out of camera, the raw files look the same, except that I see some bright hallo around bright objects (e.g. a porcelain plate).

Then, if you very strongly edit certain parts of the image, e.g. darken, reduce contrast, add lens blur effect to a masked out area, then you start to see strange shapes like stripes and brighter rectangles.

But these stripes and shapes are only visible in the preview while editing, and disappear when the edit is saved. However, these effects obviously are a big hindrance of your editing work.

Took the same picture with mechanical shutter for control: None of these effects.

After realising this and reading your post, I decided to use ES only if absolutely necessary.

However, II would like to understand this better. Any comments to my above observations?

Many thanks in advance.

No one has mention it, but there is also terrible banding under artificial lighting. And that ruins the pictures completely.

infoschuerfer wrote:

Very valuable contribution. As a new user of Fujifilm X-S10 and raw editor (On1 Photo RAW 2023), I have come across the following downside of ES: Out of camera, the raw files look the same, except that I see some bright hallo around bright objects (e.g. a porcelain plate).

Then, if you very strongly edit certain parts of the image, e.g. darken, reduce contrast, add lens blur effect to a masked out area, then you start to see strange shapes like stripes and brighter rectangles.

But these stripes and shapes are only visible in the preview while editing, and disappear when the edit is saved. However, these effects obviously are a big hindrance of your editing work.

Took the same picture with mechanical shutter for control: None of these effects.

After realising this and reading your post, I decided to use ES only if absolutely necessary.

However, II would like to understand this better. Any comments to my above observations?

Many thanks in advance.

Yeah i have noticed the same with my X-T2 / 20 and to be honest I thought it had to do with sensor readout speed or whatever sensor characteristic. I also thought it would be better with the sensors of later models but since you report the same thing it doesn't look like it.

infoschuerfer wrote:

Very valuable contribution. As a new user of Fujifilm X-S10 and raw editor (On1 Photo RAW 2023), I have come across the following downside of ES: Out of camera, the raw files look the same, except that I see some bright hallo around bright objects (e.g. a porcelain plate).

Then, if you very strongly edit certain parts of the image, e.g. darken, reduce contrast, add lens blur effect to a masked out area, then you start to see strange shapes like stripes and brighter rectangles.

But these stripes and shapes are only visible in the preview while editing, and disappear when the edit is saved. However, these effects obviously are a big hindrance of your editing work.

Took the same picture with mechanical shutter for control: None of these effects.

After realising this and reading your post, I decided to use ES only if absolutely necessary.

However, II would like to understand this better. Any comments to my above observations?

Many thanks in advance.

Aside from the occasional rolling shutter issue and artificial light interaction issues, I don’t see any significant real-world difference between the MS and ES when editing in Lightroom with my X-T2/X-T20. I get a bit more noise with the newer cameras X-T3/X100V when using the ES (due to the faster sensor readout), but no weird artifacts like what you describe. Sounds like a software issue.

I only see a significant differences in bokeh with the X100V’s leaf shutter, which can cause some pretty significant changes in the bokeh rendering beginning at around 1/500” and becoming quite noticeable at speeds beyond 1/1000” or so. No issues with the ES.

Foskito wrote:

No one has mention it, but there is also terrible banding under artificial lighting. And that ruins the pictures completely.

And this only relates to artificial light (mostly interior for all I know). Here in the US, use a shutter speed of 1/60th. In Europe, use a shutter speed of 1/50th of a second…..when using ES. That should help out.