Impulses wrote:
You posted a bunch of questions about solar power, USB power, etc. throughout the thread, so rather than answering them under each comment imma just dump it all in this post.
As to the original question, I seldom used more than 2 a day with my E-M5 II (YMMV) but still had 1 OEM, 1 Watson (B&H house brand, a little more reliable than other 3rd parties) and a couple third party extras which I rarely touched. For my E-M5 III (which uses the same battery as your E-M10 or E-PL) I just bought a second OEM battery for now, might add a third later but that body can charge directly over USB so it's not a pressing need.
On USB charging: Even if you have a camera that can't charge directly over USB (don't think you do), you can still resort to the next best thing and get a slim USB charger for your batteries that you can then hook up directly to any car charger, power bank, etc. Basically just get something like this, loads of uses for it (I have that very one and it's working fine, that bad review wasn't there when I bought it, loads of similar ones on Amazon tho):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F47XYLT/
On solar power: You never want to go straight from a solar source to the camera, the voltage just won't be anywhere near reliable enough. What pretty much everybody does is use a solar panel to charge a larger external power bank (or your camera batteries using a charger like the one I linked before). I've had good luck with a BigBlue 28W model that has both USB Type A and Type C ports but I'm not seeing it on Amazon right now, similar to this one tho (again, lots of others to choose from):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXWCPLC/
On external power w/a 3rd party coupler (and a USB source): I'd just point you to the thread below which covers similar solutions for the E-M5 III:
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63686722
I'm still testing the Tether Tools Case Relay thing I bought along with the third party BLS-5/50 coupler I bought from:
http://helge-suess.com/hardware-en/battery-adapter-bln-1-and-bls-5/
https://www.tethertools.com/case-relay-camera-power-system/
More recently I've found a couple other cheaper non-DIY solutions for voltage stepping in order to use a USB source, tho they aren't meant to be used strictly with Oly bodies and the lack of a built in battery means you can't hot swap your USB power bank or charger (then again, the Case Relay seems to have iffy long term reviews regarding it's main advantage, that battery). I bought this to first examine how well it works with my Pana body and then maybe see if it would work with my Oly too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HXNV69/
You wouldn't need any special power banks for any of these solutions (be it the USB charger, solar, or direct external power), since none of them take advantage of USB-C or USB Power Delivery as the E-M1 III does:
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63733305
That standard is the future tho, it greatly simplifies things in the long run, scales up for all kinds of devices, and you may already have a phone (or tablet or laptop) that takes advantage of it so if you're buying a new power bank it makes sense to get one with both standard USB Type A 5V/2A out as well as USB Type C with PD.
Hope that helps, happy to answer any other questions...
Edit: Oh yeah, best tip for battery was savings is just getting in the habit of powering off the camera when idle and/or using power saving modes. Mirrorless battery life is best thought of in terms of uptime rather than shot count as dictated by CIPA's outdated and uneven testing scheme (which is more relevant for DSLRs and is heavily biased against any camera with a built in flash, unless you happen to use that flash for half your shots).
The reason for that is because the camera is always consuming power due to the displays and the sensor feed to them, the act of actually taking a shot (or IBIS or just about anything else but for video) takes up a negligible amount of extra power compared to that constant draw. Simply put, you're gonna get close to the same uptime out of your battery regardless of whether you take 200 shots or 2,000 (and that's not an exaggeration).
The video specs/uptime numbers usually give you close to a worst case scenario for how long each battery will last in use (usually a couples hours if you leave the camera powered on the entire time).
Thanks this was very useful! Sounds like if I do a lot of timelapse and keep the camera on for an hour or two per day I'll be using up a lot of power! I was hoping that sleep mode in between timelapse shots would save some energy but I guess not.