Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?

Started 7 months ago | Discussions
CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?
1

Hi, like the topic title suggests, anyone?

How's like it's performance? Is it worth? Or better off with the 90mm?

Fujifilm X-T1
If you believe there are incorrect tags, please send us this post using our feedback form.
Craig268
Craig268 Senior Member • Posts: 1,366
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?
1

I do and it's absolutely fine for my needs.

However, it's reported that AF is faster with the newer X bodies.  Also the newer X bodies have better tracking and face detection.

 Craig268's gear list:Craig268's gear list
Fujifilm X-T1 Fujifilm X-H1 Fujifilm X-T4 Rokinon 7.5mm F3.5 UMC Fisheye CS Fujifilm XC 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OIS +10 more
AshleyMC Contributing Member • Posts: 806
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?
1

I do, for all sorts of photography, not just landscapes.

I always enjoy the combo.

The 90mm is something else, which I prefer for portraitures in certain use-cases. However, if I had to keep only one if the two, I would keep the 56mm.

(Both of them focus much faster on the X-T3, as one can expect.)

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?
1

AshleyMC wrote:

I do, for all sorts of photography, not just landscapes.

I always enjoy the combo.

The 90mm is something else, which I prefer for portraitures in certain use-cases. However, if I had to keep only one if the two, I would keep the 56mm.

(Both of them focus much faster on the X-T3, as one can expect.)

I see. I also bought the 90mm to compare. But the inicial goal here is to have a smaller camera (to the 6D) with a 23mm f/2 to grab on the go. I purchased the XT! to try these lenses but I am not willing to spend much more money. I also considered the X2Es but because it isn't weather sealed and less well built I went for the XT1. These can always be returned if not happy with it.

Read that at ISOs above 1600 we can get waxy skin. Is this true?

Jasko014
Jasko014 Contributing Member • Posts: 762
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?
2

I do, there is something special in XT-1 sensor and in combination with 56/1.2 it excels. If I go out with two bodies,  56/1.2 is on X-T1 and 35/2 on X-PRO3.

It focuses a bit louder on XT-1, but when you see the results, you forget about))).

Regards,

Jaka

 Jasko014's gear list:Jasko014's gear list
Sony RX1R Leica M8 Nikon D3 Nikon 1 V1 Nikon Df +21 more
57LowRider Veteran Member • Posts: 4,236
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?
2

Way back when the X-T1 was fairly new and had just got a firmware update with wide/tracking mode added, I went out with the 56 on and got great results with moving traffic (splashing through a small flood, as I recall). Else, keep the focus box tight in single point mode and you're good to go (applies to any body, though).

 57LowRider's gear list:57LowRider's gear list
Fujifilm X-E1 Fujifilm X-T1 Fujifilm X-Pro2 Fujifilm XF 35mm F1.4 R Fujifilm XF 14mm F2.8 R +11 more
LenRivers Senior Member • Posts: 2,401
in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

Both are great lenses. If it matters the 90 mm is a big lens and more challenging to hand hold with no image stabilization. I still think it being a 135 mm equivalent makes it long enough it should have had OIS even if the aperture max was reduced to f 2.8

when the 90 mm is stable it produces fantastic results

depends what you do and if you only want one or the other, I had both in my bag.

The responsiveness is more on the computer driving the lens. The XT-1 in that way was not up to the task when I needed it to react for my very first engagement shoot back in 2015, I had to make a system change at that time based on what I was doing and what I needed my camera to do. I have no hesitation recommending it. Again depends on what one needs or expects the gear to do for them.

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?

57LowRider wrote:

Way back when the X-T1 was fairly new and had just got a firmware update with wide/tracking mode added, I went out with the 56 on and got great results with moving traffic (splashing through a small flood, as I recall). Else, keep the focus box tight in single point mode and you're good to go (applies to any body, though).

So I got the xt1 the 23mm, 56mm and 90mm to try out.

All the tests were done inside the house so a challenging environment.

First impressions are the camera maximum ISO, like really top is 1600.

The face detection is all right when it locks. Doesn't not have big problem locking when close but if the subject is moving the head, imagine if someone is with a baby and the baby in moving on the lap the person that you are trying to shoot will also be moving right, to compensate baby's move, so I found the face detection to be slow to get the focus and track. If the subject is still that's all right.

Another question that I have if someone can answer would appreciate.

The shutter speed dial, the one.on the right hand side of the camera, is supposed to be unlocked? For example, the right hand side dial of the camera that I bought second hand from a store (still have time to return it) it is unlocked, that is I can rotate it without pressing the top button.

Is this supposed to be like that?

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?

One comment.

The imagine quality of the jpge of the camera, at least visualising in the camera screen, looks like soft. The colours are different. Haven't seen this kind of output on any other camera.

It is wired but at same time pleasant but sometimes I have doubts. Some picture look like painting almost.

Do you know what I mean? Do you feel the same?

apples2 New Member • Posts: 7
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2? not me

I constantly see this higher in price then sony a6000 and I am mystified I have read reviews of smearing and other negatives plus the resolution is less why is this camera way more, I think from viewing photos the colors are good but the auto focus and othe things including photo quality in camera decision makes me wonder why people pay so much

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2? not me
3

apples2 wrote:

I constantly see this higher in price then sony a6000 and I am mystified I have read reviews of smearing and other negatives plus the resolution is less why is this camera way more, I think from viewing photos the colors are good but the auto focus and othe things including photo quality in camera decision makes me wonder why people pay so much

Please, can you rephrase your comment? I am afraid I didn't understand your comment.

Thank you.

LenRivers Senior Member • Posts: 2,401
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm
1

CESA wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, normal for these lenses especially I noticed the same in the 90 mm to make like a clunk sound when not attached to the camera.  I forget why but I feel like this has been discussed over the years.

Is the 56 mm new or used?

Trying to remember but the aperture ring should have some click to it.  if it is really smooth that does not seem right, next I would go to a camera store and ask to see their 56 mm to do a side by side.  If that does the same then it is normal.

You could also call Fuji directly and chat with tech support.  I have and they usually have the same camera and lens on there side they can try to duplicate what you are telling them.

I recall the 56 mm as a fantastic lens never to sell if you are sticking with Fuji.  The 90 mm if you nail focus since you dont have OIS you will get killer results.

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, normal for these lenses especially I noticed the same in the 90 mm to make like a clunk sound when not attached to the camera. I forget why but I feel like this has been discussed over the years.

Is the 56 mm new or used?

Trying to remember but the aperture ring should have some click to it. if it is really smooth that does not seem right, next I would go to a camera store and ask to see their 56 mm to do a side by side. If that does the same then it is normal.

You could also call Fuji directly and chat with tech support. I have and they usually have the same camera and lens on there side they can try to duplicate what you are telling them.

I recall the 56 mm as a fantastic lens never to sell if you are sticking with Fuji. The 90 mm if you nail focus since you dont have OIS you will get killer results.

Thank you for your time in answering these questions.

All right, so it seems normal then in regards to the 90mm f2. It is a shame in regards to the ois. It should have. The only why to freeze the shot it using high shutter speed. But like you said, if you focus but due to the shacking you move away from the focusing point it is a pain!

In regards to the 56mm f1.2 bought it used marked as excellent but I doubt excellent is the best mark. Probably good +.

The aperture rings actually got the click to it but it seems softer than, for example, the 23mm f,2. Do you have a recoletion of both and how they compare?

Plus, for example, if you are in a certain aperture and you try to rotate in each direction the ring but without leaving that aperture you see that there is slight looseness. Is this normal? Can you understand what I mean?

In regards to the image quality of the X-T1? Can you comment on that? Does it compare to the X-T2? Or X-T3? I found it to be almost like paint.

LenRivers Senior Member • Posts: 2,401
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, normal for these lenses especially I noticed the same in the 90 mm to make like a clunk sound when not attached to the camera. I forget why but I feel like this has been discussed over the years.

Is the 56 mm new or used?

Trying to remember but the aperture ring should have some click to it. if it is really smooth that does not seem right, next I would go to a camera store and ask to see their 56 mm to do a side by side. If that does the same then it is normal.

You could also call Fuji directly and chat with tech support. I have and they usually have the same camera and lens on there side they can try to duplicate what you are telling them.

I recall the 56 mm as a fantastic lens never to sell if you are sticking with Fuji. The 90 mm if you nail focus since you dont have OIS you will get killer results.

Thank you for your time in answering these questions.

All right, so it seems normal then in regards to the 90mm f2. It is a shame in regards to the ois. It should have. The only why to freeze the shot it using high shutter speed. But like you said, if you focus but due to the shacking you move away from the focusing point it is a pain!

In regards to the 56mm f1.2 bought it used marked as excellent but I doubt excellent is the best mark. Probably good +.

The aperture rings actually got the click to it but it seems softer than, for example, the 23mm f,2. Do you have a recoletion of both and how they compare?

Sorry I dont been a bit and I would say the aperture click always gave me feedback.  If I recall the 90 mm does not have aperture numbers or maybe that was the 55-200. (maybe?)

Plus, for example, if you are in a certain aperture and you try to rotate in each direction the ring but without leaving that aperture you see that there is slight looseness. Is this normal? Can you understand what I mean?

Do you mean the aperture click stop is not a solid feeling like you have it engaged? If so I think this is something for peace of mind if you have a local camera store to do a in person side by side.  Not sure if what you are experiencing is a issue or it is not, just not certain,

In regards to the image quality of the X-T1? Can you comment on that? Does it compare to the X-T2? Or X-T3? I found it to be almost like paint.

When I shot Fuji I went as far as the XT-1.  I shot the XE-1, XH-1, X100 S and F.

the XT-1 was a big improvement from the XE-1 I think more of the upgrade vs the XE-2 line etc.   Fuji was doing alot of firmware updates as well.  fairly frequent.

*******

The cameras are all fine and really all the Fuji lenses are pretty darn good. cant really go wrong.  As an aside I played with the 18-135 zoom and it was good as well.

So far as image quality this is what I remember how I set up my camera. Not in any order.

If I recall Dynamic Range is tied to ISO.  Meaning Auto DR can force the camera to a higher ISO (something like that) and a bit of a fake looking as you describe looks like paint.

SO

Manually set dynamic range to 100 the lowest and leave it

Manually set ISO all the time,

Manually set your focus point / dont let the camera choose what it thinks you want to focus on

I would test this with your Film mode set to standard.  I think Provia it is.  Shooting in RAW is always a good thing to do.  I use Iridient Developer to process the RAW's

I also suggest you buy the Rocky Nook guide paper back or Ebook for your camera.  They were really helpful.. I think Alexander white also has something on Amazon and maybe there is another author as well, but very helpful guides to really explain much better.

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, normal for these lenses especially I noticed the same in the 90 mm to make like a clunk sound when not attached to the camera. I forget why but I feel like this has been discussed over the years.

Is the 56 mm new or used?

Trying to remember but the aperture ring should have some click to it. if it is really smooth that does not seem right, next I would go to a camera store and ask to see their 56 mm to do a side by side. If that does the same then it is normal.

You could also call Fuji directly and chat with tech support. I have and they usually have the same camera and lens on there side they can try to duplicate what you are telling them.

I recall the 56 mm as a fantastic lens never to sell if you are sticking with Fuji. The 90 mm if you nail focus since you dont have OIS you will get killer results.

Thank you for your time in answering these questions.

All right, so it seems normal then in regards to the 90mm f2. It is a shame in regards to the ois. It should have. The only why to freeze the shot it using high shutter speed. But like you said, if you focus but due to the shacking you move away from the focusing point it is a pain!

In regards to the 56mm f1.2 bought it used marked as excellent but I doubt excellent is the best mark. Probably good +.

The aperture rings actually got the click to it but it seems softer than, for example, the 23mm f,2. Do you have a recoletion of both and how they compare?

Sorry I dont been a bit and I would say the aperture click always gave me feedback. If I recall the 90 mm does not have aperture numbers or maybe that was the 55-200. (maybe?)

Plus, for example, if you are in a certain aperture and you try to rotate in each direction the ring but without leaving that aperture you see that there is slight looseness. Is this normal? Can you understand what I mean?

Do you mean the aperture click stop is not a solid feeling like you have it engaged? If so I think this is something for peace of mind if you have a local camera store to do a in person side by side. Not sure if what you are experiencing is a issue or it is not, just not certain,

In regards to the image quality of the X-T1? Can you comment on that? Does it compare to the X-T2? Or X-T3? I found it to be almost like paint.

When I shot Fuji I went as far as the XT-1. I shot the XE-1, XH-1, X100 S and F.

the XT-1 was a big improvement from the XE-1 I think more of the upgrade vs the XE-2 line etc. Fuji was doing alot of firmware updates as well. fairly frequent.

*******

The cameras are all fine and really all the Fuji lenses are pretty darn good. cant really go wrong. As an aside I played with the 18-135 zoom and it was good as well.

So far as image quality this is what I remember how I set up my camera. Not in any order.

If I recall Dynamic Range is tied to ISO. Meaning Auto DR can force the camera to a higher ISO (something like that) and a bit of a fake looking as you describe looks like paint.

SO

Manually set dynamic range to 100 the lowest and leave it

Manually set ISO all the time,

Manually set your focus point / dont let the camera choose what it thinks you want to focus on

I would test this with your Film mode set to standard. I think Provia it is. Shooting in RAW is always a good thing to do. I use Iridient Developer to process the RAW's

I also suggest you buy the Rocky Nook guide paper back or Ebook for your camera. They were really helpful.. I think Alexander white also has something on Amazon and maybe there is another author as well, but very helpful guides to really explain much better.

Thanks so much for your inputs.

Regarding the dynamic range leaving it to 100% what does this option do?

What's the different between the different options? Cheers

LenRivers Senior Member • Posts: 2,401
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, normal for these lenses especially I noticed the same in the 90 mm to make like a clunk sound when not attached to the camera. I forget why but I feel like this has been discussed over the years.

Is the 56 mm new or used?

Trying to remember but the aperture ring should have some click to it. if it is really smooth that does not seem right, next I would go to a camera store and ask to see their 56 mm to do a side by side. If that does the same then it is normal.

You could also call Fuji directly and chat with tech support. I have and they usually have the same camera and lens on there side they can try to duplicate what you are telling them.

I recall the 56 mm as a fantastic lens never to sell if you are sticking with Fuji. The 90 mm if you nail focus since you dont have OIS you will get killer results.

Thank you for your time in answering these questions.

All right, so it seems normal then in regards to the 90mm f2. It is a shame in regards to the ois. It should have. The only why to freeze the shot it using high shutter speed. But like you said, if you focus but due to the shacking you move away from the focusing point it is a pain!

In regards to the 56mm f1.2 bought it used marked as excellent but I doubt excellent is the best mark. Probably good +.

The aperture rings actually got the click to it but it seems softer than, for example, the 23mm f,2. Do you have a recoletion of both and how they compare?

Sorry I dont been a bit and I would say the aperture click always gave me feedback. If I recall the 90 mm does not have aperture numbers or maybe that was the 55-200. (maybe?)

Plus, for example, if you are in a certain aperture and you try to rotate in each direction the ring but without leaving that aperture you see that there is slight looseness. Is this normal? Can you understand what I mean?

Do you mean the aperture click stop is not a solid feeling like you have it engaged? If so I think this is something for peace of mind if you have a local camera store to do a in person side by side. Not sure if what you are experiencing is a issue or it is not, just not certain,

In regards to the image quality of the X-T1? Can you comment on that? Does it compare to the X-T2? Or X-T3? I found it to be almost like paint.

When I shot Fuji I went as far as the XT-1. I shot the XE-1, XH-1, X100 S and F.

the XT-1 was a big improvement from the XE-1 I think more of the upgrade vs the XE-2 line etc. Fuji was doing alot of firmware updates as well. fairly frequent.

*******

The cameras are all fine and really all the Fuji lenses are pretty darn good. cant really go wrong. As an aside I played with the 18-135 zoom and it was good as well.

So far as image quality this is what I remember how I set up my camera. Not in any order.

If I recall Dynamic Range is tied to ISO. Meaning Auto DR can force the camera to a higher ISO (something like that) and a bit of a fake looking as you describe looks like paint.

SO

Manually set dynamic range to 100 the lowest and leave it

Manually set ISO all the time,

Manually set your focus point / dont let the camera choose what it thinks you want to focus on

I would test this with your Film mode set to standard. I think Provia it is. Shooting in RAW is always a good thing to do. I use Iridient Developer to process the RAW's

I also suggest you buy the Rocky Nook guide paper back or Ebook for your camera. They were really helpful.. I think Alexander white also has something on Amazon and maybe there is another author as well, but very helpful guides to really explain much better.

Thanks so much for your inputs.

Regarding the dynamic range leaving it to 100% what does this option do?

What's the different between the different options? Cheers

The DR adds to the highlights but if your ISO needs to be over a certain range and I forget the breakdown but one will make DR 200 and I think over 800 ISO DR is 400

IF you are shooting action in bright light for example and need ISO 800 you can set DR to 100 but not if you are using Auto ISO and Auto DR.  As I recall DR over 100 gave that painty look you are talking about, so that is the solution.

Thats what is was when I was there. Look for the guide by Rico something or another at Rocky Nook.com  It is worth the $20 or $40 whatever it is.

OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 367
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, normal for these lenses especially I noticed the same in the 90 mm to make like a clunk sound when not attached to the camera. I forget why but I feel like this has been discussed over the years.

Is the 56 mm new or used?

Trying to remember but the aperture ring should have some click to it. if it is really smooth that does not seem right, next I would go to a camera store and ask to see their 56 mm to do a side by side. If that does the same then it is normal.

You could also call Fuji directly and chat with tech support. I have and they usually have the same camera and lens on there side they can try to duplicate what you are telling them.

I recall the 56 mm as a fantastic lens never to sell if you are sticking with Fuji. The 90 mm if you nail focus since you dont have OIS you will get killer results.

Thank you for your time in answering these questions.

All right, so it seems normal then in regards to the 90mm f2. It is a shame in regards to the ois. It should have. The only why to freeze the shot it using high shutter speed. But like you said, if you focus but due to the shacking you move away from the focusing point it is a pain!

In regards to the 56mm f1.2 bought it used marked as excellent but I doubt excellent is the best mark. Probably good +.

The aperture rings actually got the click to it but it seems softer than, for example, the 23mm f,2. Do you have a recoletion of both and how they compare?

Sorry I dont been a bit and I would say the aperture click always gave me feedback. If I recall the 90 mm does not have aperture numbers or maybe that was the 55-200. (maybe?)

Plus, for example, if you are in a certain aperture and you try to rotate in each direction the ring but without leaving that aperture you see that there is slight looseness. Is this normal? Can you understand what I mean?

Do you mean the aperture click stop is not a solid feeling like you have it engaged? If so I think this is something for peace of mind if you have a local camera store to do a in person side by side. Not sure if what you are experiencing is a issue or it is not, just not certain,

In regards to the image quality of the X-T1? Can you comment on that? Does it compare to the X-T2? Or X-T3? I found it to be almost like paint.

When I shot Fuji I went as far as the XT-1. I shot the XE-1, XH-1, X100 S and F.

the XT-1 was a big improvement from the XE-1 I think more of the upgrade vs the XE-2 line etc. Fuji was doing alot of firmware updates as well. fairly frequent.

*******

The cameras are all fine and really all the Fuji lenses are pretty darn good. cant really go wrong. As an aside I played with the 18-135 zoom and it was good as well.

So far as image quality this is what I remember how I set up my camera. Not in any order.

If I recall Dynamic Range is tied to ISO. Meaning Auto DR can force the camera to a higher ISO (something like that) and a bit of a fake looking as you describe looks like paint.

SO

Manually set dynamic range to 100 the lowest and leave it

Manually set ISO all the time,

Manually set your focus point / dont let the camera choose what it thinks you want to focus on

I would test this with your Film mode set to standard. I think Provia it is. Shooting in RAW is always a good thing to do. I use Iridient Developer to process the RAW's

I also suggest you buy the Rocky Nook guide paper back or Ebook for your camera. They were really helpful.. I think Alexander white also has something on Amazon and maybe there is another author as well, but very helpful guides to really explain much better.

Thanks so much for your inputs.

Regarding the dynamic range leaving it to 100% what does this option do?

What's the different between the different options? Cheers

The DR adds to the highlights but if your ISO needs to be over a certain range and I forget the breakdown but one will make DR 200 and I think over 800 ISO DR is 400

IF you are shooting action in bright light for example and need ISO 800 you can set DR to 100 but not if you are using Auto ISO and Auto DR. As I recall DR over 100 gave that painty look you are talking about, so that is the solution.

Thats what is was when I was there. Look for the guide by Rico something or another at Rocky Nook.com It is worth the $20 or $40 whatever it is.

Yeah, I am using DR100 like fixed. Not auto. ISO also fixed - I select it using the dials. I would say ISO1000 is the maximum I would want to go to. Sometimes ISO1600 is the solution but it starts to look too bad. The images start to look like watercolour like the ones we used at school to paint. Do you know what I mean?

I think till ISO800 it is alright although there is a small hint of this effect.

This is not what I was expecting to be honest.

Will try the camera at smaller ISOs outside in the bright daylight and compare. I guess this will put me off.

So you don't know if, for example, XT3 has got the same effect?

How is there people shooting weddings with this? Where they have to crank up the ISO?

Kenneth Almquist Regular Member • Posts: 111
Re: Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?

CESA wrote:

Another question that I have if someone can answer would appreciate.

The shutter speed dial, the one.on the right hand side of the camera, is supposed to be unlocked? For example, the right hand side dial of the camera that I bought second hand from a store (still have time to return it) it is unlocked, that is I can rotate it without pressing the top button.

Is this supposed to be like that?

If the X-T1 is like the X-H1, the button is a toggle.  Press the button once to lock the dial.  Press the button again to unlock.

That's different from the Nikon D7200, where the dial will only rotate while the button is held down.

 Kenneth Almquist's gear list:Kenneth Almquist's gear list
Nikon D7200 Fujifilm X-H1 Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm F1.8G Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-300mm F3.5-6.3G ED VR Fujifilm 16-55mm F2.8R LM WR +2 more
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum MMy threads