f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Started 3 months ago | Questions
PWPhotography Veteran Member • Posts: 9,183
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Guy Churchward wrote:

splashy wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

The Iso discussion we had 2 times before, question remains do you like the picture of the lion , or prefer to risk underexpose, in this case because of fixed (low) Iso.

What I don't understand, why spend a small fortune on camera and lenses, if you don't know the existence of manual on the 7 IV camera.

this is a forum and I am asking question not for trolling... It was suggested to me to open my lens to F8 on a bee picture and I am experimenting/learning the camera ....I know the existence of the manual setting, I could not adjust both settings in that mode last night. knowing this is where to hunt I will go back and figure out why I couldn’t adjust both settings in manual.

If necessary reset camera to factory default after taking some note on some important setting. Then unless if camera is broken no reason why M mode will not work - move dial to M and rotate front and back wheel to adjust aperture and shutter speed accordingly. Then choose ISO separately either fixed ISO or auto-ISO.

 PWPhotography's gear list:PWPhotography's gear list
Canon EOS-1D Mark III Sony a9 Sony a7R III Sony a7R IV Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye +17 more
JimKasson
JimKasson Forum Pro • Posts: 27,430
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

splashy wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

The Iso discussion we had 2 times before, question remains do you like the picture of the lion , or prefer to risk underexpose, in this case because of fixed (low) Iso.

The pure theorists will tell you under fixed low ISO is not underexposed but under-brightness Remember ISO stop is not part of exposure But in reality we all do by using native ISO in certain applications at least for the right brightness which in practically not that much difference from exposure, at least as labelled in Lr for example, lol.

What I don't understand, why spend a small fortune on camera and lenses, if you don't know the existence of manual on the 7 IV camera.

I personally more care methodology than theory as only final photos matter.

My advice in based not only upon a hard-won understanding of how the camera works, but upon actual usage, and the development of a way of working to take maximum advantage of the camera's capabilities. It's a different way of working than that chosen by PWPhotography. His apparently works for him. Mine works for me.

Really you will use A9 in dim-light sport at ISO 640 and push very dark photos many stops back as otherwise you'd need ISO 3200, 6400, 12800?

I have specifically advised against extreme pushes. You have ignored that advice, and have created a straw man.

It will work but you cannot check photos in EVF/LCD and need to process in software with questionable benefits for just preserving highlight a bit more but may also suffer a bit higher shadow noise.

But, in this context, I think the reference to "pure theorists" is insulting.

Not for you so you don't need to fit yourself in. Pure theorists are no any insulting mean but just for some mainly emphasize in theory not in practice and reality.

As you said we all have different preference and priority. I am very satisfied my 'way' as that delivers the photos in my expectation.

Jim

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 JimKasson's gear list:JimKasson's gear list
Nikon D5 Sony a7 III Nikon Z7 Fujifilm GFX 100 Sony a7R IV +2 more
PWPhotography Veteran Member • Posts: 9,183
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

splashy wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

The Iso discussion we had 2 times before, question remains do you like the picture of the lion , or prefer to risk underexpose, in this case because of fixed (low) Iso.

The pure theorists will tell you under fixed low ISO is not underexposed but under-brightness Remember ISO stop is not part of exposure But in reality we all do by using native ISO in certain applications at least for the right brightness which in practically not that much difference from exposure, at least as labelled in Lr for example, lol.

What I don't understand, why spend a small fortune on camera and lenses, if you don't know the existence of manual on the 7 IV camera.

I personally more care methodology than theory as only final photos matter.

My advice in based not only upon a hard-won understanding of how the camera works, but upon actual usage, and the development of a way of working to take maximum advantage of the camera's capabilities. It's a different way of working than that chosen by PWPhotography. His apparently works for him. Mine works for me.

Really you will use A9 in dim-light sport at ISO 640 and push very dark photos many stops back as otherwise you'd need ISO 3200, 6400, 12800?

I have specifically advised against extreme pushes. You have ignored that advice, and have created a straw man.

OK, so we all agree in those applications, what problem? Not need to overreact My last post was not even posting under your post.

But still can you leverage why auto-ISO is so bad in those applications under your opinion?

It will work but you cannot check photos in EVF/LCD and need to process in software with questionable benefits for just preserving highlight a bit more but may also suffer a bit higher shadow noise.

But, in this context, I think the reference to "pure theorists" is insulting.

Not for you so you don't need to fit yourself in. Pure theorists are no any insulting mean but just for some mainly emphasize in theory not in practice and reality.

As you said we all have different preference and priority. I am very satisfied my 'way' as that delivers the photos in my expectation.

Jim

 PWPhotography's gear list:PWPhotography's gear list
Canon EOS-1D Mark III Sony a9 Sony a7R III Sony a7R IV Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye +17 more
JimKasson
JimKasson Forum Pro • Posts: 27,430
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv
1

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

splashy wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

The Iso discussion we had 2 times before, question remains do you like the picture of the lion , or prefer to risk underexpose, in this case because of fixed (low) Iso.

The pure theorists will tell you under fixed low ISO is not underexposed but under-brightness Remember ISO stop is not part of exposure But in reality we all do by using native ISO in certain applications at least for the right brightness which in practically not that much difference from exposure, at least as labelled in Lr for example, lol.

What I don't understand, why spend a small fortune on camera and lenses, if you don't know the existence of manual on the 7 IV camera.

I personally more care methodology than theory as only final photos matter.

My advice in based not only upon a hard-won understanding of how the camera works, but upon actual usage, and the development of a way of working to take maximum advantage of the camera's capabilities. It's a different way of working than that chosen by PWPhotography. His apparently works for him. Mine works for me.

Really you will use A9 in dim-light sport at ISO 640 and push very dark photos many stops back as otherwise you'd need ISO 3200, 6400, 12800?

I have specifically advised against extreme pushes. You have ignored that advice, and have created a straw man.

OK, so we all agree in those applications, what problem? Not need to overreact My last post was not even posting under your post.

Here's what you ignored. The link is above, but I'll reproduce it here:

https://blog.kasson.com/a7riii/a7riii-exposure-strategy-auto-exposure-settings/

See the bold text below:

  • Set the ISO to base ISO
  • Set the camera to aperture-priority exposure mode
  • Set the aperture to whatever you wish
  • If the ETTR exposure is acceptable, you’re done; take the shot
  • If the shutter speed is too long, and you want some extra highlight protection, crank the EC down (make the numbers more negative) until you get an acceptable shutter speed.
  • Stop when you get to two stops underexposed from the ETTR setting.
  • If that gets you an acceptable shutter speed, you’re done; take the shot.
  • If not, set the ISO to 640
  • If the exposure is acceptable, you’re done; take the shot.
  • If the shutter speed is too long, and you want some extra highlight protection, crank the EC down (make the numbers more negative) until you get an acceptable shutter speed.
  • Stop when you get to three stops underexposed.
  • If that’s still a short enough exposure, increase ISO until you get a shutter speed you can live with, keeping the EC three stops underexposed.

It will work but you cannot check photos in EVF/LCD and need to process in software with questionable benefits for just preserving highlight a bit more but may also suffer a bit higher shadow noise.

But, in this context, I think the reference to "pure theorists" is insulting.

Not for you so you don't need to fit yourself in. Pure theorists are no any insulting mean but just for some mainly emphasize in theory not in practice and reality.

As you said we all have different preference and priority. I am very satisfied my 'way' as that delivers the photos in my expectation.

Jim

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 JimKasson's gear list:JimKasson's gear list
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Guy Churchward
OP Guy Churchward Regular Member • Posts: 436
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

PWPhotography wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

splashy wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

The Iso discussion we had 2 times before, question remains do you like the picture of the lion , or prefer to risk underexpose, in this case because of fixed (low) Iso.

What I don't understand, why spend a small fortune on camera and lenses, if you don't know the existence of manual on the 7 IV camera.

this is a forum and I am asking question not for trolling... It was suggested to me to open my lens to F8 on a bee picture and I am experimenting/learning the camera ....I know the existence of the manual setting, I could not adjust both settings in that mode last night. knowing this is where to hunt I will go back and figure out why I couldn’t adjust both settings in manual.

If necessary reset camera to factory default after taking some note on some important setting. Then unless if camera is broken no reason why M mode will not work - move dial to M and rotate front and back wheel to adjust aperture and shutter speed accordingly. Then choose ISO separately either fixed ISO or auto-ISO.

Will do, thx...

 Guy Churchward's gear list:Guy Churchward's gear list
Sony RX100 II Sony a7R IV Sony 1.4x Teleconverter Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm F4 ZA OSS Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro +2 more
PWPhotography Veteran Member • Posts: 9,183
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

splashy wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

The Iso discussion we had 2 times before, question remains do you like the picture of the lion , or prefer to risk underexpose, in this case because of fixed (low) Iso.

The pure theorists will tell you under fixed low ISO is not underexposed but under-brightness Remember ISO stop is not part of exposure But in reality we all do by using native ISO in certain applications at least for the right brightness which in practically not that much difference from exposure, at least as labelled in Lr for example, lol.

What I don't understand, why spend a small fortune on camera and lenses, if you don't know the existence of manual on the 7 IV camera.

I personally more care methodology than theory as only final photos matter.

My advice in based not only upon a hard-won understanding of how the camera works, but upon actual usage, and the development of a way of working to take maximum advantage of the camera's capabilities. It's a different way of working than that chosen by PWPhotography. His apparently works for him. Mine works for me.

Really you will use A9 in dim-light sport at ISO 640 and push very dark photos many stops back as otherwise you'd need ISO 3200, 6400, 12800?

I have specifically advised against extreme pushes. You have ignored that advice, and have created a straw man.

OK, so we all agree in those applications, what problem? Not need to overreact My last post was not even posting under your post.

Here's what you ignored. The link is above, but I'll reproduce it here:

??? Why I should care? The question is why you so against auto-ISO in those applications - sport and wildlife? What problem? Do you suggest sport PJs to check your list one by one before hitting shutter?

https://blog.kasson.com/a7riii/a7riii-exposure-strategy-auto-exposure-settings/

See the bold text below:

  • Set the ISO to base ISO
  • Set the camera to aperture-priority exposure mode
  • Set the aperture to whatever you wish
  • If the ETTR exposure is acceptable, you’re done; take the shot
  • If the shutter speed is too long, and you want some extra highlight protection, crank the EC down (make the numbers more negative) until you get an acceptable shutter speed.
  • Stop when you get to two stops underexposed from the ETTR setting.
  • If that gets you an acceptable shutter speed, you’re done; take the shot.
  • If not, set the ISO to 640
  • If the exposure is acceptable, you’re done; take the shot.
  • If the shutter speed is too long, and you want some extra highlight protection, crank the EC down (make the numbers more negative) until you get an acceptable shutter speed.
  • Stop when you get to three stops underexposed.
  • If that’s still a short enough exposure, increase ISO until you get a shutter speed you can live with, keeping the EC three stops underexposed.

It will work but you cannot check photos in EVF/LCD and need to process in software with questionable benefits for just preserving highlight a bit more but may also suffer a bit higher shadow noise.

But, in this context, I think the reference to "pure theorists" is insulting.

Not for you so you don't need to fit yourself in. Pure theorists are no any insulting mean but just for some mainly emphasize in theory not in practice and reality.

As you said we all have different preference and priority. I am very satisfied my 'way' as that delivers the photos in my expectation.

Jim

 PWPhotography's gear list:PWPhotography's gear list
Canon EOS-1D Mark III Sony a9 Sony a7R III Sony a7R IV Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye +17 more
JimKasson
JimKasson Forum Pro • Posts: 27,430
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

splashy wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

The Iso discussion we had 2 times before, question remains do you like the picture of the lion , or prefer to risk underexpose, in this case because of fixed (low) Iso.

The pure theorists will tell you under fixed low ISO is not underexposed but under-brightness Remember ISO stop is not part of exposure But in reality we all do by using native ISO in certain applications at least for the right brightness which in practically not that much difference from exposure, at least as labelled in Lr for example, lol.

What I don't understand, why spend a small fortune on camera and lenses, if you don't know the existence of manual on the 7 IV camera.

I personally more care methodology than theory as only final photos matter.

My advice in based not only upon a hard-won understanding of how the camera works, but upon actual usage, and the development of a way of working to take maximum advantage of the camera's capabilities. It's a different way of working than that chosen by PWPhotography. His apparently works for him. Mine works for me.

Really you will use A9 in dim-light sport at ISO 640 and push very dark photos many stops back as otherwise you'd need ISO 3200, 6400, 12800?

I have specifically advised against extreme pushes. You have ignored that advice, and have created a straw man.

OK, so we all agree in those applications, what problem? Not need to overreact My last post was not even posting under your post.

Here's what you ignored. The link is above, but I'll reproduce it here:

??? Why I should care?

If you think that mischaracterizing someone else's position for the purpose of making your argument sound better is a fine thing to do, you should not care. If you don't think that, you should.

The question is why you so against auto-ISO in those applications - sport and wildlife? What problem? Do you suggest sport PJs to check your list one by one before hitting shutter?

Again, you are ignoring what I've already said:

"Sounds like a lot of fiddling, but after you’ve painstakingly followed the steps above a few times, you’ll get a feel for it and will be able to take many shortcuts. The idea is to make use of the highlight protection that comes with what would generally be called underexposure, and boost the gain in postproduction, which, thanks to the nature of the a7RIII sensor, has practically no noise penalty."

Jim

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lovehifi Contributing Member • Posts: 664
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Following this thread and read the link. Informative but almost too technical for me as a hobbyist. I leave my A7RIV on 100 or 320 as a default ISO most the time for just normal shooting. More on 320. However where I run into an issue is using auto ISO and higher shutter speeds. Example shooting faster moving subjects. 1/2000 sec, F6.3 and auto ISO 100-3200. Many times the ISO will jump up to the highest setting overexposing highlights. I have started just setting manual ISO or bringing down the high ISO setting with auto ISO. I find when tracking a subject that AF tracking modes really like some contrast between the subject and background and if the camera jumps too high in the ISO range when using auto ISO it can hurt tracking success. Sometimes I even set the ISO manually just a tad low and underexpose a little. Problem is when using manual ISO is when the subject crosses from say a dim to bright background. Am I doing something wrong when it comes to setting auto ISO?

PWPhotography Veteran Member • Posts: 9,183
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

One thing I learnt is never arguing you in theory as you always 'win'

That's fine as I said I more care methodology than theory, so as you said agree on disagree    I prefer my methods that based on field experiences and work for me best such as configuring two modes in airshow - dial 1 (ISO 50, Tv mode with 1/200 default) and dial 2 (auto-ISO, M-mode, f6.3 and 1/200 default), and then also configure and use Install-Recall.

 PWPhotography's gear list:PWPhotography's gear list
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JimKasson
JimKasson Forum Pro • Posts: 27,430
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

PWPhotography wrote:

One thing I learnt is never arguing you in theory as you always 'win'

That's fine as I said I more care methodology than theory, so as you said agree on disagree I prefer my methods that based on field experiences and work for me best such as configuring two modes in airshow - dial 1 (ISO 50, Tv mode with 1/200 default) and dial 2 (auto-ISO, M-mode, f6.3 and 1/200 default), and then also configure and use Install-Recall.

Again, I will point out that this is not a discussion of theory, but of two different ways of working.

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PWPhotography Veteran Member • Posts: 9,183
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

One thing I learnt is never arguing you in theory as you always 'win'

That's fine as I said I more care methodology than theory, so as you said agree on disagree I prefer my methods that based on field experiences and work for me best such as configuring two modes in airshow - dial 1 (ISO 50, Tv mode with 1/200 default) and dial 2 (auto-ISO, M-mode, f6.3 and 1/2000 default), and then also configure and use Install-Recall.

Again, I will point out that this is not a discussion of theory, but of two different ways of working.

Sure. My issue with Sony bodies, or otherwise no need for two modes if,

1) ISO 50 can be added into auto-ISO (but not ISO 64 and 80). It's an option.

2) Even better if Sony could add such terrific Safety-Shift feature as Canon and Nikon (also ISO 50 can be part of auto-ISO that is an option) implemented a decade ago. It's also an option.

Is a showstopper? Nope but just a bit annoying.

Yeap we have different ways (I call methods) of working. Such my configuration works for me best that only matters

 PWPhotography's gear list:PWPhotography's gear list
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techjedi
techjedi Senior Member • Posts: 3,776
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

Put the camera in manual.

One of the unlabeled mode dials will now control shutter speed and the other will control aperture.

If you don't have enough ambient light for the aperture/shutter speed combination you can add fill light (strobes, hot lights) or you can bump up ISO.

Is there a particular type of shot you are trying to achieve or just experimenting?

 techjedi's gear list:techjedi's gear list
Sony a7R III Sony FE 70-200 F4 Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro Sony RX100 Sony a6500 +18 more
JimKasson
JimKasson Forum Pro • Posts: 27,430
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

One thing I learnt is never arguing you in theory as you always 'win'

That's fine as I said I more care methodology than theory, so as you said agree on disagree I prefer my methods that based on field experiences and work for me best such as configuring two modes in airshow - dial 1 (ISO 50, Tv mode with 1/200 default) and dial 2 (auto-ISO, M-mode, f6.3 and 1/2000 default), and then also configure and use Install-Recall.

Again, I will point out that this is not a discussion of theory, but of two different ways of working.

Sure. My issue with Sony bodies, or otherwise no need for two modes if,

1) ISO 50 can be added into auto-ISO (but not ISO 64 and 80). It's an option.

2) Even better if Sony could add such terrific Safety-Shift feature as Canon and Nikon (also ISO 50 can be part of auto-ISO that is an option) implemented a decade ago. It's also an option.

Is a showstopper? Nope but just a bit annoying.

Yeap we have different ways (I call methods) of working. Such my configuration works for me best that only matters

You mean "only that matters", right? If so, that's right. For you.

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PWPhotography Veteran Member • Posts: 9,183
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

JimKasson wrote:

PWPhotography wrote:

One thing I learnt is never arguing you in theory as you always 'win'

That's fine as I said I more care methodology than theory, so as you said agree on disagree I prefer my methods that based on field experiences and work for me best such as configuring two modes in airshow - dial 1 (ISO 50, Tv mode with 1/200 default) and dial 2 (auto-ISO, M-mode, f6.3 and 1/2000 default), and then also configure and use Install-Recall.

Again, I will point out that this is not a discussion of theory, but of two different ways of working.

Sure. My issue with Sony bodies, or otherwise no need for two modes if,

1) ISO 50 can be added into auto-ISO (but not ISO 64 and 80). It's an option.

2) Even better if Sony could add such terrific Safety-Shift feature as Canon and Nikon (also ISO 50 can be part of auto-ISO that is an option) implemented a decade ago. It's also an option.

Is a showstopper? Nope but just a bit annoying.

Yeap we have different ways (I call methods) of working. Such my configuration works for me best that only matters

You mean "only that matters", right? If so, that's right. For you.

Sure, as your ways of working matter to you. Such as you suggested to use the EC wheel instead of ISO 50 and two configurations in my case with the same end result. Then I'd argue in my defense that by using EC does't have right brightness in EVF/LCD and you still need to adjust in software, no mention I had to tape the EC wheel that is a big issue to many owners forced Sony now to implement an optional EC lock on A9 II and A7r IV. Appears your method have extra 'issues' or steps but with the same end result to me, why on earth I should not use my method but yours? I shoot in fields and I fully experience those issues to me so I adopt the method working best for me. That what I said our respective method matters to each of us respectively, unless you can elaborate (such as auto-ISO in this thread in those applications) that my methods will result inferior photos that I will dispute that takes into account of capturing moments and process.

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Guy Churchward
OP Guy Churchward Regular Member • Posts: 436
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

Put the camera in manual.

One of the unlabeled mode dials will now control shutter speed and the other will control aperture.

If you don't have enough ambient light for the aperture/shutter speed combination you can add fill light (strobes, hot lights) or you can bump up ISO.

Is there a particular type of shot you are trying to achieve or just experimenting?

I took this bee pic and it was suggested to jump the Fstop to 8..

am playing with the camera.. basically trying out track mode and honing a lens.. got a good snag on a hummingbird so super happy with setup, just cramming refresher knowledge

Basically trying to figure out the perfect combo and mode setting for wildlife using the 74 and 100-400 and  them laying the 1.4x

bee pic can get a lot batter, just figuring it out before I have subjects I can’t try out on..

 Guy Churchward's gear list:Guy Churchward's gear list
Sony RX100 II Sony a7R IV Sony 1.4x Teleconverter Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm F4 ZA OSS Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro +2 more
techjedi
techjedi Senior Member • Posts: 3,776
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Guy Churchward wrote:

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

Put the camera in manual.

One of the unlabeled mode dials will now control shutter speed and the other will control aperture.

If you don't have enough ambient light for the aperture/shutter speed combination you can add fill light (strobes, hot lights) or you can bump up ISO.

Is there a particular type of shot you are trying to achieve or just experimenting?

I took this bee pic and it was suggested to jump the Fstop to 8..

am playing with the camera.. basically trying out track mode and honing a lens.. got a good snag on a hummingbird so super happy with setup, just cramming refresher knowledge

Basically trying to figure out the perfect combo and mode setting for wildlife using the 74 and 100-400 and them laying the 1.4x

bee pic can get a lot batter, just figuring it out before I have subjects I can’t try out on..

First, I like these photos, so you are doing well already.

Another thing you can do is to use flash for macro. Then you can keep the shutter speed slower since the flash is going to "freeze" the scene, but still have ambient light in the background. The other great thing is you can handhold without worrying about camera shake.

Here are a few narrow aperture shots at 1/160 shutter speed with flash. I also threw in at the end a shot with wide aperture chosen specifically for the "dreamy" look, but still with fill flash.

 techjedi's gear list:techjedi's gear list
Sony a7R III Sony FE 70-200 F4 Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro Sony RX100 Sony a6500 +18 more
AZHiker Forum Member • Posts: 89
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

I normally shoot aperture priority and set the ISO to the max I want. If I don't think the shutter speed is high enough I will either change the ISO or aperture.

Guy Churchward
OP Guy Churchward Regular Member • Posts: 436
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

Put the camera in manual.

One of the unlabeled mode dials will now control shutter speed and the other will control aperture.

If you don't have enough ambient light for the aperture/shutter speed combination you can add fill light (strobes, hot lights) or you can bump up ISO.

Is there a particular type of shot you are trying to achieve or just experimenting?

I took this bee pic and it was suggested to jump the Fstop to 8..

am playing with the camera.. basically trying out track mode and honing a lens.. got a good snag on a hummingbird so super happy with setup, just cramming refresher knowledge

Basically trying to figure out the perfect combo and mode setting for wildlife using the 74 and 100-400 and them laying the 1.4x

bee pic can get a lot batter, just figuring it out before I have subjects I can’t try out on..

First, I like these photos, so you are doing well already.

Another thing you can do is to use flash for macro. Then you can keep the shutter speed slower since the flash is going to "freeze" the scene, but still have ambient light in the background. The other great thing is you can handhold without worrying about camera shake.

Here are a few narrow aperture shots at 1/160 shutter speed with flash. I also threw in at the end a shot with wide aperture chosen specifically for the "dreamy" look, but still with fill flash.

Makes me want to buy the 90m

 Guy Churchward's gear list:Guy Churchward's gear list
Sony RX100 II Sony a7R IV Sony 1.4x Teleconverter Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm F4 ZA OSS Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro +2 more
techjedi
techjedi Senior Member • Posts: 3,776
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Guy Churchward wrote:

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

Put the camera in manual.

One of the unlabeled mode dials will now control shutter speed and the other will control aperture.

If you don't have enough ambient light for the aperture/shutter speed combination you can add fill light (strobes, hot lights) or you can bump up ISO.

Is there a particular type of shot you are trying to achieve or just experimenting?

I took this bee pic and it was suggested to jump the Fstop to 8..

am playing with the camera.. basically trying out track mode and honing a lens.. got a good snag on a hummingbird so super happy with setup, just cramming refresher knowledge

Basically trying to figure out the perfect combo and mode setting for wildlife using the 74 and 100-400 and them laying the 1.4x

bee pic can get a lot batter, just figuring it out before I have subjects I can’t try out on..

First, I like these photos, so you are doing well already.

Another thing you can do is to use flash for macro. Then you can keep the shutter speed slower since the flash is going to "freeze" the scene, but still have ambient light in the background. The other great thing is you can handhold without worrying about camera shake.

Here are a few narrow aperture shots at 1/160 shutter speed with flash. I also threw in at the end a shot with wide aperture chosen specifically for the "dreamy" look, but still with fill flash.

Makes me want to buy the 90m

Its worth it. Even if you put the macro IQ performance aside, the handling for macro focusing scenarios is really amazing. It's focus ring that just clicks back/forward into manual/auto and is very smooth and controlled. One of the few electronically wired MF rings that feels nearly the same as mechanically linked.

 techjedi's gear list:techjedi's gear list
Sony a7R III Sony FE 70-200 F4 Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro Sony RX100 Sony a6500 +18 more
PWPhotography Veteran Member • Posts: 9,183
Re: f8 and 1/2500 on an A7Riv

Guy Churchward wrote:

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

techjedi wrote:

Guy Churchward wrote:

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to manually step the F down and have a fast shutter speed on the camera... hints welcome please... Thx Guy

Put the camera in manual.

One of the unlabeled mode dials will now control shutter speed and the other will control aperture.

If you don't have enough ambient light for the aperture/shutter speed combination you can add fill light (strobes, hot lights) or you can bump up ISO.

Is there a particular type of shot you are trying to achieve or just experimenting?

I took this bee pic and it was suggested to jump the Fstop to 8..

am playing with the camera.. basically trying out track mode and honing a lens.. got a good snag on a hummingbird so super happy with setup, just cramming refresher knowledge

Basically trying to figure out the perfect combo and mode setting for wildlife using the 74 and 100-400 and them laying the 1.4x

bee pic can get a lot batter, just figuring it out before I have subjects I can’t try out on..

First, I like these photos, so you are doing well already.

Another thing you can do is to use flash for macro. Then you can keep the shutter speed slower since the flash is going to "freeze" the scene, but still have ambient light in the background. The other great thing is you can handhold without worrying about camera shake.

Here are a few narrow aperture shots at 1/160 shutter speed with flash. I also threw in at the end a shot with wide aperture chosen specifically for the "dreamy" look, but still with fill flash.

very nice photos above.

Makes me want to buy the 90m

Yeah FE 90/2.8 macro is well known very sharp but heard copy variation in early batch that should be resolved now in production. Personally I have not taken much micro photos these years after a while ago with Canon old EF 100/2.8 (non-IS & L version) macro and then bought Sigma EF 150/2.8 OS macro (still keep) that is pretty good and still can AF via MC-11 adapter. I also used FE 100-400 GM as sort of micro lens these days as a lazy man but guess will get FE 90/2.8 macro (hope is 100mm) sometime later, just not in high priority. Tamron lenses are known in short minimum focal length (MFL) in FE 28-75 and also hope in forthcoming FE 70-180/2.8 (but too bad appear it doesn't have VC) so also good choice in close-up photos.

 PWPhotography's gear list:PWPhotography's gear list
Canon EOS-1D Mark III Sony a9 Sony a7R III Sony a7R IV Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye +17 more
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