Canon EOS M6 Mk II Tips and Tricks

alan brown wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

I like to have the M-Fn button (next to the shutter) set to switch between "One-Shot AF" and "Servo AF." I use BBAF (with AF disassociated from the shutter button), so this setup is extremely versatile.

Note that you can have the AF choices in the "Q" menu set up differently than the M-Fn button too (this is where I have the Face Tracking option! ).

Happy customizing!

R2

Could you explain how the af-on button works? Is it a press and hold or can you also set it up to toggle? What I am hoping for is that the af switch around the af-on button, when set to af, would focus when depressing the shutter. Then, the switch is set to mf, the af-on button could do bbf, preferably with a toggle option.

Thanks for all you posts on the M series. I've learned a great deal.

AF-On is press and hold.  Let up to lock focus.  Normally AF is then disassociated from the shutter button.

When the switch is set to MF, you get manual focus (only).

R2

J Peters wrote:

On the M5 so probably works on the M6: Tap the LCD screen during the 2-second period when your shot is being displayed for review.

Tapping will keep the shot there indefinitely, for those occasions when you want a better look. Once done, you can pinch-zoom if you wish, and you can view the shot settings (with the INFO button on the M5). You can also delete the shot with the Delete button if it's a dud.

This saves constant toggling between shooting and playback modes - the limitation is that you can only perform these operations on the most recent shot.

Nice one.  Thanks!

R2

OK, we’ve discussed ways to disable the EVF’s proximity sensor if desired (cover with black electrical tape).  Enable manual switching, etc.  You do have to wake the EVF now by tapping the shutter button (ie) though.  But that power up delay can often be annoying.

So then how about if you want to keep the EVF from ever timing out?  (It follows the “metering timer“ setting, which can be extended if desired).  But to go further and keep it on until the (longer) “sleep” timer eventually kicks in?  Here’s how.

* Instead of black electrical tape, cover the sensor with a piece of translucent “Magic” tape. Not the clear stuff, but the kind you can’t see clearly through.

Voila, now the EVF will stay active and not time out until the “Sleep” timer rolls around.  No waiting for the EVF sensor to activate when you bring the camera up to your eye.  No needing to bump the shutter button to manually activate it.  Niiiiice.

Just remember to bring an extra battery.

Happy shooting everyone!

R2

E-M1XR wrote:

For continuous tracking go into the custom function menu and set the ‘Initial Servo AF pt for [face tracking]’ and change from ‘auto’ to ‘1:initial af pt set for [face tracking]’.

Took me a little while to find this one as Canon menus are so intuitive it’s in a completely different spot to the EOS R (and momentarily thought it didn’t have this feature).

This is (for me) by far the best way to have tracking focus set up on these. It gives you an initial focus tracking box (that can be moved) that you put over whatever you want to track. Then start focussing (even better with back button AF) and it will continue to track that object. If it detects a face or eye will switch to those and if it stops tracking the subject will switch to the dancing AF points on the subject (such as if it turns around). Most of the time I never need to use any other AF option.

Bingo.  Exactly how I set up tracking too (when I’m not using Spot AF)!  This camera acquires and tracks soooo well.  

R2

Been playing with Fv mode...the trash button resets everything to auto but I reassigned the exposure compensation button (+-) to reset just the one that's currently selected (if that makes sense lol)...anyone else using this mode?

MaartenT wrote:

Is anybody experiencing issues with the e-TTL II function of the M6II ? I'm looking for a flash that supports e-ttl for macrophotography, and I found already out that the MEIKE 24 EX twin flashes are not compatible, but now I am experiencing the same with the YongNuo YN24EX twin flashes, although those should be compatible. I have no experience with another external flash. So wondering if the body could have an e-ttl issue ?

I have no issues with any of my Canon or 3rd party flashes.

If you start an entirely new (specific) thread here, you’ll get a lot more views.

R2

It took me awhile to figure this out. First, I think R2 has it wrong about the metering timer. It appears to me that the EVF has its own time out feature fixed at only about 4 seconds. I couldn’t seem to change that with metering timing changes.

The translucent tape idea had me totally confused, but yes, ordinary electrical tape doesn’t quite work right. It simply blocks the sensor from working and we actually want to fool the sensor into thinking we have it up to our eye. I wasn’t sure what type of tape R2 was referring to but I am now certain I don’t have any. I made a wild guess as to what is going on and came up with a solution that seems to be working. I cut a tiny piece of clear plastic (from a package of batteries) and then taped that over the sensor with electrical tape. I think the sensor needs space for internal reflections that the electrical tape alone can block. I don’t yet know how well my sensor trigger is going to stay in place, but it is now working for me and has the stylish benefit of being virtually invisible black.

The operation of the viewfinder with the tape in place has two choices. With the “Display control” set to auto, the camera powers up to the EVF. You can then toggle between the rear display and the EVF with the button on the side of the EVF, but it will always be the EVF on power up. The second option is with “Display control” in manual. Now the camera powers up to whichever was selected last. The button on the EVF still toggles between displays and the camera stores the setting (you can actually see it change in the menu option).

AKRover wrote:

It took me awhile to figure this out. First, I think R2 has it wrong about the metering timer. It appears to me that the EVF has its own time out feature fixed at only about 4 seconds. I couldn’t seem to change that with metering timing changes.

Yes, the EVF does time out after about 4 seconds.

The translucent tape idea had me totally confused, but yes, ordinary electrical tape doesn’t quite work right.

There are two things you can do with the sensor. block it entirely with electrical tape so that it never functions, and you have to wake it with a button push. Or...

It simply blocks the sensor from working and we actually want to fool the sensor into thinking we have it up to our eye. I wasn’t sure what type of tape R2 was referring to but I am now certain I don’t have any. I made a wild guess as to what is going on and came up with a solution that seems to be working. I cut a tiny piece of clear plastic (from a package of batteries) and then taped that over the sensor with electrical tape. I think the sensor needs space for internal reflections that the electrical tape alone can block.

"Magic" tape works for the other method (when you want to keep the EVF active 100% of the time)...

Scotch Magic Tape

I don’t yet know how well my sensor trigger is going to stay in place, but it is now working for me and has the stylish benefit of being virtually invisible black.

It should be fine.

The operation of the viewfinder with the tape in place has two choices. With the “Display control” set to auto, the camera powers up to the EVF. You can then toggle between the rear display and the EVF with the button on the side of the EVF, but it will always be the EVF on power up. The second option is with “Display control” in manual. Now the camera powers up to whichever was selected last.

That's the way I have it.

The button on the EVF still toggles between displays and the camera stores the setting (you can actually see it change in the menu option).

Right.

R2

nnowak wrote:

AKRover wrote:

I wasn’t sure what type of tape R2 was referring to but I am now certain I don’t have any.

In the US and Canada, you would likely call it "Scotch" tape. In the UK it would be called "Sello" tape. Basically, any matte/frosted translucent tape that you would use for taping paper together or wrapping gifts.

+1 Thanks for clarifying.  I like the "frosted" description. 

R2

Thanks to both for clarification.  When my tape falls off and the stores open back up, I now know more precisely the solution.

R2D2 wrote:

> Shoot in high-speed bursts, whether photographing action or not. Many different ways to do this with this camera (Bursts at 7 or 14 FPS, "Focus Bracketing" with the electronic shutter, "Raw Burst" mode, Handheld Night Scene, Multi-shot Noise Reduction, etc etc). Cherry pick the best (one shot is invariably sharper than the rest). I gain at least a stop in handhold-ability in low light doing this! In fact I call it "Poor Man's Image Stabilization."

Hope these help you!

R2

I tried this and was able to consistently hand hold a non-IS 70-200mm f/4 L lens set to 135mm at 1/30 second and get sharp images. For me that would normally require at least 1/125 and probably faster. As a comparison, I tried to do this in single shot mode at 1/30 and the result was blur city. I think what happens is that as my unsteady arm changes from one direction to another there are moments when it is actually still. The burst captures these. Very useful technique, thanks R2!

Microprism wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

> Shoot in high-speed bursts, whether photographing action or not. Many different ways to do this with this camera (Bursts at 7 or 14 FPS, "Focus Bracketing" with the electronic shutter, "Raw Burst" mode, Handheld Night Scene, Multi-shot Noise Reduction, etc etc). Cherry pick the best (one shot is invariably sharper than the rest). I gain at least a stop in handhold-ability in low light doing this! In fact I call it "Poor Man's Image Stabilization."

Hope these help you!

R2

I tried this and was able to consistently hand hold a non-IS 70-200mm f/4 L lens set to 135mm at 1/30 second and get sharp images. For me that would normally require at least 1/125 and probably faster. As a comparison, I tried to do this in single shot mode at 1/30 and the result was blur city. I think what happens is that as my unsteady arm changes from one direction to another there are moments when it is actually still. The burst captures these. Very useful technique, thanks R2!

Glad it helps!  I shoot bursts darn near 100% of the time.  The added benefit of course is in capturing that decisive moment!  

Happy shooting!

R2

In case you didn't know, you can utilize the function "Focus Bracketing" in order to shoot several images in quick succession, without any noticeable delay. Extremely helpful fro image stacking.

Just go to Focus Bracketing, select your desired count of shoots, focus your lens properly, switch to Manual Focus (the switch on the back or on your lens) and start your exposures.

Have a look at some resulting images here (disclaimer, the first images on the moon, are not done by this technique, but the idea it the same:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4518744