theEntreriCode wrote:
I am not a faon of Sony cameras for much the same reason. I will look at what Canon have to offer. I think though, I'll stick to a GoPro for now, get 50 dives in various conditions under my belt and then take a look at under water photography again. The investment is much more than I can afford for now and I'd definitely like to become a better diver before I try such complicated stuff underwater.
I think being an underwater photographer also helps to improve your buoyancy skills, if you really care about the images and pixel peep them. While you are taking a shot you will soon see if you are holding the camera steady, especially when zoomed in on a small subject.
Next you find you have to be able to get the camera into the proper position, and that leads to both better control and a better appreciation of how to approach the subject and deal with both current and obstructions. (And if you are wearing a shorty or no wetsuit, you may become intimately familiar with the need to stay away from Fire Coral.
After getting sore ears after repetitive diving due to 'following the terrain closely', you may become more familiar with your ears, maintaining a more consistent dive profile and clearing your ears more often.
You'll become intimately familiar with your dive gear, knowing unconsciously how to add and release air from your BCD as you descend or ascend to a subject. (A hint here: When releasing air from your BCD, you don't have to lift your low pressure inflator above your head, you can simply raise that shoulder and pull on the low pressure inflator. The inflator should have a cable built in that pulls up a dump valve on the back of your shoulder. If you dive with crossed arms you'll have a hand right near the inflator anyway. Your inflator should have a 'ball near the shoulder to help pull on it. You just have to be somewhat upright to have air in your BCD at that shoulder when you pull.)
The biggest change I found to how I dove happened not when shooting a small camera carried in one hand, but when there is a handle and external flash added. Once you get past the stage where you can just let go of a small camera and let it dangle from your wrist, you've changed how you'll have to dive. Once you get to a camera with two grip handles, you'll be diving without the use of your hands for the most part, something experienced divers do anyway, but which can really bother new divers.
And of course there are then numerous potential distractions and possibility of information overload. Let me describe what I do at the beginning of every dive, once I get in the water. (Boat diving primarily).
As soon as I hit the water I return to the boat where someone pulls the camera out of a rinse tank and hands it (CAREFULLY) down to me. I grab it and nob my head to let them know I have control of it before they let go.
Now I get away from the boat (current may try to push me back, possibly under another diver ready to drop in on top of me.) while FIRST attaching my camera tether to my BCD.
I recommend doing the next part on the surface if possible, but I often end up doing it as I descend.
2. (#1 is 'attach camera to me') I loosen 7 clamps to the proper tension so I can position my focus light and strobe arms.
3. turn on strobes and observe power light indicating success
4. turn on camera, look through viewfinder and make sure autofocus is working
5. take a test shot and ensure both strobes fire
6. clear ears while descending.
Last couple of weeks I dove 34 times. Because I often do the above while descending to 30-40 feet, I've come up with a mantra: EARS FIRST It's easy to get caught up in getting the strobes moved to the right position and retensioning the clamps and descend 20 feet without clearing your ears. So prioritize your ears. As long as it is safe, it's best to get the camera ready to go before descending.
Those clamps - they can be problematic/time consuming. I have them tightened up hard so the strobes don't flop all over when handing the camera on or off a boat, and they are turned such that the grab rope on top is accessible and strobes are turned so the whole rig fit in a (big) rinse bucket. The older the o-rings get, the more they take a set and make it hard to get the proper tension on the arms. Smooth tension makes it easy to re-aim the strobes while not so loose the strobes move in the current. I've spent the entire descent dealing with them.
Here's something else you have to worry about and deal with. Those clamps have the adjusting handles facing toward you. Your regulator hose WILL get caught under one of them, and when you move the camera you'll find it trying to pull the regulator out of your mouth. And your mask will probably prevent you from seeing the problem, so you'll have to detangle yourself by feel. This is NOT something you want a new diver to experience.
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Phoenix Arizona Craig
www.cjcphoto.net
"In theory, practice and theory are the same. In practice, they're not."
