Which kind of external flash trigger would I need?

dinoSnake wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

Hi, I have a Flashpoint R2 O mini flash, which I think is the same as the Godox TT350o. Don’t use it much because due to the added weight and how it throws of the balance of my small cameras; E-M10 mkii, E-PM2 and G5.

Added Weight? Your flash weighs 7oz. Lol. The Godox transmitters weigh between 2.8 and 3.5oz, so you only save 3.5oz or so adding a trigger. And you mentioned adding a Tripod in your set which is more weight to carry around. Correct me if I am wrong, but you are trying to work out a solution for a few ounce problem?

You are wrong....

I mostly use manual lens and find that the flash throws the balance off when manual focusing.

I may have to agree with that, and why I got into the larger bodies as secondaries (first EM5.2, now G9) as my "studio" bodies. You shouldn't have much issue with the G5, but indeed it is difficult to use the smallest m43 bodies for indoor studio work, you do end up fiddling more and yet, flash controllers can tilt the balance off. The XPro-O is very light though, and should be nice even on your EM10.2 (I wouldn't recommend the E-PM2 for portrait work tho).

Got the E-M10 mkii last week, will be ordering the third party grip soon. It turns out the mki's original grip doesn't work with the mkii.

I don't do any studio work, just some quick street portraits.

Watched this video and the technique seems simple enough.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cuTcXpcWXwk

Thanks

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

Hi, I have a Flashpoint R2 O mini flash, which I think is the same as the Godox TT350o. Don’t use it much because due to the added weight and how it throws of the balance of my small cameras; E-M10 mkii, E-PM2 and G5.

Added Weight? Your flash weighs 7oz. Lol. The Godox transmitters weigh between 2.8 and 3.5oz, so you only save 3.5oz or so adding a trigger. And you mentioned adding a Tripod in your set which is more weight to carry around. Correct me if I am wrong, but you are trying to work out a solution for a few ounce problem?

I was watching a video on taking portraits with two flashes and it occurred to me that I could try placing the R2 in a tripod and use the optical trigger, but then I thought that getting a radio trigger? could be very useful not only for portraits, but also for macro photography and even wildlife. If it works well in a few months I could add an additional full size full manual flash.

If possible I would like a trigger that can TTL with the Flashpoint but also trigger the manual flash if I decide to get one. I can probably work with just 'regular' 1/160-250s sync speeds too. Any advice?

I have no idea where to begging… Can someone post a link to a good article or video tutorial explaining the options?

Thanks

You are wrong....

I mostly use manual lens and find that the flash throws the balance off when manual focusing. Also, having the flash off camera offers many advantages.

Btw, Not my case, but many people have switched to M43 to save a few ounces...

I understand switching to a smaller system, I have a large investment in m43 including OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Pen-F and a G9 and I have used them all professionally. I also have the Lithium Ion version of your flash. So we are in agreement about m43 and size. And I have various size lens and that flash has never effected any of my manual focusing. I also use off camera flash at every wedding and portrait shoot that I do, as well as on camera Flash.

My question was you are talking about the Weight of the small flash vs the weight of a Transmitter and the difference is going to be ounces.

But if you feel you need a solution that takes care of the balance i hope you find a good solution.

Thanks. What I originally had in mind was one of those tiny radio triggers that are quite a bit smaller than both Godox...

Aaron801 wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

Hi, I have a Flashpoint R2 O mini flash, which I think is the same as the Godox TT350o. Don’t use it much because due to the added weight and how it throws of the balance of my small cameras; E-M10 mkii, E-PM2 and G5.

Added Weight? Your flash weighs 7oz. Lol. The Godox transmitters weigh between 2.8 and 3.5oz, so you only save 3.5oz or so adding a trigger. And you mentioned adding a Tripod in your set which is more weight to carry around. Correct me if I am wrong, but you are trying to work out a solution for a few ounce problem?

I was watching a video on taking portraits with two flashes and it occurred to me that I could try placing the R2 in a tripod and use the optical trigger, but then I thought that getting a radio trigger? could be very useful not only for portraits, but also for macro photography and even wildlife. If it works well in a few months I could add an additional full size full manual flash.

If possible I would like a trigger that can TTL with the Flashpoint but also trigger the manual flash if I decide to get one. I can probably work with just 'regular' 1/160-250s sync speeds too. Any advice?

I have no idea where to begging… Can someone post a link to a good article or video tutorial explaining the options?

Thanks

You are wrong....

I mostly use manual lens and find that the flash throws the balance off when manual focusing. Also, having the flash off camera offers many advantages.

Btw, Not my case, but many people have switched to M43 to save a few ounces...

I haven't used the "pro" version of the trigger, but using the smaller, cheaper one with my EM10 and now the Pen F wasn't a problem for me. The pro one is slightly bigger and heavier but it's not as big or bulky as a flash unit so I can't really imagine that even on a smaller camera (like the ones that I've used) the weight of it would be much of an issue...

Thanks for the feedback.

M_digicapt wrote:

dinoSnake wrote:

I may have to agree with that, and why I got into the larger bodies as secondaries (first EM5.2, now G9) as my "studio" bodies. You shouldn't have much issue with the G5, but indeed it is difficult to use the smallest m43 bodies for indoor studio work, you do end up fiddling more and yet, flash controllers can tilt the balance off. The XPro-O is very light though, and should be nice even on your EM10.2 (I wouldn't recommend the E-PM2 for portrait work tho).

Got the E-M10 mkii last week, will be ordering the third party grip soon. It turns out the mki's original grip doesn't work with the mkii.

I don't do any studio work, just some quick street portraits.

Watched this video and the technique seems simple enough.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cuTcXpcWXwk

Yeah, looks great. Also visit Strobist (strobist.blogspot.com) for plenty of flash photography tips, free of charge!

The technique works, but the problem is power: the TT350 has a maximum GN of 35 @105mm and will be overtaxed at HSS when using the modifiers that he shows you.  I would recommend more modest expectations in modifier choice, and/or very careful subject positioning in shade to begin with, which will limit power requirements.

Look for a smaller modifier than what he is using so that the flash has less "space" to fill.  This will effect the results, which will cause an alteration in setup to compensate so as to get as close to your desired results as possible: you'll have to get closer, with a smaller modifier, which can cause more hot spots.  Don't be afraid to use direct flash with the diffusion panel on, or just a modest scrim, if necessary.

It's fun and exciting to experiment and learn flash technique, the hardest part is finding a model who is willing to stand by and work with you! 😋

dinoSnake wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

dinoSnake wrote:

I may have to agree with that, and why I got into the larger bodies as secondaries (first EM5.2, now G9) as my "studio" bodies. You shouldn't have much issue with the G5, but indeed it is difficult to use the smallest m43 bodies for indoor studio work, you do end up fiddling more and yet, flash controllers can tilt the balance off. The XPro-O is very light though, and should be nice even on your EM10.2 (I wouldn't recommend the E-PM2 for portrait work tho).

Got the E-M10 mkii last week, will be ordering the third party grip soon. It turns out the mki's original grip doesn't work with the mkii.

I don't do any studio work, just some quick street portraits.

Watched this video and the technique seems simple enough.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cuTcXpcWXwk

Yeah, looks great. Also visit Strobist (strobist.blogspot.com) for plenty of flash photography tips, free of charge!

The technique works, but the problem is power: the TT350 has a maximum GN of 35 @105mm and will be overtaxed at HSS when using the modifiers that he shows you. I would recommend more modest expectations in modifier choice, and/or very careful subject positioning in shade to begin with, which will limit power requirements.

Look for a smaller modifier than what he is using so that the flash has less "space" to fill. This will effect the results, which will cause an alteration in setup to compensate so as to get as close to your desired results as possible: you'll have to get closer, with a smaller modifier, which can cause more hot spots. Don't be afraid to use direct flash with the diffusion panel on, or just a modest scrim, if necessary.

It's fun and exciting to experiment and learn flash technique, the hardest part is finding a model who is willing to stand by and work with you! 😋

Thanks you for the useful information, will check the website…

I’ll be using longer FL and also shorter faster lenses, so I’m just borrowing the video’s concept and will have to adjust accordingly. Kind if figured that maybe the small flash wouldn’t always be enough that’s why I mentioned the full size manual flash. Thanks, will try using the small flash's direct light first.

M_digicapt wrote:

Thanks you for the useful information, will check the website…

I’ll be using longer FL and also shorter faster lenses, so I’m just borrowing the video’s concept and will have to adjust accordingly. Kind if figured that maybe the small flash wouldn’t always be enough that’s why I mentioned the full size manual flash. Thanks, will try using the small flash's direct light first.

It's worth sticking to Godox, even if it costs you a bit more: remote power control is a miracle when you're working with a living subject who's patience has, eventually, some type of limit.  And having all flashes with controllable power from the same trigger is the best convenience of all while you are juggling subject, framing, lighting and background simultaneously.

Aaron801 wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

Hi, I have a Flashpoint R2 O mini flash, which I think is the same as the Godox TT350o. Don’t use it much because due to the added weight and how it throws of the balance of my small cameras; E-M10 mkii, E-PM2 and G5.

Added Weight? Your flash weighs 7oz. Lol. The Godox transmitters weigh between 2.8 and 3.5oz, so you only save 3.5oz or so adding a trigger. And you mentioned adding a Tripod in your set which is more weight to carry around. Correct me if I am wrong, but you are trying to work out a solution for a few ounce problem?

I was watching a video on taking portraits with two flashes and it occurred to me that I could try placing the R2 in a tripod and use the optical trigger, but then I thought that getting a radio trigger? could be very useful not only for portraits, but also for macro photography and even wildlife. If it works well in a few months I could add an additional full size full manual flash.

If possible I would like a trigger that can TTL with the Flashpoint but also trigger the manual flash if I decide to get one. I can probably work with just 'regular' 1/160-250s sync speeds too. Any advice?

I have no idea where to begging… Can someone post a link to a good article or video tutorial explaining the options?

Thanks

You are wrong....

I mostly use manual lens and find that the flash throws the balance off when manual focusing. Also, having the flash off camera offers many advantages.

Btw, Not my case, but many people have switched to M43 to save a few ounces...

I understand switching to a smaller system, I have a large investment in m43 including OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Pen-F and a G9 and I have used them all professionally. I also have the Lithium Ion version of your flash. So we are in agreement about m43 and size. And I have various size lens and that flash has never effected any of my manual focusing. I also use off camera flash at every wedding and portrait shoot that I do, as well as on camera Flash.

My question was you are talking about the Weight of the small flash vs the weight of a Transmitter and the difference is going to be ounces.

But if you feel you need a solution that takes care of the balance i hope you find a good solution.

Thanks. What I originally had in mind was one of those tiny radio triggers that are quite a bit smaller than both Godox...

I started with an Olympus flash and bought a pair of the kind of triggers that you mention. They were Cactus brand and worked with any brand of flash. The might have been slightly smaller than the Godox one that I have, but if so, not by much. With that solution, you need two triggers, one for the camera end and one for the flash side. Also since these kind of things aren't an integrated solution, it can be harder to get everything to work and some features might not work at all. Those Cactus triggers were supposed to work TTL (basically automatically) with just about any flash (that has TTL capabilities of course). You had to set it to work with the brand of flash that you're using, but even though I set both of them to "Olympus" I couldn't get that part to work, so I had to use everything on manual, where you set the power of the flash (and if you move the flash or the subject moves in relation to it, you need to change the power setting to get the same exposure). Since the system isn't really integrated, you need to make that power setting on the flash itself and since that flash is probably up on a stand, it's extra inconvenient to have to deal with it.

I used that setup just once or twice and then immediately sold the Olympus flash and Cactus triggers, then bought a Godox flash and trigger. Those things are so cheap that what I sold the Olympus flash and the Catcus triggers for pretty much paid for the brand new Godox gear. Now I have a system that's far easier to setup, has less parts (only one trigger and only one needed for as many flashes that I might end up using), uses less batteries (one less trigger), works in TTL mode and I can control the power from the trigger on the camera (no more running to the flash to have to adjust it, which is really a drag!). Basically, the Godox system is so much better for off-camera flash and the design of it is maybe even better for on-camera flash than the Olympus as well. There are maybe a few flash trigger systems that are so small that they're noticeably smaller than the Godox ones (the Cactus I had was just a bit smaller, not enough to even notice) but the compromises that are made using a system like that with so much less connivence and speed seem like a poor bargain. The extra ease of use gained with the bigger of the two Godox triggers is again likely to be much more appreciated than the savings of an ounce or so of weight. Those things aren't really so bulky anyway and they're part of a very well integrated and very affordable system...

As I said, I don't find the Godox trigger bulky at all and I was using it on a smaller camera, an EM10. I have the smaller of two flashes that Godox sells and I have to admit that when it's on the camera, the whole setup is a bit top heavy and unbalanced. Still, the flash unit is smaller than most and pretty much any flash unit that has bounce capabilities (you want that of course) and has enough power to satisfy is going to be bulky on a small camera. It's not so bad though that I dread using the flash on-camera. I've proably used it that way at least as much or more than I have with an off-camera setup...

Thanks. Where do place the off camera flash? Do you use modifiers?

dinoSnake wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

Thanks you for the useful information, will check the website…

I’ll be using longer FL and also shorter faster lenses, so I’m just borrowing the video’s concept and will have to adjust accordingly. Kind if figured that maybe the small flash wouldn’t always be enough that’s why I mentioned the full size manual flash. Thanks, will try using the small flash's direct light first.

It's worth sticking to Godox, even if it costs you a bit more: remote power control is a miracle when you're working with a living subject who's patience has, eventually, some type of limit. And having all flashes with controllable power from the same trigger is the best convenience of all while you are juggling subject, framing, lighting and background simultaneously.

Thanks

Aaron801 wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

Aaron801 wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

flbdig wrote:

M_digicapt wrote:

Hi, I have a Flashpoint R2 O mini flash, which I think is the same as the Godox TT350o. Don’t use it much because due to the added weight and how it throws of the balance of my small cameras; E-M10 mkii, E-PM2 and G5.

Added Weight? Your flash weighs 7oz. Lol. The Godox transmitters weigh between 2.8 and 3.5oz, so you only save 3.5oz or so adding a trigger. And you mentioned adding a Tripod in your set which is more weight to carry around. Correct me if I am wrong, but you are trying to work out a solution for a few ounce problem?

I was watching a video on taking portraits with two flashes and it occurred to me that I could try placing the R2 in a tripod and use the optical trigger, but then I thought that getting a radio trigger? could be very useful not only for portraits, but also for macro photography and even wildlife. If it works well in a few months I could add an additional full size full manual flash.

If possible I would like a trigger that can TTL with the Flashpoint but also trigger the manual flash if I decide to get one. I can probably work with just 'regular' 1/160-250s sync speeds too. Any advice?

I have no idea where to begging… Can someone post a link to a good article or video tutorial explaining the options?

Thanks

You are wrong....

I mostly use manual lens and find that the flash throws the balance off when manual focusing. Also, having the flash off camera offers many advantages.

Btw, Not my case, but many people have switched to M43 to save a few ounces...

I understand switching to a smaller system, I have a large investment in m43 including OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Pen-F and a G9 and I have used them all professionally. I also have the Lithium Ion version of your flash. So we are in agreement about m43 and size. And I have various size lens and that flash has never effected any of my manual focusing. I also use off camera flash at every wedding and portrait shoot that I do, as well as on camera Flash.

My question was you are talking about the Weight of the small flash vs the weight of a Transmitter and the difference is going to be ounces.

But if you feel you need a solution that takes care of the balance i hope you find a good solution.

Thanks. What I originally had in mind was one of those tiny radio triggers that are quite a bit smaller than both Godox...

I started with an Olympus flash and bought a pair of the kind of triggers that you mention. They were Cactus brand and worked with any brand of flash. The might have been slightly smaller than the Godox one that I have, but if so, not by much. With that solution, you need two triggers, one for the camera end and one for the flash side. Also since these kind of things aren't an integrated solution, it can be harder to get everything to work and some features might not work at all. Those Cactus triggers were supposed to work TTL (basically automatically) with just about any flash (that has TTL capabilities of course). You had to set it to work with the brand of flash that you're using, but even though I set both of them to "Olympus" I couldn't get that part to work, so I had to use everything on manual, where you set the power of the flash (and if you move the flash or the subject moves in relation to it, you need to change the power setting to get the same exposure). Since the system isn't really integrated, you need to make that power setting on the flash itself and since that flash is probably up on a stand, it's extra inconvenient to have to deal with it.

I used that setup just once or twice and then immediately sold the Olympus flash and Cactus triggers, then bought a Godox flash and trigger. Those things are so cheap that what I sold the Olympus flash and the Catcus triggers for pretty much paid for the brand new Godox gear. Now I have a system that's far easier to setup, has less parts (only one trigger and only one needed for as many flashes that I might end up using), uses less batteries (one less trigger), works in TTL mode and I can control the power from the trigger on the camera (no more running to the flash to have to adjust it, which is really a drag!). Basically, the Godox system is so much better for off-camera flash and the design of it is maybe even better for on-camera flash than the Olympus as well. There are maybe a few flash trigger systems that are so small that they're noticeably smaller than the Godox ones (the Cactus I had was just a bit smaller, not enough to even notice) but the compromises that are made using a system like that with so much less connivence and speed seem like a poor bargain. The extra ease of use gained with the bigger of the two Godox triggers is again likely to be much more appreciated than the savings of an ounce or so of weight. Those things aren't really so bulky anyway and they're part of a very well integrated and very affordable system...

As I said, I don't find the Godox trigger bulky at all and I was using it on a smaller camera, an EM10. I have the smaller of two flashes that Godox sells and I have to admit that when it's on the camera, the whole setup is a bit top heavy and unbalanced. Still, the flash unit is smaller than most and pretty much any flash unit that has bounce capabilities (you want that of course) and has enough power to satisfy is going to be bulky on a small camera. It's not so bad though that I dread using the flash on-camera. I've proably used it that way at least as much or more than I have with an off-camera setup...

Thanks. Where do place the off camera flash? Do you use modifiers?

Most of the time it makes the most sense to put the flash on an inexpensive,lightweight stand. Modifiers are generally used and the cheapest and most versatile is probably a shoot through umbrella... but a reflective umbrella can also be nice. I'm really no expert in this area, but it seems that particularly if you go with Godox you can have a really inexpensive two or even three light setup that's really versatile and very easy to port around.

For more info about just this kind of thing, I'd visit the Strobist website. There's lots of info on there about getting the most milage out of very minimal flash gear. it's pretty much all based on off-camera flash stuff...

Thanks 👍

My recommendation would be to get the Xpro-O at $40 on sale from Adorama. I use this transmitter on my GX7 with a TT350o, TT685c, and two TT600s. I think it'll do what you want it to do.

Hello Kli,

While going through this post, I noticed that you have mentioned using the Xpro-O trigger with your GX7.  You meant the Panasonic Lumix GX7, right?

I have been searching for a really long time to get a trigger for my GX7.  I bought an X1T-O, but was not successful in getting it work with my GX7.  Then I tried my luck with modifying a Yongnuo RF-603C.  Still no luck. If I go ahead and by an Xpro-O will my issue be resolved?  Or do you have any other suggestion? Is there any settings to be changed in the camera for the trigger to work?  Please help me out.

Thanks in advance

Aaron801 wrote:

SameerKM wrote:

My recommendation would be to get the Xpro-O at $40 on sale from Adorama. I use this transmitter on my GX7 with a TT350o, TT685c, and two TT600s. I think it'll do what you want it to do.

Hello Kli,

While going through this post, I noticed that you have mentioned using the Xpro-O trigger with your GX7. You meant the Panasonic Lumix GX7, right?

I have been searching for a really long time to get a trigger for my GX7. I bought an X1T-O, but was not successful in getting it work with my GX7. Then I tried my luck with modifying a Yongnuo RF-603C. Still no luck. If I go ahead and by an Xpro-O will my issue be resolved? Or do you have any other suggestion? Is there any settings to be changed in the camera for the trigger to work? Please help me out.

Are you using that trigger with a Godox flash? I think that's the only way that you can get it to work and if you're doing that then you're likely either got the thing configured wrong or you've either got a defective trigger or defective flash. The two different triggers work pretty much the same except for the X-Pro model has a bigger, easier to use interface and maybe a few more advanced features. They do the same things though.

If you're really having issues I would start by seeing if you can't get the flash and trigger to work in manual mode and then you have to make that setting on both the flash and the trigger... Only when you have that working, try it in TTL mode...

Hey Aaron, thanks for the quick reply.

My setup is X1T-O on my GX7 with an X1R-N receiver. I haven't tried to trigger a wireless Godox flash directly yet. I have one with me and I will give it a try.

One other thing I noticed was that when the trigger is on my camera, I am not able to change the flash mode from TTL to Manual.  What am I doing wrong?

Thanks again

M_digicapt wrote:

Thanks. Where do place the off camera flash? Do you use modifiers?

I was trying not to butt in, but there is no hard-and-fast rule on where to place modifiers. There are many different positions for "established" flash looks, for example

https://www.sekonic.com/united-states/whatisyourspecialty/photographer/articles/the-five-basic-portrait-lighting-setups.aspx

but those can only be the start of your creative ideas.

Generally, start with what I started with, a pre-made 2 or 4 umbrella +  stands lighting kit for strobes.  Yes yes, some will poo-hoo on the equipment, telling you to spend more now you get products that are higher quality, but believe it or not I'm still using many of the same parts to this day, and indeed I still prefer the design of the "less expensive" light stand adapters that were in the kit versus the newer, "better" ones I've bought since.  Strobes don't need heavy duty stands anyway,  plus modest umbrellas are easier to use and pack, too.

SameerKM wrote:

My recommendation would be to get the Xpro-O at $40 on sale from Adorama. I use this transmitter on my GX7 with a TT350o, TT685c, and two TT600s. I think it'll do what you want it to do.

Hello Kli,

While going through this post, I noticed that you have mentioned using the Xpro-O trigger with your GX7. You meant the Panasonic Lumix GX7, right?

I have been searching for a really long time to get a trigger for my GX7. I bought an X1T-O, but was not successful in getting it work with my GX7. Then I tried my luck with modifying a Yongnuo RF-603C. Still no luck. If I go ahead and by an Xpro-O will my issue be resolved? Or do you have any other suggestion? Is there any settings to be changed in the camera for the trigger to work? Please help me out.

Thanks in advance

Oh snap!  I didn't test my XPro-O with my GX7 - you are absolutely right, Godox triggers don't work with the GX7! 😳😞

With v1.0 firmware the XPro-O works with the G9, even though that compatibility is not listed by Godox, but I could not get the XPro-O to work with the GX7.