My first sample images from new M50

Started 2 months ago | Photos
mirrorlessmahmood
mirrorlessmahmood New Member • Posts: 22
My first sample images from new M50
9

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Comment & critique:
Please provide me constructive critique and criticism.
Canon EOS M50 (EOS Kiss M)
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dpeete Regular Member • Posts: 384
Re: My first sample images from new M50

Small critique, but I'd check your leveling of the photos... the second picture appears to have a slant to it. It can be difficult with water representing the horizon, as the shoreline isn't necessary a straight line, but the roofs of the buildings in the foreground further show that there likely is an issue with the photo being level.

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Alastair Norcross Veteran Member • Posts: 6,655
Re: My first sample images from new M50
2

Apart from the leveling suggestion, I would also be careful with your apertures. The shot at F22 seems to be showing some diffraction. In general, with a crop sensor, I wouldn't go above F11. For landscapes with the 22, F8 is a good aperture. Focus on the distance, and you'll have everything from about ten feet to infinity in focus.

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noisephotographer Contributing Member • Posts: 972
Re: My first sample images from new M50

You forgot to mention that the photos have been edited. This could be misleading for new users.

mirrorlessmahmood
OP mirrorlessmahmood New Member • Posts: 22
Re: My first sample images from new M50

Thank you all for the feedback. I will bare that in mind next time. I will also stay ate that the pictures are edited.

 mirrorlessmahmood's gear list:mirrorlessmahmood's gear list
Panasonic G85 Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH Panasonic 12-60mm F3.5-5.6 OIS
Marco Nero
Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 6,268
Re: My first sample images from new M50
1

mirrorlessmahmood wrote:

It took me a moment to think of resting my cursor over the images to see which lens you used.  I assumed they'd been edited and I think very few images get posted here that are not.  But your images are vibrant and sharp.  You appear to have used a CPL filter in these shots, which makes the clouds punch out quite well... and cuts down of the chances of overexposing shots like the one of the dog - but I might be mistaken since you also chose very narrow apertures.  Opening this thread, the shot of the dog was the first one to jump out.  It's very sharp and vibrant... and even more so when enlarged.  It's well exposed. Colors may be slightly over-saturated (just barely... and I am indeed capable of doing the same when editing my own images).
.
I'm thinking you must be quite happy with the results.  I know that the 22mm is an amazing lens for the price, but the results are usually very good, even at wider apertures.  The 22mm f/2 lens is undoubtedly one of the best lenses Canon have made for the EOS M platform.   I was surprised to see some very narrow apertures selected in your shots.  I think that when I'm taking a landscape I might settle around f/7 but when shooting the city at night, I'll sometimes push it up between f/9 and f/11... yet some of yours were at f/10, f/13and even f/22.   But I can't argue with the results.  Your choice of settings seems to work well.
.
What are your own thoughts of the images you took with your new M50?  I imagine that you'd have to be pleased with the shots you took.  The M50 is a lot smaller than most APS-C sized DSLR cameras and that lens is lightweight and unobtrusive.  I imagine you must have been surprised when you first viewed your images.  I think they're just fine although I'd agree with other members that perhaps the 2nd shot ought to be rotated slightly to level the horizon.  Still, sometimes a tilted horizon can at to the character of a shot - though this one looks like it might benefit from a further edit.
.
I look forward to seeing more of your posts and especially shots from your camera.  It's shots like these that show us what the gear is capable of and can inspire others to obtain the same for their own use.  Thanks again for posting!

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

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mirrorlessmahmood
OP mirrorlessmahmood New Member • Posts: 22
Re: My first sample images from new M50

Marco Nero wrote:

mirrorlessmahmood wrote:

It took me a moment to think of resting my cursor over the images to see which lens you used. I assumed they'd been edited and I think very few images get posted here that are not. But your images are vibrant and sharp. You appear to have used a CPL filter in these shots, which makes the clouds punch out quite well... and cuts down of the chances of overexposing shots like the one of the dog - but I might be mistaken since you also chose very narrow apertures. Opening this thread, the shot of the dog was the first one to jump out. It's very sharp and vibrant... and even more so when enlarged. It's well exposed. Colors may be slightly over-saturated (just barely... and I am indeed capable of doing the same when editing my own images).
.
I'm thinking you must be quite happy with the results. I know that the 22mm is an amazing lens for the price, but the results are usually very good, even at wider apertures. The 22mm f/2 lens is undoubtedly one of the best lenses Canon have made for the EOS M platform. I was surprised to see some very narrow apertures selected in your shots. I think that when I'm taking a landscape I might settle around f/7 but when shooting the city at night, I'll sometimes push it up between f/9 and f/11... yet some of yours were at f/10, f/13and even f/22. But I can't argue with the results. Your choice of settings seems to work well.
.
What are your own thoughts of the images you took with your new M50? I imagine that you'd have to be pleased with the shots you took. The M50 is a lot smaller than most APS-C sized DSLR cameras and that lens is lightweight and unobtrusive. I imagine you must have been surprised when you first viewed your images. I think they're just fine although I'd agree with other members that perhaps the 2nd shot ought to be rotated slightly to level the horizon. Still, sometimes a tilted horizon can at to the character of a shot - though this one looks like it might benefit from a further edit.
.
I look forward to seeing more of your posts and especially shots from your camera. It's shots like these that show us what the gear is capable of and can inspire others to obtain the same for their own use. Thanks again for posting!

Thank you for taking the time to type all this up. I’m very happy with the camera and lens. Im a beginner photographer so these were my first proper shots with this camera.

if I’m totally honest I had no idea what I was doing with the apertures as I read for landscapes you need a narrow aperture which is why I chose the higher numbers like F22. I will take the feedback on board when it comes to shooting at f/7 next time. I’m still trying it learn how to shoot in full manual but I am happy with the camera. 
I also edit in Lightroom so I’m very happy with my progress so far. I’ve been thinking that I may have made the wrong choice to get the M50 and should have gone for the G90 from Panasonic. But that’s maybe due to catching the photography bug and wanting better cameras already!

 mirrorlessmahmood's gear list:mirrorlessmahmood's gear list
Panasonic G85 Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH Panasonic 12-60mm F3.5-5.6 OIS
Marco Nero
Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 6,268
Re: My first sample images from new M50
2

mirrorlessmahmood wrote:

Thank you for taking the time to type all this up. I’m very happy with the camera and lens. Im a beginner photographer so these were my first proper shots with this camera.

if I’m totally honest I had no idea what I was doing with the apertures as I read for landscapes you need a narrow aperture which is why I chose the higher numbers like F22. I will take the feedback on board when it comes to shooting at f/7 next time. I’m still trying it learn how to shoot in full manual but I am happy with the camera.
I also edit in Lightroom so I’m very happy with my progress so far. I’ve been thinking that I may have made the wrong choice to get the M50 and should have gone for the G90 from Panasonic. But that’s maybe due to catching the photography bug and wanting better cameras already!
.

My reply was just going to be a brief one but I was typing over a period of time whilst doing other things and rather than throw it out, I thought I'd post it regardless.

There's no way to have guessed you were new to photography. That might explain the tilted horizon in one of your shots! There's been a couple of occasions where I've looked closely at the old Panasonic processors but there was something about the color and the way that it rendered detail that didn't appeal to me as much as the Canon sensors and image processors do. The only time the Panasonic Venus Engine (Image processor) caught my eye was probably over 10 years ago. You can certainly mount a good number of Canon lenses to the M-series cameras - which is a major reason to consider them. I think that the M50 will more than likely be more enjoyable to use than the G90 and it will (arguably) offer better results in the long run. I also think that you'll like the colors and image quality from your Canon M50 more.
.
If you are editing in Lightroom, you should be able to achieve excellent results with lighting shadows and tweaking colors, noise reduction and sharpening. I tend to make those adjustments in Lightroom myself and then resize and touch up in PS before saving... although you ought to be able to do those in LR as well.
.
If I had the chance to go back and buy any camera for the first time, I'd likely buy another M-series (preferably one with the new DPAF sensor. There's very little that these amazing cameras can't capture.
.
If you're still getting used to your camera, may I suggest that for landscapes you try using P mode occasionally... even if you just use it to start off with. I used to carry all my cameras in P mode for years. The camera will determine which aperture is suitable and which shutter speed is best for the scene and the Canon DiGiC processor will kick in as well by comparing its own data with what it thinks you are trying to photograph. It's very much like Auto mode but it allows for the retaining of some settings that Auto does not. Just keep an eye on your ISO setting or switch it to Auto ISO. You were correct when you read that smaller apertures result in sharper images... but the smaller the aperture gets, the more likely the chances of "diffraction" occurring. So when you get past certain aperture numbers (each lens is different), the image begins to suffer from softening and optical aberrations... instead of getting sharper. You may not notice it with bright daylight shots but you will likely see the effect in dusk and night shots.
.
When I hand my camera to someone else, I will often switch it to Auto just to make everything easier for them. But since this is your camera, Just try P-mode for landscapes and cityscapes for a start and then take another shot with M-mode using your own preference of settings. Compare them later to see which ones you like most.. As you compare your images later, you may find that you don't need to use a small aperture to capture your details. f/5.6 tends to be extremely sharp with this lens but you can always go even smaller. However, I think that diffraction starts to occur at f/16 and that will have an effect on the sharpness of your shots. I made the mistake of trying to do a long exposure just after sunset and cranked the aperture up as small as it would go... resulting in a softer image due to the effects of diffraction. This was with the original M camera. The sky was too light and I had no filter to cut down on the brightness... hence my mistake in using a really small aperture.
.
As you get more confident, you may find that adjusting the shutter speed (Tv Mode) will allow the wider aperture for soft background when you push the shutter speed high enough. Of you can experiment with Av Mode (Aperture) to specifically control your background defocus or to allow maximum light. You can probably hold off on full Manual Mode (M-mode) unless you're trying to shoot something very challenging.
.
I don't tend to shoot in Full Manual unless I really need to control all the aspects of the exposure. Occasions when I would use M-Mode would definitely include Astro-photography (which this lens is excellent for - especially at f/2.2) and when shooting a product or an important photograph for a client. If I'm in a well lit environment I used to just leave my cameras in P-Mode although these days I tend to carry my cameras using Tv Mode ... just to control the shutter speed.
.
This EF-M 22mm f/2 STM lens is extremely bright at f/2. And at f/2 it has a very shallow Depth of Field (DOF) compared to other lenses. This means that with a wide aperture of f/2, objects close to the lens are quite sharp and the backgrounds are soft and out of focus. In the case of this lens, the shallow DOF is fairly subtle but it's still quite beautiful in the way that it renders this effect. With this lens the effect is mostly noticeable with portraits and closeups. However, if you are trying to shoot soft backgrounds in bright sunlight, you will need to use an ND filter or a CPL filter to cut down on the light...otherwise your shot will be slightly overexposed. You can always use a smaller aperture but then you'll lose the soft background effect (if that's what you were looking to achieve). The example of your Dog shot is one that looked excellent with the settings you chose... but you could have used a wide aperture (f/2) and this would have blurred the people behind the dog... along with the background. Not too much but enough to make the dog stand out from the background. Again, I think you made the right choice with your settings for that shot.
.
This is a well featured digital camera so there's plenty of room to have fun and experiment with your gear. Take your time to check out some of the features that are hidden in the menu so you know how to find them if you need them (eg self timer, white balance etc).
.
I'm a JPEG shooter but this lens (22mm) on the EOS M is a great match and the in-camera lens settings should activate in JPEG mode. I did slam mine in a car door which put a tiny dent in the side of my lens barrel so be aware that the shell on the outside is a fairly thin metal. It's robust though. Whilst I own an M6, our cameras share the same sensor. And I've seen some amazing shots here from other members with the M50. Since the results will be much the same, you could just look at posts and galleries by other members with this lens. That should give you a good idea of what people can capture with it. It was the members here who convinced me to buy this lens for my own use (I was using EF lenses with the optional adapter) and it was great advice. The members here are generally very helpful and can post examples if you ask them to. The 22mm lens is also fairly good for stitching multiple images together to form panoramas - because there's not too much distortion with this field of view.
.
Anyway, it's late and the sun's about to rise again. I have to go. Good luck with your new camera. There's quite a few professional photographers who use the EOS M cameras for their work because the image quality is so good and they are reliable and small enough to travel with. I think that the M50 will have all the key (and essential) features of the Panasonic that you were comparing it to. The M50 has higher resolution due to the larger sensor and it's also much lighter. Both have full manual control too. So the M50, with the new DiGiC 8 processor, is definitely the choice I would have made between the two.  And it's a very popular camera right now as well.
.
All the best!

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

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mirrorlessmahmood
OP mirrorlessmahmood New Member • Posts: 22
Re: My first sample images from new M50

Marco Nero wrote:

mirrorlessmahmood wrote:

Thank you for taking the time to type all this up. I’m very happy with the camera and lens. Im a beginner photographer so these were my first proper shots with this camera.

if I’m totally honest I had no idea what I was doing with the apertures as I read for landscapes you need a narrow aperture which is why I chose the higher numbers like F22. I will take the feedback on board when it comes to shooting at f/7 next time. I’m still trying it learn how to shoot in full manual but I am happy with the camera.
I also edit in Lightroom so I’m very happy with my progress so far. I’ve been thinking that I may have made the wrong choice to get the M50 and should have gone for the G90 from Panasonic. But that’s maybe due to catching the photography bug and wanting better cameras already!
.

My reply was just going to be a brief one but I was typing over a period of time whilst doing other things and rather than throw it out, I thought I'd post it regardless.

There's no way to have guessed you were new to photography. That might explain the tilted horizon in one of your shots! There's been a couple of occasions where I've looked closely at the old Panasonic processors but there was something about the color and the way that it rendered detail that didn't appeal to me as much as the Canon sensors and image processors do. The only time the Panasonic Venus Engine (Image processor) caught my eye was probably over 10 years ago. You can certainly mount a good number of Canon lenses to the M-series cameras - which is a major reason to consider them. I think that the M50 will more than likely be more enjoyable to use than the G90 and it will (arguably) offer better results in the long run. I also think that you'll like the colors and image quality from your Canon M50 more.
.
If you are editing in Lightroom, you should be able to achieve excellent results with lighting shadows and tweaking colors, noise reduction and sharpening. I tend to make those adjustments in Lightroom myself and then resize and touch up in PS before saving... although you ought to be able to do those in LR as well.
.
If I had the chance to go back and buy any camera for the first time, I'd likely buy another M-series (preferably one with the new DPAF sensor. There's very little that these amazing cameras can't capture.
.
If you're still getting used to your camera, may I suggest that for landscapes you try using P mode occasionally... even if you just use it to start off with. I used to carry all my cameras in P mode for years. The camera will determine which aperture is suitable and which shutter speed is best for the scene and the Canon DiGiC processor will kick in as well by comparing its own data with what it thinks you are trying to photograph. It's very much like Auto mode but it allows for the retaining of some settings that Auto does not. Just keep an eye on your ISO setting or switch it to Auto ISO. You were correct when you read that smaller apertures result in sharper images... but the smaller the aperture gets, the more likely the chances of "diffraction" occurring. So when you get past certain aperture numbers (each lens is different), the image begins to suffer from softening and optical aberrations... instead of getting sharper. You may not notice it with bright daylight shots but you will likely see the effect in dusk and night shots.
.
When I hand my camera to someone else, I will often switch it to Auto just to make everything easier for them. But since this is your camera, Just try P-mode for landscapes and cityscapes for a start and then take another shot with M-mode using your own preference of settings. Compare them later to see which ones you like most.. As you compare your images later, you may find that you don't need to use a small aperture to capture your details. f/5.6 tends to be extremely sharp with this lens but you can always go even smaller. However, I think that diffraction starts to occur at f/16 and that will have an effect on the sharpness of your shots. I made the mistake of trying to do a long exposure just after sunset and cranked the aperture up as small as it would go... resulting in a softer image due to the effects of diffraction. This was with the original M camera. The sky was too light and I had no filter to cut down on the brightness... hence my mistake in using a really small aperture.
.
As you get more confident, you may find that adjusting the shutter speed (Tv Mode) will allow the wider aperture for soft background when you push the shutter speed high enough. Of you can experiment with Av Mode (Aperture) to specifically control your background defocus or to allow maximum light. You can probably hold off on full Manual Mode (M-mode) unless you're trying to shoot something very challenging.
.
I don't tend to shoot in Full Manual unless I really need to control all the aspects of the exposure. Occasions when I would use M-Mode would definitely include Astro-photography (which this lens is excellent for - especially at f/2.2) and when shooting a product or an important photograph for a client. If I'm in a well lit environment I used to just leave my cameras in P-Mode although these days I tend to carry my cameras using Tv Mode ... just to control the shutter speed.
.
This EF-M 22mm f/2 STM lens is extremely bright at f/2. And at f/2 it has a very shallow Depth of Field (DOF) compared to other lenses. This means that with a wide aperture of f/2, objects close to the lens are quite sharp and the backgrounds are soft and out of focus. In the case of this lens, the shallow DOF is fairly subtle but it's still quite beautiful in the way that it renders this effect. With this lens the effect is mostly noticeable with portraits and closeups. However, if you are trying to shoot soft backgrounds in bright sunlight, you will need to use an ND filter or a CPL filter to cut down on the light...otherwise your shot will be slightly overexposed. You can always use a smaller aperture but then you'll lose the soft background effect (if that's what you were looking to achieve). The example of your Dog shot is one that looked excellent with the settings you chose... but you could have used a wide aperture (f/2) and this would have blurred the people behind the dog... along with the background. Not too much but enough to make the dog stand out from the background. Again, I think you made the right choice with your settings for that shot.
.
This is a well featured digital camera so there's plenty of room to have fun and experiment with your gear. Take your time to check out some of the features that are hidden in the menu so you know how to find them if you need them (eg self timer, white balance etc).
.
I'm a JPEG shooter but this lens (22mm) on the EOS M is a great match and the in-camera lens settings should activate in JPEG mode. I did slam mine in a car door which put a tiny dent in the side of my lens barrel so be aware that the shell on the outside is a fairly thin metal. It's robust though. Whilst I own an M6, our cameras share the same sensor. And I've seen some amazing shots here from other members with the M50. Since the results will be much the same, you could just look at posts and galleries by other members with this lens. That should give you a good idea of what people can capture with it. It was the members here who convinced me to buy this lens for my own use (I was using EF lenses with the optional adapter) and it was great advice. The members here are generally very helpful and can post examples if you ask them to. The 22mm lens is also fairly good for stitching multiple images together to form panoramas - because there's not too much distortion with this field of view.
.
Anyway, it's late and the sun's about to rise again. I have to go. Good luck with your new camera. There's quite a few professional photographers who use the EOS M cameras for their work because the image quality is so good and they are reliable and small enough to travel with. I think that the M50 will have all the key (and essential) features of the Panasonic that you were comparing it to. The M50 has higher resolution due to the larger sensor and it's also much lighter. Both have full manual control too. So the M50, with the new DiGiC 8 processor, is definitely the choice I would have made between the two. And it's a very popular camera right now as well.
.
All the best!

Thank you very much for the reply. I will take all this feedback on board.

I have taken more landscape shots that I have no posted yet but have edited them and will post them now.

 mirrorlessmahmood's gear list:mirrorlessmahmood's gear list
Panasonic G85 Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH Panasonic 12-60mm F3.5-5.6 OIS
mirrorlessmahmood
OP mirrorlessmahmood New Member • Posts: 22
Re: My first sample images from new M50
2

 mirrorlessmahmood's gear list:mirrorlessmahmood's gear list
Panasonic G85 Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH Panasonic 12-60mm F3.5-5.6 OIS
Hclarkx Regular Member • Posts: 420
Re: My first sample images from new M50
1

mirrorlessmahmood wrote:

I like the first one.   Has a moodiness to it.   I notice you used f2 in the second shot while I'm not sure that the resulting shallow depth of field is appropriate for it or what you wanted.  Tell me if I'm wrong and you were "shooting for shallow DOF."  If you focused on the tree and used F2, then the buildings to the rear would be less well focused and the planter to the right in the foreground also a bit out of focus.   A fairly wide lens like this 22mm lens is fairly forgiving of longer shutter times.  The rule is stay above the inverse of the focal length.  That would be 1/22  in this case.  So maybe 1/30 or 1/50 would work if you hands are steady.   With image stabilization which the 22mm does not have one can go even lower.

There is not a huge difference in distance between the near planter and the far buildings in this image so you don't need F7 or F11 to get really high DOF, but using maybe F5.6 would have given you good focus over the whole range of distances in the image without going very short on the exposure time.   The bottom line is, if you want good focus throughout an image like this, you want to push the aperture up until the speed gets down close to the limit of your hands.  In this case, raise the aperture maybe 3 stops (to F5.6) and lower the shutter three stops (to 1/150 second).   This shutter speed is well above that required for most hands.

You mentioned a goal of shooting in manual mode.  That takes a great deal of experience.  It's a great goal, but isn't necessary to get optimum images from the M50.  Program mode is only one step away from manual and a whole lot more convenient to use.  I stick with Aperture priority because I do landscape.  I keep ISO at 100 unless I need to raise it to ensure a shutter time that accommodates my old shaky hands.  I don't shoot at night or very early in the a.m. so rarely have to push the ISO up much to stay well above that 1/focal length rule of thumb.  And, of course, under these conditions I'm usually in the F/5.6 to F/7 or F/8 range.

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mirrorlessmahmood
OP mirrorlessmahmood New Member • Posts: 22
Re: My first sample images from new M50
1

Hclarkx wrote:

mirrorlessmahmood wrote:

I like the first one. Has a moodiness to it. I notice you used f2 in the second shot while I'm not sure that the resulting shallow depth of field is appropriate for it or what you wanted. Tell me if I'm wrong and you were "shooting for shallow DOF." If you focused on the tree and used F2, then the buildings to the rear would be less well focused and the planter to the right in the foreground also a bit out of focus. A fairly wide lens like this 22mm lens is fairly forgiving of longer shutter times. The rule is stay above the inverse of the focal length. That would be 1/22 in this case. So maybe 1/30 or 1/50 would work if you hands are steady. With image stabilization which the 22mm does not have one can go even lower.

There is not a huge difference in distance between the near planter and the far buildings in this image so you don't need F7 or F11 to get really high DOF, but using maybe F5.6 would have given you good focus over the whole range of distances in the image without going very short on the exposure time. The bottom line is, if you want good focus throughout an image like this, you want to push the aperture up until the speed gets down close to the limit of your hands. In this case, raise the aperture maybe 3 stops (to F5.6) and lower the shutter three stops (to 1/150 second). This shutter speed is well above that required for most hands.

You mentioned a goal of shooting in manual mode. That takes a great deal of experience. It's a great goal, but isn't necessary to get optimum images from the M50. Program mode is only one step away from manual and a whole lot more convenient to use. I stick with Aperture priority because I do landscape. I keep ISO at 100 unless I need to raise it to ensure a shutter time that accommodates my old shaky hands. I don't shoot at night or very early in the a.m. so rarely have to push the ISO up much to stay well above that 1/focal length rule of thumb. And, of course, under these conditions I'm usually in the F/5.6 to F/7 or F/8 range.

Thank you for your comment. If I am honest with you I had no idea what I was doing it was the first time shooting with the camera during my travels so I did not know which aperture was correct for the picture. I think I should stick to AV mode until I get more experienced.

 mirrorlessmahmood's gear list:mirrorlessmahmood's gear list
Panasonic G85 Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH Panasonic 12-60mm F3.5-5.6 OIS
Hclarkx Regular Member • Posts: 420
Re: My first sample images from new M50

Thank you for your comment. If I am honest with you I had no idea what I was doing it was the first time shooting with the camera during my travels so I did not know which aperture was correct for the picture. I think I should stick to AV mode until I get more experienced.

We were all there once.  I tried to cover some of the DOF issues but there are much better articles available.   I suggest a search of Youtube.com for photography lessons.  There are some good photographers that have produced a series of lessons, each covering some aspect such as DOF.   Adorama sponsors a fellow that I followed for a while.  I think you can access his video lessons via Adorama.com.  B&H Photo also might sponsor some video lessons.  Video lessons are better than books in that you see the scene and then see the image that results with an explanation.  And they are free.

Yes, using Ap lets you keep aperture in a reasonable zone and only go high or low or out of that zone if there's a good reason to do so.  I gravitated to Ap mode early on and still use Ap exclusively.  I think a lot of photographers do.  Very few shoot manual.  My daughter shoots manual, but she's a pro photographer and uses it because she takes photos of people with a setting sun behind them (this is her style).  She has no choice but to use manual to get the nuances that she wants (spot metering can get close but won't get the right exposure balance between the subject and the setting sun behind them.  Yes, there is flare in her photos but it's controlled and is part of her style.  For most of us it's Aperture priority for depth of field control (and avoid diffraction) or Shutter priority to deal with low light or moving subjects.

BTW, probably all of the instructional videos you will find are done with a full frame camera.  There are some differences between full frame and APS-C that we use.  The two most significant ones I can think of are that with APS-C we don't need to go to such a small aperture to get good depth of field (where a full frame might shoot a landscape at F11 we would use F7.  Also, full frame will provide shallower DOF than we can achieve.  For instance, a full frame shooter might use F2 to make a well focused face 10 feet from the camera with a nicely blurred background 100 feet behind that face.  We can shoot F2 for this purpose as well, but we won't get as much background blur.

Good luck with the lessons.  They have you enjoying photography in short order.

 Hclarkx's gear list:Hclarkx's gear list
Canon EOS M5 Canon EF-M 22mm f/2 STM Canon EF-M 11-22mm f/4-5.6 IS STM Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Canon EF-M 15-45mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM +3 more
mirrorlessmahmood
OP mirrorlessmahmood New Member • Posts: 22
Re: My first sample images from new M50

Hclarkx wrote:

Thank you for your comment. If I am honest with you I had no idea what I was doing it was the first time shooting with the camera during my travels so I did not know which aperture was correct for the picture. I think I should stick to AV mode until I get more experienced.

We were all there once. I tried to cover some of the DOF issues but there are much better articles available. I suggest a search of Youtube.com for photography lessons. There are some good photographers that have produced a series of lessons, each covering some aspect such as DOF. Adorama sponsors a fellow that I followed for a while. I think you can access his video lessons via Adorama.com. B&H Photo also might sponsor some video lessons. Video lessons are better than books in that you see the scene and then see the image that results with an explanation. And they are free.

Yes, using Ap lets you keep aperture in a reasonable zone and only go high or low or out of that zone if there's a good reason to do so. I gravitated to Ap mode early on and still use Ap exclusively. I think a lot of photographers do. Very few shoot manual. My daughter shoots manual, but she's a pro photographer and uses it because she takes photos of people with a setting sun behind them (this is her style). She has no choice but to use manual to get the nuances that she wants (spot metering can get close but won't get the right exposure balance between the subject and the setting sun behind them. Yes, there is flare in her photos but it's controlled and is part of her style. For most of us it's Aperture priority for depth of field control (and avoid diffraction) or Shutter priority to deal with low light or moving subjects.

BTW, probably all of the instructional videos you will find are done with a full frame camera. There are some differences between full frame and APS-C that we use. The two most significant ones I can think of are that with APS-C we don't need to go to such a small aperture to get good depth of field (where a full frame might shoot a landscape at F11 we would use F7. Also, full frame will provide shallower DOF than we can achieve. For instance, a full frame shooter might use F2 to make a well focused face 10 feet from the camera with a nicely blurred background 100 feet behind that face. We can shoot F2 for this purpose as well, but we won't get as much background blur.

Good luck with the lessons. They have you enjoying photography in short order.

Thank you for the reply. This confirms why I was using high F numbers then and why I need to keep them lower. 
i will take the feedback on board thank you.

 mirrorlessmahmood's gear list:mirrorlessmahmood's gear list
Panasonic G85 Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH Panasonic 12-60mm F3.5-5.6 OIS
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