HDR on the M5 and M6

Can you get separate images to post process to produce HDR or is the processing/combining done in camera ?

If you can get the individual exposures, are they just jpg or can you get RAW ?

Thanks,

mangurian wrote:

Can you get separate images to post process to produce HDR or is the processing/combining done in camera ?

If you can get the individual exposures, are they just jpg or can you get RAW ?

Thanks,

As others have noted, you can use the in-Camera HDR setting (available via the Command Dial on the top of the camera) or you can take bracketed (3x) images to process later on your computer.  The in-camera HDR will not save as a TIFF or RAW (to the best of my knowledge) and the image is always flattened in-camera.  But the quality of the JPEGS (see below) are exceptionally detailed. 
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The in-camera HDR results in fairly believable looking images that often don't look overly processed.  For best results you ought to use a tripod.  However, it's also possible in to hand-hold the cameras (especially the more recent models) in moderate lighting.  I don't often shoot with HDR but I have two samples from the M6 below and one from the original EOSM for comparison.
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Using Bracketing you can capture three different images to edit yourself later.  You can also change the values of the exposure.  This enables you to shoot several different 3x shot-sets which will have a considerable variance of exposure.  You might take four such bracketed exposures, each consisting of three separate images of varying levels of exposure.  You could then enter those shots into your computer to edit with even more control.
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EOS M6 + 11-22mm lens - in-camera HDR used. The big dish here was almost in silhouette.

EOS M6 + 11-22mm lens - in-camera HDR used. This valley was literally in shadow.

Original EOS M + 28mm Macro lens - looking a little more artificial (in-camera HDR)

Keep in mind that you can bias the Bracketed Array by setting the Exposure Compensation to +/- some value.  I usually set up in Manual Mode (on a tripod) so I can adjust for a regular exposure, and then add a stop to determine if I really want the full stop, or perhaps more.  Usually it's a 1/3 less.

When you're out somewhere distant and really want a great shot follow Marco's advice and shoot multiple Brackets using different settings.  Tomorrow will be the first time for me shooting Brackets with the M50.  Everything is in flower.  Maybe I'll follow up on this later.

Waldemar wrote:

HDR with only +/- 1 EV is unnecessary with these sensors. In high-contrast situations you can underexpose by 1 or - with low ISOs - even 3 EV and "save" the pic in RAW or even make it look like HDR.

For night shots with high ISO that might be different, as you can´t pull up shadows much without getting excessive noise. But for normal ISOs up to 800 you don´t need the built-in HDR function at all.

Anyway, for a truly usable built-in HDR function you need control of the spread and of the exposure compensation, like the Sonys have it since the ancient a500.

Like my 10D and my Powershot G1?

Most cameras have 11 stops or less DR.  Adding two more can be helpful in generating a natural look.

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Waldemar
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