Compare pictures from SX50, SX60, SX70 (my way)..

..also, the "iso" for the pictures was chosen by the camera's, as they were shot using the Program Mode..

..albeit, the "Rate of Change" (as been mentioned previously) for both the SX50 & SX60 was set to "fast", and maybe if set to "standard" would be better..

..and to note that the SX70 does not have this "Rate of Change" setting (as been mentioned previously)..

..but this also shows the "behaviors" for each of the camera's workings..

..and I think it's very interesting to notice..

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

Steen Bay wrote:

jshen808 wrote:

..also, the "iso" for the pictures was chosen by the camera's, as they were shot using the Program Mode..

P mode can't be blamed here, but Auto ISO can. Guess that Auto ISO can be useful if in a hurry, but I have never used it. It'll often choose a higher ISO than necessary in the situation, resulting in more noisy images (and/or less detail because the camera will use more NR at higher ISOs).

Anyway, thanks for posting the comparison. Very interesting.

..albeit, the "Rate of Change" (as been mentioned previously) for both the SX50 & SX60 was set to "fast", and maybe if set to "standard" would be better..

..and to note that the SX70 does not have this "Rate of Change" setting (as been mentioned previously)..

..but this also shows the "behaviors" for each of the camera's workings..

..and I think it's very interesting to notice..

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

The one thing you can trust Auto ISO to do, is to raise the setting higher than you'd want, for the best quality. I always manually set the ISO to 100 in P mode and very sparingly raise it, when the light gets dim and never above 200 for photos, with a small-sensored superzoom camera. If ISO 200 won't do it, then it's time for a multi-exposure, low-light mode.

Video is an entirely different thing for ISO. In dimming evening light, ISO 400 is often necessary or even a bit higher in a few cases. Sometimes, Auto ISO is best for video in dim light, as if you pan across a changing level of light, a locked manual setting won't give a steady result. A wide or multi-point metering setting for video is often needed, as panning with spot or center metering will cause disruptive fluctuations in brightness. A white or yellow car going by, will also cause fluctuations in spot or center metering.

OpticGlass wrote:

Love "user" images!
Thanks jshen808!

jshen808 wrote:

..First of all, these are not studio testings..

..sure, the pictures taken could be better..

..want better, can do the comparisons yourself..

..since photography is my hobby, it's for fun, and I do it "my way"..

..all pictures are hand-held, so it's not perfectly straight, sooc jpegs..

..and all the cameras are using the Hoya HD3 UV lens filter..

1. SX50..

..settings used: Program Mode, DR Correction (Auto), Noise Reduction (Standard), (Custom Colour) Sharpening (+1) [default is +2]..

..SX50, sooc jpeg..

2. SX60..

..settings used: Program Mode, DR Correction (Auto), Shadow Correction (Auto), Noise Reduction (Standard), (Custom Colour) Sharpening (+1) [default is +2], Image Size (Large, Superfine)..

..SX60, sooc jpeg..

3. SX70..

..settings used: Program Mode, Auto Light Optimizer (Standard), (Standard Colour) Sharpening (+3) [default is +4], Contrast (+1) [default is +0], Image Size (Large, Superfine)..

..SX70, sooc jpeg..

..thanks for viewing..

..Cheers..

..Thanks very much, OpticGlass!

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

Steen Bay wrote:

jshen808 wrote:

..also, the "iso" for the pictures was chosen by the camera's, as they were shot using the Program Mode..

P mode can't be blamed here, but Auto ISO can. Guess that Auto ISO can be useful if in a hurry, but I have never used it. It'll often choose a higher ISO than necessary in the situation, resulting in more noisy images (and/or less detail because the camera will use more NR at higher ISOs).

Anyway, thanks for posting the comparison. Very interesting.

..albeit, the "Rate of Change" (as been mentioned previously) for both the SX50 & SX60 was set to "fast", and maybe if set to "standard" would be better..

..and to note that the SX70 does not have this "Rate of Change" setting (as been mentioned previously)..

..but this also shows the "behaviors" for each of the camera's workings..

..and I think it's very interesting to notice..

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

..What you say certainly makes sense, Steen Bay!

..but the "higher iso" in this comparison, is no more than iso360, which to me isn't too bad..

..thanks for commenting on this, there's always ways to improve on any testings..

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

Stephen McDonald wrote:

Steen Bay wrote:

jshen808 wrote:

..also, the "iso" for the pictures was chosen by the camera's, as they were shot using the Program Mode..

P mode can't be blamed here, but Auto ISO can. Guess that Auto ISO can be useful if in a hurry, but I have never used it. It'll often choose a higher ISO than necessary in the situation, resulting in more noisy images (and/or less detail because the camera will use more NR at higher ISOs).

Anyway, thanks for posting the comparison. Very interesting.

..albeit, the "Rate of Change" (as been mentioned previously) for both the SX50 & SX60 was set to "fast", and maybe if set to "standard" would be better..

..and to note that the SX70 does not have this "Rate of Change" setting (as been mentioned previously)..

..but this also shows the "behaviors" for each of the camera's workings..

..and I think it's very interesting to notice..

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

The one thing you can trust Auto ISO to do, is to raise the setting higher than you'd want, for the best quality. I always manually set the ISO to 100 in P mode and very sparingly raise it, when the light gets dim and never above 200 for photos, with a small-sensored superzoom camera. If ISO 200 won't do it, then it's time for a multi-exposure, low-light mode.

Video is an entirely different thing for ISO. In dimming evening light, ISO 400 is often necessary or even a bit higher in a few cases. Sometimes, Auto ISO is best for video in dim light, as if you pan across a changing level of light, a locked manual setting won't give a steady result. A wide or multi-point metering setting for video is often needed, as panning with spot or center metering will cause disruptive fluctuations in brightness. A white or yellow car going by, will also cause fluctuations in spot or center metering.

..There are many with the same school of thought as you about using iso100, and I can certainly understand the reasonings..

..however, I do like the convenience of using Auto ISO for general photos.. but I use fixed iso too, depending on situations..

..thanks for commenting on this..

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

Was it hazy outside? Background looks some kind of foggy. To the eye without pixel peeping, I cannot see the difference!

benjilafouine wrote:

Was it hazy outside? Background looks some kind of foggy. To the eye without pixel peeping, I cannot see the difference!

..Yes, it was later in the afternoon, and was drizzling near the mountains..

..and yes, they do appear to be very similar..

..thanks for commenting on this..

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

ANAYV wrote:

jshen808 wrote:

..some thoughts..

..previously I mentioned that both the SX50 & SX60 seems to have similar (EVF) viewfinder, and that was mistaken..

..the SX60 viewfinder is noticeably better than the SX50, and the SX70 viewfinder is noticeably better than the SX60..

My thoughts on the EVF (only experience with SX50)

SX50 terrible...SX60 usable..SX70 pretty good. (going by specs )

..the viewfinder of the SX70 is really nice, and is easier on the eye..

..also to mention, both the SX50 & SX60 has the feature in the Auto ISO Setting "Rate of Change" (which is not offered in the SX70)..

Do the SX60/70 have auto ISO with control of minimum shutter speed?

That would be nice.

I use it on D-SLR's now..very useful feature...you set the max ISO and minimum shutter speed. Camera obeys and works within those limits and if lighting is too low, the shutter speeds drops. ISO stays at max setting.

..the settings offered for the "Rate of Change" are (Slow, Standard, Fast)..

..and I had it set on "Fast", which may have caused the ISO in the SX50 & SX60 images to be more slightly higher..

..now I have set both cameras to (Standard)..

..another thing to mention, I find with all three cameras (SX50, SX60, SX70), to set the Sharpening setting back one notch, helps prevent the pictures from looking over sharpened..

I notice this also, with 1/2.3" sensors. Some feel the manufacturers know best and set camera up the best.

I found this not to be so, and if one wants to edit/process the jpegs, then setting sharpening and NR low will allow for better results when 'baking' the jpegs again in Post.

..and to my eyes, the images looks better..

I agree.

..and to reduce the sharpening, can also help curb the image noises..

Indeed!

..just some thoughts to share..

Thanks for sharing images and your thoughts on these three camera's, jshen808!

Was waiting for this

..happy shooting everyone,

Same to you!

..Cheers..

Peace

ANAYV

..Thanks for commenting and sharing your thoughts, ANAYV!

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..

The SX70 and (to a lesser extent) the SX60 have a lot of CA. The SX50 handles CA a lot better. That said, the SX70 does have better detail and similar noise which is nice considering the decent bump in resolution. I'd have to process the RAWs to see how CA affects image quality.

Canasonic wrote:

The SX70 and (to a lesser extent) the SX60 have a lot of CA. The SX50 handles CA a lot better. That said, the SX70 does have better detail and similar noise which is nice considering the decent bump in resolution. I'd have to process the RAWs to see how CA affects image quality.

..Thanks for commenting and sharing your thoughts, Canasonic!

..happy shooting my friend,

..Cheers..