Fuji real 3D

Hello,

Finally got my Finepix real 3D . My questions:

1) After taking images - do I need to process them with the 3D software ( forgot the name) then load them  into The Computer ( LR) ?

My goal is to project Them on a Larger screen ...

2) what kind of glasses do I need ?

ps. Looking for extra battery and charger ( put this on the Fuji forum )

Thanks for your help .

I think the answer to both your questions depends largely on what it is you're going to use to do the projecting!

If you're going to use a DLP-type projector, then those that run Android will have the ability to use the files directly out of the camera by using a third-party app like 3DSteroid Pro which is available on the Google Play store. For such projectors, you'll need DLP glasses.

Personally, I have both the FujiFilm Real 3d Viewer - which I got from eBay and also a fairly cheap Android phone that has a glasses-free 3D display; there's a thread about it in the 3D and Stereo group on dpreview that convinced me to try one and I must say it's very good. You can see that thread here.

Hope this helps...

Finally got my Finepix real 3D . My questions:

Congrats! It's a fun little camera.

1) After taking images - do I need to process them with the 3D software ( forgot the name) then load them into The Computer ( LR) ?

You should definitely process your photos using StereoPhoto Maker (SPM) to align your images. No 3D camera, including the W3 gets this perfect on its own. SPM will even automatically set the "stereo window " for you.

My goal is to project Them on a Larger screen ...

To get started, I highly recommend this guide . Unfortunately over the years people have been exposed to bad projected 3D. This guide will help you avoid common mistakes and ensure your audience will always be able to comfortably view your 3D images.

2) what kind of glasses do I need ?

That depends entirely upon how you are going to project.  Do you have a 3D capable digital video projector?

ps. Looking for extra battery and charger ( put this on the Fuji forum )

Easily found on Amazon and eBay.  The 3rd party batteries can be a mixed bag.  You will also want a fair number of batteries -- the W3 tears through them pretty quick because IMHO they are too small for the camera.  The camera also doesn't give you a lot of warning before the battery is about to die.  When it starts complaining about the battery, saying it is half full, don't believe it.  The battery will be empty after only a few more shots.

Thanks for your help .

Thank you very much Bill, for the super beneficial info.

Extra batteries and chargers can be found on Amazon, eBay, or other fine "camera stores"...

The battery model/type can be found in the manual (NP-50, I believe).

Be aware that aftermarket batteries may not perform as well as OEM batteries. And DO NOT STORE a non-OEM battery in the camera. If it deteriorates and swells (bulges), it can be VERY difficult to remove.

Sorry to be late in replaying...

I've had my Fuji Real 3D camera for a few years, and if I want to see my images at a large size, I use an HDMI cable and view them on my 50" Panasonic 3D TV - bought around 6 years ago, when 3D was still offered by many TV models.  This can be a sensational experience - particularly if I modify the apparent separation via the control on top of the camera.  Occasionally the effect can be quite worrying with "objects" very close to my eyes - rather than on the screen, several feet away.

I also had a few of my images printed on lenticular paper by Fuji UK at their labs in Bedford, UK.  That service was withdrawn a few years ago.

(For 3D slides projection, I have a pair of Carousel projectors complete with polarised filters, spectacles and suitable screen.)

Thank you . My goal is to project the images from a computer (Lightroom) vía a 3D projector into a large screen ...??

Thank you . My goal is to project the images from a computer (Lightroom) vía a 3D projector into a large screen ...??

The pics straight out of the camera always need some alignment adjustments.  So if you are going to project, you definitely want to correct the alignment and set the stereo window.  StereoPhoto Maker can do that automatically.  It also has a built in slide show feature and can send the images to your projector in whatever 3D format is required.

The one s3D slideshow feature I would love to see in a program is what the Fuji has built-in, it can display the image in 2D and then do a dissolve to 3D.  It is a wonderful effect, especially for photos that look so-so in 2D, but really pop in 3D.

Bill Costa wrote:

The one s3D slideshow feature I would love to see in a program is what the Fuji has built-in, it can display the image in 2D and then do a dissolve to 3D. It is a wonderful effect, especially for photos that look so-so in 2D, but really pop in 3D.

I agree it's a useful effect which yields an animated comparison of the 2D and 3D versions of the scene.
One way to implement it in software is to create two stereo pair images. The first displays one eye's view of the scene in both left eye and the right eye's perspective in the image, yielding a 2D view of the scene but in 3D image format. The second image is the actual 3D depiction of the scene, using both the left eye and right eye's views.
I then use a slide show creation program that displays both of the images in sequence, with the first 2D image dissolving into the second 3D image. The slide show is then saved to my computer as a video in mp4 format.
To display the file I send it to my cellphone and use an app that displays the video with the app's "looping" function turned on so the video animation runs continuously. I have a version of "Google Cardboard" which is a very inexpensive stereoscopic viewer. The user inserts their cellphone into the viewer and the viewer's lenses will present a sharp stereoscopic view of the video animation that is running on the cellphone.

One way to implement [2D to 3D dissolve] ... is to create two stereo pair images. The first displays one eye's view of the scene ... The second image is the actual 3D depiction of the scene

Nice hack.  Thanks for suggesting it.