Canon Rebel T3 questions

Greetings all!

Posted this on the SLR lens forum but no responses in a day suggests that maybe it is better here. Mods may delete the other one of they so choose. Anyway...

Not a Canon shooter, frankly all the Rebel models confuse me as an outsider, but I have an author who is.

Background: I am a publisher of automotive technical books, and we hire authors who are technical experts first, and photographers often a very distant second. This particular book is on automotive air conditioning, and as such has under hood, under dash and small component shots on the bench that the guy is struggling with.

I think he, in the past, just set the camera to a program mode and took pics out doors on vacation. This assignment if kind of beating him up. The lens he is shooting with is an EF-S18-55 3.5/5.6 IS II per the exif file. Pretty much the kit lens, I am assuming.

I am getting generally blurry shots from him intermittently, and ones where he is not using center point focus so the camera is missing the focal point. I addressed the latter issue with him, but he expressed interest in getting a different lens.

He suggested that he was using a tripod for many of the shots. Would using IS on a tripod with this lens result in blurry shots?

Also, what would be a decent budget lens for him that may focus a little closer and perhaps be a bit brighter? My first thought was a Sigma 17-50 2.8 or something like it, but I would love to know what is out there for Canon shooters for this application. He is not a photo enthusiast, so what might seem cheap to us might be expensive to him. Maybe a good nifty fifty?

Thanks in advance.

I would:

Use tripod, set IS off.

Use AV mode and set it to f5.6

Use live view to ensure you're in focus

Use the delay shutter option in drive mode to ensure no camera shake.

Mackiesback wrote:

Not a Canon shooter, frankly all the Rebel models confuse me as an outsider, but I have an author who is.

Hi Mackie'. Welcome to the dark side!

The T3 is an older entry-level model (about 8 Y.O. if I had to guess). But it should be entirely capable of performing the tasks being asked of it.

Background: I am a publisher of automotive technical books, and we hire authors who are technical experts first, and photographers often a very distant second. This particular book is on automotive air conditioning, and as such has under hood, under dash and small component shots on the bench that the guy is struggling with.

Some awkward angles indeed. How small are the (benchtop) components? Maybe the images could be cropped a bit if they aren't too small.

I think he, in the past, just set the camera to a program mode and took pics out doors on vacation. This assignment if kind of beating him up.

This kind of shooting is definitely more specialized. However do-able with the right tutelage (which you are providing! ).

The lens he is shooting with is an EF-S18-55 3.5/5.6 IS II per the exif file. Pretty much the kit lens, I am assuming.

A decent enough lens (I used to own one).

I am getting generally blurry shots from him intermittently, and ones where he is not using center point focus so the camera is missing the focal point. I addressed the latter issue with him

Excellent. First thing out of the blocks is to find a mode where you can select your own (single) AF point.

but he expressed interest in getting a different lens.

To be honest a new lens won't address the issues he's facing (caveat at the end of my post).

He suggested that he was using a tripod for many of the shots. Would using IS on a tripod with this lens result in blurry shots?

Some. You should turn the IS off whenever on a tripod though. I even do so with the newer "auto-sensing" lenses.

Does your photographer author use flash? Not that I would recommend it in this situation anyways. Constant lighting will let him see exactly what the image will look like, and flash (unless you are well versed) is not very predictable or controllable (however might be OK on the benchtop if well diffused).

what would be a decent budget lens for him that may focus a little closer

This kit lens actually has a pretty decent magnification ratio (1:3), and a fairly close Minimum Focus Distance (10 inches). He does still have to be careful in the tight confines of a vehicle not to place the camera within that distance though, as that would result in very OOF images.

If more magnification is needed, personally I'd just clip a close up lens to the end of the lens. The Raynox DCR-250 works very well (or the DCR-150 if not as much magnification is needed). There will likely be a bit of vignetting in the corners which can be cropped out later, but this is the easiest and least expensive way to get closer. An extension tube or teleconverter would work well too, but each method has its pros and cons.

and perhaps be a bit brighter?

My first thought was a Sigma 17-50 2.8 or something like it

This lens would work fine on his camera (for basically everything other than what he is shooting for you).

Because IMHO what he needs is More Light, and not necessarily a brighter lens. The areas he is shooting (under the hood and below the dash) are very dark, and the contrast is extremely high. So stick a bunch of work lights right where he is shooting! Diffuse them if you need to soften the light some.

Not only will shutter speeds be higher, but he will be able to stop the lens down for increased depth of field. Personally I'd shoot at f/16, because automotive surfaces respond Very well to increased sharpening (to offset the softening effects of diffraction above f/8). As editor, you'll appreciate the deeper depth of field (and easier identify-ability of parts and locations).

If he wants to get really fancy, then he could even add a polarizer to the lens to reduce glare and reflections (keep in mind that he'll lose a couple of stops of light though). With a tripod that wouldn't matter however.

but I would love to know what is out there for Canon shooters for this application. He is not a photo enthusiast, so what might seem cheap to us might be expensive to him. Maybe a good nifty fifty?

The 50 STM is a nice lens for low light (and very inexpensive), but not what he needs for this assignment.

The Siggy 17-50 f/2.8 actually has a longer MFD and (substantially) less magnification than the kit lens he's currently using.

If your author has indicated that he'd be interested in shooting more macros (to make it worthwhile), then I'd have him skip the close up lens and go right to the new Canon EF-S 35mm f/2.8 Macro IS STM macro lens. It would be ideal for a lot of what he's shooting (for you). Note: I own the mirrorless EF-M version of this lens, and it's fantastic for this kind of thing.

Thanks in advance.

Well I hope this helps some. Best of luck to you (both)!

R2

FooHead wrote:

I would:

Use tripod, set IS off.

Use AV mode and set it to f5.6

Use live view to ensure you're in focus

Use the delay shutter option in drive mode to ensure no camera shake.

I didn't know this body had live view, thanks. Given I had to send him a tutorial so that he could understand how to switch to counterpoint, I am not sure he can handle the live view path...LOL. I did get him to turn IS off and set the center point on the focal point and things are looking much better.

Mackiesback wrote:

FooHead wrote:

I would:

Use tripod, set IS off.

Use AV mode and set it to f5.6

Use live view to ensure you're in focus

Use the delay shutter option in drive mode to ensure no camera shake.

I didn't know this body had live view, thanks. Given I had to send him a tutorial so that he could understand how to switch to counterpoint, I am not sure he can handle the live view path...LOL. I did get him to turn IS off and set the center point on the focal point and things are looking much better.

Like R2 said, it's an old entry level camera but can still get nice shots. I've been using one for 6 years now.

R2D2 wrote:

Mackiesback wrote:

Not a Canon shooter, frankly all the Rebel models confuse me as an outsider, but I have an author who is.

Hi Mackie'. Welcome to the dark side!

Thanks! You don't know how much you don't know until you try and make lens recommendations for a brand you have never used before!

The T3 is an older entry-level model (about 8 Y.O. if I had to guess). But it should be entirely capable of performing the tasks being asked of it.

Background: I am a publisher of automotive technical books, and we hire authors who are technical experts first, and photographers often a very distant second. This particular book is on automotive air conditioning, and as such has under hood, under dash and small component shots on the bench that the guy is struggling with.

Some awkward angles indeed. How small are the (benchtop) components? Maybe the images could be cropped a bit if they aren't too small.

Fairly small, but I wouldn't consider this macro work, per se.

I think he, in the past, just set the camera to a program mode and took pics out doors on vacation. This assignment if kind of beating him up.

This kind of shooting is definitely more specialized. However do-able with the right tutelage (which you are providing! ).

The lens he is shooting with is an EF-S18-55 3.5/5.6 IS II per the exif file. Pretty much the kit lens, I am assuming.

A decent enough lens (I used to own one).

I am getting generally blurry shots from him intermittently, and ones where he is not using center point focus so the camera is missing the focal point. I addressed the latter issue with him

Excellent. First thing out of the blocks is to find a mode where you can select your own (single) AF point.

but he expressed interest in getting a different lens.

To be honest a new lens won't address the issues he's facing (caveat at the end of my post).

Good to know, actually. With a stable mount, this lens should work OK for most.

He suggested that he was using a tripod for many of the shots. Would using IS on a tripod with this lens result in blurry shots?

Some. You should turn the IS off whenever on a tripod though. I even do so with the newer "auto-sensing" lenses.

Usually that was a rule with the older IS systems I am familiar with, although that seems to be changing a bit to the point where I thought I should ask.

Does your photographer author use flash? Not that I would recommend it in this situation anyways. Constant lighting will let him see exactly what the image will look like, and flash (unless you are well versed) is not very predictable or controllable (however might be OK on the benchtop if well diffused).

He actually submitted some flash shots and they are an improvement over the non-flash ones. The ones where he hit his focus point, anyway.

what would be a decent budget lens for him that may focus a little closer

This kit lens actually has a pretty decent magnification ratio (1:3), and a fairly close Minimum Focus Distance (10 inches). He does still have to be careful in the tight confines of a vehicle not to place the camera within that distance though, as that would result in very OOF images.

If more magnification is needed, personally I'd just clip a close up lens to the end of the lens. The Raynox DCR-250 works very well (or the DCR-150 if not as much magnification is needed). There will likely be a bit of vignetting in the corners which can be cropped out later, but this is the easiest and least expensive way to get closer. An extension tube or teleconverter would work well too, but each method has its pros and cons.

and perhaps be a bit brighter?

My first thought was a Sigma 17-50 2.8 or something like it

This lens would work fine on his camera (for basically everything other than what he is shooting for you).

Because IMHO what he needs is More Light, and not necessarily a brighter lens. The areas he is shooting (under the hood and below the dash) are very dark, and the contrast is extremely high. So stick a bunch of work lights right where he is shooting! Diffuse them if you need to soften the light some.

Not only will shutter speeds be higher, but he will be able to stop the lens down for increased depth of field. Personally I'd shoot at f/16, because automotive surfaces respond Very well to increased sharpening (to offset the softening effects of diffraction above f/8). As editor, you'll appreciate the deeper depth of field (and easier identify-ability of parts and locations).

DOF is often an issue with shop environments, most rookies really struggle with it. Surprisingly, since these images usually print no larger than 3x5, modern cell phones can work great in this situation. Alas, he has an iPhone 5, and those don't work so great for this. My iPhone 8 has shot some pretty impressive tech shots, the DOF from tiny sensors is pretty awesome.

If he wants to get really fancy, then he could even add a polarizer to the lens to reduce glare and reflections (keep in mind that he'll lose a couple of stops of light though). With a tripod that wouldn't matter however.

I think I will keep him in his lane...LOL!

but I would love to know what is out there for Canon shooters for this application. He is not a photo enthusiast, so what might seem cheap to us might be expensive to him. Maybe a good nifty fifty?

The 50 STM is a nice lens for low light (and very inexpensive), but not what he needs for this assignment.

The Siggy 17-50 f/2.8 actually has a longer MFD and (substantially) less magnification than the kit lens he's currently using.

If your author has indicated that he'd be interested in shooting more macros (to make it worthwhile), then I'd have him skip the close up lens and go right to the new Canon EF-S 35mm f/2.8 Macro IS STM macro lens. It would be ideal for a lot of what he's shooting (for you). Note: I own the mirrorless EF-M version of this lens, and it's fantastic for this kind of thing.

Thanks in advance.

Well I hope this helps some. Best of luck to you (both)!

R2

That's an interesting option, it's also pretty affordable. That Macro light is very cool, I wish Nikon had something like that. Great suggestion that I will pass along. Thanks very much for the suggestions and taking the time to respond both of you. On my way...

Watty dp wrote:

An alternative to consider would be to get a Ricoh WG-50 for taking pictures in the engine compartment. My dentist has used one to take pictures of some of the work they were doing on one of my teeth. I have an older version of it and it is pretty neat in that it has a circle of LEDs around the lense to provide light when you are taking a macro shot which also allows you to shoot without a tripod. It is a lot smaller than a DSLR so you should be able to get into tight locations better. It probably does not take the best pictures in the world but they should be good enough. It seems to run a bit less than $250 . You might be able to find a used one since different versions have been around for a while and they used to be sold under the Pentax brand name

https://www.dpreview.com/products/ricoh/compacts/ricoh_wg50

I had no idea this even existed. I might just get one for myself!