Vivitar 28mm f2.8 Macro lens on my K50..need some help

You mentioned "seems to work in P too", plus the fact that the lens has an "A" setting, suggest that the camera can control the aperture. You can confirm that by setting "Av" (aperture priority) mode - with the lens aperture at "A", you should see the aperture comes alive on the display, and when you turn the dial (the one on the back of the camera, not the one in front of the shutter release) the aperture on the display should change. "P" (program) mode works as well because the camera recognizes aperture settings, but it will be set to the widest aperture of the lens. It is much better to use the "Av" mode when you control the aperture and let the camera determine the shutter speed / ISO. Of course "M" mode always works.

NOTE: With a manual lens, only "center-weighed" and "spot" metering modes can be used.

As for manual focusing - you should switch the "AF/MF" switch on the left side next to the lens mount to "MF" first.

If you use Live View, you can use Focus Peaking to help with focusing. If you are not familiar with this, you should refer to your user manual. When you use the viewfinder to focus, the camera will quickly flash the red dot when you are in focus. This may somewhat help you in dim light when it is difficult to see if the subject is in focus. Another more drastic way to improve manual focusing is to buy a split focusing screen and swap out the original screen of the camera.

A better way I discover, however, is to use the "catch-in-focus" function of the camera. Please refer to your user manual for detailed procedure but I am going to outline it below:

1. activate the "catch-in'focus" function (Menu -> Custom menu ("C") -> page 4, option 22 "Catch-in-focus" -> "On" -> OK

2. set "AF/MF" to "AF" (yes it sounds strange for manual focusing but this is required)

3. put the lens grossly out of focus, then slowly turn the focusing ring to start to bring your subject into focus

4. keep pressing the shutter release button while you continue to slowly move into focus

5. as soon as the subject is in focus, the camera will automatically fire the shot as long as your finger is pressing the shutter release button

Once you understand the sequence of the procedure, you can do this much quicker. I find that "catch-in'focus" works best in good lighting, and may not be accurate in dim light.

I hope this is a start for you to further explore the camera's functions.

Fred_Last wrote:

You mentioned "seems to work in P too", plus the fact that the lens has an "A" setting, suggest that the camera can control the aperture. You can confirm that by setting "Av" (aperture priority) mode - with the lens aperture at "A", you should see the aperture comes alive on your screen, and when you turn the dial (the one on the back of the camera, not the one in front of the shutter release) the aperture setting should change. "P" (program) mode works as well because the camera recognizes aperture settings, but it will be set to the widest aperture of the lens. It is much better to use the "Av" mode when you control the aperture and let the camera determine the shutter speed / ISO. Of course "M" mode always works.

NOTE: With a manual lens, only "center-weighed" and "spot" metering modes can be used.

As for manual focusing - you should switch the "AF/MF" switch on the left side next to the lens mount to "MF" first.

If you use Live View, you can use Focus Peaking to help with focusing. If you are not familiar with this, you should refer to your user manual. When you use the viewfinder to focus, the camera will quickly flash the red dot when you are in focus. This may somewhat help you in dim light when it is difficult to see if the subject is in focus. Another more drastic way to improve manual focusing is to buy a split focusing screen and swap out the original screen in the camera.

A better way I discover, however, is to use the "catch-in-focus" function of the camera. Please refer to your user manual for detailed procedure but I am going to outline it below:

1. activate the "catch-in'focus" function (Menu -> Custom menu ("C") -> page 4, option 22 "Catch-in-focus" -> "On" -> OK

2. set "AF/MF" to "AF" (yes it sounds strange for manual focusing but this is required)

3. put the lens grossly out of focus, then slowly turn the focusing ring to start to bring your subject into focus

4. keep pressing the shutter release button while you continue to slowly move into focus

5. as soon as the subject is in focus, the camera will automatically fire the shot as long as your finger is pressing the shutter release button

Once you understand the sequence of the procedure, you can do this much quicker. I find that "catch-in'focus" works best in good lighting, and may not be accurate in dim light.

I hope this is a start for you to further explore the camera's functions.

Thanks you very much! I'm getting it...slowly. I just now set the top dial to Av, set the lens to A position (which locks it) , selected MF on side of camera, and it shows me info in the view finder the ISO and f stop, along with the image stabilization "hand", and Spot focus symbol. What Is the number to the left side of screen that changes from say 20 to 50, etc. when I point the camera around?

The images look to be accurately exposed with these setting too. Definite progress here and I thank you.

Sactojim wrote:

What Is the number to the left side of screen that changes from say 20 to 50, etc. when I point the camera around?

Not quite sure what you mean - I have a K-70 and K-S1 and their display are nearly identical, therefore I presume your K-50 should also be similar.

There are three large sets of number on the left side: (from the top) shutter speed; aperture; ISO. Could it be the shutter speed ("changes from 20 to 50" = changes from "1/20" to "1/50")? I don't see any other numbers changing when I pan the camera.

Once you switch to Av mode and set your Vivitar's aperture to "A", you should see the middle "aperture" setting turns blue (meaning it is active). When you turn the thumb dial (to the right of the viewfinder) you should see the aperture number change (ie you are controlling the lens aperture from the camera, not from the lens).

P.S. Actually Tv (shuter priority) mode also works with your lens. The "A" (automatic) setting on the lens is designed for shutter priority mode of film-era SLRs, when the user determines the shutter speed, and the camera automatically change the aperture setting in the lens according to metering result.

If you change to "Tv" mode, you shall see the top row shutter speed number turns blue. The shutter speed value will change when you turn the finger dial in front of the shutter release button, and the camera will determine the aperture value (you should see the aperture number change when you point to different areas of brightness).

There is also the dual "Av/Tv" mode which allows you to change both aperture and shutter speed for convenience, so that you don't have to shift from Av to Tv or vice versa.

Fred_Last wrote:

P.S. Actually Tv (shuter priority) mode also works with your lens. The "A" (automatic) setting on the lens is designed for shutter priority mode of film-era SLRs, when the user determines the shutter speed, and the camera automatically change the aperture setting in the lens according to metering result.

If you change to "Tv" mode, you shall see the top row shutter speed number turns blue. The shutter speed value will change when you turn the finger dial in front of the shutter release button, and the camera will determine the aperture value (you should see the aperture number change when you point to different areas of brightness).

There is also the dual "Av/Tv" mode which allows you to change both aperture and shutter speed for convenience, so that you don't have to shift from Av to Tv or vice versa.

Thanks you again. Yes, Tv mode gives me the shutter speed numbers and is changeable via the rear dial. And indeed the TAV mode works too. Thanks for the lesson on this manual focus lens and now I'm really happy I have the K50.

In a day or so, I'll spend some time outside getting some images from my "new" lens. From what I can see so far, the IQ looks like it will work fine for most anything. I'll shoot the models I usually work with (Border Collie and Chihuahua), but they are expensive and pretty demanding with treats, car rides, walks, etc.! Thanks again Fred and hoping you have a very good 2019.

Good advice here...   You are gonna love the old MF glass when you get used to it.  Seems everyone has its own 'look/character'  -   I love some of the old Russian and East German glass. 
Somebody in the house got a new Nikon DSLR for Christmas, I was helping him set it up and was so jealous that I had to pull my Kx and K01 out of the closet and put some MF lenses on them.   
It takes a while to get used to them,  If I am shooting below F2.8 I tend to use live view (magnified) just to make sure I am close to focus.   
Here are a couple snaps from a 20 dollar Helios 44M   58mm F2  -  If you can find one cheap grab it.

Gus

Well captured images Gus. I'm looking forward to having some fun with this lens.

KentG wrote:

You are really lucky to find one of those in PK/A and be a possible NOS (New Old Stock) one. I have a rare Vivitar Series 1 105/2.5 Macro in PK/A (the famous Lester Dine lens). I still prefer it to my AF macros in most situations.

Kent Gittings

Thanks Kent and looking forward to shooting with it. So much interesting info on these older lenses with some just so so and others viewed as the Holy Grail.

KentG wrote:

You are really lucky to find one of those in PK/A and be a possible NOS (New Old Stock) one. I have a rare Vivitar Series 1 105/2.5 Macro in PK/A (the famous Lester Dine lens). I still prefer it to my AF macros in most situations.

Kent Gittings

I have that one too Kent...  It still POPS with its own look.  
I have even used it for head and shoulder snaps on occasion.

Thanks John. I was not aware of the Dpr adaptive lens forum!