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Has anyone tried adding a filter holder to lens adapters?

Started Dec 31, 2018 | Questions
petrochemist Veteran Member • Posts: 3,619
Has anyone tried adding a filter holder to lens adapters?

I've recently seen several lens adapters with built in ND filters.

Potentially useful for lenses with odd size or no filter rings..

For most lenses I can't see any advantage in having them there rather than in front of the lens, but it's prompted the thought that it might be useful for IR shots etc to have the ability to fit a filter inside some of my adapters...

Has anyone tried this?

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OP petrochemist Veteran Member • Posts: 3,619
Re: Has anyone tried adding a filter holder to lens adapters?

Investigating further it seems DEO sell adapters with slot in filters (~$100) in EF-MFT configuration. And of course Canons new EF-R range includes a adapter with filters. The length of this adapter is longer than the filterless models due to the thickness of the glass.

Adding a filter behind the lens will change focus - this shouldn't be a big issue with longer focal lengths but could be for fisheyes etc. I may have to stick to adding gels in most cases...

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ProfHankD
ProfHankD Veteran Member • Posts: 9,147
No, but trivial to do with 3D printing

petrochemist wrote:

I've recently seen several lens adapters with built in ND filters.

Haven't tried it, but it would take no more than an hour or two to insert a filter mount or filter tray in any of my 3D-printed adapters.

Of course, filter thickness will degrade optical quality.

Honestly, I haven't found filters all that useful with digital cameras except for special purposes. I suppose a polarizer might be worthwhile... but if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

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E Dinkla Senior Member • Posts: 2,613
Another approach

ProfHankD wrote:

Honestly, I haven't found filters all that useful with digital cameras except for special purposes. I suppose a polarizer might be worthwhile... but if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

I do not see much use for them either but an ND and a polarizer is in the bag. The 58mm step up filter ring added to my 3D printer hoods is convenient for the 58mm caps and the use of the two 58mm filters that I have. Sure there is a risk that dirt on the filter shows faster when more extended from the front element but the depth of the hood for my lenses usually goes along with the focal length of the lens. I am measuring the hood depth all around more precisely now in manufacturing.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62095208

For the 75mm 5.6 scanner lens mounted into an M42 macro extension tube I made a hood that fits in the M42 thread at one side and a 58mm filter thread at the other side. A deeper hood I made for the 100mm scanner lens also mounted in an M42 macro extension tube. The M42 extension tube mounting makes it all quite universal when both side M42 threads, male/female, can be used.  For example in reversing the lens. The diameter of the lens barrel has to be small though. M52 extenders could be used for larger diameters.

75mm on the camera with short helicoid to MC-11 From front to rear; 58mm hood with male M42 rear fit in M42 extender tube with the barrel lens fitted in its center, M42 helicoid,  M42 to EOS adapter, MC-11 adapter. No chip added yet.

100mm on longer helicoid and its hood showing the rear side with the male M42 thread

100mm reversed mounted to the helicoid with a dual male M42 extender

Even projector lenses could be used in M42 female threads when an M42 thread on their barrels is made with a lathe. Studying that possibility; the standard 42 to 42.3 mm diameter lends itself quite good for that work, little to cut off for the thread and enough wall remains. For hoods a female M42 ring at the rear of the hood could be used.

Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst
No photographer's gear list is complete without the printer mentioned !

OP petrochemist Veteran Member • Posts: 3,619
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing
1

ProfHankD wrote:

petrochemist wrote:

I've recently seen several lens adapters with built in ND filters.

Haven't tried it, but it would take no more than an hour or two to insert a filter mount or filter tray in any of my 3D-printed adapters.

Of course, filter thickness will degrade optical quality.

Honestly, I haven't found filters all that useful with digital cameras except for special purposes. I suppose a polarizer might be worthwhile... but if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

With a full spectrum converted camera filters are pretty much essential for every shot, even if it's just replicating the cameras original hot mirror.

Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a 3D printer, or the skills produce the instructions for an online service... I'm sure this is something I should sort out.

I hadn't originally considered the focus shift adding glass behind the lens will introduce. That does make the idea less worthwhile - but it could still prove a bonus with any lenses fitted via a helicoid such as projector & enlarger lenses many of which don't have standard filter threads, or any at all.

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OP petrochemist Veteran Member • Posts: 3,619
Re: Another approach

E Dinkla wrote:

ProfHankD wrote:

Honestly, I haven't found filters all that useful with digital cameras except for special purposes. I suppose a polarizer might be worthwhile... but if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

I do not see much use for them either but an ND and a polarizer is in the bag. The 58mm step up filter ring added to my 3D printer hoods is convenient for the 58mm caps and the use of the two 58mm filters that I have. Sure there is a risk that dirt on the filter shows faster when more extended from the front element but the depth of the hood for my lenses usually goes along with the focal length of the lens. I am measuring the hood depth all around more precisely now in manufacturing.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62095208

For the 75mm 5.6 scanner lens mounted into an M42 macro extension tube I made a hood that fits in the M42 thread at one side and a 58mm filter thread at the other side. A deeper hood I made for the 100mm scanner lens also mounted in an M42 macro extension tube. The M42 extension tube mounting makes it all quite universal when both side M42 threads, male/female, can be used. For example in reversing the lens. The diameter of the lens barrel has to be small though. M52 extenders could be used for larger diameters.

100mm on longer helicoid and its hood showing the rear side with the male M42 thread

100mm reversed mounted to the helicoid with a dual male M42 extender

Even projector lenses could be used in M42 female threads when an M42 thread on their barrels is made with a lathe. Studying that possibility; the standard 42 to 42.3 mm diameter lends itself quite good for that work, little to cut off for the thread and enough wall remains. For hoods a female M42 ring at the rear of the hood could be used.

Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst
No photographer's gear list is complete without the printer mentioned !

I use a long m42-52mm helicoid for most of my projector lenses - it's much easier to stick a 52mm stepping ring to the outside of the lens body than cut a M42 thread. Only one of my projectors is too big for this & that's got a very long registration, so might be better connected via a lined drainpipe!

I've never tried reverse mounting my  projectors, perhaps I should just stick filter rings to the front as well - not quite as neat as your adaptions admittedly.

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E Dinkla Senior Member • Posts: 2,613
Re: Another approach

petrochemist wrote:

E Dinkla wrote:

ProfHankD wrote:

Honestly, I haven't found filters all that useful with digital cameras except for special purposes. I suppose a polarizer might be worthwhile... but if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

I do not see much use for them either but an ND and a polarizer is in the bag. The 58mm step up filter ring added to my 3D printer hoods is convenient for the 58mm caps and the use of the two 58mm filters that I have. Sure there is a risk that dirt on the filter shows faster when more extended from the front element but the depth of the hood for my lenses usually goes along with the focal length of the lens. I am measuring the hood depth all around more precisely now in manufacturing.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62095208

For the 75mm 5.6 scanner lens mounted into an M42 macro extension tube I made a hood that fits in the M42 thread at one side and a 58mm filter thread at the other side. A deeper hood I made for the 100mm scanner lens also mounted in an M42 macro extension tube. The M42 extension tube mounting makes it all quite universal when both side M42 threads, male/female, can be used. For example in reversing the lens. The diameter of the lens barrel has to be small though. M52 extenders could be used for larger diameters.

100mm on longer helicoid and its hood showing the rear side with the male M42 thread

100mm reversed mounted to the helicoid with a dual male M42 extender

Even projector lenses could be used in M42 female threads when an M42 thread on their barrels is made with a lathe. Studying that possibility; the standard 42 to 42.3 mm diameter lends itself quite good for that work, little to cut off for the thread and enough wall remains. For hoods a female M42 ring at the rear of the hood could be used.

Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst
No photographer's gear list is complete without the printer mentioned !

I use a long m42-52mm helicoid for most of my projector lenses - it's much easier to stick a 52mm stepping ring to the outside of the lens body than cut a M42 thread. Only one of my projectors is too big for this & that's got a very long registration, so might be better connected via a lined drainpipe!

I've never tried reverse mounting my projectors, perhaps I should just stick filter rings to the front as well - not quite as neat as your adaptions admittedly.

Adding a very short M42 extension tube with the filter glued in behind helicoid and lens could be a solution for you. There are also the M42 to M39 adapter rings of about 4.5 mm thick that may fit somewhere between a male and female M42 connection. Filter glass disc of 38mm diam should fit with some glue into the 39mm female thread. Odd imperial pitch so unlikely a filter would fit that thread right away.

Aliexpress.com see M39-M42 Camera Lens Adapter Ring M39 Lens M42 Romp Ring M39-M42

For RF wide angle lenses that did not cope well with the FF sensors there has been some R&D done at the Fred Miranda forums. Most solutions had one extra element (dioptr filter) implanted at the front but I recall one at the rear of a lens too. So extra glass at the rear is not always becoming an issue.

I try to avoid huge lens constructions. Is the 52mm helicoid not much wider than the M42 one?  I understand the 52mm helicoid has a thread of 0.75mm pitch which is like filters can have so a stepping down ring from 52 to ? could do it.  What is the best size then at the 42<>42.3mm diam of slide projection lenses?

Reverse mounting of projector lenses is not delivering much I guess. Wide aperture is an advantage but the designs aimed at scaling beyond 1:10 and most have focal lengths that start above 60mm, you will need very long extensions to get to that scaling when reversed. Filter step up/down ring with the right diameter to glue on will not be that difficult to find. Male/male 52mm might be available too. I received a 58mm this week.

Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst
No photographer's gear list is complete without the printer mentioned !

BBbuilder467 Veteran Member • Posts: 7,057
Re: Has anyone tried adding a filter holder to lens adapters?

petrochemist wrote:

I've recently seen several lens adapters with built in ND filters.

Potentially useful for lenses with odd size or no filter rings..

For most lenses I can't see any advantage in having them there rather than in front of the lens, but it's prompted the thought that it might be useful for IR shots etc to have the ability to fit a filter inside some of my adapters...

Has anyone tried this?

It wouldn't be difficult to machine an existing adapter to  accept a filter inside. Anyone with a lathe could do it. The problem would be finding a consistent size in filters to use.

hindesite Veteran Member • Posts: 4,893
Been there, done that. It is a great idea.
1

BBbuilder467 wrote:

petrochemist wrote:

I've recently seen several lens adapters with built in ND filters.

Potentially useful for lenses with odd size or no filter rings..

For most lenses I can't see any advantage in having them there rather than in front of the lens,

Oh really? Try getting a filter for the front of a 800/5.6 Nikkor, then...

(yeah, I have one, it was quite expensive).

but it's prompted the thought that it might be useful for IR shots etc to have the ability to fit a filter inside some of my adapters...

Has anyone tried this?

It wouldn't be difficult to machine an existing adapter to accept a filter inside. Anyone with a lathe could do it. The problem would be finding a consistent size in filters to use.

No machining  necessary - 40.5 dia filters fit directly inside some EF-M4/3 adapters, for example. It is easiest to push a ring from a UV filter into the adapter, and then screw your filter onto that.

Useful for ND filters for video, and some other situations. Not so useful for PL filters, since it is harder to rotate them (get a Fotodiox filter for that).

Problem is remembering the filter is installed, and in which adapter

I see a few comments about "degrading IQ" and affecting focal length - both issues are overblown IME, Putting any filter on the front of a lens often reduces IQ in any case, particularly for telephoto use.

Seems reasonably likely that any adapter is being used with mirrorless, so any effect on focus is automatically corrected. No big deal.

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OP petrochemist Veteran Member • Posts: 3,619
Re: Been there, done that. It is a great idea.

hindesite wrote:

BBbuilder467 wrote:

petrochemist wrote:

I've recently seen several lens adapters with built in ND filters.

Potentially useful for lenses with odd size or no filter rings..

For most lenses I can't see any advantage in having them there rather than in front of the lens,

Oh really? Try getting a filter for the front of a 800/5.6 Nikkor, then...

(yeah, I have one, it was quite expensive).

I did say most lenses. Both extremes of focal length can cause issues, the Nikon 6mm /2.8 fisheye (with a 220 degree FOV) would I suspect prove even more difficult than long lenses! - I don't have that fisheye, (it costs far more than all my photographic gear combined one sold for $160,000 in 2012) but filters are an issue with the various fisheye's I do have (none of them have filter threads)

but it's prompted the thought that it might be useful for IR shots etc to have the ability to fit a filter inside some of my adapters...

Has anyone tried this?

It wouldn't be difficult to machine an existing adapter to accept a filter inside. Anyone with a lathe could do it. The problem would be finding a consistent size in filters to use.

No machining necessary - 40.5 dia filters fit directly inside some EF-M4/3 adapters, for example. It is easiest to push a ring from a UV filter into the adapter, and then screw your filter onto that.

Useful for ND filters for video, and some other situations. Not so useful for PL filters, since it is harder to rotate them (get a Fotodiox filter for that).

Problem is remembering the filter is installed, and in which adapter

I see a few comments about "degrading IQ" and affecting focal length - both issues are overblown IME, Putting any filter on the front of a lens often reduces IQ in any case, particularly for telephoto use.

Seems reasonably likely that any adapter is being used with mirrorless, so any effect on focus is automatically corrected. No big deal.

I'm not sure if any of my many filters are 40.5mm ones, but this sort of approach sounds promising!

Perhaps I'll be able to get away with a 40.5-37mm step down - I have a fair range of 37mm filters. I'll move this up my list of projects

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hindesite Veteran Member • Posts: 4,893
Re: Been there, done that. It is a great idea.

petrochemist wrote:

I'm not sure if any of my many filters are 40.5mm ones, but this sort of approach sounds promising!

Perhaps I'll be able to get away with a 40.5-37mm step down - I have a fair range of 37mm filters. I'll move this up my list of projects

I think using a step down ring - probably larger than 40.5 - is a good approach. For adapters with a flat area the ring could be fixed with adhesive, double sided tape or sealant. Might even work if the right size for adapters that only have a tapered interior surface.

Problem is if you have fat fingers it is hard to get at the filter, and a PL might be impossible to remove.

And of course, there is no reason not to use a step up ring and mount the filter by the front thread, makes no difference in this situation.

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SmoothOperator Regular Member • Posts: 386
Re: Been there, done that. It is a great idea.

I think it is a great idea, though it seems like it some of it would depend on the type of filter.  For example it seems certain filters like dichroic filters or dichroic polarizers even dispersion type filters, it would be better to have them on the front of the lens, because of the angle of incidence, and the fact that they are also mirrors that reflect light, which you probably don't want bouncing around.

hindesite Veteran Member • Posts: 4,893
Re: Been there, done that. It is a great idea.

SmoothOperator wrote:

I think it is a great idea, though it seems like it some of it would depend on the type of filter. For example it seems certain filters like dichroic filters or dichroic polarizers even dispersion type filters, it would be better to have them on the front of the lens, because of the angle of incidence, and the fact that they are also mirrors that reflect light, which you probably don't want bouncing around.

Also solar filters, you absolutely must have those on the front of the lens.

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Gato Amarillo Veteran Member • Posts: 9,340
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing

Since we're mainly adapting to mirroless cameras which focus from the sensor image focus shift should be accounted for and not be a problem - the one problem being if the shift prevented the lens reaching infinity focus.

Gato

SmoothOperator Regular Member • Posts: 386
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing

Gato Amarillo wrote:

Since we're mainly adapting to mirroless cameras which focus from the sensor image focus shift should be accounted for and not be a problem - the one problem being if the shift prevented the lens reaching infinity focus.

Gato

The adapter should take that into account, drop-in filters in telephotos are included as part of the optical formula.

ProfHankD
ProfHankD Veteran Member • Posts: 9,147
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing

SmoothOperator wrote:

Gato Amarillo wrote:

Since we're mainly adapting to mirroless cameras which focus from the sensor image focus shift should be accounted for and not be a problem - the one problem being if the shift prevented the lens reaching infinity focus.

Gato

The adapter should take that into account, drop-in filters in telephotos are included as part of the optical formula.

As I said in my post that started this sequence,

if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

Of course you build the adapter a little thin compensating for the filter.

For example, if we assume a 2mm thick filter with a refractive index of 1.5, the filter is approximately the same as passing through 3mm of air. Thus, the adapter should be roughly 1mm shorter. If the adapter wasn't made shorter, you'd probably miss infinity focus by a significant amount -- especially using short focal length lenses.

Incidentally, a filter does the same thing on the other end of the lens too, but who cares about 1mm less when your focus is at 5 feet?

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hindesite Veteran Member • Posts: 4,893
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing

ProfHankD wrote:

SmoothOperator wrote:

Gato Amarillo wrote:

Since we're mainly adapting to mirroless cameras which focus from the sensor image focus shift should be accounted for and not be a problem - the one problem being if the shift prevented the lens reaching infinity focus.

Gato

The adapter should take that into account, drop-in filters in telephotos are included as part of the optical formula.

As I said in my post that started this sequence,

if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

In practical terms, I've never noticed this with m4/3 - I have several long telephoto lenses (500 and 800) with rear filters, and all will achieve infinity focus with room to spare with and without out any filters on any adapter combination I've used.

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ProfHankD
ProfHankD Veteran Member • Posts: 9,147
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing

hindesite wrote:

ProfHankD wrote:

SmoothOperator wrote:

Gato Amarillo wrote:

Since we're mainly adapting to mirroless cameras which focus from the sensor image focus shift should be accounted for and not be a problem - the one problem being if the shift prevented the lens reaching infinity focus.

Gato

The adapter should take that into account, drop-in filters in telephotos are included as part of the optical formula.

As I said in my post that started this sequence,

if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

In practical terms, I've never noticed this with m4/3 - I have several long telephoto lenses (500 and 800) with rear filters, and all will achieve infinity focus with room to spare with and without out any filters on any adapter combination I've used.

Assuming those lenses were not intended to take rear filters (or that you're comparing with/without a rear filter), that's because of two things:

  1. The amount of movement needed to focus a long focal length lens is correspondingly larger, so 1mm doesn't move the focus point much. Infinity is also very far away, not just a few hundred feet, so make sure you're really checking infinity focus.
  2. Many long focal length lenses can focus past infinity to allow for thermal expansion of the barrel.
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hindesite Veteran Member • Posts: 4,893
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing

ProfHankD wrote:

hindesite wrote:

ProfHankD wrote:

SmoothOperator wrote:

Gato Amarillo wrote:

Since we're mainly adapting to mirroless cameras which focus from the sensor image focus shift should be accounted for and not be a problem - the one problem being if the shift prevented the lens reaching infinity focus.

Gato

The adapter should take that into account, drop-in filters in telephotos are included as part of the optical formula.

As I said in my post that started this sequence,

if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

In practical terms, I've never noticed this with m4/3 - I have several long telephoto lenses (500 and 800) with rear filters, and all will achieve infinity focus with room to spare with and without out any filters on any adapter combination I've used.

Assuming those lenses were not intended to take rear filters (or that you're comparing with/without a rear filter), that's because of two things:

These lenses were all intended to take rear filters (or placeholder/clear/UV).

  1. The amount of movement needed to focus a long focal length lens is correspondingly larger, so 1mm doesn't move the focus point much. Infinity is also very far away, not just a few hundred feet, so make sure you're really checking infinity focus.

I think the moon is close enough to infinity for me.

  1. Many long focal length lenses can focus past infinity to allow for thermal expansion of the barrel.

Yes, but at the end of the day, in practical terms, it just doesn't matter.

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ProfHankD
ProfHankD Veteran Member • Posts: 9,147
Re: No, but trivial to do with 3D printing
1

hindesite wrote:

ProfHankD wrote:

hindesite wrote:

ProfHankD wrote:

SmoothOperator wrote:

Gato Amarillo wrote:

Since we're mainly adapting to mirroless cameras which focus from the sensor image focus shift should be accounted for and not be a problem - the one problem being if the shift prevented the lens reaching infinity focus.

Gato

The adapter should take that into account, drop-in filters in telephotos are included as part of the optical formula.

As I said in my post that started this sequence,

if the adapter is designed to have a filter with a specific optical thickness, you'd need one even for clear to keep the same rear focus distance, which would still degrade IQ a bit.

In practical terms, I've never noticed this with m4/3 - I have several long telephoto lenses (500 and 800) with rear filters, and all will achieve infinity focus with room to spare with and without out any filters on any adapter combination I've used.

Assuming those lenses were not intended to take rear filters (or that you're comparing with/without a rear filter), that's because of two things:

These lenses were all intended to take rear filters (or placeholder/clear/UV).

  1. The amount of movement needed to focus a long focal length lens is correspondingly larger, so 1mm doesn't move the focus point much. Infinity is also very far away, not just a few hundred feet, so make sure you're really checking infinity focus.

I think the moon is close enough to infinity for me.

  1. Many long focal length lenses can focus past infinity to allow for thermal expansion of the barrel.

Yes, but at the end of the day, in practical terms, it just doesn't matter.

Absolutely false!  The entire focus throw of some lenses is less than 1mm. For example, a 1mm shift of my 15mm Opteka would be the difference between infinity and macro.

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