Is it time to move on from my T4i

Crotonmark wrote:

JPAlbert wrote:

OP:

Which lenses do you have?
Have you considered something like the EOS R (yes, full frame)?

50mm 1.8

thst is the only lens that could require 1/8000, but only if shooting at f/1.8 in bright sunlight.  And don’t confuse needing faster shutter speed for not having the right direction of light (shooting into the sun)

tamron 17-50

canon 55-250

all crop lenses except the 50mm

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

JPAlbert wrote:

OP:

Which lenses do you have?
Have you considered something like the EOS R (yes, full frame)?

50mm 1.8

thst is the only lens that could require 1/8000, but only if shooting at f/1.8 in bright sunlight. And don’t confuse needing faster shutter speed for not having the right direction of light (shooting into the sun)

tamron 17-50

canon 55-250

all crop lenses except the 50mm

But sometimes you do shoot toward the sun. I’ll shoot down a street to frame the beach. Sky blown out. There is no other way to grab the shot. Or I’ll shoot down an alley or to get a building on the street

R2D2 wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

I run it to an issue at baseball games and bright days when I’m trying to stop action.

Are you still getting overexposure even at ISO 100? For stopping action, 1/4000 is usually plenty fast enough. Are you still getting subject motion blur at this SS?

I just ask because you choices get very limited (and more costly) if you want that extra stop.

My Biggest problem is shooting at the beach and blowing out the sky. I shoot raw.

The new sensors will give you an additional stop of dynamic range (at ISO 100). Every increase in ISO will cut into your dynamic range though, so keep it low whenever you can.

Also, shooting with the sun at your back will serve to light your subjects better (decreasing your exposure). Shooting at this angle also means that you’ll be shooting into the darkest part of the (blue) sky.

You could also mount a polarizer. Or a graduated neutral density filter.

Best of luck!

R2

Mark?

Sorry - thought i replied

I didn't know - until I posted this thread that ISO 100 gives me the most DR.  I will test it out on the T4i

There are times I can't shoot with the sun behind me - i like to shoot down a street to the shore, for example. that tends to blowout the sky - or shooting landscapes.

I have a polarizer but I don't often install it

Crotonmark wrote:

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

JPAlbert wrote:

OP:

Which lenses do you have?
Have you considered something like the EOS R (yes, full frame)?

50mm 1.8

thst is the only lens that could require 1/8000, but only if shooting at f/1.8 in bright sunlight. And don’t confuse needing faster shutter speed for not having the right direction of light (shooting into the sun)

tamron 17-50

canon 55-250

all crop lenses except the 50mm

But sometimes you do shoot toward the sun. I’ll shoot down a street to frame the beach. Sky blown out.

Sounds like you need to learn more about photography first. If you expose for areas in shadows, bright highlights will be over exposed.  So needing 1/8000 over just 1/4000 is an extreme case

There is no other way to grab the shot. Or I’ll shoot down an alley or to get a building on the street

Expose to not blow out the highlights, and lighten the shadows with computer software

thanks for the replies

My other big problem is that I have no eye for a good shot but that is another story

I don't see things to shoot that are around me so I save the camera for vacations

I use my iPhone for "fun shooting"

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

JPAlbert wrote:

OP:

Which lenses do you have?
Have you considered something like the EOS R (yes, full frame)?

50mm 1.8

thst is the only lens that could require 1/8000, but only if shooting at f/1.8 in bright sunlight. And don’t confuse needing faster shutter speed for not having the right direction of light (shooting into the sun)

tamron 17-50

canon 55-250

all crop lenses except the 50mm

But sometimes you do shoot toward the sun. I’ll shoot down a street to frame the beach. Sky blown out.

Sounds like you need to learn more about photography first. If you expose for areas in shadows, bright highlights will be over exposed. So needing 1/8000 over just 1/4000 is an extreme case

There is no other way to grab the shot. Or I’ll shoot down an alley or to get a building on the street

Expose to not blow out the highlights, and lighten the shadows with computer software

Thanks

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

JPAlbert wrote:

OP:

Which lenses do you have?
Have you considered something like the EOS R (yes, full frame)?

50mm 1.8

thst is the only lens that could require 1/8000, but only if shooting at f/1.8 in bright sunlight. And don’t confuse needing faster shutter speed for not having the right direction of light (shooting into the sun)

tamron 17-50

canon 55-250

all crop lenses except the 50mm

But sometimes you do shoot toward the sun. I’ll shoot down a street to frame the beach. Sky blown out.

Sounds like you need to learn more about photography first. If you expose for areas in shadows, bright highlights will be over exposed. So needing 1/8000 over just 1/4000 is an extreme case

There is no other way to grab the shot. Or I’ll shoot down an alley or to get a building on the street

Expose to not blow out the highlights, and lighten the shadows with computer software

Maybe I don’t know much. Here’s a photography question.

If I’m shooting down an alley towards the sky how do I expose for the shadow areas and not the sky?

what do I physically need to do?

thanks

I just went through the same upgrade process with my T3i.

I just ended up getting a 77D just before the holidays but I was busy over the holidays so I have not used it enough to give any big insights that you can't get through the photo reviews.

Here are some impressions/pointers though;

1) I bought it through the Canon Refurbished web site to save some money. On that website the prices change surprisingly often and when I was looking at it the 77D only cost a little bit more than the t7i so there was little reason to go with the T7i.  I just looked and the bundle I got is $100 more now that the holiday sales are over. At that price buying new is likely a better choice.

2) I decided not to buy the 80D mainly because of the extra weight which is important to me.

3) The kit 18-55 STM lens bundle was only $20 more so I got it it. The refurbished web site also rarely had the 77D without a lens in stock. In casual use the new version seems to be better than the old non-STM kit lens I had but I would have a hard time explaining why, probably smoother, faster, and quieter.

4) In my casual use the noise at high ISOs seems to be dramatically better than the T3I, at least in JPEGs. I have not looked closely at the raw images yet so it could just be better in camera noise reduction. to the JPEG.

5) I like the touch screen even though I was expecting it to be more of a gimmick. I am starting to use liveview more so that I can just touch the screen to tell it where I want to focus.

6) To catch action shots I frequently use burst mode and the 77D is dramatically better than the T3i which would fill the buffer and pause after about three RAW shots.

7) I use Photoshop elements 14 which is a few years old. That is not being updated to use the version of CR2 RAW files that the 77D creates. This is a known issue with no work around and Adobe is not going to update it since it is an old version. I have several other workarounds but I am not sure what I will do for the long term.

8) The autofocus on the 77d seems to be a lot better than the T3i but I am still learning the ins and outs of that. The liveview autofocus is different than the viewfinder autofocus so be sure to understand how that works.

9) One concern that I had was that the T8i could be introduced soon but I could not find any consistent rumors on that.

Crotonmark wrote:

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

RedFox88 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

JPAlbert wrote:

OP:

Which lenses do you have?
Have you considered something like the EOS R (yes, full frame)?

50mm 1.8

thst is the only lens that could require 1/8000, but only if shooting at f/1.8 in bright sunlight. And don’t confuse needing faster shutter speed for not having the right direction of light (shooting into the sun)

tamron 17-50

canon 55-250

all crop lenses except the 50mm

But sometimes you do shoot toward the sun. I’ll shoot down a street to frame the beach. Sky blown out.

Sounds like you need to learn more about photography first. If you expose for areas in shadows, bright highlights will be over exposed. So needing 1/8000 over just 1/4000 is an extreme case

There is no other way to grab the shot. Or I’ll shoot down an alley or to get a building on the street

Expose to not blow out the highlights, and lighten the shadows with computer software

Maybe I don’t know much. Here’s a photography question.

If I’m shooting down an alley towards the sky how do I expose for the shadow areas and not the sky?

what do I physically need to do?

thanks

One thing you can try is do is to get in the habit of checking the histogram to set your exposure.   There are lots of videos on youtube if you are not familiar with using histograms.

If the far right side of the histogram spikes up that means that the photo will have blow out areas so you would want to reduce your exposure just to the point where the histogram curve ends just at the right edge.

You may end up with the far left side being all stacked up because there are black areas with no detail but in a photograph that can look OK since your eye i used to seeing black shadows.

You can also do more in photoshop to bring out some of the details from the black areas if you need to.  With blow out white areas there is little you can do to fix that.

Thanks. Let me know when you start shoooting

Thanks