Help with Aperture "A" mode on LX10
Looking for some experience with the LX10 (US model) compact camera and its aperture/A mode.
When selecting a bright aperture in A, the benefit of having the lens open up to f1.4-2, the shutter speed picked by the camera is just way too low. Here are some examples- one taken in the intelligent Auto mode (iA) and two taken in aperture (A) priority mode. Intelligent auto mode picked a shutter speed of 1/125 at f1.4 and iso of 1600. I'm fine with that.
However, using aperture priority, it picked a shutter speed of 1/6 (!) with f2.0 and iso 1600. That's just silly shutter speed that I don't see with my G85.
Another picture in aperture priority, another too low shutter speed- this time 1/20 with f2.0 and iso 1600.
I went for the LX10 because I have a G85 (and FZ200) and I love it (and aperture priority is something I shoot in majority of the time with the G85 when I'm not doing shutter priority for outdoor soccer games/sports). I had thought that the familiarity with the menu system and 4k photo styles would help vs. the RX100 III, but man, why is the aperture picking such awful shutter speeds? I am hoping there is some experience I can draw upon here, even if there aren't many posts about the LX10.
Downloading and examining the EXIF in PSE, shows -
The G80 image used Pattern Metering, so an average for the image as a whole. The brighter background driving the faster shutter speed.
The second image, with blown highlights in the background, used spot metering. The cat is dark and in shadow, hence much slower shutter speed.
Not downloaded the last shot but would guess same cause.
G80 images https://www.flickr.com/photos/dieselgolfer/albums/72157669344521949
FZ330 images https://www.flickr.com/photos/dieselgolfer/albums/72157659823425652
TZ60 images https://www.flickr.com/photos/dieselgolfer/albums/72157642261079494
Aurora Borealis https://www.flickr.com/photos/dieselgolfer/albums/72157663549812064
Agreed with Windmillgolfer's opinion. Generally it could be because iA used multi metering mode, which takes into everything inside the frame into consideration when taking the measurement of the ambient lighting condition, under the per installed algorithm to deduce certain light value. Based on that measured light value (an average of the entire scene with bias on certain areas that we don;t know) the camera suggests a suitable set of parameters to achieve a standard brightness that thinks fit for the shot.
The other 2 shots used A mode using Spot metering. It is just to take the reading on the lighting condition of a very limited area (usually the focus point). I guess you might have exposed to the shadow (the cat) and so the camera might think it is darker than the reading taken by iA mode of the previous shot. As the f/stop had been picked by you, it had 2 options, either to use a higher ISO (if it is under Auto ISO mode and before reaching its upper limit either set by you, or physically the camera can do), and the shutter speed.
Normally when the camera has room to adjust on ISO (it must be in Auto ISO and not yet reaching the ceiling limit), it should have a first preference to use higher ISO until reaching its limit, will only than uses slower shutter speed...
In you samples, likely the camera had stopped at ISO1600 and moved shutter speed in both #2 and #3. So a side question is did you set ISO manually to 1600? Or had set a ceiling ISO to 1600?
If you use the Multi metering, no reason the camera, while using the same in-camera light meter, will have different set of reading (unless a sudden change in lighting condition). Might worth to try using Multi metering instead of Spot metering.
If your camera supports zebra, might also recommend to turn it on. Since both #2 and #3 should have been overexposed with some highlight overblown. Real Time zebra might alert us for that.
In the meantime, when such slow shutter speed (1/6" or 1/20") be used, I supposed you can see the stabilisation alert blinks. It should also prompted for our attention that something should not right. At that point might hint us to re-examine the setting.
Comparing to the shot used iA, I believe the brightness condition of the live view simulated image should be quite different (much darker) from #2 and #3. If I shoot it, I would adjust the setting, says use a slower f/stop like f/3.5 or so, or -ev in EC to bring down the brightness of the live view image. Likely the shutter speed might be increased or ISO be lowered for a better shot.
Please permit me to say that live view shooting is indeed a godsend gift that can lead us to develop our technique faster, get better results and more creative than the default camera setting. We should better well use it otherwise might have lost a lot of beauty on using a live view base camera.
My 2 cents.