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EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)

Started Nov 28, 2018 | Discussions
Marco Nero
Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)
22

City with the EOS M6 + 32mm f/1.4 lens...
I found myself using both the original EOS M camera and the newer EOS M6 camera this week. I needed to pop into the city to pick up a few things for my wife for Christmas and our anniversary and brought the EOS M6 with me since it still has the EF-M 32mm f/1.4 STM lens on it... But since I was about to travel to the bush to look for gold I didn't want to risk damaging the M6 in the event of dust, heat or rain (and I knew the original EOS M was built like a tank) so I brought that one with me into the Australian bush the day before yesterday. I only struggled with one picture of a lizard taken at ground level (shown below) because I needed to hold it down to the ground and the reflections on the fixed LCD made it impossible to be sure of what I was photographing. But they turned out and it didn't rain.  I elected not to bring a Circular Polarizer with me because I didn't want highly contrasted results.
.
Gold-rush Relics with the  EOS M + 11-22mm lens ...
We found an long-gone Gold Prospector's mining equipment stashed between a rock and an old tree and that was quite interesting since we can date the set from between 1851 and 1880.  I thought I'd really need to Macro lens for this day out but the 11-22mm enabled me to take some decent closeup shots of things.  There was some gold and copper quartz specimens left in the Dolly Pot where we found them over a hundred and fifty+ years later.  And looking at satellite images I think I can see where the miner was likely digging for it in the valley below the ridge he was camped on.  The two cameras and two lenses were quite versatile to work with and i was glad to have brought the EOS M with me instead of a subcompact camera or just my iPhone.  In fact I took a selfie with the iPhone6S and it was just horrible, even with good light.
.
We hope to return to where the relics were since the area sees fewer visitors than more conveniently accessible locations.  We were pretty annoyed to find a still-burning campfire that was abandoned at midday.  We've had serious winds recently and something like that could easily have spread. 
.

EOS M6 + 32mm f/1.4 - Solid Australian Opal pendant through 2 layers of glass. - CPL used.

EOS M6 + 32mm f/1.4 - A massive "Quantum Class" cruise ship docked in Sydney - CPL used.

EOS M6 + 32mm f/1.4 - An AAA grade Tahitian pearl with White Gold & Diamonds on display.

EOS M6 + 32mm f/1.4 - The massive 'Ovation Of The Seas' cruise ship. CPL used.

EOS M6 + 32mm f/1.4 - Testing out one of those new Nespresso Vertuo machines.

EOS M + 11-22mm - A Boulder Opal pendant for my friend (who loves opals)

EOS M + 11-22mm - In a State Forest looking for a meteorite with a metal detector.

EOS M + 11-22mm - Looking Up

EOS M + 11-22mm - An old Miner's drive... he was looking for the riverbed.

EOS M + 11-22mm - Finding a single staple with a metal detector in a remote place.

EOS M + 11-22mm - Washed out firetrack with gold nuggets in the ancient riverbed.

EOS M + 11-22mm - Gold Prospectors kit hidden behind a rock and an old tree.  There was a Dolly Pot (for crushing ore), a pick, a shovel and a reasonably sharp axe.  All from the mid 1800s.

EOS M + 11-22mm - A Mountain Dragon (Rankinia diemensis)

EOS M + 11-22mm - some thoughtless fool left a fire burning nearby
EOS M + 11-22mm - Mountain Dragon again after I put him back down.

EOS M + 11-22mm - Mossy trees along the old track.

EOS M + 11-22mm - recovering the old miner's equipment for a picture

EOS M6 + 32mm f/1.4 - closeup shots of the Broad Arrow symbol on the pick and shovel - indicating they were from the Board Of Ordinance (Government issued).

EOS M + 11-22mm f/1.4 - a tighter closeup of that opal
EOS M + 11-22mm - Heading out of the State Forest (timber growth zone).

EOS M + 11-22mm - Alluvial Gold, bleached in oxalic acid & tumbled in an ultrasonic cleaner.

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
Canon EF-M 11-22mm f/4-5.6 IS STM Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon EOS M Canon EOS M6
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Markintosh
Markintosh Senior Member • Posts: 1,970
Re: EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)

Great photos, Marco!

I'm glad to see that original M is still kicking a**:)

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robbert100 Contributing Member • Posts: 714
Re: EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)

Great pictures Marco!

The Original EOS M is indeed build like a rock and it still rocks!

Just a minor remark… "EOS M + 11-22mm f/1.4 - a tighter closeup of that opal" ...11-22 f1.4...? the exif says the shot was at f6,3

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Best regards,
Rob
www.namaqualand.wordpress.com

 robbert100's gear list:robbert100's gear list
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adventurer69
adventurer69 Senior Member • Posts: 1,938
Re: EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)
2

These are some really awesome photos 

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Canon PowerShot A590 IS Canon PowerShot SD880 IS Canon PowerShot SX50 HS Canon EOS M Canon EOS M50 +11 more
Marco Nero
OP Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
robert100: settings

robbert100 wrote:

Great pictures Marco!

The Original EOS M is indeed build like a rock and it still rocks!

Just a minor remark… "EOS M + 11-22mm f/1.4 - a tighter closeup of that opal" ...11-22 f1.4...? the exif says the shot was at f6,3

Thanks, I've typed f/1.4 there by accident but it's too late to change it now.  Was still the 11-22mm lens.  This is what happens when you write things at 4am!
.
I wish all Canon EOSM cameras were built like the first model.

-- hide signature --

Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
fotoword
fotoword Contributing Member • Posts: 513
Re: EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)

Hi Marco

Thanks for posting this. I do really enjoy your story telling and images. You put a great effort into it and it comes across really well . Thanks again.

The campfire issue also irks me as I used to live in mount colah on the outskirts of Sydney and bushfires or even backburning (smoke) were a constant worry.

I'm a recent entrant to the world of M (M5) and finding it somewhat compelling to use when I get the opportunity.

I've already acquired a few lenses as they don't seem to be too pricey (11,11-22, 15-45, 50stm and 55-250stm) and a godox tt350c flash (which can trigger my tt685o flashes)..

Plenty of stuff to try out, lots of fun to be had.

😀

Kind regards

Paul

 fotoword's gear list:fotoword's gear list
Pentax Q7 Fujifilm X-T1 Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM5 Canon EOS M5 Olympus E-M1 II +33 more
P runar Regular Member • Posts: 361
Re: EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)

Great photos Marco. I have a metaldetector and i think i ned a better one.

This one i have are they any good?

 P runar's gear list:P runar's gear list
Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon EOS M Canon EOS M50 Canon EOS M6 II Canon EF-M 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM +4 more
Marco Nero
OP Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
To: P runar - Re: Metal Detecting / Prospecting & Relics
2

P runar wrote:

Great photos Marco. I have a metaldetector and i think i need a better one.

This 100 $ i have are they any good?

Hi P runar. I haven't seen that particular detector before so I can't really comment on what they're like. Although it does resemble an expensive one I see on ebay that seems to annoy people trying to use them. Try to gravitate towards one of the major brand names (see below). These days you might want to consider something like a Minelab Go-Find detector to start out with. The Go-Find 40 is pretty good value although it's a little more expensive than the machine you have.
.
the main five brands of metal detectors carried by most dealers will be:
* Minelab
* Whites
* Garrett
* Bounty Hunter
* Tesoro
There's others out there but the main brands tend to be the ones above.
.
Because I'm in Australia, only the Minelab detectors are designed to handle our extremely high mineralization where the gold tends to reside. Garrett brand detectors can be used here but they usually struggle to penetrate the generalization here and are better suited to more neutral soils. If you're in North America, Europe or any other place other than Africa and Australia, you can use pretty much any machine to seek gold nuggets because they've generally moved away from their host rock and have been washed elsewhere where you can more easily locate them. And just about any detector works to find relics. If you live near beaches you can be sure there's a few people who look for valuables by combing the beach with a metal detector that visit from time to time. The trick is to work out where the visitors are likely to drop their coins etc. Surfers often leave their wallets and jewellery with their girlfriends up on the high sand or on the grass near carparks so that's always a good place to check. Extremely low tides are always great times to go detecting. If you live in the country or near a historical location you'll probably do well looking for relics and artifacts but be wary of your local laws and be particularly aware of finding live ordinance in places where battle has occurred.
.

My first two days exploring a goldfield with metal detectors was pretty uneventful.

Finding more interesting things in other locations years later.

This 1820s cannon ball was used as a ball-&-chain weight on a set of leg irons for a convict. It was found with an inexpensive metal detector and presumably is worth a few thousand dollars. A ball attached to a set of leg irons often holds an auction price of around $20K locally.

Meteorite located with a very inexpensive coin and relic metal detector

.
If it's gold you are looking for you only occasionally find it on the first day out looking for it. In fact even with the very best equipment you can't always be assured of finding gold... All goldfields can give up gold but not all goldfields have nuggets. And most metal detectors (if not all) can't detect fine gold... the sort of thing you'd pick up in a gold pan. If you're relic hunting then the detectors are much more affordable. Coin and Relic detectors are very good these days. Buy a major brand like Whites, Garrett or Minelab. There's a few lesser brands but those are the top three manufacturers and the most popular brands today. At the very bottom of the range are fairly rubbishy detectors that aren't worth your time and will frustrate you.
.
Long Range Locators (AKA L.R.L.s) - these are a modern scam. Some dealers sell them. You will never find anything with them. People have gone to jail for selling them to the army and even the FBI.
.
Coin and Relic Detectors - suitable for coins, relics, jewellery and meteorites. They tend to be quite affordable and can often discriminate between different metals. There is currently no metal detector that can identify gold.
.
Gold Detectors - Very Low Frequency (VLF) - Relatively affordable - can discriminate between different types of metals with some models. Not much depth... perhaps about a foot at maximum in low-mineralization. Often used for relic hunting as well as gold nuggets.

Gold Detectors - Pulse Induction (PI) - More expensive. Goes much deeper - possibly deeper than 2 or 3 meters with a large coil in ideal conditions. More sensitive to electrical interference. Can't be used near powerlines or near cities without considerable interference. Usually can't discriminate but some coils allow for a different sound for ferrous and non-ferrous targets.
.
Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) - Not a metal detector. Heavy and Expensive but difficult to use. Better suited to finding extremely large articles at considerable depth (several meters deep). Suitable for finding voids in rock or walls. Often used to locate graves or buried aircraft and caches at depth. VERY hard to use and not entirely reliable - even when operated by experts.
.

Two control-boxes from detectors that were for sale at the same price. The one of the left was a counterfeit and the one on the right was real. The counterfeit was from China and didn't perform.

.
Just watch out for counterfeits if you buy machines online and not from a certified dealer since the Chinese knockoffs are all over the internet. I see a lot of them circulating these days and I've even seen people trying to resell them to another unsuspecting buyer to try and recover their lost money. There's usually a dealer near all major cities these days. The only place I've heard of metal detectors being banned is in France and Turkey with other restrictions in Greece and possibly Iran (to protect the cultural antiquities from being found and then sold on the black market or even eBay).
.

My first day out detecting with a $700 Minelab X-Terra 70 gold detector at Sofala goldfield.

My wife testing a Minelab GPX-5000 on the week of its release - in the Ophir Gold District.

My wife again - testing a Minelab SDC-2300 in the Oberon Goldfield.

Me using the Minelab GPX-4500 gold detector for the first time at the Sunny Corner goldfield.

Me using a GPX-5000 last month (EOS M camera on shoulder).

One of our friends using a Minelab GPX-5000 gold detector in Hill End

.
But our Australian gold is usually in the most mineralized soil in the world where most other metal detectors simply go nuts. It's impossible to stabilize them. The machine I've been using since 2009 is the GPX-5000 from Minelab. I'm also using specialized optional coils for the type of locations I'm in. These are pretty expensive machines although there's one recent model called the GPZ-7000 that is slightly more powerful and retails locally for about AUD $10,500.00. But remember that those machines are designed for people who seek gold professionally and need extreme performance to cut through all the iron and minerals in the goldfields here. It's not easy finding gold. If it was easy to find it wouldn't be so valuable. I've met people who claim to find it every time they go out but that hasn't been my experience.  No matter where you are in the world, there are things you can look for with metal detectors.  It's a healthy hobby and a rewarding one.  There are also people who do this full time - either as gold prospectors or relic hunters.
.

Fine gold recovered with a $20 gold pan.

Gold found and recovered with a $400 high-banker sluice

Coarse nuggets I found with a $700 metal detector.

Gold nuggets found with a $6,500 gold detector.Larger nugget is 11 ounces.

Larger gold nugget found with a $6,500 gold detector. This one was 5 ounces (troy oz).

Gold nuggets & specimens found with a $10,500 gold detector.... missed by other machines.

My first day out relic hunting with a 'cheap' detector (Minelab X-terra 70) produced a heck of a lot of great stuff. The gold chain in the top left corner was solid 18ct gold and weighed 2oz. This was at the base of a wharf in mud (cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner). Larger coins on the right came from a sack found in the bush on another day.

Gold Doubloons found with a less expensive coin & relic metal detector.

A massive Platinum and gold nugget found by a friend using a GPX-5000 ... we thought it was a meteorite because magnets stuck to it. It contained 5oz of pure gold and about 10 or 11 kilos of platinum plus Iridium. I think there was a tiny amount of silver in it as well. The refiner purchased all of the metals.

.

-- hide signature --

Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
Marco Nero
OP Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
To: fotoword ...
3

fotoword wrote:

Hi Marco

Thanks for posting this. I do really enjoy your story telling and images. You put a great effort into it and it comes across really well . Thanks again.

I figured that the images made more sense with some context. Not everyone will appreciate how interesting it is to find some old relics behind a tree but those looking to determine which lens to use - or might be considering trying out the EOS M platform - may be able to appreciate what to expect. Which is partly why I added some shots from the newer M6 and the new EF-M 32mm f/1.4 lens to keep the thread relevant.

The campfire issue also irks me as I used to live in mount colah on the outskirts of Sydney and bushfires or even backburning (smoke) were a constant worry.

I'd HATE to get stuck in a bushfire. It almost happened once when I was collecting venomous spiders in the bush and a fire came up the wall of the mountain I was on. A rescue helicopter hovered overhead to give me instructions before it water-bombed the fire so I could get back to my car. I suspect that fire was deliberately lit but you can have fires start from a dewdrop on a leaf or the sun refracting through a piece of glass. The fire below was at St Ives and this is one of the places I catch Funnel Web spiders for the venom extraction and antivenom program conducted from Gosford. I always have a lot of luck finding those spiders in St Ives for some reason.
.

This is the fire that nearly got me. I took this after I managed to get back on the road.

The helicopter that gave assistance.

I'm a recent entrant to the world of M (M5) and finding it somewhat compelling to use when I get the opportunity.

These cameras really are wonderful. I'm often surprised at how decent the image quality is from the available EF-M lenses. If you're new to the M-series you'll enjoy what these cameras can do. The results will be the same as though using a DSLR with an APS-C sensor.

I've already acquired a few lenses as they don't seem to be too pricey (11,11-22, 15-45, 50stm and 55-250stm) and a godox tt350c flash (which can trigger my tt685o flashes).

The 11-22mm lens is a very useful one that I used for a number of the pictures in this thread when I was out in the goldfields. For landscapes and architecture it's a magnificent lens. For closeups I'll zoom in to 22mm to reduce distortion. The only downside is that it doesn't offer a particularly shallow DOF nor does it offer good lowlight performance. Yet it's wide and VERY sharp with a very effective Image Stabilizer. The results from this lens really are quite moving. After the sun sets I'll switch over to the EF-M 22mm f/2 STM lens because it's usually more effective in lowlight when handheld. This is also Canon's cheapest lens so the 22mm f/2 is astoundingly good value. I've taken a lot of important shots with those two lenses.

Plenty of stuff to try out, lots of fun to be had.

I agree! Digital Photography allows for a lot of creativity. These M-cameras ramp that up a notch by offering exceptional image quality at lower costs with considerable portability. Enjoy your new camera and lenses! Hope to see future shots!

😀

Kind regards

Paul

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
P runar Regular Member • Posts: 361
Thank you

I want to thank you for taking time to answer my question and I appreciate the information you have provided me . This is so helpful..    Thanks Marco.

 P runar's gear list:P runar's gear list
Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon EOS M Canon EOS M50 Canon EOS M6 II Canon EF-M 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM +4 more
P runar Regular Member • Posts: 361
Re: To: P runar - Re: Metal Detecting / Prospecting & Relics

Marco Nero wrote:

P runar wrote:

Great photos Marco. I have a metaldetector and i think i need a better one.

This 100 $ i have are they any good?

Hi P runar. I haven't seen that particular detector before so I can't really comment on what they're like. Although it does resemble an expensive one I see on ebay that seems to annoy people trying to use them. Try to gravitate towards one of the major brand names (see below). These days you might want to consider something like a Minelab Go-Find detector to start out with. The Go-Find 40 is pretty good value although it's a little more expensive than the machine you have.

There are a Minelab online store here in Norway so i vil try to find that Go-Find 40. It is Winter here  and  minus celsius so i have somme time to find a New detector .

.
the main five brands of metal detectors carried by most dealers will be:
* Minelab
* Whites
* Garrett
* Bounty Hunter
* Tesoro
There's others out there but the main brands tend to be the ones above.
.
Because I'm in Australia, only the Minelab detectors are designed to handle our extremely high mineralization where the gold tends to reside. Garrett brand detectors can be used here but they usually struggle to penetrate the generalization here and are better suited to more neutral soils. If you're in North America, Europe or any other place other than Africa and Australia, you can use pretty much any machine to seek gold nuggets because they've generally moved away from their host rock and have been washed elsewhere where you can more easily locate them. And just about any detector works to find relics. If you live near beaches you can be sure there's a few people who look for valuables by combing the beach with a metal detector that visit from time to time. The trick is to work out where the visitors are likely to drop their coins etc. Surfers often leave their wallets and jewellery with their girlfriends up on the high sand or on the grass near carparks so that's always a good place to check. Extremely low tides are always great times to go detecting. If you live in the country or near a historical location you'll probably do well looking for relics and artifacts but be wary of your local laws and be particularly aware of finding live ordinance in places where battle has occurred.

Yes great tips and trick.

.

My first two days exploring a goldfield with metal detectors was pretty uneventful.

Finding more interesting things in other locations years later.

This 1820s cannon ball was used as a ball-&-chain weight on a set of leg irons for a convict. It was found with an inexpensive metal detector and presumably is worth a few thousand dollars. A ball attached to a set of leg irons often holds an auction price of around $20K locally.

Meteorite located with a very inexpensive coin and relic metal detector

.
If it's gold you are looking for you only occasionally find it on the first day out looking for it. In fact even with the very best equipment you can't always be assured of finding gold... All goldfields can give up gold but not all goldfields have nuggets. And most metal detectors (if not all) can't detect fine gold... the sort of thing you'd pick up in a gold pan. If you're relic hunting then the detectors are much more affordable. Coin and Relic detectors are very good these days. Buy a major brand like Whites, Garrett or Minelab. There's a few lesser brands but those are the top three manufacturers and the most popular brands today. At the very bottom of the range are fairly rubbishy detectors that aren't worth your time and will frustrate you.

Wow i like that Meteorite and cannon ball !!!

.
Long Range Locators (AKA L.R.L.s) - these are a modern scam. Some dealers sell them. You will never find anything with them. People have gone to jail for selling them to the army and even the FBI.
.
Coin and Relic Detectors - suitable for coins, relics, jewellery and meteorites. They tend to be quite affordable and can often discriminate between different metals. There is currently no metal detector that can identify gold.
.
Gold Detectors - Very Low Frequency (VLF) - Relatively affordable - can discriminate between different types of metals with some models. Not much depth... perhaps about a foot at maximum in low-mineralization. Often used for relic hunting as well as gold nuggets.

Gold Detectors - Pulse Induction (PI) - More expensive. Goes much deeper - possibly deeper than 2 or 3 meters with a large coil in ideal conditions. More sensitive to electrical interference. Can't be used near powerlines or near cities without considerable interference. Usually can't discriminate but some coils allow for a different sound for ferrous and non-ferrous targets.
.
Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) - Not a metal detector. Heavy and Expensive but difficult to use. Better suited to finding extremely large articles at considerable depth (several meters deep). Suitable for finding voids in rock or walls. Often used to locate graves or buried aircraft and caches at depth. VERY hard to use and not entirely reliable - even when operated by experts.
.

Two control-boxes from detectors that were for sale at the same price. The one of the left was a counterfeit and the one on the right was real. The counterfeit was from China and didn't perform.

.
Just watch out for counterfeits if you buy machines online and not from a certified dealer since the Chinese knockoffs are all over the internet. I see a lot of them circulating these days and I've even seen people trying to resell them to another unsuspecting buyer to try and recover their lost money. There's usually a dealer near all major cities these days. The only place I've heard of metal detectors being banned is in France and Turkey with other restrictions in Greece and possibly Iran (to protect the cultural antiquities from being found and then sold on the black market or even eBay).
.

My first day out detecting with a $700 Minelab X-Terra 70 gold detector at Sofala goldfield.

My wife testing a Minelab GPX-5000 on the week of its release - in the Ophir Gold District.

My wife again - testing a Minelab SDC-2300 in the Oberon Goldfield.

Me using the Minelab GPX-4500 gold detector for the first time at the Sunny Corner goldfield.

Me using a GPX-5000 last month (EOS M camera on shoulder).

One of our friends using a Minelab GPX-5000 gold detector in Hill End

.
But our Australian gold is usually in the most mineralized soil in the world where most other metal detectors simply go nuts. It's impossible to stabilize them. The machine I've been using since 2009 is the GPX-5000 from Minelab. I'm also using specialized optional coils for the type of locations I'm in. These are pretty expensive machines although there's one recent model called the GPZ-7000 that is slightly more powerful and retails locally for about AUD $10,500.00. But remember that those machines are designed for people who seek gold professionally and need extreme performance to cut through all the iron and minerals in the goldfields here. It's not easy finding gold. If it was easy to find it wouldn't be so valuable. I've met people who claim to find it every time they go out but that hasn't been my experience. No matter where you are in the world, there are things you can look for with metal detectors. It's a healthy hobby and a rewarding one. There are also people who do this full time - either as gold prospectors or relic hunters.

Great photos and wife+ friends. 🙂

.

Fine gold recovered with a $20 gold pan.

Gold found and recovered with a $400 high-banker sluice

Coarse nuggets I found with a $700 metal detector.

Gold nuggets found with a $6,500 gold detector.Larger nugget is 11 ounces.

Larger gold nugget found with a $6,500 gold detector. This one was 5 ounces (troy oz).

Gold nuggets & specimens found with a $10,500 gold detector.... missed by other machines.

My first day out relic hunting with a 'cheap' detector (Minelab X-terra 70) produced a heck of a lot of great stuff. The gold chain in the top left corner was solid 18ct gold and weighed 2oz. This was at the base of a wharf in mud (cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner). Larger coins on the right came from a sack found in the bush on another day.

Gold Doubloons found with a less expensive coin & relic metal detector.

A massive Platinum and gold nugget found by a friend using a GPX-5000 ... we thought it was a meteorite because magnets stuck to it. It contained 5oz of pure gold and about 10 or 11 kilos of platinum plus Iridium. I think there was a tiny amount of silver in it as well. The refiner purchased all of the metals.

.

WOW  Thanks ,,, great pics ,,   hvat type of magnet are the best ?

 P runar's gear list:P runar's gear list
Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon EOS M Canon EOS M50 Canon EOS M6 II Canon EF-M 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM +4 more
Marco Nero
OP Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
To: P runar - Re: Strong Magnets
2

P runar wrote:

WOW Thanks ,,, great pics ,, hvat type of magnet are the best ?

Using a larger Neodymium magnet on a pole to collect meteorites.  This meteorite is mostly iron. This shape of magnet isn't ideal for attaching to a pick although it is very strong and there are ways to tape it (with duct tape) to a pole or a pick if you are determined.
.
I usually carry a small prospecting pick or a geologists pick on my belt when I am detecting and use it to turn over locks and rocks etc.  I often have a strong neodymium magnet taped either to the head of the pick (so it doesn't slide when the pick strikes against anything) or I will get a magnet with a hole through it and I will place a screw through the magnet and into the wooden handle of my pick.  Just remember to keep it away from your wallet if you have credit cards inside it. 
.
I know that the 'Mythbusters' show on television claimed that  magnets can't erase a credit card but they were wrong as I have witnessed this happen in front of me twice. It should be safer if you keep your cards from coming in direct contact with a strong magnet.
.

A stony meteorite containing just enough iron to attract small magnets.

A slice of a stony meteorite that contains iron (the sulvery specks).  The iron in this instance wasn't enough to attract a magnet but it was enough to find with a metal detector.

.
A magnet on the end of a short-handled pick can help you pick out bits of iron off the ground to speed up your detecting process and eliminate iron-based trash or even help you find meteorites.  Those magnets are cheap and you only need one.  Just remember that larger magnets of an inch and a half or larger can be VERY dangerous if you have two of them and they suddenly snap together.  You can break your fingers that way.  Just one magnet is enough and it's usually much safer than two.  I'd recommend one that is about an inch or an inch and a half wide to do the job.
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Most meteorites contain iron.  Iron meteorites contain a lot of iron so they're easily found with a magnet... but even stony-iron meteorites contain enough iron to respond to your metal detector.
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If you buy a metal detector to look for meteorites with, be sure to turn OFF the "discrimination" so that the detector will not reject iron.  This way, if you find a meteorites, the detector will not assume that the iron is 'trash' and then ignore it.

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
P runar Regular Member • Posts: 361
Re: To: P runar - Re: Strong Magnets

Marco Nero wrote:

P runar wrote:

WOW Thanks ,,, great pics ,, hvat type of magnet are the best ?

This shape of magnet isn't ideal for attaching to a pick although it is very strong and there are ways to tape it (with duct tape) to a pole or a pick if you are determined.

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I usually carry a small prospecting pick or a geologists pick on my belt when I am detecting and use it to turn over locks and rocks etc. I often have a strong neodymium magnet taped either to the head of the pick (so it doesn't slide when the pick strikes against anything) or I will get a magnet with a hole through it and I will place a screw through the magnet and into the wooden handle of my pick. Just remember to keep it away from your wallet if you have credit cards inside it.
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I know that the 'Mythbusters' show on television claimed that magnets can't erase a credit card but they were wrong as I have witnessed this happen in front of me twice. It should be safer if you keep your cards from coming in direct contact with a strong magnet.
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A stony meteorite containing just enough iron to attract small magnets.

A slice of a stony meteorite that contains iron (the sulvery specks). The iron in this instance wasn't enough to attract a magnet but it was enough to find with a metal detector.

.
A magnet on the end of a short-handled pick can help you pick out bits of iron off the ground to speed up your detecting process and eliminate iron-based trash or even help you find meteorites. Those magnets are cheap and you only need one. Just remember that larger magnets of an inch and a half or larger can be VERY dangerous if you have two of them and they suddenly snap together. You can break your fingers that way. Just one magnet is enough and it's usually much safer than two. I'd recommend one that is about an inch or an inch and a half wide to do the job.
.
Most meteorites contain iron. Iron meteorites contain a lot of iron so they're easily found with a magnet... but even stony-iron meteorites contain enough iron to respond to your metal detector.
.
If you buy a metal detector to look for meteorites with, be sure to turn OFF the "discrimination" so that the detector will not reject iron. This way, if you find a meteorites, the detector will not assume that the iron is 'trash' and then ignore it.

Thanks Marco,     i vil have a strong neodymium magnet ,about an inch and a half wide.  Foto and detectors is a great hobby.🙂

 P runar's gear list:P runar's gear list
Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon EOS M Canon EOS M50 Canon EOS M6 II Canon EF-M 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM +4 more
sueanne
sueanne Forum Pro • Posts: 21,078
Re: EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)

Excellent

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Canon PowerShot A510 Canon PowerShot A650 IS Canon PowerShot SD880 IS Canon PowerShot S3 IS Canon PowerShot S110 +3 more
Photologging Forum Member • Posts: 52
Re: EOSM+M6 & 32mm+11-22mm lenses + Relics Found (PICS)

Im considering the 32 mm together with the 22 mm, and one of the points favorable to the 32 was the suposed superior distortion performance, apart that i like the focal distance, but after seeing this picture of the boat and the tower i dont really know...

https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/g/TS560x560~3829269.jpg

the one of the tower and the ship has very noticeable distortion.

Is there any review speaking abot the geometric distortion of this lens.

Thank you

Marco Nero
OP Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
To: Photologging - Re: distortion on 32mm lens.
3

Photologging wrote:

Im considering the 32 mm together with the 22 mm, and one of the points favorable to the 32 was the suposed superior distortion performance, apart that i like the focal distance, but after seeing this picture of the boat and the tower i dont really know...

https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/g/TS560x560~3829269.jpg

the one of the tower and the ship has very noticeable distortion.

Is there any review speaking abot the geometric distortion of this lens.

Thank you

The distortion of the building in the distance is more of a perspective distortion.  The same will apply to the brickwork in some of the shots below.  As long as it's a tilt and not a curvature I think this is to be expected for a focal length like this. 
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I think the 32mm f/1.4 lens is considered to have the least amount of distortion for a lens with its focal length. In that shot, the building and associated light poles were constructed in the 1840s. There's physical distortion on the building due to repeat repairs and rendering to the convict-cut sandstone on the facade of the structure.  but I chose not to try and alter it for the shot. As for the building in the distance, I wasn't using the Level on the camera display since the sun was behind me. The bottom of the ship has a fence nearby and it's likewise at a skewed angle from where I was shooting. That's a tall ship ... and the building in the distance is even taller. Unless you use a tilt-shift lens or a lens with closer to 100mm+ on it, you're going to experience some degree of optical distortion when it comes to very close subjects or a mixture of close, medium and distant subjects. It's just a property of optical physics. Canon says of this lens "One aspherical element reduces distortion and spherical aberration". Canon Australia says "subjects captured with this lens are flattering with no discernible distortion." .
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Some more images from this lens (below) show how little distortion is produced...
No optical correction has been applied to these images during processing after downloading. I do have lens-correction enabled on the camera.  Remember that this is a 32mm lens that is cropped when used on an APS-C camera sensor, producing a focal length that resembles 50mm. Another lens which produces limited and well controlled distortion is the 28mm Macro lens. However, this is a wide-angle Macro lens so for closeups it does distort the subject. Yet for architecture the distortion is well controlled.
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Below are shots from the 32mm lens. Some of these I haven't posted previously. They should help you decide...
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Different ship.

The pole on the right is actually set at an angle. The black pole is likewise tilted slightly

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
jschoonj
jschoonj Regular Member • Posts: 311
Re: To: Photologging - Re: distortion on 32mm lens.

Wonderful pictures.
I especially like the one with the big red gates and the woman with the stroller.
Was that ooc jpeg or a processed raw?

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Photologging Forum Member • Posts: 52
Re: To: Photologging - Re: distortion on 32mm lens.

Thank for your elaboration. Actually the pictures look very good, although they have a little of distortion at tth sides. I guess the distortion is more severe with the 22mm.

Thank you for sharing all the information

Marco Nero
OP Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
Re: jschoonj

jschoonj wrote:

Wonderful pictures.
I especially like the one with the big red gates and the woman with the stroller.
Was that ooc jpeg or a processed raw?

.

That was taken as I left the Sydney Powerhouse Museum.  Something about the arrangement and detail caught my eye.  That picture was an out-of-camera JPEG.  From memory I didn't need to alter that image in any way.

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
Marco Nero
OP Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 7,582
Re: To: Photologging - Re: distortion on 32mm lens.

Photologging wrote:

Thank for your elaboration. Actually the pictures look very good, although they have a little of distortion at tth sides. I guess the distortion is more severe with the 22mm.

Thank you for sharing all the information

The 22mm will definitely offer more distortion ...although it offers a wider Field Of View than the 32mm lens.    The 22mm is a VERY useful lens.  It's incredible to get such performance in such a small and inexpensive lens.  The 22mm, 32mm and 11-22mm lenses are all considered very sharp.  Each of these lenses then possesses their own strengths.

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Regards,
Marco Nero.

 Marco Nero's gear list:Marco Nero's gear list
Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS Ra Canon EOS R6 Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 Canon RF 85mm F1.2L USM +20 more
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