High Contrast "Test" with different Mirrorless Bodies

Dear All

I had excellent feedback from my previous article, thank you.

I was looking out the window and saw an interesting scene. Wondered how different mirrorless cameras would "see" the image and I decided to do this article. When outside the conditions change and it is less controlled, but still interesting.

I used the following bodies:

- Panasonic GX8

- Panasonic GH4

- Panasonic G9

- Olympus EM1 MKII

- Fujifilm XT-20

- Sony A7 MKII

- Olympus PEN F

Here the link :

VideoPic wrote:

Dear All

I had excellent feedback from my previous article, thank you.

I was looking out the window and saw an interesting scene. Wondered how different mirrorless cameras would "see" the image and I decided to do this article. When outside the conditions change and it is less controlled, but still interesting.

I used the following bodies:

- Panasonic GX8

- Panasonic GH4

- Panasonic G9

- Olympus EM1 MKII

- Fujifilm XT-20

- Sony A7 MKII

- Olympus PEN F

Here the link :

A lot of work and thank you for that.

According to the cropped jpg, if comparing them on the DR, judging on the highlight blown out condition, it seems that according to the amount of highlight overblown, the order should be:

1. A7-3 (min highlight overblown),
2. G9 and GX4,
3. GX8,
4. XT-20
5. EM1-2 and Pen-F

According to Phrotonstophoto, it tells another storey. The DR:

1. A7-3
2. XT-20, G9 and Pen-F
3. GX8
4. GH4 (oldest 16Mp M43 sensor) 

So, the result suggested that either there were editing problem, or problem on the setting used.

Thanks....love your slogan...M43 equivalence: "Twice the fun with half the weight"

Having said that, now that I have the chance to try a FF body things change a bit. From what I saw to date is FF owners debate with M43 owners on the fact that f1.8 is NOT want they think it is. In other words as I understand if we want a true f1.8 then M43 needs to go down to something like f0.7 or something....

If we turn it around in real life then things look different. If I should happily with my M43 at f7.6 or f8.1 to have a landscape nicely in focus it means I need to go to f16 on my FF body. Is that right?

So the question is...does M43 owners benefit more from working in the lens sweet spot and to get the equivalent FF owners go outside that lens sweet spot. Is that right?

Best

Siegfried

alcelc wrote:

VideoPic wrote:

Dear All

I had excellent feedback from my previous article, thank you.

I was looking out the window and saw an interesting scene. Wondered how different mirrorless cameras would "see" the image and I decided to do this article. When outside the conditions change and it is less controlled, but still interesting.

I used the following bodies:

- Panasonic GX8

- Panasonic GH4

- Panasonic G9

- Olympus EM1 MKII

- Fujifilm XT-20

- Sony A7 MKII

- Olympus PEN F

Here the link :

A lot of work and thank you for that.

According to the cropped jpg, if comparing them on the DR, judging on the highlight blown out condition, it seems that according to the amount of highlight overblown, the order should be:

1. A7-3 (min highlight overblown),
2. G9 and GX4,
3. GX8,
4. XT-20
5. EM1-2 and Pen-F

According to Phrotonstophoto, it tells another storey. The DR:

1. A7-3
2. XT-20, G9 and Pen-F
3. GX8
4. GH4 (oldest 16Mp M43 sensor)

So, the result suggested that either there were editing problem, or problem on the setting used.

Very interesting feedback - thank you. My comments

- I did notice the sun intensity changed at times which could contribute

- The last cropped images with the leaves have not been edited, you tested those?

- I took the incorrect image for the EM1 2 - give a few minutes to updated that image

- Other than these points....I do not have an answer.

- I am new to Protonstophoto - will need to try it

Siegfried

It is clear that all of the cameras and lenses that you used can record decent images under the conditions you used them and when viewed as you presented them.

Regarding a landscape "nicely in focus", you would have to be more specific.

Hi David

When I use f7.1 on my M43, what is the equivalent aperture for FF? The image focus clarity should then be the same for M43 and FF if I selected the same focus point, right?

Best

Siegfried

VideoPic wrote:

Hi David

When I use f7.1 on my M43, what is the equivalent aperture for FF?

f-Stop is a property of the lens, not the sensor. Because it is a ratio, f/7.1 is f/7.1 on any lens regardless of the sensor or the focal length.  As for "focus clarity" you need to be more precise.  Do you mean greater depth of field?  "Nicely in focus" is subjective and may or may not be related to depth of field.

VideoPic wrote:

Hi David

When I use f7.1 on my M43, what is the equivalent aperture for FF? The image focus clarity should then be the same for M43 and FF if I selected the same focus point, right?

Best

Siegfried

I'm not sure what you mean by focus clarity but for the same diagonal angle of view you would want twice the focal length.  You would get the same depth of field at the same absolute aperture, so you need f14.2.

Andrww

Thank you Andrew.....this is what I have been looking for. Will do more reading on the subject....:-))

Siegfried

VideoPic wrote:

Thank you Andrew.....this is what I have been looking for. Will do more reading on the subject....:-))

Siegfried

I hardly dare mention this on this forum, but the DPReview articles on equivalence and noise might be helpful.  Lenses are the most important characteristic of a system, followed by the features of the body.

Andrew