Panasonic G7 - trouble focusing in low light.

One weakness with this camera compared to other cameras I've used is that the Panasonic G7 seems to keep changing focus when trying to record a lit object at night. I usually use Auto focus but it will only stay in focus a short time then it goes out of focus then back into focus. Something seems to falsely tells the camera that it's not in focus when it is.
If I'm quick enough I can switch from Auto Focus to manual focus while it's correctly focused to lock the focus. But it's more difficult when recording in video as you can have a mixture of near and far subjects.

I've tried using manual focus only but it's difficult to focus on a dimly lit object even with the magnified screen that pops up.

Do others have this problem and have found a way to over come it?

Brian

I've read similar posts for different G/GX cameras.. It seems to be common for Panasonic Lumix G/GX with set zoom.

I own Panasonic 42.5 f1.7, and it performs much better in low light.

If you use AFF or AFC mode then what you describe is true.

Set the camera to AFS and you should be ok.

tef68 wrote:

If you use AFF or AFC mode then what you describe is true.

Set the camera to AFS and you should be ok.

Why is it like that?

Aberaeron wrote:

Brisn5757 wrote:

One weakness with this camera compared to other cameras I've used is that the Panasonic G7 seems to keep changing focus when trying to record a lit object at night. I usually use Auto focus but it will only stay in focus a short time then it goes out of focus then back into focus. Something seems to falsely tells the camera that it's not in focus when it is.
If I'm quick enough I can switch from Auto Focus to manual focus while it's correctly focused to lock the focus. But it's more difficult when recording in video as you can have a mixture of near and far subjects.

I've tried using manual focus only but it's difficult to focus on a dimly lit object even with the magnified screen that pops up.

Do others have this problem and have found a way to over come it?

Brian

Use single autofocus rather than flexible or continuous.

The small lever on the back of this camera is set to AFS, unless there is some other setting in the menu that I need to change.

Brian

tef68 wrote:

If you use AFF or AFC mode then what you describe is true.

Set the camera to AFS and you should be ok.

It normally is set to AFS  (lever on back of camera),  unless there is another setting in the menu.

Brian

Brisn5757 wrote:

tef68 wrote:

If you use AFF or AFC mode then what you describe is true.

Set the camera to AFS and you should be ok.

It normally is set to AFS (lever on back of camera), unless there is another setting in the menu.

Brian

While taking another look at the camera the lever is pointing to AFS/AFF, so there must be some common in the menu to tell the camera that I want AFS only.

Brian

AFS = AF single shot. It is a drive mode but is nothing relate to focus. I.e., how many focus point you use.

As per my experience on still shooting (the running LED light hanging over trees should be regarded as still object), use single focus point in its smallest focus box size should be the fastest and most accurate way.

However when it is in the dark, a slightly larger size focus box might be easier for the camera to find and lock on a focus (more options within a larger focus area) at the risk of not focus on exactly the point you wish to focus.

U are right. My ommission.

alcelc wrote:

AFS = AF single shot. It is a drive mode but is nothing relate to focus. I.e., how many focus point you use.

As per my experience on still shooting (the running LED light hanging over trees should be regarded as still object), use single focus point in its smallest focus box size should be the fastest and most accurate way.

However when it is in the dark, a slightly larger size focus box might be easier for the camera to find and lock on a focus (more options within a larger focus area) at the risk of not focus on exactly the point you wish to focus.

I usually have the camera set for Spot Focus so anything in the center of the cameras view will be in focus. I see your point about needing a bigger area for the camera to focus in low light situations.

I could turn the peaking focusing aid and use manual focus but the peaking colour would get in the way of viewing the image. It would be nice if you could quickly turn peaking on or off.

Brian

Aberaeron wrote:

Brisn5757 wrote:

Brisn5757 wrote:

tef68 wrote:

If you use AFF or AFC mode then what you describe is true.

Set the camera to AFS and you should be ok.

It normally is set to AFS (lever on back of camera), unless there is another setting in the menu.

Brian

While taking another look at the camera the lever is pointing to AFS/AFF, so there must be some common in the menu to tell the camera that I want AFS only.

Brian

Turn off AFF in the menu and use single autofocus, which is what you have been repeatedly advised to do.

Well do. It's been a while since I've studied the manual for the camera.

Brian

Brisn5757 wrote:

...

I could turn the peaking focusing aid and use manual focus but the peaking colour would get in the way of viewing the image. It would be nice if you could quickly turn peaking on or off.

Brian

I think you can, just assign the Peaking to one of your fn keys or put it on the Q.Menu...

P.71 of pdf Operating Manual of G7.

Aberaeron wrote:

Turn off AFF in the menu and use single autofocus, which is what you have been repeatedly advised to do.

It's also generally a good idea to set "Quick AF" to "OFF". Unlike what someone might think, the opposite of "Quick AF" is not "Slow AF", but "user-triggered AF". Setting Quick AF to OFF disables constant focusing when shutter button / back focus button are not pressed.

In earlier models this setting was called "Pre-focus", which in my option is much much better name.

Aberaeron wrote:

Brisn5757 wrote:

alcelc wrote:

AFS = AF single shot. It is a drive mode but is nothing relate to focus. I.e., how many focus point you use.

As per my experience on still shooting (the running LED light hanging over trees should be regarded as still object), use single focus point in its smallest focus box size should be the fastest and most accurate way.

However when it is in the dark, a slightly larger size focus box might be easier for the camera to find and lock on a focus (more options within a larger focus area) at the risk of not focus on exactly the point you wish to focus.

I usually have the camera set for Spot Focus so anything in the center of the cameras view will be in focus. I see your point about needing a bigger area for the camera to focus in low light situations.

I could turn the peaking focusing aid and use manual focus but the peaking colour would get in the way of viewing the image. It would be nice if you could quickly turn peaking on or off.

Brian

That's another reason why you may have difficulty achieving focus lock.

The camera is actually very good indeed at focussing in low light. You do need to learn how best to use it though, just as with any sophisticated tool.

I have done very little night photography with this camera so it looks like I'll need to experiment more with the settings.

There are times when the camera will go out of focus for a moment even when recording video in the daytime. However I'll check the setting on this camera.

Brian