An owner of a Canon T5i who needs action shot advice

Hello,

My name is Tony, and I am new to the forum. I've owned this camera for several years, and have done some decent stuff but now ready to get real. I have job offer for shooting AAU basketball, which is usually held in a low-light gym. I own two lenses: the basic package that came with the camera...18-55mm & the 300mm.

If anyone has advice on what could improve the quality of an action shot with no ghosting or motion I would certainly appreciate it. I've been using Aperture Priority, ISO (Auto) and 1/200. It's not horrible but I usually have to adjust in post production.

Is there an affordable lens or any accessories that would help?

Thank you for your time,

Tony

• ttampa77 wrote:

Hello,

Is there an affordable lens or any accessories that would help?

Thank you for your time,

Tony

Hi Tony,  welcome!

IMHO the option that will provide you with the most bang for the buck is buying the 50mm STM lens.  You'll gain at least 2 stops.  If you're on the baseline it's good from about the bottom of the key to the 3-point line.  Wider lens if you're under the net, and longer if you're in the corner.

There are better lenses (and better bodies) of course, but this would get you pointed in the right direction.  Later on you could invest in a second body (gain another stop with the DPAF sensor) plus a different focal length lens (like an 85 or 100), or maybe a 24 (or wider) for under the net.

Use AI Servo AF with the center AF point.  Shoot bursts.  Keep your shutter speed as high as possible.  Get to know your noise reduction software intimately.  

Best of luck.  And holler back with any questions!

R2

Is renting an option? Your lenses are going to make it challenging to shoot in a dark gym. Your AF system will also struggle keeping up with motion in that type of scene.

Ideally, you'd rent a body and lens for this type of job. But if you can at least rent a lens, the Canon 135mm f/2 would help with AF speed and the low light setting.

Other than that, don't be afraid to go high ISO. A noisy, sharp picture is better than a blurry picture. Keep your shutter speed at 1/500 or higher. You can do lower shutter speeds if you only get things like jumping shots where there are moments with little motion but those aren't going to be the more exciting shots.

ttampa77 wrote:

R2,

Thank you so much for the reply. I'm learning some of the verbiage of photography but I think I got the point. Yeah, I have been using AI, with ISO (auto), and it puts me in a 4 to 5.6 f-stop.

I'd also recommend putting the camera in Manual Exposure mode (incl manual ISO). Indoors the lighting won't be changing much (and if it does, you can just change the exposure with a quick spin of the main adjustment dial). Full manual lets you maintain complete control over the exposure, shutter speed (blur), aperture (DOF), and noise (detail). If you're ever unsure of the exposure, you can chimp and check the display, the histogram, or look for the Blinkies. And if you want the exposure dead on, then use a grey card (or your own grey card "calibrated" hand, since you always have it with you!).

Basic questions if you don't mind. 1) Why is it important to get those 2 stops.

You'll soon find that shutter speed is King when shooting indoor sports (to freeze subject motion). However, you'll also run into depth of field difficulties when you open up the aperture to increase those shutter speeds. Trade-offs trade-offs!

I should mention that my very favorite indoor sports lens is the aforementioned 85mm f/1.8 (which I usually shoot at f/2 to gain a little IQ). But the DOF is Very thin at those large apertures, so your autofocus has to be right on, and your technique really really good. I'd go down to the gym (ie: YMCA if you have one) and practice as much as you can.

2) How do I control the noise disturbance.

Another of those settings that you'll have to carefully balance (against shutter speed and aperture). Experience (and failure) will tell you where you'll need to draw the lines. You can use any of your favorite noise reduction programs to battle the noise. I use either Noise Ninja or Photoshop, but there are other really good ones out there. You'll soon find out where your limits are (your output requirements will help determine this for the most part).

And 3) these events are in lower-light gyms, so is there a flash I should consider.

I never use flash, due to venue restrictions (or consideration for the athletes when it isn't actually banned).

Flash can also be detrimental to IQ, often turning the background dark or discolored, or leaving those pesky ghosts (light trails). If you are going to slow sync the flash, then select Rear (2nd) Curtain Sync in the menu.

I have the 580EX II flash, but there are all kinds of other models available. The minimum I would suggest would be one of the 430EX generations (or similar 3rd-party). Note: Canon's flash naming convention puts the guide number of the flash (in meters) as the first digits in the name. For instance the 430EX III-RT has a guide number of 43 (meters).

I will look into the lens you recommended.

The 50 STM offers the best bang for the buck. Not as fast focusing as the 85, but it's tons better than the 50mm f/1.8 II that it replaces.

Thank you so much! I know several photographers who don't want to help, or spill their "secrets".

It's understandable. They're just protecting their livelihood. I see it all the time here too. Fortunately these forums have always been a big help. And I would also suggest joining a local photo club. IME you'll receive many huge benefits there too.

Much Respect,

Tony

Good luck to you Tony.  I shot lots of sports with the T4i (the T5i's virtual twin).  It's actually quite a capable camera, and the center AF point is excellent.

Holler back with any questions!

R2

I had the T5I and upgraded to the 80D for quicker auto focus and burst. I could see in the view finder I was missing shots. Anyway, the 85.18 can be a gem for low light high school gyms. I guess this gym was pretty well lit since I was at f2.8. There are some you will need every bit of f2.0 and that's where you can open this bad boy up.

I would NOT even try to do with kit lens, but I see some parents doing it. I made the mistake several years ago buying a Panasonic FZ200 and trying my kid Junior high school gym. NOT Good. Waste of 400 bucks. It collects dust now.

BigD