Have Nikon D3300, Considering E-PM2 As Backup: Shutter Shock?

larrytusaz wrote:

I currently have a Nikon D3300 outfit I'm not looking to change. Previously I had Sony E-mount, prior to that in 2012 I had Olympus via the E-PL1. I enjoyed using it but changed to Sony E-mount since the 12mp Olympus models were lagging behind the sensor technology of the Sony E-mount. However, I still liked the Olympus models. I got on well with how they worked via the Super Control Panel and I liked their JPEGs.

When the E-PM2 finally came out I didn't get it because I had the Sony, but I've always considered it at various times. Now, with me having the Nikon DSLR and no Sony E-mount equipment anymore, I'm considering a cheap one I saw to use for "walkaround," especially landscapes. The main bug-a-bear--shutter shock.

I've done some reading on the issue but not obtained a real consensus point of view about it. If it's an issue of serious consequence then I'd likely avoid it and simply pick up a Sony RX100 if one ever shows up for low enough. Then again if it can be easily managed simply by using that 1/8 shutter delay setting or whatever it's called and turning off IBIS in a given range, then I'd consider it instead of something like a Sony RX100.

Thoughts?

I used an EPM2 for about a year as mostly my primary camera.  It's a really nice little body, with very good output.  However, it is a 5 year old body, and technology marches forward, so I am not sure I would get one today, cheap or not.

As to shutter shock with it?  If you turn off the IBIS totally, and set the shutter delay to 1/8 sec, you pretty much take care of the problem.  When I got mine, the first few shots were not wonderful, until I remembered to do the above.  After that, SS was a total non-issue.

Now, the thing is, the technology in that body really lags behind anything more recent.  The IBIS in it is totally useless; and you have no electronic shutter or true electronic first curtain shutter capabilities.  You would be FAR better served by getting a later model EPL (EPL7 has 3 axis stabiliation and true electronic first curtain capabilities, and it's a bargain now, since the EPL8 has come out).  
So, my advice?  Get the EPL7 (or 8).  You will be far happier with it than the cheap, 5 year old, EPM2.  The IBIS difference alone should be enough to make up for the price differential, but when you add in the different shutter options on the new one, it really is quite a difference.

-J

I have the E-PM2 and it's image quality is up there with my E-M10. The first E-PM2 I bought had terrible shutter shock, so I returned it for another. The 2nd one was far better, however it still showed shutter shock so I tested the shutter delay at 1/8's second but was still seeing it, I finally settled on 1/4's. I've not noticed any issue with still image stabalisation compared to the E-M10, even though it's only rated as 2-axis against 3. However in video I'd say the E-M10 has slightly better stabalisation. The one drawback is that it does not stabalise the live view like the E-M10 can. Also the af points are less numerous and larger and the screen resolution is lacking again compared to the E-M10. I've looked at the E-PL5 (or above) to replace my E-PM2 but I never end up buying them as the E-M10 are nearly as cheap 2nd hand and IMHO are a better bargain.

Walt_A wrote:

..... The one drawback is that it does not stabalise the live view like the E-M10 can.

That is solved by using Panasonic lenses with OIS, see my page re the stabilisation rules for various combinations http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/30-oly-stabilisation.html

The E-PM2 plus Panasonic 12-32mm would definitely make a nice neat small camera solution. But better of course the E-PL7 or 8 with way more features available with not much extra size.

Regards..... Guy

That's the beauty of 2 manufacturers sharing the same mount. However unfortunately neither my panasonic 14 nor my panasonic 25 have image stabalisation. I do agree the 12-32 and e-pm2 could be a very nice combo.

larrytusaz wrote:

I currently have a Nikon D3300 outfit I'm not looking to change. Previously I had Sony E-mount, prior to that in 2012 I had Olympus via the E-PL1. I enjoyed using it but changed to Sony E-mount since the 12mp Olympus models were lagging behind the sensor technology of the Sony E-mount. However, I still liked the Olympus models. I got on well with how they worked via the Super Control Panel and I liked their JPEGs.

When the E-PM2 finally came out I didn't get it because I had the Sony, but I've always considered it at various times. Now, with me having the Nikon DSLR and no Sony E-mount equipment anymore, I'm considering a cheap one I saw to use for "walkaround," especially landscapes. The main bug-a-bear--shutter shock.

I've done some reading on the issue but not obtained a real consensus point of view about it. If it's an issue of serious consequence then I'd likely avoid it and simply pick up a Sony RX100 if one ever shows up for low enough. Then again if it can be easily managed simply by using that 1/8 shutter delay setting or whatever it's called and turning off IBIS in a given range, then I'd consider it instead of something like a Sony RX100.

Thoughts?

Yes, is an old camera, but image wise the quality is very good even by today's standards.

One thing that bothers me is the lack of wifi. Transfering photos and controlling the camera with the phone are very useful features. I also often miss having a EVF... But, I was on a tight budget and found mine really cheap ($150 w/ lens two kit, low shutter count, but not excellent condition), otherwise would have waited for an OM body.

No focus peaking either... Manual magnify assist works great and the OM art filter focus peaking alternative work well enough in some situations.

I followed Guy's advice and have no problem with shutter shock. I often use manual lenses (no internal stabilization) and they usually allow for fast shutter speeds, so shutter shock is not a problem. When in doubt, usually up the ISO and the shutter speed and/or use slow burst mode.

I used a D3200 a month ago and found I could use quite slower shutter speeds with the E-PM2 (both with kit lenses). The IQ of the Nikon was noticeably better, but found the E-PM2 to be far more flexible, even with the limited external controls it has. Both light years away from the slow shutters speeds allowed by the awesome Ibis on some of the newer M43 cameras ( and Panasonic's portable cameras).

If you don't plan on getting additional lenses, then the RX100, G9X, LX10, LX100, etc. Are good choices too.

larrytusaz wrote:

The one I found is bundled for $200 with the 14-42 EZ MD. Understand--I haven't kept up with everything, but apparently this is the most current kit lens and is a retractable pancake power zoom. It's even smaller than Sony's 16-50PZ but based on this review it seems to actually have better image quality than the 14-42 models which came before it (the one I had was the 2nd version, my last Olympus was the E-PM1). I guess I did OK when I had the Sony version but it tends to have a bad reputation and Sony hasn't bothered to update it in years.

What are the impressions of this one? I did read the comments about how the E-PL7 would be better with its electronic shutter & better IBIS, I'm just (currently anyway) looking for a somewhat inexpensive "spare" to the D3300, not to replace it (as I did in 2013 when I went "all in" with Sony E-mount and sold my Nikon D5100). I was looking more to the Sony RX100 until I saw this (although, and I'm sorry if I'm "all over the place," but I do think that I might be best served saving up for a Sony RX100 3 as it has an EVF).

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that you should change systems, though you might want to after using a M43 camera. The Nikon has really good image quality and the benefits of a M43 camera might not be something you prioritize. It all depends on what you want/need...

I guess what I meant to say is that the E-PM2 can substitute your Nikon, while the 1"sensor camera is more complementary than a backup in a way.

There are trade-offs to be made...

The E-PM2 has better sensor, the RX100 is smaller, has more modern features, the sensor is also smaller, but you can always have it with you.

If you don't plan to get more lenses and can live with the 1" sensor's IQ (I have a NX Mini and I think the 1" sensor's IQ is quite good), then a RX100 is a nice option... Also check Panasonic's ZS100 which has a slower lens but 250mm equivalent reach and Panasonic's menu systems is more user friendly than Sony.

Don't feel pressured to buy, take all the time you need so you are certain what you're getting is what you'll enjoy using the most.