A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

Started Oct 21, 2017 | Discussions
fcracer Senior Member • Posts: 1,089
A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm
78

Capture One Workflow

Given the recent announcement from Adobe that so many people are upset about, I thought I'd share a potential alternative that people may want to consider. I’ve invested an enormous amount of time into learning CaptureOne (C1) and am hoping that this post can save you some time in learning this fantastic software.

Summary:

  • CaptureOne (C1) is awesome and fast
  • Detail extraction is right up there with Iridient X-Transformer + Lightroom (LR)
  • Colour profiles are available from individuals and do a great job replicating film simulations
  • I can’t use Lightroom anymore because it feels historic compared to C1 (maybe the new Lightroom CC will lure me back one day)
  • I have a simple workflow that gets me to 90% of the final image with a few clicks (shared below)

Bagan, Myanmar taken with XP2 - Saved at 90% JPEG quality

Background:

With PhaseOne’s recent commitment to Fujifilm in their C1 10.1 software, I wanted to give C1 a shot and see how it stacks up to the venerable Lightroom.

I’ve been a huge Adobe fan for decades (and still am). Pagemaker and Photoshop were game-changers for my work and I often used it in the workplace to convey information in a different way than typical PPT’s. Adobe has been a mainstay for me for the past two decades.

I have no issues with one-time licensing models or monthly subscription models. Businesses and their staff need to get paid for their work and the value of their work does not have to be linked to the cost of producing that output.

Photography is a hobby for me, and the main goal is to capture lifelong memories in images. I regularly print photos in A3+ and A2 sizes. I also regularly print photobooks for my bigger trips.

Kyoto Japan, taken with XP2 - Saved at 90% Quality JPEG

My simple workflow:

  1. Create a “Session” for the trip on an external SSD connected to a 2017 MacBook r12 with 8GB ram
  2. Drag and drop or import the images into the “Capture” folder in the session
  3. Turn on the “Focus Mask” to see if any images should be scrapped
  4. Select the images I really like with a “Green” colour flag (+ key shortcut)
  5. Filter by “Green” images and show JPEG and RAF (Fujifilm JPEGS are often excellent and no RAF editing is required)
  6. If the image requires editing, I use this process in C1:
    1. Colour tab > Select ICC profile (I have mine set to automatically apply Provia on import)
    2. Exposure tab > Exposure Tool > Click A
    3. Exposure tab > High Dynamic Range Tool > Click A
    4. Exposure tab > Levels tool > Click A (I sometimes find the images too high contrast so I back down the black point or move the mid point a tiny amount; this is especially required when the image has moody lighting or a smokey landscape)

That’s it! That gets me to 90% of the final image, and often 100% of the final image. If required, I’ll do some local adjustments (similar to layers in Photoshop)

You can actually automate steps 2-4 using but I prefer to see the effect each step has on the image. For example, in step 3, I find the shadow recovery a bit too much and often back it down a bit to keep more contrast

Hong Kong China, taken with XP2 - Saved as 90% Quality JPEG

Thoughts on C1:

Initially, C1 is difficult to use because they’ve taken a different approach to the layout of the controls, however there is a “workspace” available called “Migration” that will make any LR user feel at home.

There are very, very good webinars for C1 on youtube. I’ve watched every single one and they’re engaging and informative. The fellow that leads the webinars is really classy. He never disparages his competitors and is willing to highlight areas where C1 can improve.

Where I feel C1 really shines is in its ability to get great images in a very short period of time.

Sunset over Bagan Myanmar, taken with XP2 - Saved as 90% Quality JPEG

Colours:

C1 provides a colour calibrated “Base Characteristic” that you can work from or you can download the Film Simulations that a kind user produced. I personally love the Film Simulations and have tested them against SOOC JPEGS; they are remarkably similar. I think PhaseOne should pay that individual to use his Film Simulation profiles. You can find the Film Simulations by googling, with instructions to install them (they are sometimes updated which is why I didn't put a link).

I love the way C1 does black and white points. It uses a levels diagram that you can quickly move a point over and set the black and white points. You can then also set the mid point in the same way. I think Photoshop was the first to have levels shown this way, and I find it more intuitive than LR’s method.

Beautiful image from the start:

C1 uses a “Base Characteristic Curve” which I believe is just a Luminance curve applied to images; the Fujifilm standard “Base characteristic” curve is “Film Standard”, which produces an image that looks like a typical S curve. None of this needs to be understood or known to the user. It just works. The images come out of the gate looking great. If you want to start at the same baseline as LR, you can select a “Linear Curve” “Base Characteristic”.

Kyoto Japan, taken with XP2 - Saved as 90% Quality JPEG

Detail extraction:

C1 is on par with Iridient X-Transformer + LR, and because it’s an all-in-one software package, it’s easier to manage and a better user experience. You also save some HDD space because you don’t need the giant DNG files that IXT produces.

The starting point for sharpness in C1 depends on the ISO and likely other factors. I find that at low ISO, the sharpening usually starts at 140. This level of sharpness is already more than enough and sometimes, I even back it down. I haven’t seen any worm artifacts or other sharpening issues. Grass blades and foliage look great on C1.

C1 does not have a “Dehaze” tool, but you can get pretty close using the “Clarity” and “Structure” tools depending on what you’re trying to achieve. Initially I couldn’t match LR “Dehaze”, but as I’ve gotten better with C1, I can now manipulate “Clarity” to get close to LR. For really difficult dehaze situations, I “edit with” to Affinity Photo which has an excellent dehaze tool.

Bagan Myanmar, taken with XP2; the highlight recovery on C1 is impressive - Saved as 90% Quality JPEG

File management:

I hate catalogues. Somehow I always make a mess of them and I hate their lack of portability. When I travel, I take the MacBook with me and an external drive. Ideally, I want to work on the images on the external drive, and then come home and plug them into the iMac. C1 has a workflow called “Sessions” that works perfectly for my workflow requirements. Once I edit the images, prune them down to the “Selects”, then I can import them into a catalogue for longer term storage and searching.

Bagan Myanmar, taken with XP2, you can of course blow out highlights if you like - Saved as 90% Quality JPEG

Things that are amazing in C1:

  1. Sharpening: The default setting is clever and adapts to ISO and other factors. It’s almost always sharp enough and sometimes even too sharp. It cleverly adds computed “film grain” to high ISO shots to make them appear sharper.
  2. Sessions workflow: I love the way “Sessions” work. I can use an external drive and seamlessly move between a coffee shop with the laptop and back to home on the desktop. Just plug the external SSD in and edit away on any computer.
  3. Focus mask: I use a lot of manual focus lenses on the Fuji and Leica so this is a real time saver. It’s basically focus peaking but on a static image. Turn on the focus mask, and it tells you where it sees high contrast edges. This works amazingly well, especially when you want to see if you nailed focus on the eye in a portrait.

Guangzhou China, taken with XP2 and the mighty 16MM - Saved as 90% Quality JPEG

Things I miss from LR:

  1. Sharpening mask. C1 has the ability to not sharpen skies, etc. but it’s a bit clumsy. You have to zoom in, set the mask to 0, crank sharpening to the max, then dial in masking until the sky is clear of artifacts. Then you go back to the sharpening tool and dial in the real sharpening you wanted. Fortunately, I’ve found that masking of “1.0” seems to almost always be where I end up, so maybe it’s got some algorithm that does the analysis for us.
  2. Dehaze in one tool. In C1, you have to manipulate “Clarity”, “Structure” and sometimes the black point to get to the same results as LR can achieve in one slider. I’ll admit that I’ve occasionally had to go back to LR for tough dehaze situations.
  3. Guided upright. C1 has a keystone tool that lets you enter four points to straighten vertical and horizontal, but I can’t consistently get the perfect results that I get with LR. I also miss the auto-align features of LR that seem to get horizons or buildings bang-on every time.

Conclusion:

All in all, now that I’ve moved over to C1, I find LR to be a clunky old thing that needs a revamp. It looks like adobe agrees with their recent announcement relegating the current LR to “classic” status.

Feel free to ask any questions; I’m happy to share any info I have or sources of where I got the info.

Beijing China, required severe clarity and structure bump to "dehaze" the image, taken with XP2 - Saved as 90% Quality JPEG

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Elemanzer Regular Member • Posts: 166
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm
3

First off, very nice images (I should think they'd flatter any RAW processor) and a solid review. I've tried C1 some time ago, and also very recently after the LRCC announcement:  I'm not convinced LR Classic will stick around/be kept at feature parity, and the cost of the mandatory LRCC cloud storage is just silly (£110/month for 10TB, and £60/month for 5TB?!). So from that limited experience, I have just a few things to add.

I think the base curve can make quite a big difference. Film Standard in particular tends to produce a certain kind of tonality that I see in images #2, 4 and 5 especially: it allows very dense shadows and bright highlights with the use of contrast/curves/levels adjustments, but even with high overall contrast the midtones are still kept quite compressed. Nothing wrong with that look--just that changing the base curve makes it easier to get midtone contrast when that's what you want. Might also find haze reduction easier with a linear curve.

On sharpening, it's worth noting that the diffraction correction setting enables a level of deconvolution sharpening commensurate to your aperture--so in my experience, whenever you have it on, you need to back down on the regular sharpening a bit. The structure slider can also interact with the sharpening and diffraction control settings in fairly visible ways.

I also find that C1's UI gets a lot better if you use a trackpad, believe it or not. Being able to make adjustments to sliders/points by swiping is, in my view, much easier than using a mouse.

I actually think that C1 + X-Transformer is a bit better for detail than just C1. But I can be picky about that sometimes.

Finally, a few things I miss from LR: MIDI controller support plugins (I really will be very sad to stop using a MIDI controller), the history panel, and built-in HDR and panorama support (I always found LR's tools to work surprisingly well). It's also worth making clear, for other people, that there's no live view/live controls tethering plugin for C1 and Fuji cameras.

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Vic Chapman Forum Pro • Posts: 10,694
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

Long and detailed so I've bookmarked this for rereading later. I'm one of those currently using standalone LR6 who is really annoyed at Adobe but I will not be forced into a subscription based editor.

3 questions for now - is there a trial version of C1? Can I avoid using C1's catalogue system and is my PC powerful enough to work at the same speed it works with LR?

Thanks for your advice,

Vic

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OP fcracer Senior Member • Posts: 1,089
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

Vic Chapman wrote:

3 questions for now - is there a trial version of C1? Can I avoid using C1's catalogue system and is my PC powerful enough to work at the same speed it works with LR?

Vic, you must have an executive assistant in real life

1. Trial version is available at: https://www.phaseone.com/en/Download.aspx

2. You can use Sessions which is a very intuitive way to use the software. You may still want some form of asset management however (I use Mac Photos).

3. Your computer is ideal for it. In fact, I bet you’ll find it flies compared to Fuji files on LR. For DNG files, it’s about the same speed.

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sharpblur
sharpblur Regular Member • Posts: 148
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

I've been using C1 for more than a year now and it's fantastic piece of software. (I'm canon user but looking for smaller/always with me camera hence my lurking here).

Just opening raw file in C1 gets me 50% closer to final than what I remember with LR. There is no 'muddiness' for lack of a better word, that I was getting with LR. Not trying to badmouth LR but C1 works for way better.

Sessions is all I use. Catalog is not my cup of tea.

I've never used styles and I'm not sure how those fuji profiles work with C1. Very curious though.

OP fcracer Senior Member • Posts: 1,089
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm
3

sharpblur wrote:

I've never used styles and I'm not sure how those fuji profiles work with C1. Very curious though.

I followed Thomas Fitzgerald’s instructions at http://blog.thomasfitzgeraldphotography.com/blog/2017/2/how-to-download-and-install-fuji-colour-profiles-for-capture-one

His site is an excellent resource on Fuji cameras in general.

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OP fcracer Senior Member • Posts: 1,089
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm
4

The source files for the ICC profiles: https://erohne.wordpress.com/2017/07/05/fujifilm-icc-profiles-for-capture-one-pro-10/

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sharpblur
sharpblur Regular Member • Posts: 148
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

Thanks. Will check that.

georgehudetz Veteran Member • Posts: 4,348
Great Summary! Here are a few more things to consider:
7
  • Capture One does not apply the lens-specific embedded vignetting profile by default. On the lens tab, set the Light Falloff slider to 100. This is particularly important for shooting at larger apertures.
  • I've found that sharpening works better (at ISO 200) with Threshold = 0, Radius = 0.4, and then adjust amount to taste. I normally can get quite a bit more detail out of the image that way than using the defaults.
  • As another poster said, enable Diffraction Correction on the Lens tab for F8 and higher.
  • Use output sharpening in conjunction with Recipe Proofing! In the Output tab, build output recipes for your target resolutions, then turn on Recipe Proofing (View drop-down menu) and then do final sharpening. You'd be surprised how much detail is lost when you downsize to a lower resolution, such as HD or 4K.
  • The Black & White controls are awesome!
  • I love to use the Color Balance wheels to bring more pop to an image while using their "Generic" curve for the X-T2. This is of course a matter of taste/preference, but I often prefer this to using one of the Fujifilm ICC profiles, particularly on landscape shots.
  • I find that there is often a *slight* magenta cast to the shadows in CO (when using raw files). So, I normally add a little green the the shadows, again using the Color Balance wheels. Not all images need this, but most seem to, IMO.

As a result of the last two points, my CB wheels often look like this:

Note in particular the Shadow wheel, with the small amount of green added to remove the magenta cast.  Then I drop the overall shadow level, while raising the mid-tones and highlights, which gives more pop & clarity to the image.

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Vic Chapman Forum Pro • Posts: 10,694
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

Cheers - both I and and my executive assistant (sacked him) missed the line about 30 day free trial.

I shall have to watch the videos before I trial it because at £250 it isn't cheap.

Thanks, Vic

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twamers Senior Member • Posts: 1,460
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

Very beautiful photos too.  Thank you.

RetiringGuy Regular Member • Posts: 301
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm
1

Vic,

As fcracer says there is the C1 'Session' mode which does not create or use any catalogue.

I use Sessions mode virtually exclusively but I use only one session recipe which I call 'C1 Default Session' . For every photographic session (say a day out in Scotland) I will put all that days images in a single folder then open that folder in my default session. I will do the same with any photographic 'session', using the same default session recipe.

You can of course create a new session recipe for each of your photographic sessions and store those recipes wherever you want.

One thing to check is that your graphics card is at least relatively modern. I use a 2013 MacBook Pro and its graphics card is more than adequate. C1 can be set to use the multiple graphic processors on modern graphics cards to speed up the C1 image processing.

Also download the user manual for C1 and give it a scan through to get an idea of C1's capabilities. I think the following linkgets you to the right web-page ;-

https://www.phaseone.com/en/SupportMain/Manuals/Manuals_Software.aspxic

Check out C1's colour adjustment/correction features as well as the different 'tone curves' (I sometimes use the linear tone curve on some difficult images).

I have used C1 for years (before using Fuji gear) so I am prejudiced.

Read the user manual, select a few images to test with give C1 a try. Make sure you include some 'difficult' images in your testing.

Enjoy your testing.

RG

maltmoose Senior Member • Posts: 1,642
Re: Great Summary! Here are a few more things to consider:
1

georgehudetz wrote:

  • Capture One does not apply the lens-specific embedded vignetting profile by default. On the lens tab, set the Light Falloff slider to 100. This is particularly important for shooting at larger apertures.
  • I've found that sharpening works better (at ISO 200) with Threshold = 0, Radius = 0.4, and then adjust amount to taste. I normally can get quite a bit more detail out of the image that way than using the defaults.
  • As another poster said, enable Diffraction Correction on the Lens tab for F8 and higher.
  • Use output sharpening in conjunction with Recipe Proofing! In the Output tab, build output recipes for your target resolutions, then turn on Recipe Proofing (View drop-down menu) and then do final sharpening. You'd be surprised how much detail is lost when you downsize to a lower resolution, such as HD or 4K.
  • The Black & White controls are awesome!
  • I love to use the Color Balance wheels to bring more pop to an image while using their "Generic" curve for the X-T2. This is of course a matter of taste/preference, but I often prefer this to using one of the Fujifilm ICC profiles, particularly on landscape shots.
  • I find that there is often a *slight* magenta cast to the shadows in CO (when using raw files). So, I normally add a little green the the shadows, again using the Color Balance wheels. Not all images need this, but most seem to, IMO.

As a result of the last two points, my CB wheels often look like this:

Note in particular the Shadow wheel, with the small amount of green added to remove the magenta cast. Then I drop the overall shadow level, while raising the mid-tones and highlights, which gives more pop & clarity to the image.

Good thread & Nice tips.

Heres a tip from me.

If you want to use linear curve as an alternative try these settings as a default starting place, simply as follows (obviously its just a starting place but gets you close, right out the blocks with no additional s curve needed but can if you want)

Contrast 25

Brightness 20

Saturation 15

Then as you would normally

Adjust HDR and Levels, exposure to taste & adjust color balance if needed.

I also find noise reduction too strong, i dont mind a bit of noise and i think fuji bakes some noise reduction into its raws so i reduce the following in noise reduction.

Luminance reduced from 50 to 35

Color reduced from 50 to 30

OP fcracer Senior Member • Posts: 1,089
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

Elemanzer wrote:

First off, very nice images (I should think they'd flatter any RAW processor) and a solid review. I've tried C1 some time ago, and also very recently after the LRCC announcement: I'm not convinced LR Classic will stick around/be kept at feature parity, and the cost of the mandatory LRCC cloud storage is just silly (£110/month for 10TB, and £60/month for 5TB?!). So from that limited experience, I have just a few things to add.

I think the base curve can make quite a big difference. Film Standard in particular tends to produce a certain kind of tonality that I see in images #2, 4 and 5 especially: it allows very dense shadows and bright highlights with the use of contrast/curves/levels adjustments, but even with high overall contrast the midtones are still kept quite compressed. Nothing wrong with that look--just that changing the base curve makes it easier to get midtone contrast when that's what you want. Might also find haze reduction easier with a linear curve.

On sharpening, it's worth noting that the diffraction correction setting enables a level of deconvolution sharpening commensurate to your aperture--so in my experience, whenever you have it on, you need to back down on the regular sharpening a bit. The structure slider can also interact with the sharpening and diffraction control settings in fairly visible ways.

I also find that C1's UI gets a lot better if you use a trackpad, believe it or not. Being able to make adjustments to sliders/points by swiping is, in my view, much easier than using a mouse.

I actually think that C1 + X-Transformer is a bit better for detail than just C1. But I can be picky about that sometimes.

Finally, a few things I miss from LR: MIDI controller support plugins (I really will be very sad to stop using a MIDI controller), the history panel, and built-in HDR and panorama support (I always found LR's tools to work surprisingly well). It's also worth making clear, for other people, that there's no live view/live controls tethering plugin for C1 and Fuji cameras.

Thanks for the kind words and the great advice. I’ll have to give the track pad a shot! I’m starting to use the linear curve more especially when the image already has high contrast to begin with.

Oddly, C1 works better on my 8GB MacBook 12 than my new 40GB 2017 iMac 5k. I assume it’s the 5k screen that is taxing the GPU leaving little capacity for C1 to use hardware acceleration. Apple will soon allow external GPU’s which should make things pretty fun.

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georgehudetz Veteran Member • Posts: 4,348
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

fcracer wrote:

Elemanzer wrote:

First off, very nice images (I should think they'd flatter any RAW processor) and a solid review. I've tried C1 some time ago, and also very recently after the LRCC announcement: I'm not convinced LR Classic will stick around/be kept at feature parity, and the cost of the mandatory LRCC cloud storage is just silly (£110/month for 10TB, and £60/month for 5TB?!). So from that limited experience, I have just a few things to add.

I think the base curve can make quite a big difference. Film Standard in particular tends to produce a certain kind of tonality that I see in images #2, 4 and 5 especially: it allows very dense shadows and bright highlights with the use of contrast/curves/levels adjustments, but even with high overall contrast the midtones are still kept quite compressed. Nothing wrong with that look--just that changing the base curve makes it easier to get midtone contrast when that's what you want. Might also find haze reduction easier with a linear curve.

On sharpening, it's worth noting that the diffraction correction setting enables a level of deconvolution sharpening commensurate to your aperture--so in my experience, whenever you have it on, you need to back down on the regular sharpening a bit. The structure slider can also interact with the sharpening and diffraction control settings in fairly visible ways.

I also find that C1's UI gets a lot better if you use a trackpad, believe it or not. Being able to make adjustments to sliders/points by swiping is, in my view, much easier than using a mouse.

I actually think that C1 + X-Transformer is a bit better for detail than just C1. But I can be picky about that sometimes.

Finally, a few things I miss from LR: MIDI controller support plugins (I really will be very sad to stop using a MIDI controller), the history panel, and built-in HDR and panorama support (I always found LR's tools to work surprisingly well). It's also worth making clear, for other people, that there's no live view/live controls tethering plugin for C1 and Fuji cameras.

Thanks for the kind words and the great advice. I’ll have to give the track pad a shot! I’m starting to use the linear curve more especially when the image already has high contrast to begin with.

Oddly, C1 works better on my 8GB MacBook 12 than my new 40GB 2017 iMac 5k. I assume it’s the 5k screen that is taxing the GPU leaving little capacity for C1 to use hardware acceleration. Apple will soon allow external GPU’s which should make things pretty fun.

Yeah, I'm looking for a new laptop.  I installed C1 on a new Dell XPS 15 (4k screen) at Costco and, interactively, it felt a little slower than on my (work-provided) 2013 MBP when used with it's native Retina screen.  However, connecting the MBP pro to a 4K display just kills the performance, and the Dell is much faster when both are running 4k.

I'm probably going to stay away from 4K laptops for that reason, as I prefer to do the majority of my work on a laptop in a nice, comfy chair as opposed to at a desk.  Unfortunately, that doesn't leave many options if you want a good screen from a color gamut standpoint.  Probably go Mac.

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Vic Chapman Forum Pro • Posts: 10,694
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

RetiringGuy wrote:

Vic,

As fcracer says there is the C1 'Session' mode which does not create or use any catalogue.

I use Sessions mode virtually exclusively but I use only one session recipe which I call 'C1 Default Session' . For every photographic session (say a day out in Scotland) I will put all that days images in a single folder then open that folder in my default session. I will do the same with any photographic 'session', using the same default session recipe.

You can of course create a new session recipe for each of your photographic sessions and store those recipes wherever you want.

One thing to check is that your graphics card is at least relatively modern. I use a 2013 MacBook Pro and its graphics card is more than adequate. C1 can be set to use the multiple graphic processors on modern graphics cards to speed up the C1 image processing.

Also download the user manual for C1 and give it a scan through to get an idea of C1's capabilities. I think the following linkgets you to the right web-page ;-

https://www.phaseone.com/en/SupportMain/Manuals/Manuals_Software.aspxic

Check out C1's colour adjustment/correction features as well as the different 'tone curves' (I sometimes use the linear tone curve on some difficult images).

I have used C1 for years (before using Fuji gear) so I am prejudiced.

Read the user manual, select a few images to test with give C1 a try. Make sure you include some 'difficult' images in your testing.

Enjoy your testing.

RG

Thanks RG. I shall arrange to put aside a day or two to watch the video tutorials before I try C1.
It's obvious I need to forget the LR/ACR/PS way of working and open my mind to a new way of working.

Vic

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ot73 Forum Member • Posts: 84
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

thanks

im also using C1. the results are really great.

i bought C1 original film styles (color and b&W), they have many FUJI styles)

djcook Junior Member • Posts: 44
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

fcracer,

How are the print output capabilities of C1 Pro?

Thanks

archrich Senior Member • Posts: 1,363
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

I found your review and workflow interesting, useful and confirms what I’ve found.  I’ve been using CP1Pro for a few years now (gave up on LR) and agree with your observations. I’m a Nikon DSLR shooter, but I have a great silver Fuji X30 and CP1 does a really nice job with its images.

There is a learning curve with this editor, but it’s worth the time. My images look great right after conversion and often I don’t have to do more to them. I don’t use catalogs, I like how CP1 implemented sessions.

Thanks for your review and sharing your images, they’re very good.

Archie

 archrich's gear list:archrich's gear list
Sigma 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM | S Fujifilm X30 Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 Fujifilm X100F Fujifilm X20 +7 more
LeicaC Regular Member • Posts: 245
Re: A Capture One Workflow for Fujifilm

fcracer wrote:

2. You can use Sessions which is a very intuitive way to use the software. You may still want some form of asset management however (I use Mac Photos).

Can you say a bit more about how Photos interacts/integrates with Capture One? I am considering this same combo because I hear the DAM features of Capture One are poor (longtime Aperture user, short-time Lightroom user, deciding whether to dive deeper into LR or jump to Capture One before that time investment).However, since the Capture One operation and workflow still seem baffling to me it’s hard to imagine how the two work together.

Do you do your keywords on import to Photos, or do you move images into Photos as a final step after culling/editing in Capture One? That might be dangerous for me as I like being able to dump everything into Aperture/Lightroom and do my keywords/captions immediately while the trip/session is fresh in my mind, then forget about editing until sometime later. If that becomes the final step it’ll likely never get done or I’ll forget half the details.

Can you send images to Capture One from Photos (edit in), and if so what comes back? Are you using Photos as a referenced library or a managed library, and is that library on your external drive?

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