lepidoteron wrote:
Hello, new to this forum but have used the website quite a for research. I recently upgraded from using an Olympus SH-2 for wildlife photography, mainly butterflies. The camera has been great to me but i've started to notice lower IQ than other similarly priced cameras so i've wanted something better. I was using the SH-2 in auto mode and didn't know anything about cameras but for the past few weeks i've done much research.
I've setup my FZ300 as Graham Houghton on Youtube has recommended but this thing can't focus for jack. I'm using A mode, f4, 100 iso, with 1-Area focus, tried changing the focus area size to various sizes. It seems to want to focus on things that are further than my target. My SH-2 has little trouble focusing on a butterfly or flower when there are other objects behind it but zooming in on the target with the FZ300 gives me red on the lcd and says 3.3 ft, seeming to want to focus on the objects behind it.
I never see anyone praise the SH-2 while the FZ300 is tooted as being amazing, so can someone help me figure this out or is it just not going to suit my needs? Basically I want to be able to zoom in and focus on a butterfly on flowers even when there are nearby objects. It should not have this problem if the measly sh-2 can do it in a snap.
Thanks
HI, Welcome to the forum.
I suspect the main issue here is that you are in the process of becoming accustomed to the new camera which has different characteristics from the previous one.
Regarding the tendency to focus on things behind your desired subject: You can easily change the position and size of the active AF area to ensure the camera focuses where you want it to. I find this is very accurate and consistent with all the recent Panasonic cameras including the FZ300. I use and recommend [Direct Focus Area] to facilitate this.
Regarding the closest focus distance: I suggest you take time out from making photos to explore the camera's focusing characteristics in Normal AF, AF Macro and Macro Zoom (JPG only).
Put a test target in front of the camera and experiment to see how close it will focus at each focal length. When the distance indicator flashes red that is just telling you the camera will not focus that close at that focal length. The distances which flash up are a general guide not an accurate indication of the minimum focus distance.
In AF Macro I find 70mm and 600mm to be the most useful focal lengths. 600mm allows me to stand back from little subjects while still covering a small area. 70mm gets me in closer.
At 25mm the camera will focus with the lens filter touching the subject but that is not useful in practice.
Macro Zoom is like iZoom but at the close up end of the distance scale. It uses image interpolation to create the final picture. It only extends to an indicated focal length of 75mm but does give a very close up view of little subjects. The effect is like screwing a close up filter onto the lens but without the need to actually bother with any extra equipment.
Andrew