Sticky: TO Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Started Feb 15, 2017 | Discussions
Tomasg71
Tomasg71 Regular Member • Posts: 304
Sticky: TO Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA
7

Hello all, my first post here. I thought a tutorial on a Trioplan might be of interest, there seems to be no tutorial about cleaning, lubricating this very sought after lens on the web. So if you have one with a stiff focus or looking to get one with the same problem this might help you.

A few cautions: although it s an easy lens to work with, do this at your own risk. My lens has a M42 mount, if yours has a different one, than this tutorial can only be taken as a general guide, since the assembly may be different.

Please read the whole tutorial from start to finish a couple of times before you do it!

Although i worked on the optical block i did n t want to include it in this tutorial, since it s better not to touch it becouse of a few spacks of dust inside!

The explenations in the tutorial are meant for begginers, more experienced people need to be patient, the tools that you ll need are a 1 mm flat screw driver and a bit larger one, cleaning liquid and grease.

So here we go part one:

Set the lens to infinity and keep it there! One little tip, use a caliper (hope it s the correct name) to measure the lens, set to infinity (a digital one is much better) this is one way to make sure you put everything back in the correct way This can be done at warious steps during the CLA.

There are 3 different levels (parts) how far one can go in this tutorial, the first and easiest one is to simply separate the part that contains the optical block from the part that has the focusing mechanism. A word of caution, if you can t unscrew the two parts with some reasonable force, skip this, to much force will introduce play in the focusing mechanisn, as you ll damage two "pins" inside the focusing helicoid! Also you can do this at a later stage! Even if you do this it probably won t be enough to do a proper cleaning and regreasing. Most can skip this part. Grab the front and rear of the lens and unscrew it, counter clock wise.

Be careful that you don t grab both parts with one hand! I am showing this step only because for some this will be enough to do some cleaning or relubing. You have now acess to on part of the focusing helicoid:

Absoulte begginers can try to add a drop of "oil" if the old grease is dry, i use Krown oil, do not use WD40, lightning fluid or other stuff, use a brush to applay minute quantity and turn the foucusing, repeat as needed. Be careful not to over do it!

Most will want to go further so proceed to pat 2 by putting back the two parts (no need for that if you skipped the first part) and untightening a small screw at the back ring

You ll need a 1 mm screwdriver for that

I usually don t remove the screws whwnever possible, simply tighten it back, make sure it s stabe inside and place it away.

Next remove the 3 screws at the back of the mount

Once removed pull up the mount straight , try not to turn the ring while doing it!

It may be a good idea to take a picture of the helicoid before you start to turn the focusing ring, as you can see the infinity mark is alligned with the red triangle on the front part of the lens

There are two holes with a brass "pin" each, these are delicate and can be damaged if you applay too much force to separate the front and back of the lens as shown in the first part! Difficult to see but here they are

Next turn the focusing ring counter clock wise, slowly, the two "pins" should come out on their own

Keep turning until it s time to remove a spacer ring

Now the most difficult part, the thread of the focusing helicoid has more than one step so it s very important to know which is the right one when putting it back. To avoid guessing we have to remember where the focusing ring separates from the helicoid. On my copy taking as a reference point the infinity mark this happens when the mark is alligned with the red letter "V" on the black front ring! Yours may be different, if you don t have any reference points, you can "mark" the position with a screwdriver.

Get this step right and everything will be fine. If you loose the reference don t panic, the thread is fairly large and there aren t too many steps, you ll just have to find the right one.

Remove the two "pins"

For easier cleaning you can now remove the focusing helicoid, turn it counter clock wise, this is also a better way to do it than the way described in part one.

This is only one part of the focusing mechanism, we have this part also

Like at the beggining you may try to relube it without dissasembling it, there is some space between the two rings after you turn the back ring, this time clock wise

But it s better to dissasemble it, so this is part 3, remove the screw on top

Another tip (you can use it for the focusing ring also), sometimes i try to tighten the part i have to remove all the way down, this way sometimes it s easy to find a reference point, (or you can measure the two parts with the caliper), in this case one of the holes alligns with the infinity mark

With this lens you can actually skip this part and just remove the back ring, it comes out at the infinity mark

and above all there is only one step on the thread, so no problems to put it back! So now we have all the parts dissasembled, clean them (i use white spirit) and lube them. This lens needs little grease, in particular the rear part, as the threads are very fine. I did a CLA on this lens few months ago so the grease that you see in the pictures is "new" grease, and this amount was enough! One suggestion: use some of the old dry/hard grease on the two slots in the helicoid thread, where the two pins travel!

Time to reassemble the lens! Put the back ring into the focusing ring, it s a left turning thread so counter clock wise to tighten it, and again there is only one step

Be careful not to position the screw between the two stop pins on the focusing ring, so to infinity and then back a little, then tight the screw.

Next the focusing helicoid

It has only one step so no problem to put it back but a caution note again, this needs a lot of force at the end or the two main parts of the lens might be slightly missalligned, on my copy they where by 3 or 4 mm, the only way to tighten the helicoid enough was to put a bit of polishing paste on the thread that tightens it to the optical block (not the thread on the helicoid itself) and by tightening and untightening, moving back and forth i was able to tighten it enough to allign everything! To make any sense of what i am saying, look at the slot on the thread and the f2.8 markingon my lens they had to be alligned perfectly (more eagle eyed readers will notice this missallignement in the first pic of the thread).

Next the most delicate part, putting back the focusing ring, turn the back ring on the focusing ring so they come togheter

Allign the infinity mark to the letter "V" and try to find the step on the thread by truning the focusing ring left and right a bit. Take it easy, take time, do it slowly, at first this can be difficult as the focusing ring wobbles a lot and it s not easy to find the step. You migh try to put them together on any other step first, just to get the feel how they come togheter.

Once the focusing ring is on turn it all the way down, then turn it back for about 1/4 of a turn to allign the holes to the slots, if you got the right step on the thread everything should be alligned perfectly

One red triangle and the infinity mark and of course the holes for the slots, if so push back in the two brass pins. Not shown in a picture put back on the spacer ring before putting back on the mount ring, make sure the two "pins" are really all the way in!

Allign using the infinity mark and upper triangle, put back the screws and tighten them. You may now try if the lens reaches infinity on a camera, if that s the case put back the last ring

If you left the screw inside remember to untight it! At first there might be some play in the focusing mechanism, this is due to the to brass "pins" and the slots in which they travel, as suggested before, try to use some old or very sticky grease in the slots. In a couple of weeks as the grease dries this play tends to go away.

And that s it!

When i first did the CLA on my lens i also did my treatment with polishing paste and steel wool, you can see a tutorial here:

http://forum.mflenses.com/tair-11-cla-tutorial-t76571.html

Please forgive the basic english I hope this tutorial makes any sense, any language corrections are welcomed (for example the "pins")

Tomas

D Cox Forum Pro • Posts: 24,933
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Interesting. I haven't seen inside a Trioplan.

The Trioplan was the first additional lens that I bought to use on the Exakta, back in the 1960s. It was cheap for a tele lens.

Sold it with most of my Exakta stuff when I upgraded to Topcon.

Many years later, I was given a bag of Exakta bits and pieces, including a Trioplan. So my current copy was free. Nobody wanted Exakta lenses in the 1980s. Now suddenly the Trioplan is being sold for high prices.

It works fine on my NEX-5N, and I expect it to work fine on a FF Sony when I eventually get one.

Tomasg71
OP Tomasg71 Regular Member • Posts: 304
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

A Sony A7mk2 is in my future, for now i use my M42/M39 mount lenses on a Nikon body, where they don t even reach infinity :), so you are in a better situation

PW M43 Regular Member • Posts: 192
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Excellent description (don't worry about your English - it's fine ), and clear and informative photography. As good as Marshall and Oldfield in their subject (http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/100973-pen-repair-jim-marshall-lawrence-oldfield/)

Tomasg71
OP Tomasg71 Regular Member • Posts: 304
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Thank you, and i must admit i wasn t aware that there is a craft such as pen repair, very interesting i will explore it and who knows, maybe i ll get into a new hobby!

nigbat Senior Member • Posts: 1,939
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Great stuff - thanks for posting this (& the link for the Tair CLA).

Rol Lei Nut Veteran Member • Posts: 4,879
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Very nice!

A few tips & tricks even experienced tinkerers can appreciate...

Thank you!

Tomasg71
OP Tomasg71 Regular Member • Posts: 304
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Your welcome, i am glad that it s helpful! I will do again the tutorial on the Tair 11 with better pictures, but if you ll ever CLA a lens with aluminum finish you should really give the steel wool a try. The Tair was in good shape to start with, the results can be really great on a lens with a lot of oxidation. Take a look at there 3 lenses:

Helios 44-2:

before CLA

and after

CZJ Tessar 50/2.8

and a Jupiter 6!

Tomas

Tomasg71
OP Tomasg71 Regular Member • Posts: 304
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

You re welcome!

MOD Tom Caldwell Forum Pro • Posts: 39,380
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Thanks Tomas, You have created a new very impressive standard for documenting strip down, clean and re-assembly of lenses.

Many bookmarks are sure to be made.

-- hide signature --

Tom Caldwell

MOD Tom Caldwell Forum Pro • Posts: 39,380
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Tomasg71 wrote:

Your welcome, i am glad that it s helpful! I will do again the tutorial on the Tair 11 with better pictures, but if you ll ever CLA a lens with aluminum finish you should really give the steel wool a try. The Tair was in good shape to start with, the results can be really great on a lens with a lot of oxidation. Take a look at there 3 lenses:

Helios 44-2:

before CLA

and after

CZJ Tessar 50/2.8

and a Jupiter 6!

Tomas

Enough maybe to convert a few of our collector/users into collector/restorers.

I am half way there but need to refine my skills more before I can do as good a job as you have done with theses lenses.

-- hide signature --

Tom Caldwell

Tomasg71
OP Tomasg71 Regular Member • Posts: 304
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Thank you Tom, this is very appriciated since it s coming from someone with such a vast knowledge about older, manual focus lenses!

Tomasg71
OP Tomasg71 Regular Member • Posts: 304
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Well, there s no better way to learn than to do it. The steel wool method has the advantage that you can buy lenses that are a bit cheaper, I suggest a battered, oxidated lens from ebay, even an Industar 50 or a Jupiter 8 will do as a first lens,

MOD Tom Caldwell Forum Pro • Posts: 39,380
Re: Meyer optik Gorliz Trioplan 100 f2.8 tutorial, CLA

Tomasg71 wrote:

Thank you Tom, this is very appriciated since it s coming from someone with such a vast knowledge about older, manual focus lenses!

Not really I am just a collector and a dabbler still feeling my way and remain in awe of those who have better knowledge and skills.

-- hide signature --

Tom Caldwell

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