760D + Sigma 18-250 problem

I exchanged my new M5 to 760D and found out that the Sigma lens must be updated because otherwise live view doesn't work. Not a huge problem as I mostly shoot through viewfinder. Anyway, I was wondering does the lens still do all metering and autofocusing correctly ?

Can anyone tell which metering mode is basically the best one  to use for landscape photography? I've tried all ( evaluative, spot, center...) but can't find much difference ?

jakoari wrote:

I exchanged my new M5 to 760D and found out that the Sigma lens must be updated because otherwise live view doesn't work.

This is a new one for me.

Not a huge problem as I mostly shoot through viewfinder. Anyway, I was wondering does the lens still do all metering and autofocusing correctly ?

I'd expect so, but test to be sure.

Can anyone tell which metering mode is basically the best one to use for landscape photography? I've tried all ( evaluative, spot, center...) but can't find much difference ?

In general the evaluative is pretty good for landscapes. Would work for 90% of your landscapes or more.
Landscapes tend to fall into the expected scenes, the ones the software in  your camera recognizes and .. ehr .. evaluates.

One step beyond is knowing what the metering modes do and use it accordingly.
For instance: if the subject is lit quite differently from the overall image then spot metering the subject might help.

jakoari wrote:

Can anyone tell which metering mode is basically the best one to use for landscape photography? I've tried all ( evaluative, spot, center...) but can't find much difference ?

I use Center-Weighted metering for its consistency and predictability. All light meters are calibrated to medium grey, so the most foolproof way to meter is with a grey card. Just place the grey card in the same light as your subject, fill the frame with it, take a meter reading (lock exposure), and shoot away. Manual exposure mode is a natural for this.

I don't even use a grey card any more though, since I know the palm of my hand is precisely 1 1/3 stops lighter than an 18% grey card. So I just meter off my palm (palms don't tan like the back of the hand), and then I add that 1 1/3 stop of exposure to the reading. Voila, perfect exposure for every shot.

Now sometimes you'll want to adjust your exposure for artistic reasons. You can use the spot meter to see where on the exposure scale those areas will end up. Google the "Zone System" for a comprehensive explanation of metering and exposure.

But truthfully, I rarely ever even take a meter reading any more. I just snap a shot and review it for exposure. It's like taking a "polaroid" preview in the old days.  Be sure to enable the "Blinkies" to alert you of any overexposed areas (it's an extremely useful tool). You can also check the histogram to get a sense of the exposure too.

One thing I like to do is "Expose To The Right" (side of the histogram). The bright side of the histogram can hold much more detail than the darker areas, and it helps to keep you above the noise levels too. Speaking of which, be sure to shoot at "base ISO" to minimize noise and to maximize dynamic range, color, and contrast. Don't blow out any (important) whites though 'cuz they'll be gone forever (ref "Blinkies" above). Search "ETTR" for more info on this.

Shoot RAW if you aren't already.  When desired, bracket your exposures and/or shoot HDR to maximize the potential of the shot. Apply your noise reduction (selectively) in Post, and save any sharpening for the very last step (after any cropping/resizing). The amount of sharpening is very dependent on image size, and how you want to output your images. Note: You can disable all in-camera noise reduction and sharpening via the menus.

Well, there's a heck of a lot that I haven't covered, but this should get you started. Holler back with any questions!

Happy shooting,

R2

Link from Sigma site.

https://www.sigmaphoto.com/article/notice-to-our-canon-mount-lens-users

Interesting

Colin

Hi jakoari,

"My Photoshop CS4 ( mac) won't open up those CR2 raw files that I shot with this D760 but it opens up CR2 files shot with old 350D ??? I'm confused, are there several CR2 raw formats ?"

Every CR2 file on Different Canon model's are not the same, I think for your model you would need Photoshop CC, my 7D MkII requires CS6 and ACR 9.3?? or higher and that's an older model than your's.

The workround for you is to convert your RAW files to Adobe DNG format with the free 'Adobe DNG converter', or use the Canon software to convert your files to .TIFF and then open them into Photoshop.

Good Luck.

Hi jakoari,

If you decide to convert to TIFF's for use in Photoshop then see below:-

If you search for your .TIF files using 'Adobe Bridge' and open them through this they should open in 'Adobe Camera Raw' where you can do your adjustment's, then it will pass your files off to Photoshop as normal.

If you try to 'open' the .TIF files in Photoshop they will simply Open without using 'Adobe Camera Raw'.

jakoari wrote:

Hi Mocha,

Thank you for your answer. Do you have any idea is there really any logical explanation from Canon or Adobe for this. Do they work together so that Adobe is able to sell more programmes. I mean surely I won't ( = can't afford) to buy a new version of Photoshop just because of this.

Anyway, thanks for your answer. I appreciate.

Hi jakoari,

Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom. Once they brought out a new upgrade (CS4, CS5, CS6.... LR1, LR2, LR5) they stopped supporting the older version and you cannot upgrade the 'ACR' >> 'Adobe Camera Raw', this is the part of the program that convert's your RAW files into a medium that Lightroom/Photoshop can work with.

This was one way of insuring people upgraded to the 'latest and greatest' once they bought a new camera.

In fairness to Canon they have alway's provided and updated their 'Digital Photo Professional' software and RAW converter free of charge to EOS Canon owner's.

As for Adobe they offer you the free 'Adobe DNG converter', where you can with the latest one convert all your files to .DNG and then open them in your older Adobe product.

I suppose with Adobe CC product's you never have to worry about upgrading so your latest camera RAW's convert, because your product is always up to date and you are always paying for it.