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So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.

Started May 16, 2016 | Discussions
Charley123 Senior Member • Posts: 1,166
So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.
3

For those who've read my prior posts, you don't need any initial intro info, but for anyone who hasn't seen my prior posts, I included intro info of what I'm about.

===

I'm an old pro photographer who used film for years, then adapted to DSLR full frame digital, then later adapted to DSLR APS-C, and now working on adapting to m4/3. I'm doing this so I can have lighter gear as I'm getting older. I do a lot of photography of real estate interiors.

I'm not striving for perfection. I'm striving for a high level of adequacy done fast in volume. Get in, get it done, get out. Move on to next job. I'm after the best results possible without using a tripod and without having to spend time post processing on a computer. My photos are used mostly online on websites at 1080 pixels wide, or sometimes printed 10" x approx 7.5" on 8.5" x 11" paper. So my resolution needs are modest. I always set my APS-C cameras on jpg small fine and still had to resize smaller for the Web (used Gimp for resizing).

For real estate interiors I look for ultra wide rectilinear (corrected, not fish eye) lenses with at least 90 degree horizontal FOV. Ideal is 95 to 100 degree horizontal FOV. I also look for (after camera correction) -0.7% distortion or less. Ideally -0.5% or less. Also, vignetting of -1.5 EV or less, but I prefer less than 1 EV if I can get it. Those are the ultra wide angle lens and camera combinations I look for so that I can do a good job in-camera and not have to spend extra (unpaid) hours on a computer. This formula worked well for me with DSLR full frame, and later with DSLR APS-C.

DSLR APS-C lenses have fallen slightly short of my ideal UWA lens standards, but have gotten me by, and I appreciated their smaller size and weight. Now it appears to me that Olympus OMD with Panasonic 7-14 F4 (and A2 rear filter) will get me by better than I used to do with DSLR APS-C due to great lens and great OMD bodies with lens corrections and great stabilization. I love the M10ii and M5ii ability to do keystone correction in camera. I bought an M10ii and M5ii.

For comparison purposes: Zeiss Distagon T 18mm f/3.5 ZF (FX) (a full frame lens for Nikon FX bodies) has -1.8% distortion, which does NOT impress me, especially for an expensive German lens.

The best ultra wide angle lens I've ever used was a Sigma 14mm F2.8 on a Canon full frame body. The Sigma 14mm F2.8 has only -0.6% distortion (without any camera correction). That's great for a 14mm lens with a 114 degree diagonal field of view. I'm not sure what it's horizontal FOV is, but I'd guess it's around 107 degrees horizontal FOV. It was an awesome lens.

The worst lens I ever used was a Sigma 8-16mm. I don't know the distortion figures for it, but it was awful. Images were so distorted that the pictures were unusable. I've never tried a Sigma 10-20mm, but I've read it's pretty good, especially the F3.5 version.

For ultra wide angle lens -0.5% distortion is excellent, IMO. -0.7% is good. -1% is marginally acceptable to me. More than 1% is unacceptable to me. IME, most people won't notice distortion until it gets worse than -0.6%, and it's not bothersome (to real estate people) until worse than -0.8%.

===

The below lens performance figures are AFTER in-cameras corrections for jpg.

Note: I included Canon and Nikon DSLR APS-C ultra wide lenses for performance comparison to m4/3 lenses. The Canon and Nikon APS-C bodies have different size sensors with different crop factors. Canon at 11mm and Nikon at 12mm give approx the same 105 degrees diagonal FOV, which I'm guessing is approx 92.4 degrees horizontal FOV. I need a minimum of 90 degrees horizontal FOV. So 92 degrees is adequate, though more would be better.

Canon 10-18mm has -1.7% distortion at 11mm, and -1.5 EV. I'd have to use it at 11mm most of the time to get wide enough field of view. Note: I wouldn't use it at 10mm due to excessive distortion and vignetting. It's not usable quality until 11mm.

Nikkor 10-24mm has -1.8% distortion at 12mm, -0.97 EV. I'd have to use it at 12mm most of the time to get wide enough field of view. Note: I wouldn't use it at 10mm or 11mm due to excessive distortion. It's not usable quality until 12mm.

Panasonic 7-14mm F4 has -1.12 distortion at 7mm, vignetting -1.16 EV; Has approx -0.59 distortion at 8.5mm, vignetting -1.15; I'll be using it from 7mm to 8.5mm to get wide enough field of view. It's an excellent lens other than flare. I'll fix that by adding a Wratten 2A filter.

Olympus 7-14 F2.8 is to large and heavy. I'm not going to carry it. If I was willing to carry a beast like that I'd have stayed with full frame gear.

Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 9-18mm f/4-5.6 ED has -1.79% distortion at 9mm, vignetting -0.74% EV. I'd be using it at 9mm most of the time for real estate interiors. This lens does not meet my standards. The -1.79% distortion after in-camera correction is unacceptable. I don't want to spend computer time correcting distortion.

===

The following lenses aren't anything I'd use for real estate interiors, but they do interest me for general photography. So I wanted to find out their distortion and vignetting.

Olympus M.Zuiko 17mm f/1.8 has -0.5% distortion, vignetting -1.1 EV

Olympus M.Zuiko 25mm f/1.8 has -0.5 distortion, vignetting -1 EV.

Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 25mm f/1.4 ASPH has -0.04 distortion, vignetting -0.55 EV. Wow! That's a nice lens, but larger than I want. I got the smaller (and good enough) Olympus 25mm F1.8.

Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 45mm f/1.8 has +0.66% distortion, vignetting -0.37 EV

Olympus M.Zuiko 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II R has -1.8% distortion at 14mm, vignetting -0.66 EV. At other focal lengths the distortion is very low, especially for a zoom lens. This is a good performing zoom lens.

Leica also makes a Panasonic 15mm F1.7 and maybe a 42mm or 45mm which are probably fantastic lenses. I didn't investigate these yet. Maybe later.

tjuster1 Senior Member • Posts: 2,241
Kowa Prominar 8.5mm?

It's not AF (though do you really need it at 8.5mm?) and it's not really that small, but if it's low distortion you want, it's your guy:

http://www.photozone.de/m43/946-kowa85f28?start=1

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Messier Object Forum Pro • Posts: 12,724
The older ZD 9-14mm 4/3 lens

you would need to use it with a 4/3 to m.4/3 adapter, but still a lightweight.

There is a detailed review of this lens here on DPR.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympus-9-18-4-5p6-o20/2

It seems to have low distortion, though I mainly used it for landscapes and never bothered to make any PP correction.

I don't shoot my 4/3 kit very often these days, but when I did the 9-14mm got a lot of use. No doubt when I get a m.4/3 body later this year the little 9-14mm will once again get lots of use

Peter

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OP Charley123 Senior Member • Posts: 1,166
Re: Kowa Prominar 8.5mm?

tjuster1 wrote:

It's not AF (though do you really need it at 8.5mm?) and it's not really that small, but if it's low distortion you want, it's your guy:

http://www.photozone.de/m43/946-kowa85f28?start=1

I don't need auto focus. The Kowa is impressive for low distortion, but I'm not thrilled about Kowa's size and weight. I'll look into it some more.

However, I've already bought a Panasonic 7-14 F4 and ordered Wratten 2A filter to tape to the rear of the lens.

Edited in Later: I looked into Kowa (again) and compared it to Panasonic 7-14 F4. Here is what I learned.

First of all, when I use the Pan 7-14 lens, I'll be using it around 8mm to 8.5mm because that's wide enough (most of time) and it has a much less distortion at 8.5mm (than at 7mm).

===

Panasonic 7-14 performance: I'll usually be using it from 8mm to 8.5mm.

At 7mm F4 it has -1.12% distortion, -1.16 EV vignetting

At 8.5mm F4 it has -0.59 distortion, -1.15 EV vignetting

At 8.5mm F5.6 it has -0.59 distortion, -0.635 EV vignetting . That's excellent performance!

===

Kowa 8.5mm performance:

At 8.5mm F4 it has +0.12 distortion, -1.34 EV vignetting

At 8.5mm F5.6 it has +0.12 distortion, -1.19 EV vignetting

===

IME no one complains about vignetting that's less than 1.5 EV.

The Panasonic's performance at 8.5mm F4 is good, and at 8.5mm F5.6 is excellent.

The Kowa performance at 8.5mm F4 and F5.6 is excellent for distortion, and OK for vignetting, but certainly not as good for vignetting as Panasonic. Bottom line is Panasonic performs better at 8.5mm and can perform well enough at 8mm, which are the two focal lengths I bought it for. The Panasonic wins for performance.

Also, the Kowa is way larger, heavier, more expensive, and I've already paid for the Panasonic.

So I'm going to use my 7-14mm F4 Panasonic. I'll add a Wratten 2A filter to the rear of it to control flare.

The Kowa is an overall great lens, except for a bit much vignetting, but it's not terrible. It has very low distortion and is a relatively sharp lens, it's CA is low too. So it is a good lens for sure.

The one area where the Kowa beats the Panasonic is the Kowa doesn't have any known flare problems. The Panasonic is terrible for flaring, but the filter I plan to add should fix that. If the Pan gives me flare trouble after installing Wratten 2A filter to rear of lens, then I'll reconsider the Kowa.

One thing to consider with Kowa is how good is their tech support? Do they speak English? I assume so, but who knows. It's a smallish company.

Jeff Tokayer Veteran Member • Posts: 6,289
Re: The older ZD 9-14mm 4/3 lens. You mean the 7-14...(nt)
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Jeff.

ahaslett
ahaslett Forum Pro • Posts: 12,660
He means 9-18mm

I was using mine in the garden yesterday.  It's very light.  IQ is acceptable, never checked distortion and vignetting.

Andrew

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Messier Object Forum Pro • Posts: 12,724
Re: The older ZD 9-14mm 4/3 lens. You mean the 7-14...(nt)

Jeff Tokayer wrote:

Oops, I meant 9-18mm.

Peter

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traveler_101 Senior Member • Posts: 2,203
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.
1

I believe you should rethink your opposition to the Olympus 7-14 pro. It is heavy by m43 standards, much lighter than DSLR lenses. Darren Miles's review shows that the 7-14 is the correct lens for your needs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjdya4umwls

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Mike Ronesia
Mike Ronesia Veteran Member • Posts: 3,043
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.
1

traveler_101 wrote:

I believe you should rethink your opposition to the Olympus 7-14 pro. It is heavy by m43 standards, much lighter than DSLR lenses. Darren Miles's review shows that the 7-14 is the correct lens for your needs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjdya4umwls

As far as being the correct lens for his needs, it seems he has done the math and already found the right one. Nice of you to tell him he is wrong though.  It is too big and heavy for me as well. The 7-14 2.8 pro might seem light to you but not to everyone. The whole point of this system is small and light and I much prefer Pannys aproach in this reguard.

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Mark James
A.K.A. Mike Ronesia

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dlinney Regular Member • Posts: 330
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.
4

Since you are happy to accept in-camera correction of distortion - since your distortion figures are from what I can see the post-in-camera figures - then I am surprised at your rejection of post-processing corrections on the computer. If you are using software such as Lightroom then its a trivial amount of time to apply corrections to batches of images in one go. You can even, for example, correct one image manually taken at say 8mm on a 7-14mm and then copy that correction to all other images taken with that lens at 8mm by using the metadata to select the target images.

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Derek

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clemcam Contributing Member • Posts: 645
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.
2

If you use DxO Optics Pro to convert from raw, distortion from the 9-18 is totally invisible.  The correction is automatic for each body, lens, and focal length. Since I don't see how one can do much of anything with digital photography without using a computer, this is very easy post processing.  For me it is a no-brainer tradeoff for the $$ and pounds of big pro lenses.

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OP Charley123 Senior Member • Posts: 1,166
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.

traveler_101 wrote:

I believe you should rethink your opposition to the Olympus 7-14 pro. It is heavy by m43 standards, much lighter than DSLR lenses. Darren Miles's review shows that the 7-14 is the correct lens for your needs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjdya4umwls

Agreed, but for the size/weight.

I think the Panasonic 7-14 F4 will be great with a Wratten 2A filter at rear of lens. The Pan 7-14 F4 is reasonably light too.

traveler_101 Senior Member • Posts: 2,203
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.

Mike Ronesia wrote:

traveler_101 wrote:

I believe you should rethink your opposition to the Olympus 7-14 pro. It is heavy by m43 standards, much lighter than DSLR lenses. Darren Miles's review shows that the 7-14 is the correct lens for your needs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjdya4umwls

As far as being the correct lens for his needs, it seems he has done the math and already found the right one. Nice of you to tell him he is wrong though. It is too big and heavy for me as well. The 7-14 2.8 pro might seem light to you but not to everyone. The whole point of this system is small and light and I much prefer Pannys aproach in this reguard.

I asked him to RE-THINK.I did not tell him he was "wrong".

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Gary from Seattle Veteran Member • Posts: 7,852
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.

Looks like you've done a lot of research since your initial thread. Best of luck to you. Hope you enjoy working with your new gear.

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LMNCT Veteran Member • Posts: 4,908
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.

FWIW the 15 1.7 and 42.5 1.7 are very nice lenses.  The other 45mm from Panasonic is a 2.8 macro and it is also a very nice lens.  If you yearn for the days of lugging weight, you could purchase the 42.5 1.2, but I think the 1.7 will probably be more pleasant to lug.

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OP Charley123 Senior Member • Posts: 1,166
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.

traveler_101 wrote:

Mike Ronesia wrote:

traveler_101 wrote:

I believe you should rethink your opposition to the Olympus 7-14 pro. It is heavy by m43 standards, much lighter than DSLR lenses. Darren Miles's review shows that the 7-14 is the correct lens for your needs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjdya4umwls

As far as being the correct lens for his needs, it seems he has done the math and already found the right one. Nice of you to tell him he is wrong though. It is too big and heavy for me as well. The 7-14 2.8 pro might seem light to you but not to everyone. The whole point of this system is small and light and I much prefer Pannys aproach in this reguard.

I asked him to RE-THINK.I did not tell him he was "wrong".

It's all good.

There's a tendency among camera makers to make faster lenses than needed for their purpose. I assume that's because a lot of the public wants that, but I think they're mistaken about the need for an UWA to be fast.

A super wide lens that's purpose is likely landscapes and architecture doesn't need to be F2.8. Landscapes and architecture don't move, UWA doesn't have much issues with camera shake blur, and OMD has great stabilization. Also, no matter the F stop, good bokah instead possible at UWA. So IMO there is no need for a max aperture of F2.8.

F3.5 or F4 max aperture is plenty fast enough for UWA and it allows the lens to be smaller, lighter, cost less, and less prone to flare.

Though in the case of the Panasonic there are flare problems, but that's the combination of poor lens coating on it, and the OMD cameras not having much flare filtering on the sensor. Or so I've read. But I'll prevent flare by adding a rear filter.

The Pan 7-14 weight approx half as much as the Oly 7-14. So it's Pan for me.

samtheman2014
samtheman2014 Veteran Member • Posts: 4,571
Re: So here's where I came from and where I'm at now - getting into m4/3.
1

clemcam wrote:

If you use DxO Optics Pro to convert from raw, distortion from the 9-18 is totally invisible. The correction is automatic for each body, lens, and focal length. Since I don't see how one can do much of anything with digital photography without using a computer, this is very easy post processing. For me it is a no-brainer tradeoff for the $$ and pounds of big pro lenses.

I appreciate that software plays a part in m43 lenses however I was surprised just how bad the distortion levels on some of the lenses including the 7-14mm and 12-40mm so called PRO lenses, when compared to similarly wide lenses for larger format cameras.

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