Olympus om-d 10ii question

Emma777 wrote:

I recently bought my first camera (olympus om-d 10ii), before that I borrowed an olympus e-pl6 or a Sony (with mirror). I bought this one, beca use I wanted one with a seeker, but without mirror.

There are 2 things I can't seem to figure 1 hing out:

- is there anyway you can see the picture you r about to take on the screen, before you actually take it. With the epl6 any changes i made in iso/shutter etc. were immediately visible (before taking the actual picture).

I assumed this was the same with the om-d 10, but I can't find anything in the manual.

Maybe you have Live View Boost on, with my E-P5 that lives in Custom Menu D.

Regards....... Guy

I dug in the E-M10ii manual and found it on page 101.....

Experiment and see what works for you, but boost on is usually used for flash work in the dark so you can get some idea of framing.

Judging exposure is always fraught with problems using just the displayed image, better to use the histogram or better still the blinkies (Highlight & Shadow).

Regards...... Guy

Thanks, rereading my message it's gibberish...I changed my mind about what I was going to ask in the middle of writing my question.

I tried to work with boost, by putting it on off, but I still don't see any changes in lighting on the screen.

Thanks, that helped. It's still not completely the same. Didn't test it in bright light yet, but in dark circumstances the screen is underexposed, but the photo is just completely black.

I guess I can manage without the screen showing the end result, but I got so used to it with the othere olympus.

Emma777 wrote:

Thanks, that helped. It's still not completely the same. Didn't test it in bright light yet, but in dark circumstances the screen is underexposed, but the photo is just completely black.

Which mode are you using?

I mostly use A mode and the normal for Olympus is that it tries to help in extreme cases by displaying something on the screen even though the result will be wrong. It bottoms out at 3 stops away from normal.

If you see something on the screen or viewfinder and the result is black then the camera settings are wrong and you have reached the limits of the camera (it all depends on the mode you are using). Maybe try Auto ISO with a high limit of say 6400 and see what happens.

The usual approach is to use the screen/viewfinder for framing and try and get the best possible exposure that suits the sensor operation, in other words to expose to the right in histogram terms. Deliberate under-exposure to get a "dark" result delivers a poor result due to noise.

So always try to get a good exposure then a quick fiddle in post process on the computer can set the mood needed for the image.

The camera LCD and viewfinder is definitely not an image reference tool, it is a framing and settings information tool.

I guess I can manage without the screen showing the end result, but I got so used to it with the othere olympus.

They all behave much the same but naturally the way they are set up can make a difference.

Regards..... Guy

I shoot in m-mode. The olympus elp6 showed exactly showed exactly the picture you were about to take. So the image on the screen of the photo you took was exactly the same as before you pushed the button. So when something was completely over or under exposedan it would show completely black or white and everything in between. It didn't have a viewfinder.

Now I adjust my settings everytime after I take the picture and see it on the screen.

Emma777 wrote:

I shoot in m-mode. The olympus elp6 showed exactly showed exactly the picture you were about to take. So the image on the screen of the photo you took was exactly the same as before you pushed the button. So when something was completely over or under exposedan it would show completely black or white and everything in between. It didn't have a viewfinder.

Ditto with my E-PL5 and E-P5, but there is always a 3 stop limit either way,

So in M mode change  the settings way up or way down and the preview image only will vary in the range plus 3 to minus 3 stops from the centre correct exposure. Go down below that 3 stop limit and the preview will still look OK and dark, but enough below 3 stops and the resulting image will be black. Live View Boost is off.

Turn on Live View Boost in Custom Menu D and there is no change at all on the screen in live view even though the settings are way out and either way too over or too under exposed. The settings could be 10 stops under or over but the live view looks normal.

Now I adjust my settings everytime after I take the picture and see it on the screen.

Not sure what you mean there.

Regards........ Guy

Ahhh ok, so from -3 to + 3 the image is the same on live view and end result? That is good. I just tested it with extremes to see if it worked.

With the last part I meant that before I had the live view working I would just take a picture. Checked in on the screen and if I wanted it darker/lighter I would adjust iso, shutter etc.

But seeing it before clicking just makes it so much easier.

Got it working now, thanks so much!