Whats up with Panasonic 14mm and 20mm on Olympus

Chas2 wrote:

The 20 has a great reputation for sharpness, but is an older design, focuses slowly because the whole lens barrel moves in and out as opposed to internally focusing like newer lenses, and its motor is kind of slow. It also had a reputation for hunting, and on the Sony sensor of the EM5 vintage, including the Pens, there is the potential for banding, some sort of interference. That has since been fixed with newer sensors and newer bodies with low light capable CDAF abilities.

The 20 on my GX7, with its -4EV focus ability, is now quite acceptable in its speed, though it can still be noisy. It rarely hunts anymore. The newer Oly cams have similar fast focus ability, and so banding and hunting should no longer be an issue, but it is still physically slower.

Just to be clear... which newer Oly. cams are you referring to, Chas2? I've only read that there is no banding with the new PEN-F. All existing OM-Ds are still susceptible to banding because of that Sony sensor you mentioned. As for faster focusing, I don't know about that. Thanks.

A great little lens ln both Lly and Penny bodies. Sharp, focused at warp speed in the mostu npromising light. A bit of flare from just outside the frame in certain situations. Never noticed the purple fringing that could appear around the edges when using it with Olympus cameras, which some others reported.

Never used the 20mm -- not my preferred FOV.

Egregius V wrote:

Chas2 wrote:

The 20 has a great reputation for sharpness, but is an older design, focuses slowly because the whole lens barrel moves in and out as opposed to internally focusing like newer lenses, and its motor is kind of slow. It also had a reputation for hunting, and on the Sony sensor of the EM5 vintage, including the Pens, there is the potential for banding, some sort of interference. That has since been fixed with newer sensors and newer bodies with low light capable CDAF abilities.

The 20 on my GX7, with its -4EV focus ability, is now quite acceptable in its speed, though it can still be noisy. It rarely hunts anymore. The newer Oly cams have similar fast focus ability, and so banding and hunting should no longer be an issue, but it is still physically slower.

Just to be clear... which newer Oly. cams are you referring to, Chas2? I've only read that there is no banding with the new PEN-F. All existing OM-Ds are still susceptible to banding because of that Sony sensor you mentioned. As for faster focusing, I don't know about that. Thanks.

As I understand from reading multiple threads on dpreview over the past few months, EM-10 forward for the OM-D range do not appear to have the banding issue for whatever reason.  The older PEN series, prior to the PEN-F seem to continue to use the sensor that bands...so that would mean up through and including the EPL7.

The EM1 does not have banding with the P20mm.

Andrew

Oh, right - I forgot about the E-M1 not having a Sony sensor. Thanks!

For further clarification: the E-M10 and E-M5 Mark II are susceptible to banding with the 20mm lens. I've demonstrated this for myself. I presume the E-M10 II can also show banding, since the sensor is the same. But again, it's pretty much avoidable - especially if you have the electronic (silent) shutter feature. Good thing, as I love the 20mm lens!

JoeVC wrote:

So, perhaps one of you technical people can explain to us laypersons how a lens can cause banding in some sensors. Thanks.

~Joe

It is electrical interference from one of the lens components. This has been proven by someone by taking the lens apart and disconnecting either the focus motor or the motor for the aperture blades. I forgot which one caused the interference, but it cured it 100%. So there you go...

Btw the weaker UV filter on Olympus cameras has been proven too (By AnderW). It causes purple flare on the 7-14  and can cause some purple fringes with some lenses. The latter is easily cured in lightroom. And a normal (colourless) UV filter doesnt help at all. It needs to be a wratten 2A or 2E, which are both pale yellow.

I have experience with both subjects. I used a wratten 2A on my PM2 which fixed flare and fringes. And on occasion the 20mm did cause banding. Which I know now is fixable in post with the denoise pluging of the google NIK plugins. (Dfine I think).