DPReview.com is closing April 10th - Find out more

Setting up new E-PL6

Started Jan 7, 2016 | Discussions
Helen
Helen Veteran Member • Posts: 7,606
Re: Setting up new E-PL6
1

alexisgreat wrote:

my fingers are too big

I hope not! And it sounds like the other touchscreen things are working OK for you. Can't work this one out - it always works for me, whether face detection is on or off. Really strange. I take it there isn't any damage on that part of the screen, or anything that may be interfering with conductivity?

No but since everything else works I cant help but think I have a wrong setting in there somewhere. The screen is almost too sensitive when I tap the liveview and immediately takes a shot.

That sounds normal for the touch to shoot function, though. As you say, there might be a setting causing your issue - I haven't found it, but as we all know, the system's pretty deep so there is opportunity to miss a little interaction somewhere.

Oh I was reading a review and I had another question, how does one change the size of the autofocus points (I want to make it smaller), does this also make the size of the spot metering point smaller? Are these things that can be done through the menu as well as the touch screen? Thanks!

It doesn't make the size of the spot metering point any smaller, I'm afraid (since I guess you were hoping it would). You've got several choices for resizing AF points, though. If you ever get the touch-to-focus facility to work(!), then that bar that Guy showed will appear at the right of the screen and you can sweep your finger up or down it to alter the size of the semipermanently-positioned focus points (these are the ones with green frames, that are quite horizontally rectangular in shape). In fact, these targets are the same as the magnification frames, so in live view you can if you wish simply tap the magnifier key next to the Fn button and it will bring up a green frame, which you can then position with the cursor keys (even if you have them set to Direct Function). Whilst a second tap of magnify brings the contents of the green rectangle up to fill the frame, in both cases they are an AF point, so you don't need to blow them up to full screen for that function. To alter their size, press Info and then use the up/down keys to select a magnification ratio for the rectangle - 5x (largest), 7x, 10x or 14x (smallest) are the choices. A long press of OK recentres such a target, and a short press turns it off. If you have the multicontroller set to Direct Function, when nothing else is underway you can tap the left one to get to the interface for the permanent AF targets. A particular pattern (as previously set or used by you) will immediately turn up, and if you press Info, you will see two icons in the lower left - they indicate that the left/right buttons will now change the Face Detection status, whilst the up/down buttons cycle through the patterns and sizes. The really small squares are my personal favourite. Having chosen the size or pattern you want, you can press OK, or Info, and the cursor keys (and the touchscreen) can now be used to move the selected spot if you wish. Then accept it with a quick OK or half-press of the shutter button. Have a play, it's easiest to absorb if you explore it first hand. If you have a favourite size, position or pattern, you can tell the camera via the Home Position (HP) entry in the AF gear menu, and set Home Position to a customisable button. Then, a quick tap of that button will apply your favourite AF target type and position, whatever other pattern you'd been using.

Wow this will be great for manual focus enlargement of focal point also. I had no idea you could choose your own pattern! That has been a pet peeve of mine with previous cameras, where the marker was too big and obtrusive and didn't let me see what I was trying to focus on lol.

Obviously there's a limit to what you can do, but the option for super-small points was introduced if I recall correctly with the E-PL5/E-PM2 launch, and added retrospectively with a firmware update to the original E-M5 as well.  You can position these singly (along with the larger sized ones), and for the (nearly) whole-screen grid of multipoint focusing you can also choose to have a smaller group instead, and to move this around a bit if you prefer.  The flexibility isn't endless by any means, but pretty useful.

Yes, the menu system is a bit complicated, even more so than my old E-520 but it is starting to make more sense now! The camera almost seems to have more buttons because each button can have a few different functions.

Yes, it gets deeper as more features and their options are introduced, but they also try to gently tweak the logic as time goes on - recent models have got pretty much everything in the "correct" gear menu, where previously I'd occasionally wonder "why is this feature in THIS submenu?  I'd have had it in that one...".

I haven't seen this level of customization in any other camera. Does this camera basically have all the same menu options as the EM-5 Mk I? I might get that or hold out for a II for a weatherproof body that uses ac as an alternate power supply. It would be nice if the menu system was the same- it would be easy to do after all this!

In some ways it has more than the E-M5, being a later model.  Olympus usually adds the latest features to the latest model, irrespective of where it sits in the range.  The E-M5 was and is a great camera, but I feel the E-M5 II is a fantastic update - a gorgeous thing (as an admitted obsessive gear nut, I do possess both models I'm afraid.  I am of course a rubbish photographer as I find the cameras too interesting, but at least I can come in useful from time to time for normal people! ).

I'm excited to try out the HDR mode! I read it can combine 7 images in a stack? I suspect this is something that requires a tripod though.

Not sure if you're aware, from your wording, that you need a model later than the E-PL6 for in-camera auto-combining HDR mode (E-M10, E-M1, E-PL7, E-M5 II, E-M10 II).  You do have a rather flexible HDR bracketing mode, though, for combining out of camera - also still on those later models.

I have to memorize all the menu changes I need to make: live boost on, change Fn button to AEL/AFL, set AEL to different metering than shutter half press, change control pad to direct functions, bottom (ISO), right (WB). Fix touch pad issues! update firmware!

hmmm sounds like live boost should be turned on if the zebra stripes are on. I think you've successfully explained an oddity I was having- in live view I saw large areas of underexposure (more like a blue sea haha) but when I went in playback mode after I took the shot, there was only a very small sliver of blue (more like a little pond lol.) I was trying to figure out which was more accurate- I'm guessing the small sliver of blue in playback is the more accurate one.

I believe so, but I can't take credit for that - I think somebody else caught that one, perhaps Guy!

Guy has quite the site! There is so much info available about these cameras.

Yes, he does.  He's an incredibly knowledgeable, helpful chap - a great asset to the forum.

Helen
Helen Veteran Member • Posts: 7,606
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Guy Parsons wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

About the AE/AF thing, is there a way to focus from one part of the frame, but spot meter from a different part of the frame, and neither spot be in the center (in other words, not tie the metering spot to the focusing spot in spot metering mode.)

Olympus always spot meters the same position as the focus spot.

I think that's true in ESP by inference, but if I select spot metering, the little metering indicator stays nailed to the centre of the screen and if I move the focus point around, the metering still comes from where that centre marker is looking, rather than the AF point (I just tried it out to make sure).

In my case I 99% use matrix metering (called ESP?) then adjust via watching the blinkies to get what I want. Always central small focus spot, half press focus and recompose and shoot.

I'm the same (except I don't use the live non-blinky blinkies for the most part because they distract me for some reason - that, and I'm basically a lazy photographer who isn't that good a photographer in any artistic sense - I just love playing with cameras, probably due to a severe strategic error my mother made when I was very small [she put a folding Kodak in my pram for me to play with - long before the days of health and safety awareness, of course! ].

By using S-AF Mode 2 it meters at full press but the way it works I can aim at the final scene, see the blinkie activity and alter the exposure compensation to either get the blinkies right or to "see" into a dark corner, then do the half press focus on point of interest, hold, reframe and shoot and the exposure is how I adjusted it to in live view. Or, when using S-AF Mode 2 I can use the AEL button to lock exposure if unsure about what might change when I finally shoot.

Oh, me too!  In my case this comes from long exposure (pardon the pun) to Olympus since the early eighties (the decade!) - and it's a reason I get all wound up with current Canon cameras which lock the exposure on half press in S-AF mode and won't even show the exposure at all if you let go of the shutter release - maddening!

Next if using spot metering (I avoid that as I've seen too many errors from other users when they take some general scene and forget that they have spot metering enabled) then my take would be to still use S-AF Mode 2 then meter the spot needed, press AEL, move to put my central small focus spot where I needed, half press AF and hold, move to reframe, then shoot.

Tried that now, easier and quicker to do than writing about it. Now to make sure that I get rid of that spot meter setting.....

I've been thinking about this since posting for Alex and the other way would be to just have AEL set to spot metering - but I guess that's potentially more dangerous still and easier to overlook/forget.  Though at least it becomes obvious on instant review (which I have active).

In my case now E-P5 and 12-40mm, sitting in chair with one elbow on desk, shooting the dim computer junk under a table close by and was variously using 1.3 and 2.6 second shots at 14mm by aiming at different parts and getting the exposures that I expected.

What I didn't really expect was shake free results at those shutter times, but sure enough I got them. About 6 stops improvement, and when I think about it, that mostly due to elbow on table, I've done those stability tests before and elbows on table or chair arms gives about 3 stops on its own.

Anyway, using spot meter and spot focus is no problem, just involves a little more work by the user. Just remember to watch the AEL lock icon to make sure it's on or off as needed.

Absolutely - not that you need any reinforcement from me, as I know you're more expert than me!   But anyway, agreed - so there!

Helen
Helen Veteran Member • Posts: 7,606
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Oh, and to the OP, Alex: I recall you said somewhere, and apologies if it's already answered, that lightbox display in playback was greyed out on your E-PL6.  You need to put Playback Close Up Mode (the bottom of page 2 of gear menu D (Display etc.) to Mode 2 for it to be available.  On the downside, I don't find Mode 2 terrifically intuitive (it works a bit like the magnification button method for getting the little green AF frames I've covered at length earlier, which doesn't feel all that fluid to me in playback).  Mind you, Light Box playback mode seems to defeat my admittedly odd internal logic as well, as I fumble around no end, trying to get things to work the way I think they are going to!

OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Guy Parsons wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Right I usually do that too- Olympus metering is usually great but having the "blinkies that dont blink" in live view is a definite help! I can use the AEL function to separate focal point from metering point though. Hmmm sounds like I might need to switch my first setting to Mode 2!

Thanks for the description I actually pictured it in my head with how to recompose twice and then shoot. Wow that's a lot of IS you have going there and very impressive with the small weight of the camera. With the E-520 I was able to do 15 sec exposures at 14mm without movement, but that camera is heavier and I had my elbows and half my arms propped on a wall. Did you have dual axis IS turned on or IS in just one direction or off?

The (heavier than E-PL5) E-P5 because it was handy and had a lens on it, always 5 axis IBIS turned on and that body with S-IS-Auto which detects panning, but I just about never do panning shots so it's equivalent to having it on S-IS1, stabilising in X and Y directions.

The way I use the E-P5 is to have 4 x A mode MySets set up for different light conditions assigned to the Mode dial to replace the never used iAuto/Art/Scene/other_thing(?) spots. When taking a shot, if the shutter speed sounded too low then I move to the next MySet by turning the Mode dial and take again, until the shutter speed sound is reasonable. That way I don't have to keep peering at the LCD to see what the speed will be. I use LCD only, haven't used the VF-2 for maybe near 3 years now.

Also many thanks to Helen for taking over what is my night shift (8am here in Sydney now) she explains things more carefully and more accurately than I do. Plus she seems to have an E-PL6.

Regards....... Guy

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them!  And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10.  Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true.  I take it you cant do more than 1-2 sec with the E-PL5/6 at 14mm without a tripod even with your arms braced against something?

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Helen wrote:

Oh, and to the OP, Alex: I recall you said somewhere, and apologies if it's already answered, that lightbox display in playback was greyed out on your E-PL6. You need to put Playback Close Up Mode (the bottom of page 2 of gear menu D (Display etc.) to Mode 2 for it to be available. On the downside, I don't find Mode 2 terrifically intuitive (it works a bit like the magnification button method for getting the little green AF frames I've covered at length earlier, which doesn't feel all that fluid to me in playback). Mind you, Light Box playback mode seems to defeat my admittedly odd internal logic as well, as I fumble around no end, trying to get things to work the way I think they are going to!

Thanks Helen, I left it as is for now until I get used to what I am doing lol. In a way it's good that spot metering is glued to the center of the screen, too many moving parts (pun intended!) would be confusing.  So with my hypothetical situation of both metering and focusing off center it's much less confusing using the recompose method.  Actually you only have to recompose once since you only have to do that when metering off-center and then just use the touch screen to focus and shoot!

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Helen wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

my fingers are too big

I hope not! And it sounds like the other touchscreen things are working OK for you. Can't work this one out - it always works for me, whether face detection is on or off. Really strange. I take it there isn't any damage on that part of the screen, or anything that may be interfering with conductivity?

No but since everything else works I cant help but think I have a wrong setting in there somewhere. The screen is almost too sensitive when I tap the liveview and immediately takes a shot.

That sounds normal for the touch to shoot function, though. As you say, there might be a setting causing your issue - I haven't found it, but as we all know, the system's pretty deep so there is opportunity to miss a little interaction somewhere.

Oh I was reading a review and I had another question, how does one change the size of the autofocus points (I want to make it smaller), does this also make the size of the spot metering point smaller? Are these things that can be done through the menu as well as the touch screen? Thanks!

It doesn't make the size of the spot metering point any smaller, I'm afraid (since I guess you were hoping it would). You've got several choices for resizing AF points, though. If you ever get the touch-to-focus facility to work(!), then that bar that Guy showed will appear at the right of the screen and you can sweep your finger up or down it to alter the size of the semipermanently-positioned focus points (these are the ones with green frames, that are quite horizontally rectangular in shape). In fact, these targets are the same as the magnification frames, so in live view you can if you wish simply tap the magnifier key next to the Fn button and it will bring up a green frame, which you can then position with the cursor keys (even if you have them set to Direct Function). Whilst a second tap of magnify brings the contents of the green rectangle up to fill the frame, in both cases they are an AF point, so you don't need to blow them up to full screen for that function. To alter their size, press Info and then use the up/down keys to select a magnification ratio for the rectangle - 5x (largest), 7x, 10x or 14x (smallest) are the choices. A long press of OK recentres such a target, and a short press turns it off. If you have the multicontroller set to Direct Function, when nothing else is underway you can tap the left one to get to the interface for the permanent AF targets. A particular pattern (as previously set or used by you) will immediately turn up, and if you press Info, you will see two icons in the lower left - they indicate that the left/right buttons will now change the Face Detection status, whilst the up/down buttons cycle through the patterns and sizes. The really small squares are my personal favourite. Having chosen the size or pattern you want, you can press OK, or Info, and the cursor keys (and the touchscreen) can now be used to move the selected spot if you wish. Then accept it with a quick OK or half-press of the shutter button. Have a play, it's easiest to absorb if you explore it first hand. If you have a favourite size, position or pattern, you can tell the camera via the Home Position (HP) entry in the AF gear menu, and set Home Position to a customisable button. Then, a quick tap of that button will apply your favourite AF target type and position, whatever other pattern you'd been using.

Wow this will be great for manual focus enlargement of focal point also. I had no idea you could choose your own pattern! That has been a pet peeve of mine with previous cameras, where the marker was too big and obtrusive and didn't let me see what I was trying to focus on lol.

Obviously there's a limit to what you can do, but the option for super-small points was introduced if I recall correctly with the E-PL5/E-PM2 launch, and added retrospectively with a firmware update to the original E-M5 as well. You can position these singly (along with the larger sized ones), and for the (nearly) whole-screen grid of multipoint focusing you can also choose to have a smaller group instead, and to move this around a bit if you prefer. The flexibility isn't endless by any means, but pretty useful.

Wow, so you can have different sized focus points all operating at the same time? Interesting!

Yes, the menu system is a bit complicated, even more so than my old E-520 but it is starting to make more sense now! The camera almost seems to have more buttons because each button can have a few different functions.

Yes, it gets deeper as more features and their options are introduced, but they also try to gently tweak the logic as time goes on - recent models have got pretty much everything in the "correct" gear menu, where previously I'd occasionally wonder "why is this feature in THIS submenu? I'd have had it in that one...".

The thing I find somewhat annoying about Olympus menus is that some of the submenus have like 10 different settings under them and others have only 2.

I haven't seen this level of customization in any other camera. Does this camera basically have all the same menu options as the EM-5 Mk I? I might get that or hold out for a II for a weatherproof body that uses ac as an alternate power supply. It would be nice if the menu system was the same- it would be easy to do after all this!

In some ways it has more than the E-M5, being a later model. Olympus usually adds the latest features to the latest model, irrespective of where it sits in the range. The E-M5 was and is a great camera, but I feel the E-M5 II is a fantastic update - a gorgeous thing (as an admitted obsessive gear nut, I do possess both models I'm afraid. I am of course a rubbish photographer as I find the cameras too interesting, but at least I can come in useful from time to time for normal people! ).

I'm excited to try out the HDR mode! I read it can combine 7 images in a stack? I suspect this is something that requires a tripod though.

Not sure if you're aware, from your wording, that you need a model later than the E-PL6 for in-camera auto-combining HDR mode (E-M10, E-M1, E-PL7, E-M5 II, E-M10 II). You do have a rather flexible HDR bracketing mode, though, for combining out of camera - also still on those later models.

Oh they just keep adding new features dont they I can't help but think that they could retroactively put all these features in previous models with a firmware update! I read the E-PL7 manual too to see what I was going to be missing for the extra $250 (the manual is about 50 pages longer than the one for my camera) and I didn't really see anything in there that you can't do out of camera in post process. Of course the LCD has a higher resolution which is a plus. Also, found the price confusingly close to that of the EM10; if they are the same price (or even within $50 of each other) the EM10 is a nobrainer. Even though the EM10 doesn't seem to have any features the E-PL7 doesn't have, the body does seem more sturdy.

I have to memorize all the menu changes I need to make: live boost on, change Fn button to AEL/AFL, set AEL to different metering than shutter half press, change control pad to direct functions, bottom (ISO), right (WB). Fix touch pad issues! update firmware!

hmmm sounds like live boost should be turned on if the zebra stripes are on. I think you've successfully explained an oddity I was having- in live view I saw large areas of underexposure (more like a blue sea haha) but when I went in playback mode after I took the shot, there was only a very small sliver of blue (more like a little pond lol.) I was trying to figure out which was more accurate- I'm guessing the small sliver of blue in playback is the more accurate one.

I believe so, but I can't take credit for that - I think somebody else caught that one, perhaps Guy!

Guy has quite the site! There is so much info available about these cameras.

Yes, he does. He's an incredibly knowledgeable, helpful chap - a great asset to the forum.

Indeed and very patient (as are you!) to answer all these questions! I get rather deeply involved with all my cameras and love the intricate complexity of Olympus cameras I've enjoyed going back to 2005 and the C-7070.

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
Impulses Forum Pro • Posts: 10,039
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Guy Parsons wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Right I usually do that too- Olympus metering is usually great but having the "blinkies that dont blink" in live view is a definite help! I can use the AEL function to separate focal point from metering point though. Hmmm sounds like I might need to switch my first setting to Mode 2!

Thanks for the description I actually pictured it in my head with how to recompose twice and then shoot. Wow that's a lot of IS you have going there and very impressive with the small weight of the camera. With the E-520 I was able to do 15 sec exposures at 14mm without movement, but that camera is heavier and I had my elbows and half my arms propped on a wall. Did you have dual axis IS turned on or IS in just one direction or off?

The (heavier than E-PL5) E-P5 because it was handy and had a lens on it, always 5 axis IBIS turned on and that body with S-IS-Auto which detects panning, but I just about never do panning shots so it's equivalent to having it on S-IS1, stabilising in X and Y directions.

The way I use the E-P5 is to have 4 x A mode MySets set up for different light conditions assigned to the Mode dial to replace the never used iAuto/Art/Scene/other_thing(?) spots. When taking a shot, if the shutter speed sounded too low then I move to the next MySet by turning the Mode dial and take again, until the shutter speed sound is reasonable. That way I don't have to keep peering at the LCD to see what the speed will be. I use LCD only, haven't used the VF-2 for maybe near 3 years now.

Also many thanks to Helen for taking over what is my night shift (8am here in Sydney now) she explains things more carefully and more accurately than I do. Plus she seems to have an E-PL6.

Regards....... Guy

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them!  And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10.  Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true.  I take it you cant do more than 1-2 sec with the E-PL5/6 at 14mm without a tripod even with your arms braced against something?

I wouldn't bet on it, even with the more advanced IBIS of an E-M5 II, you might nail the occasional lucky shot but it won't be at all consistent.

 Impulses's gear list:Impulses's gear list
Panasonic GX850 Sony a7R IV Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm F1.8 Panasonic Lumix G 42.5mm F1.7 Sony FE 20mm F1.8G +31 more
Impulses Forum Pro • Posts: 10,039
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Guy Parsons wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Right I usually do that too- Olympus metering is usually great but having the "blinkies that dont blink" in live view is a definite help! I can use the AEL function to separate focal point from metering point though. Hmmm sounds like I might need to switch my first setting to Mode 2!

Thanks for the description I actually pictured it in my head with how to recompose twice and then shoot. Wow that's a lot of IS you have going there and very impressive with the small weight of the camera. With the E-520 I was able to do 15 sec exposures at 14mm without movement, but that camera is heavier and I had my elbows and half my arms propped on a wall. Did you have dual axis IS turned on or IS in just one direction or off?

The (heavier than E-PL5) E-P5 because it was handy and had a lens on it, always 5 axis IBIS turned on and that body with S-IS-Auto which detects panning, but I just about never do panning shots so it's equivalent to having it on S-IS1, stabilising in X and Y directions.

The way I use the E-P5 is to have 4 x A mode MySets set up for different light conditions assigned to the Mode dial to replace the never used iAuto/Art/Scene/other_thing(?) spots. When taking a shot, if the shutter speed sounded too low then I move to the next MySet by turning the Mode dial and take again, until the shutter speed sound is reasonable. That way I don't have to keep peering at the LCD to see what the speed will be. I use LCD only, haven't used the VF-2 for maybe near 3 years now.

Also many thanks to Helen for taking over what is my night shift (8am here in Sydney now) she explains things more carefully and more accurately than I do. Plus she seems to have an E-PL6.

Regards....... Guy

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them!  And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10.  Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true.  I take it you cant do more than 1-2 sec with the E-PL5/6 at 14mm without a tripod even with your arms braced against something?

I wouldn't bet on it, even with the more advanced IBIS of an E-M5 II, you might nail the occasional lucky shot but it won't be at all consistent.

I mean, if you're really well braced it might be different, like if you're holding the camera itself against something rather than purely on your hands... But that can be pretty variable, how stable is that something you're holding it against etc...

 Impulses's gear list:Impulses's gear list
Panasonic GX850 Sony a7R IV Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm F1.8 Panasonic Lumix G 42.5mm F1.7 Sony FE 20mm F1.8G +31 more
OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Impulses wrote:

Guy Parsons wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Right I usually do that too- Olympus metering is usually great but having the "blinkies that dont blink" in live view is a definite help! I can use the AEL function to separate focal point from metering point though. Hmmm sounds like I might need to switch my first setting to Mode 2!

Thanks for the description I actually pictured it in my head with how to recompose twice and then shoot. Wow that's a lot of IS you have going there and very impressive with the small weight of the camera. With the E-520 I was able to do 15 sec exposures at 14mm without movement, but that camera is heavier and I had my elbows and half my arms propped on a wall. Did you have dual axis IS turned on or IS in just one direction or off?

The (heavier than E-PL5) E-P5 because it was handy and had a lens on it, always 5 axis IBIS turned on and that body with S-IS-Auto which detects panning, but I just about never do panning shots so it's equivalent to having it on S-IS1, stabilising in X and Y directions.

The way I use the E-P5 is to have 4 x A mode MySets set up for different light conditions assigned to the Mode dial to replace the never used iAuto/Art/Scene/other_thing(?) spots. When taking a shot, if the shutter speed sounded too low then I move to the next MySet by turning the Mode dial and take again, until the shutter speed sound is reasonable. That way I don't have to keep peering at the LCD to see what the speed will be. I use LCD only, haven't used the VF-2 for maybe near 3 years now.

Also many thanks to Helen for taking over what is my night shift (8am here in Sydney now) she explains things more carefully and more accurately than I do. Plus she seems to have an E-PL6.

Regards....... Guy

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them! And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10. Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true. I take it you cant do more than 1-2 sec with the E-PL5/6 at 14mm without a tripod even with your arms braced against something?

I wouldn't bet on it, even with the more advanced IBIS of an E-M5 II, you might nail the occasional lucky shot but it won't be at all consistent.

Yes, this is what I was afraid of.  Lighter bodies mean more image shake, even with great IS.  Tripod necessary.

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Impulses wrote:

Guy Parsons wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Right I usually do that too- Olympus metering is usually great but having the "blinkies that dont blink" in live view is a definite help! I can use the AEL function to separate focal point from metering point though. Hmmm sounds like I might need to switch my first setting to Mode 2!

Thanks for the description I actually pictured it in my head with how to recompose twice and then shoot. Wow that's a lot of IS you have going there and very impressive with the small weight of the camera. With the E-520 I was able to do 15 sec exposures at 14mm without movement, but that camera is heavier and I had my elbows and half my arms propped on a wall. Did you have dual axis IS turned on or IS in just one direction or off?

The (heavier than E-PL5) E-P5 because it was handy and had a lens on it, always 5 axis IBIS turned on and that body with S-IS-Auto which detects panning, but I just about never do panning shots so it's equivalent to having it on S-IS1, stabilising in X and Y directions.

The way I use the E-P5 is to have 4 x A mode MySets set up for different light conditions assigned to the Mode dial to replace the never used iAuto/Art/Scene/other_thing(?) spots. When taking a shot, if the shutter speed sounded too low then I move to the next MySet by turning the Mode dial and take again, until the shutter speed sound is reasonable. That way I don't have to keep peering at the LCD to see what the speed will be. I use LCD only, haven't used the VF-2 for maybe near 3 years now.

Also many thanks to Helen for taking over what is my night shift (8am here in Sydney now) she explains things more carefully and more accurately than I do. Plus she seems to have an E-PL6.

Regards....... Guy

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them! And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10. Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true. I take it you cant do more than 1-2 sec with the E-PL5/6 at 14mm without a tripod even with your arms braced against something?

I wouldn't bet on it, even with the more advanced IBIS of an E-M5 II, you might nail the occasional lucky shot but it won't be at all consistent.

I mean, if you're really well braced it might be different, like if you're holding the camera itself against something rather than purely on your hands... But that can be pretty variable, how stable is that something you're holding it against etc...

Oh I experienced it when I was testing the camera, I got zero sharp shots slower than 2 sec shutter speed- and I tried for them all the way up to 8 seconds with the full length of my arms braced on a wall.  At 2 seconds it was something like 33%.  With the heavier E-520 I could easily do 15 seconds with my arms braced on the same wall.  Of course there are a lot of positives to a lighter camera too and a tripod solves all these issues lol.

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
John King
John King Forum Pro • Posts: 14,941
Changing focus box size on the E-M1 (and others ... )
1

Gidday Helen

Helen wrote:

Obviously there's a limit to what you can do, but the option for super-small points was introduced if I recall correctly with the E-PL5/E-PM2 launch, and added retrospectively with a firmware update to the original E-M5 as well. You can position these singly (along with the larger sized ones), and for the (nearly) whole-screen grid of multipoint focusing you can also choose to have a smaller group instead, and to move this around a bit if you prefer. The flexibility isn't endless by any means, but pretty useful.

What a ripper suggestion, mate!

This set my mind in motion (hard to do at times, these days ... ) and I wondered if changing the size of the AF box of my E-M1 in LiveView mode would have any effect on its size in EVF mode? I changed it to 14x in LV mode, and voilà, it is changed to 14x in EVF mode .

Thanks heaps Helen. I would never have discovered this in a million years ...

-- hide signature --

Regards, john from Melbourne, Australia.
.
Please do not embed images from my web site without prior permission
I consider this to be a breach of my copyright.
-- -- --
.
The Camera doth not make the Man (nor Woman) ...
Perhaps being kind to cats, dogs & children does ...
.
Galleries: http://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/v/main-page/

Bird Control Officers on active service.

 John King's gear list:John King's gear list
Olympus E-1 Olympus E-510 Olympus E-30 Olympus E-M1 Olympus Zuiko Digital 14-54mm 1:2.8-3.5 II +17 more
Impulses Forum Pro • Posts: 10,039
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Helen wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

my fingers are too big

I hope not! And it sounds like the other touchscreen things are working OK for you. Can't work this one out - it always works for me, whether face detection is on or off. Really strange. I take it there isn't any damage on that part of the screen, or anything that may be interfering with conductivity?

No but since everything else works I cant help but think I have a wrong setting in there somewhere. The screen is almost too sensitive when I tap the liveview and immediately takes a shot.

That sounds normal for the touch to shoot function, though. As you say, there might be a setting causing your issue - I haven't found it, but as we all know, the system's pretty deep so there is opportunity to miss a little interaction somewhere.

Oh I was reading a review and I had another question, how does one change the size of the autofocus points (I want to make it smaller), does this also make the size of the spot metering point smaller? Are these things that can be done through the menu as well as the touch screen? Thanks!

It doesn't make the size of the spot metering point any smaller, I'm afraid (since I guess you were hoping it would). You've got several choices for resizing AF points, though. If you ever get the touch-to-focus facility to work(!), then that bar that Guy showed will appear at the right of the screen and you can sweep your finger up or down it to alter the size of the semipermanently-positioned focus points (these are the ones with green frames, that are quite horizontally rectangular in shape). In fact, these targets are the same as the magnification frames, so in live view you can if you wish simply tap the magnifier key next to the Fn button and it will bring up a green frame, which you can then position with the cursor keys (even if you have them set to Direct Function). Whilst a second tap of magnify brings the contents of the green rectangle up to fill the frame, in both cases they are an AF point, so you don't need to blow them up to full screen for that function. To alter their size, press Info and then use the up/down keys to select a magnification ratio for the rectangle - 5x (largest), 7x, 10x or 14x (smallest) are the choices. A long press of OK recentres such a target, and a short press turns it off. If you have the multicontroller set to Direct Function, when nothing else is underway you can tap the left one to get to the interface for the permanent AF targets. A particular pattern (as previously set or used by you) will immediately turn up, and if you press Info, you will see two icons in the lower left - they indicate that the left/right buttons will now change the Face Detection status, whilst the up/down buttons cycle through the patterns and sizes. The really small squares are my personal favourite. Having chosen the size or pattern you want, you can press OK, or Info, and the cursor keys (and the touchscreen) can now be used to move the selected spot if you wish. Then accept it with a quick OK or half-press of the shutter button. Have a play, it's easiest to absorb if you explore it first hand. If you have a favourite size, position or pattern, you can tell the camera via the Home Position (HP) entry in the AF gear menu, and set Home Position to a customisable button. Then, a quick tap of that button will apply your favourite AF target type and position, whatever other pattern you'd been using.

Wow this will be great for manual focus enlargement of focal point also. I had no idea you could choose your own pattern! That has been a pet peeve of mine with previous cameras, where the marker was too big and obtrusive and didn't let me see what I was trying to focus on lol.

Obviously there's a limit to what you can do, but the option for super-small points was introduced if I recall correctly with the E-PL5/E-PM2 launch, and added retrospectively with a firmware update to the original E-M5 as well. You can position these singly (along with the larger sized ones), and for the (nearly) whole-screen grid of multipoint focusing you can also choose to have a smaller group instead, and to move this around a bit if you prefer. The flexibility isn't endless by any means, but pretty useful.

Wow, so you can have different sized focus points all operating at the same time? Interesting!

Yes, the menu system is a bit complicated, even more so than my old E-520 but it is starting to make more sense now! The camera almost seems to have more buttons because each button can have a few different functions.

Yes, it gets deeper as more features and their options are introduced, but they also try to gently tweak the logic as time goes on - recent models have got pretty much everything in the "correct" gear menu, where previously I'd occasionally wonder "why is this feature in THIS submenu? I'd have had it in that one...".

The thing I find somewhat annoying about Olympus menus is that some of the submenus have like 10 different settings under them and others have only 2.

I haven't seen this level of customization in any other camera. Does this camera basically have all the same menu options as the EM-5 Mk I? I might get that or hold out for a II for a weatherproof body that uses ac as an alternate power supply. It would be nice if the menu system was the same- it would be easy to do after all this!

In some ways it has more than the E-M5, being a later model. Olympus usually adds the latest features to the latest model, irrespective of where it sits in the range. The E-M5 was and is a great camera, but I feel the E-M5 II is a fantastic update - a gorgeous thing (as an admitted obsessive gear nut, I do possess both models I'm afraid. I am of course a rubbish photographer as I find the cameras too interesting, but at least I can come in useful from time to time for normal people! ).

I'm excited to try out the HDR mode! I read it can combine 7 images in a stack? I suspect this is something that requires a tripod though.

Not sure if you're aware, from your wording, that you need a model later than the E-PL6 for in-camera auto-combining HDR mode (E-M10, E-M1, E-PL7, E-M5 II, E-M10 II). You do have a rather flexible HDR bracketing mode, though, for combining out of camera - also still on those later models.

Oh they just keep adding new features dont they I can't help but think that they could retroactively put all these features in previous models with a firmware update! I read the E-PL7 manual too to see what I was going to be missing for the extra $250 (the manual is about 50 pages longer than the one for my camera) and I didn't really see anything in there that you can't do out of camera in post process. Of course the LCD has a higher resolution which is a plus. Also, found the price confusingly close to that of the EM10; if they are the same price (or even within $50 of each other) the EM10 is a nobrainer. Even though the EM10 doesn't seem to have any features the E-PL7 doesn't have, the body does seem more sturdy.

I have to memorize all the menu changes I need to make: live boost on, change Fn button to AEL/AFL, set AEL to different metering than shutter half press, change control pad to direct functions, bottom (ISO), right (WB). Fix touch pad issues! update firmware!

hmmm sounds like live boost should be turned on if the zebra stripes are on. I think you've successfully explained an oddity I was having- in live view I saw large areas of underexposure (more like a blue sea haha) but when I went in playback mode after I took the shot, there was only a very small sliver of blue (more like a little pond lol.) I was trying to figure out which was more accurate- I'm guessing the small sliver of blue in playback is the more accurate one.

I believe so, but I can't take credit for that - I think somebody else caught that one, perhaps Guy!

Guy has quite the site! There is so much info available about these cameras.

Yes, he does. He's an incredibly knowledgeable, helpful chap - a great asset to the forum.

Indeed and very patient (as are you!) to answer all these questions! I get rather deeply involved with all my cameras and love the intricate complexity of Olympus cameras I've enjoyed going back to 2005 and the C-7070.

They've back ported features in some cases, particularly recently, but mostly for OM-D bodies released within the last year or two... Haven't given the PEN line as much love as it deserves IMO (even in the case of the E-P5), hopefully the new PEN bucks that trend and they start paying attention to the line again.

 Impulses's gear list:Impulses's gear list
Panasonic GX850 Sony a7R IV Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm F1.8 Panasonic Lumix G 42.5mm F1.7 Sony FE 20mm F1.8G +31 more
Helen
Helen Veteran Member • Posts: 7,606
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

alexisgreat wrote:

Guy Parsons wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Right I usually do that too- Olympus metering is usually great but having the "blinkies that dont blink" in live view is a definite help! I can use the AEL function to separate focal point from metering point though. Hmmm sounds like I might need to switch my first setting to Mode 2!

Thanks for the description I actually pictured it in my head with how to recompose twice and then shoot. Wow that's a lot of IS you have going there and very impressive with the small weight of the camera. With the E-520 I was able to do 15 sec exposures at 14mm without movement, but that camera is heavier and I had my elbows and half my arms propped on a wall. Did you have dual axis IS turned on or IS in just one direction or off?

The (heavier than E-PL5) E-P5 because it was handy and had a lens on it, always 5 axis IBIS turned on and that body with S-IS-Auto which detects panning, but I just about never do panning shots so it's equivalent to having it on S-IS1, stabilising in X and Y directions.

The way I use the E-P5 is to have 4 x A mode MySets set up for different light conditions assigned to the Mode dial to replace the never used iAuto/Art/Scene/other_thing(?) spots. When taking a shot, if the shutter speed sounded too low then I move to the next MySet by turning the Mode dial and take again, until the shutter speed sound is reasonable. That way I don't have to keep peering at the LCD to see what the speed will be. I use LCD only, haven't used the VF-2 for maybe near 3 years now.

Also many thanks to Helen for taking over what is my night shift (8am here in Sydney now) she explains things more carefully and more accurately than I do. Plus she seems to have an E-PL6.

Regards....... Guy

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them! And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10. Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true. I take it you cant do more than 1-2 sec with the E-PL5/6 at 14mm without a tripod even with your arms braced against something?

I see what you mean - I'd never noticed it before, but the Pens have "rankings" for family position implicit in the letters, with the numbers being more of a generational/chronological indication within their particular sub-group, whereas the OM-D cameras are all E-M, with the number indicating more their position in that range (I think it harks back to the OM film cameras, where the single digit models were higher up the range than the double-digits).

Helen
Helen Veteran Member • Posts: 7,606
Re: Setting up new E-PL6
2

alexisgreat wrote:

Obviously there's a limit to what you can do, but the option for super-small points was introduced if I recall correctly with the E-PL5/E-PM2 launch, and added retrospectively with a firmware update to the original E-M5 as well. You can position these singly (along with the larger sized ones), and for the (nearly) whole-screen grid of multipoint focusing you can also choose to have a smaller group instead, and to move this around a bit if you prefer. The flexibility isn't endless by any means, but pretty useful.

Wow, so you can have different sized focus points all operating at the same time? Interesting!

Sorry, I can be prone to an ambiguous turn of phrase at times!  No, any you have operating at the same time are the same size as one another.  With the "permanent" AF spots, which are the square ones, the super-small ones are for use one at a time.  The larger squares, which are big enough to touch each other when they are all on show in the AF point selection grid (i.e. when you have for example pressed the "left" key on the multicontroller to access it, with the multicontroller set to Direct Function), give the choice of using one at a time, or letting the camera auto-select one at a time from anywhere on the whole available grid according to what it picks as the subject on which to focus.  You can also select a smaller group for this mode, of 9 squares (3 x 3), and you can position this around the screen to your preference - the camera will then only auto-pick from within it.  This group shrinks to 6 squares at the edges of the full array because you have the option to "overshoot" the border by one square (it's easier to try out than describe!) and you can do this in all directions, so you can shrink the area covered in the extreme corners to a square of four if you want.

The tiny square (one in use at a time) is shown by a fine, black, square outline to show where it is set.  It illuminates in green momentarily as it AF-locks.  The larger square (usable singly or in a restricted, manually positionable group of between 9 and 4, as described above) is shown by one set of four fine, black corner brackets, whether single or a group.  One single larger square will illuminate in green briefly on AF lock - obviously so if you are only using one, but also if you are using a group - just to show which has been picked by the camera.  When you are using the whole screen area (35 of the larger squares, actually not the whole screen as the edges aren't covered), no boxes or brackets show in black, but the single, larger green square that is picked by the camera will briefly show at AF lock, as normal (all this is AF-S of course).  In C-AF, one will show on initial focus acquisition, but not again - but it appears they still have the ability to move around the grid if several are active, as required.

I have the simple cross-hairs grid overlay on my LCD (and EVF where applicable) as it is unobtrusive and helps me see whether a single AF point is centred or not (it's easy to re-centre with a long press of OK, but nevertheless I find it helpful).

Then of course you've got your less-permanent option of the green rectangle AF points, accessible by touchscreen or magnifier key, with their optional 5x, 7x, 10x, 14x crop-come-magnification feature.  14x is my favourite for tightly controlled focusing, but it's a heck of a handful if you choose to magnify it to full screen as you're looking at such a huge magnification.

The thing I find somewhat annoying about Olympus menus is that some of the submenus have like 10 different settings under them and others have only 2.

I guess, but it's logical (to me, many others might disagree!) because each submenu is categorised by what it covers - AF, buttons and dials, and so on.  The submenu heading categories are even a little bit \(but not totally!) alphabetised, I just realised.  The only thing I could quibble with is occasionally I may think "why is this in the Camera 1 or 2 menu, rather than a relevant gear menu?"  Even that has become a bit more straightforward on the latest models, which have had a very tiny reorganisation (not enough to upset me) but more usefully offer the option to remember the last-used position.

Oh they just keep adding new features dont they I can't help but think that they could retroactively put all these features in previous models with a firmware update! I read the E-PL7 manual too to see what I was going to be missing for the extra $250 (the manual is about 50 pages longer than the one for my camera) and I didn't really see anything in there that you can't do out of camera in post process. Of course the LCD has a higher resolution which is a plus. Also, found the price confusingly close to that of the EM10; if they are the same price (or even within $50 of each other) the EM10 is a nobrainer. Even though the EM10 doesn't seem to have any features the E-PL7 doesn't have, the body does seem more sturdy.

The LCD is also bigger on the E-PL7.  It's got that upside-down design to the facing-forward screen (dubious, but the folding mechanism for normal tilting is stronger and smoother to use, at least), it has Live Composite, the option of EFCS (a big plus in my experience), a nice, chunky control dial around the shutter release which you can use with thumb or forefinger (the rear multicontroller ring of models before can get over-sensitive with time on some examples), and the 3-axis IBIS is definitely a big improvement on the 2-axis.  Yes, in the UK where I live the E-PL7 has also been illogically priced compared with the E-M10 too, given that the former doesn't include an EVF or two control dials.  Aside: up to the E-M10 II, all OM-D models are painted, not plated/anodised.  The E-M10 II is finished like a black or silver E-PL7 (anodised), though a less "champagne" tone in the silver version.  Just saying for info...

Guy Parsons
Guy Parsons Forum Pro • Posts: 40,000
Naming
2

Helen wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them! And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10. Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true.

I see what you mean - I'd never noticed it before, but the Pens have "rankings" for family position implicit in the letters, with the numbers being more of a generational/chronological indication within their particular sub-group, whereas the OM-D cameras are all E-M, with the number indicating more their position in that range (I think it harks back to the OM film cameras, where the single digit models were higher up the range than the double-digits).

Easy naming...... maybe.....

"E-" denotes system cameras. They used to have "C-" and "D-" for other lesser lines but only the "E-" class name survived.

The Pens have "E-Px" for the top model, "E-PLx" for the Lite model with lesser features, "E-PMx" for the Mini models of the Pen. New of course will be the "Pen-F" so the naming has gone off in a new direction.

The DSLR lookalikes are the OM-D models, a real mess.

The very first one was the E-M5 as a nostalgic nod to the OM-4, last of the pro OM film cameras.  That was brought out too early in a time of total company stress when they really desperately needed a hero product to save their bacon. Good camera but oh, the number of firmware updates.

Then the flagship OM-D camera with E-M1 just to tell us that it was the #1 camera in the line.

Next the E-M10 came as the "beginner" OM-D and a bit of a nod to the old OM film camera naming, where the more digits, the "lesser" the model.

Yonks ago they had the film OM1/2/3/4 "for professionals", OM10/30/40 "for general users" with OM707 and OM101 thrown in there for confusion, and there was even an OM2000 which was a simpler body made for Olympus by Cosina but of course mounted the Olympus lenses.

Back to today..... then the fun really starts as the naming has been abandoned for the addition of Mark 2 to the names, so the E-M5 "replacement" became the E-M5 Mark 2 instead of the probably more logical E-M6. The E-M10 became the E-M10 Mark 2 instead of E-M11, and presumably next September we get the E-M1 Mark 2, instead of the E-M2.

OK the Mark2 stuff saved them from an obvious early numbering/naming collision, but that could have been largely avoided by starting the numbers properly in the beginning.

Maybe they should go choose flower names, let's have the Daisy, Petunia, and Freesia for a start.

Regards........ Guy

OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

Helen wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Obviously there's a limit to what you can do, but the option for super-small points was introduced if I recall correctly with the E-PL5/E-PM2 launch, and added retrospectively with a firmware update to the original E-M5 as well. You can position these singly (along with the larger sized ones), and for the (nearly) whole-screen grid of multipoint focusing you can also choose to have a smaller group instead, and to move this around a bit if you prefer. The flexibility isn't endless by any means, but pretty useful.

Wow, so you can have different sized focus points all operating at the same time? Interesting!

Sorry, I can be prone to an ambiguous turn of phrase at times! No, any you have operating at the same time are the same size as one another. With the "permanent" AF spots, which are the square ones, the super-small ones are for use one at a time. The larger squares, which are big enough to touch each other when they are all on show in the AF point selection grid (i.e. when you have for example pressed the "left" key on the multicontroller to access it, with the multicontroller set to Direct Function), give the choice of using one at a time, or letting the camera auto-select one at a time from anywhere on the whole available grid according to what it picks as the subject on which to focus. You can also select a smaller group for this mode, of 9 squares (3 x 3), and you can position this around the screen to your preference - the camera will then only auto-pick from within it. This group shrinks to 6 squares at the edges of the full array because you have the option to "overshoot" the border by one square (it's easier to try out than describe!) and you can do this in all directions, so you can shrink the area covered in the extreme corners to a square of four if you want.

The tiny square (one in use at a time) is shown by a fine, black, square outline to show where it is set. It illuminates in green momentarily as it AF-locks. The larger square (usable singly or in a restricted, manually positionable group of between 9 and 4, as described above) is shown by one set of four fine, black corner brackets, whether single or a group. One single larger square will illuminate in green briefly on AF lock - obviously so if you are only using one, but also if you are using a group - just to show which has been picked by the camera. When you are using the whole screen area (35 of the larger squares, actually not the whole screen as the edges aren't covered), no boxes or brackets show in black, but the single, larger green square that is picked by the camera will briefly show at AF lock, as normal (all this is AF-S of course). In C-AF, one will show on initial focus acquisition, but not again - but it appears they still have the ability to move around the grid if several are active, as required.

I have the simple cross-hairs grid overlay on my LCD (and EVF where applicable) as it is unobtrusive and helps me see whether a single AF point is centred or not (it's easy to re-centre with a long press of OK, but nevertheless I find it helpful).

Then of course you've got your less-permanent option of the green rectangle AF points, accessible by touchscreen or magnifier key, with their optional 5x, 7x, 10x, 14x crop-come-magnification feature. 14x is my favourite for tightly controlled focusing, but it's a heck of a handful if you choose to magnify it to full screen as you're looking at such a huge magnification.

The thing I find somewhat annoying about Olympus menus is that some of the submenus have like 10 different settings under them and others have only 2.

I guess, but it's logical (to me, many others might disagree!) because each submenu is categorised by what it covers - AF, buttons and dials, and so on. The submenu heading categories are even a little bit \(but not totally!) alphabetised, I just realised. The only thing I could quibble with is occasionally I may think "why is this in the Camera 1 or 2 menu, rather than a relevant gear menu?" Even that has become a bit more straightforward on the latest models, which have had a very tiny reorganisation (not enough to upset me) but more usefully offer the option to remember the last-used position.

Oh they just keep adding new features dont they I can't help but think that they could retroactively put all these features in previous models with a firmware update! I read the E-PL7 manual too to see what I was going to be missing for the extra $250 (the manual is about 50 pages longer than the one for my camera) and I didn't really see anything in there that you can't do out of camera in post process. Of course the LCD has a higher resolution which is a plus. Also, found the price confusingly close to that of the EM10; if they are the same price (or even within $50 of each other) the EM10 is a nobrainer. Even though the EM10 doesn't seem to have any features the E-PL7 doesn't have, the body does seem more sturdy.

The LCD is also bigger on the E-PL7. It's got that upside-down design to the facing-forward screen (dubious, but the folding mechanism for normal tilting is stronger and smoother to use, at least), it has Live Composite, the option of EFCS (a big plus in my experience), a nice, chunky control dial around the shutter release which you can use with thumb or forefinger (the rear multicontroller ring of models before can get over-sensitive with time on some examples), and the 3-axis IBIS is definitely a big improvement on the 2-axis. Yes, in the UK where I live the E-PL7 has also been illogically priced compared with the E-M10 too, given that the former doesn't include an EVF or two control dials. Aside: up to the E-M10 II, all OM-D models are painted, not plated/anodised. The E-M10 II is finished like a black or silver E-PL7 (anodised), though a less "champagne" tone in the silver version. Just saying for info...

Hi, sorry for the late response!  I was curious what are the shutter speeds of shutter shock so I know to avoid it!  I wonder why this issue exists, since mirrorless cameras are supposed to be like compact cameras, except with bigger sensors?  Never had this issue with the C-7070

I am going to use either shutter priority or full manual so I can avoid the dreaded shutter shock issue.  Also wondering why setting anti shock to 1/8 sec doesn't help- is it because the mechanical shutter is still being used, while the E-PL7 uses an electronic shutter with antishock 0 sec mode?

Something else I was wondering about is there a way to set exposure compensation in manual mode? I want to use it to change the ISO with a single button press when AUTO ISO is set.

I was reading somewhere that the real controller either wears down or becomes more sensitive after using it for awhile, is this true, Helen?

Are all the Pens and Pen-Lites made of metal while the OM-D's are part metal, part plastic?

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Naming

Guy Parsons wrote:

Helen wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them! And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10. Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true.

I see what you mean - I'd never noticed it before, but the Pens have "rankings" for family position implicit in the letters, with the numbers being more of a generational/chronological indication within their particular sub-group, whereas the OM-D cameras are all E-M, with the number indicating more their position in that range (I think it harks back to the OM film cameras, where the single digit models were higher up the range than the double-digits).

Easy naming...... maybe.....

"E-" denotes system cameras. They used to have "C-" and "D-" for other lesser lines but only the "E-" class name survived.

The Pens have "E-Px" for the top model, "E-PLx" for the Lite model with lesser features, "E-PMx" for the Mini models of the Pen. New of course will be the "Pen-F" so the naming has gone off in a new direction.

The DSLR lookalikes are the OM-D models, a real mess.

The very first one was the E-M5 as a nostalgic nod to the OM-4, last of the pro OM film cameras. That was brought out too early in a time of total company stress when they really desperately needed a hero product to save their bacon. Good camera but oh, the number of firmware updates.

Then the flagship OM-D camera with E-M1 just to tell us that it was the #1 camera in the line.

Next the E-M10 came as the "beginner" OM-D and a bit of a nod to the old OM film camera naming, where the more digits, the "lesser" the model.

Yonks ago they had the film OM1/2/3/4 "for professionals", OM10/30/40 "for general users" with OM707 and OM101 thrown in there for confusion, and there was even an OM2000 which was a simpler body made for Olympus by Cosina but of course mounted the Olympus lenses.

Back to today..... then the fun really starts as the naming has been abandoned for the addition of Mark 2 to the names, so the E-M5 "replacement" became the E-M5 Mark 2 instead of the probably more logical E-M6. The E-M10 became the E-M10 Mark 2 instead of E-M11, and presumably next September we get the E-M1 Mark 2, instead of the E-M2.

OK the Mark2 stuff saved them from an obvious early numbering/naming collision, but that could have been largely avoided by starting the numbers properly in the beginning.

Maybe they should go choose flower names, let's have the Daisy, Petunia, and Freesia for a start.

Regards........ Guy

Wow, lots of history with Olympus! I've owned their Camedia line, compact cameras with a dignified history too.  Back in the early 00s, Olympus and Nikon used to compete at the top of the compact market- that was the golden era of compact cameras, before they were cheapened and dumbed down and superseded (for the most part) by cell phone cameras (except for superzooms of course.)

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
Helen
Helen Veteran Member • Posts: 7,606
Re: Setting up new E-PL6

alexisgreat wrote:

Hi, sorry for the late response! I was curious what are the shutter speeds of shutter shock so I know to avoid it! I wonder why this issue exists, since mirrorless cameras are supposed to be like compact cameras, except with bigger sensors? Never had this issue with the C-7070

It varies according to the lens in use and the camera model (some say it doesn't exist at all) - it's a rather complex set of variables which contribute to whether it becomes visible in a shot. With, say, the kit zoom at 42 mm, it could show up between 1/100 and 1/160 - annoyingly, the typical "safe" handholdable speeds you'd normally use. The reason for it is the vertical running focal plane shutter, as on a DSLR - no mirror to slap of course, but a close, open sequence before the exposure (the close, reopen after the exposure not being a problem except maybe in sequential shooting). Your C-7070 has a leaf shutter either in or just behind the lens, operating in a more iris-like manner - a very low-noise, low-impact shutter type that is not ideally suited for use with interchangeable lenses (though it's been done in 35mm film SLRs of the fifties and sixties, and longer for medium format, but it usually means expensive lenses and added complexity, with increased potential for unreliability in some of the 35mm ones).

I am going to use either shutter priority or full manual so I can avoid the dreaded shutter shock issue. Also wondering why setting anti shock to 1/8 sec doesn't help- is it because the mechanical shutter is still being used, while the E-PL7 uses an electronic shutter with antishock 0 sec mode?

1/8 AS can sometimes help and it's by no means certain you will see a problem. But electronic first curtain shutter, achieved with 0 sec AS on the later models, is very effective, and fully electronic shutter on the Mark II OM-Ds avoids the risk altogether, though with its own caveats.

Something else I was wondering about is there a way to set exposure compensation in manual mode? I want to use it to change the ISO with a single button press when AUTO ISO is set.

Unfortunately, not possible in M mode. A couple of other brands allow it. I suppose a clunky workaround would be to temporarily fiddle around with the exposure shift function for the metering mode you are using in the Utility gear menu. It doesn't have a wide range of adjustability though, doesn't show on the display and is easy to forget and leave set accidentally! Oh, and it curtails the exposure compensation range - in modes with access to that feature - at the ends of the ISO range. It's more intended for tuning a camera whose metering seems a bit "off", even if only in one metering type, so is handy nonetheless (I've only ever had to use it on one camera).

I was reading somewhere that the real controller either wears down or becomes more sensitive after using it for awhile, is this true, Helen

Yes, I have experienced this issue. I wonder if it is more connected with a prolonged period of "rest" for the camera, actually - but maybe wear can lead to it, too. It's not certain to happen, of course.

Are all the Pens and Pen-Lites made of metal while the OM-D's are part metal, part plastic?

It's tricky to be fully certain of exact materials, particularly under the skin, but from my observations the Pen E-P models have all had fully metal exteriors (most likely pressed/formed aluminium alloy with a kind of metal sheeting on the brushed areas of the earlier ones, but perhaps a cast top plate on the E-P5, can't quite decide). The E-PL1 and 2 had aluminium alloy fronts with a plastic back half - so does the E-PM2, but the E-PL3, 5, 6 and 7 plus the E-PM1 also have a metal back half. The E-M5 and E-M5 Mark II have cast magnesium alloy top plates and the base and front half of the middle are also metal (probably the same material at least in the case of the front half, which is of course skinned on the front with leatherette, and the metal is very possibly pressed/formed for the base); on the E-M1, the back is cast too, but the fives have the back skinned in polycarbonate so I guess what's under that part is a mystery. The E-M10 models have the middle and back section (i.e. the leatheretted front part and the back - basically the black parts of a silver camera) in polycarbonate, but the top and base are metal, with a pressed aluminium alloy cap on the pop up flash. I suspect the top and base of the E-M10 original MIGHT still be mag alloy as it is painted like the senior models (but so is the aluminium flash cover, so it could be aluminium - forgive the extra syllable, I'm British!). The E-M10 Mark II's metal parts are more likely aluminium alloy since they are anodised like on the silver and the black versions of the E-PL5 and 7 (though if your E-PL6 is black, you'll know that variant is painted).

Helen
Helen Veteran Member • Posts: 7,606
Re: Naming

alexisgreat wrote:

Guy Parsons wrote:

Helen wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

One thing I dont like about Olympus is their naming scheme...... E-PL5, E-P5, I always confuse them! And OM-D E-M1/5/10, I just call them EM1,5,10. Also the way the numbering scheme is, at least theoretically, the higher up you go in number the more advanced the camera should be, with the "EM's" the reverse is true.

I see what you mean - I'd never noticed it before, but the Pens have "rankings" for family position implicit in the letters, with the numbers being more of a generational/chronological indication within their particular sub-group, whereas the OM-D cameras are all E-M, with the number indicating more their position in that range (I think it harks back to the OM film cameras, where the single digit models were higher up the range than the double-digits).

Easy naming...... maybe.....

"E-" denotes system cameras. They used to have "C-" and "D-" for other lesser lines but only the "E-" class name survived.

The Pens have "E-Px" for the top model, "E-PLx" for the Lite model with lesser features, "E-PMx" for the Mini models of the Pen. New of course will be the "Pen-F" so the naming has gone off in a new direction.

The DSLR lookalikes are the OM-D models, a real mess.

The very first one was the E-M5 as a nostalgic nod to the OM-4, last of the pro OM film cameras. That was brought out too early in a time of total company stress when they really desperately needed a hero product to save their bacon. Good camera but oh, the number of firmware updates.

Then the flagship OM-D camera with E-M1 just to tell us that it was the #1 camera in the line.

Next the E-M10 came as the "beginner" OM-D and a bit of a nod to the old OM film camera naming, where the more digits, the "lesser" the model.

Yonks ago they had the film OM1/2/3/4 "for professionals", OM10/30/40 "for general users" with OM707 and OM101 thrown in there for confusion, and there was even an OM2000 which was a simpler body made for Olympus by Cosina but of course mounted the Olympus lenses.

Back to today..... then the fun really starts as the naming has been abandoned for the addition of Mark 2 to the names, so the E-M5 "replacement" became the E-M5 Mark 2 instead of the probably more logical E-M6. The E-M10 became the E-M10 Mark 2 instead of E-M11, and presumably next September we get the E-M1 Mark 2, instead of the E-M2.

OK the Mark2 stuff saved them from an obvious early numbering/naming collision, but that could have been largely avoided by starting the numbers properly in the beginning.

Maybe they should go choose flower names, let's have the Daisy, Petunia, and Freesia for a start.

Regards........ Guy

Wow, lots of history with Olympus! I've owned their Camedia line, compact cameras with a dignified history too. Back in the early 00s, Olympus and Nikon used to compete at the top of the compact market- that was the golden era of compact cameras, before they were cheapened and dumbed down and superseded (for the most part) by cell phone cameras (except for superzooms of course.)

Ah, the nostalgia.  My first proper camera was the 35mm film Olympus OM10, and my first serious digital an Olympus C2040z (it was my second digital, the first was the Fujifilm MX500, a rather nice little non-zoom camera, very nicely built actually but not too flexible in use).

John King
John King Forum Pro • Posts: 14,941
Re: Naming

Gidday Helen

I still have a mint OM-10, with the plug in manual shutter speed adapter. Takes very nice photos.

My first camera was a box Brownie back in the 1950s ... the Leicas, OM-1, etc,  came after a procession of viewfinder cameras ...

-- hide signature --

Regards, john from Melbourne, Australia.
.
Please do not embed images from my web site without prior permission
I consider this to be a breach of my copyright.
-- -- --
.
The Camera doth not make the Man (nor Woman) ...
Perhaps being kind to cats, dogs & children does ...
.
Galleries: http://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/v/main-page/

Bird Control Officers on active service.

 John King's gear list:John King's gear list
Olympus E-1 Olympus E-510 Olympus E-30 Olympus E-M1 Olympus Zuiko Digital 14-54mm 1:2.8-3.5 II +17 more
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum MMy threads