Hen3ry
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Posts: 18,218
Re: I CAN see the differences now! Thanks, Warren, great!
Big D in SP wrote:
Hen3ry wrote:
But then, I can't download those full frame files. how about posting a 100% crop or three after you have done a somewhat more valid test. Base ISO, brighter light (with a bit of contrast in it).
I like the test subject, actually, but it needs to have cross lighting on it.
The 14-42 II is a very, very good lens, by the way.
Here are few more shots in differing light, a few with center crops in bright side light, Henry.
All were shot as OOC JPG at 200 ISO, Standard Photo Style with no additional mods other than setting NR to minimum -5 (at which it's always set for minimum NR in camera. I prefer, when needed, to use other software for NR.) The camera was on a tripod. No software mods of any kind were applied other than cropping and re-saving as compressed JPG. (Nikon Capture NX-2)
My take so far: The 25mm 1.7 lacks the center sharpness I'd hoped to see, although I agree it holds the same level of sharpness across the frame. The faster aperture does aid in low light focusing and lowers ISO and it appears to be as sharp wide open as stopped down, though again, sharpness isn't it's long suit. It's a larger lens than one would think it needed to be when comparing it to the Panny 20mm or Olympus 25mm f1.8. I've found mine to slightly miss focus with AF more often than my other lenses as well, which is why I've shot at least 3-4 shots each time, refocusing after each shot and picking the best one. Personally, I think it's related to the fact the center sharpness of the lens isn't quite to the standard of the other tested lenses.
In summary: It's well worth the price paid during Black Friday, however, at full list price, I'd be inclined to purchase the Olympus model, even if slightly more expensive. It's smaller, has an insignificant difference in max aperture. Or, the Panny 20mm f1.7 which has a great rep for sharpness and is very compact. (In fact, that may be the way I'll go. I do like that focal length for general shooting.)
The photos are posted only for information for others who may be interested in this lens. My opinion is only that....an opinion....which each of us has. Remember, this is only one example and may be on the lower end of the spectrum regarding sharpness. Nevertheless, at print sizes under 11"x14" the difference is most probably not visible, and, at the price for which it's been available, nothing else (new) comes close with that max aperture. I'll be keeping it.
May your next year be an enjoyable one!
Warren -- that's terrific; everyone interested in this lens should be your friend. A great set of examples.
After I posted, I actually thought: "Hey, Geoffrey, what sort of a demanding smart a*se are you?" I was embarrassed and went back to delete the post. But unfortunately -- or fortunately a it turns out -- I was too late, someone had already looked at it.
The Sigma certainly has an edge but is some of that higher contrast in the sigma picture -- or slightly more exposure? The white is whiter; the light tones in the white are much fainter or not there at all. The Panny lens is very close at 3.2 though.
If I had this lens, I wonder whether this would be a continuing niggle for me. I do have this thing about quality tools within reason (i.e. the kind of reason that comes from my pocket!) but it is modified by the kind of use I expect to get from it.
For example: not quite as sharp? But is it within one step (whatever that is) of minimum PP sharpening to match the sharpness I would get from the Leica equivalent which would cost a month's rent? If I were specializing in landscape work with the lens, then maybe the Leica would be the go. But for just general shooting? Hmmm… Alternatively, would the 30mm of the Sigma narrow the FOV enough to rule it out? (That Sigma is actually an APS-C lens, I believe -- it must be a total killer in that format.)
The question of focus. I don't know whether you have ever tried this, but take a newspaper spread, stick it to the wall, rule a black line down it about 2/3rds of the way into one side, then photograph that at an angle of about 30-45 degrees from the plane of the wall. Focus on the black line. Look at the sharpness of the type each side of the line for front focusing or back focusing.
For longer distances, you have the perfect target there -- the picket fence. just add a target to one picket, then focus on that, shooting at an angle. Any focusing error will be obvious.
Once again, Warren, thank you for a very informative and well executed response to Mr Smartypants!
And the very best of New Year wishes to you.