NX-Mini mount register distance

Surprising ! Maybe Your NX-mini's AF worked better inside Your lighting conditions ?

It also holds true for outdoor shots as well. The below is a JPEG converted from the SRW file in Photoshop, with the default sharpening settings (without any added sharpening).

The cactus pot was in the window with natural light on a cloudy day. How is the sharpness? I will take more photos soon.

I think that's some useless pain ! For a few $ you'll find a 9-27 which is much sharper :
see what the NX-mini can do with that lens in a ray of sun : Posts #1012, #1014 :
https://www.chassimages.com/forum/index.php/topic,227743.1000.html
Please forgive me : my first macro shots at f/7 without a viewfinder !

You're absolutely right, but unfortunately, because of the US sanctions, we in Iran cannot buy anything from international websites, e.g. Amazon, Aliexpress, etc. The thought of removing the protective glass rose in my mind because the 9-27mm lens isn't available to me.

With some luck, a rare and Sharp 17mm f/1.8 OIS is available !

This is unavailable to me as well.

I think my comment about DPR's camera of the decade will make you laugh :
have-your-say-most-important-cameras-of-the-2010sI just replaced Samsungs by NX-mini ?

😊

It sounded a true comment rather than something to laugh at. 😊

It also holds true for outdoor shots as well. The below is a JPEG converted from the SRW file in Photoshop, with the default sharpening settings (without any added sharpening).
The cactus pot was in the window with natural light on a cloudy day. How is the sharpness? I will take more photos soon.

Such impressive amount of details isn't the performance of 20MP sensors w/o AA filter ?
What makes you think the removal of the IRcut filter has something to do with that ?
- Except AF unaccuracy with the IR-Cut filter in place ? Thus solved at removal :
Pentax Q10 w/o IR-Cut filter is also Sharper for Macro-Photo...
... but it can't anymore autofocus to infinity !.. Just trying to understand...

a Filter Shifts the Focus Position by ~1/3 of its Thickness

You're absolutely right, but unfortunately, because of the US sanctions, we in Iran cannot buy anything from international websites, e.g. Amazon, Aliexpress, etc. The thought of removing the protective glass rose in my mind because the 9-27mm lens isn't available to me... This is unavailable to me as well.

Ok... The business web is under embargo too ?
Then, how did you manage to buy another NX-mini ? Was it sold w/ or w/o its lens ?

It sounded a true comment rather than something to laugh at. 😊

No, not to laugh at my comment, 😊 but at these 5 cameras " of the decade "
- Leica T ; Nikon 1 J1, 1V1 ; Samsung NX10, Galaxy NX !
... Some not even being reviewed, and other being rated so low :
have-your-say-most-important-cameras-of-the-2010s

What makes you think the removal of the IRcut filter has something to do with that ?

I believe any glass layer (even of the highest quality) in front of the sensor reduces the clarity of the image produced by the sensor. Furthermore, this glass filter may also contain AA layers, doesn't it? I didn't find that for sure if the NX mini has (or doesn't have) an AA filter.

This says it is fixed.

This says it doesn't have.

Ok... The business web is under embargo too ?
Then, how did you manage to buy another NX-mini ? Was it sold w/ or w/o its lens ?

There is our limited online local market/business. I am easily able to find NX mini cameras + 9mm lens, but there are no 9-27mm, 17mm, or the external flash. My other NX mini is also with a 9mm lens.

No, not to laugh at my comment, 😊 but at these 5 cameras " of the decade "
- Leica T ; Nikon 1 J1, 1V1 ; Samsung NX10, Galaxy NX !

Hahaha, so who says these are the five cameras of the decade??

siamak_86 wrote:

I believe any glass layer (Even of the Highest Quality) in front of the sensor reduces the clarity of the image produced by the sensor. Furthermore, this glass filter may also contain AA layers, doesn't it? I didn't find that for sure if the NX mini has (or doesn't have) an AA filter. This says it is fixed.

This says it doesn't have.

No Siamak, you should have Striked this as a fake : Even of the Highest Quality
because there is always 1 Protective Glass in front of the pixels !

The NX-mini doesn't have any AA filter, I'll prove that later...
I've got a Better Argument : NX-mini's Sensitivity
Watch my last M1, Crab-Nebula at the end of that page :
https://www.chassimages.com/forum/index.php/topic,236962.125.html
You will see the Left-Half of M1 has Green Filaments all around !
I am the very first one to show these Green Filaments at the Left-Half of M1 :
- No Filters were mounted
- No Special things were done with DeepSkyStacker, Elements-3.0
- The Picture is Ugly : Not Downsampled = Ratio 1:1
- The Picture is Ugly : Cold Wind blowing over Warm Sea = Huge Turbulence !
... bottom of previous page shows a picture of M27 taken through steady air.

What do you think these Green Filaments could be Siamak ?

There is our limited online local market/business. I am easily able to find NX mini cameras + 9mm lens, but there are no 9-27mm, 17mm, or the external flash. My other NX mini is also with a 9mm lens.

NX-mini + 9mm, nothing else on local market !

Hahaha, so who says these are the five cameras of the decade??

Dpreview staff who choose these 'Cameras of the Decade'

Would be very happy to see your IR-photos...

With my NX Mini, I just shot some full spectrum photos, which I share here with you now.

Hi Siamak !

I like the #2 & #3 for their Fantastic Night Colors !
... and the #5 for its Composition & Gamma,
others are Overexposed to my taste.

F/8 suggestion to avoid lens Field Curvature and/or lack of Depth of Field...

A bit of UnderExposure is the best way to Maximise the Sensor Capabilities

Here is one NX-mini's Single Exposure : ISO-400, 4min. F/4.7...
... Pushed to the Max in DeepSkyStacker, just before it becomes totally UGLY !
You can even see the Green Filaments I spoke about in my last post -
.

Messier-1 crop - ISO-400 - 240sec. single Exposure - F/4.7 SkyWatcher Newtonian - DeepSkyStacker pushed to the Max screen shot - Light Value = -5.5 Ev

- last post you haven't answered yet...

I like the #2 & #3 for their Fantastic Night Colors !

The only source of illumination was some yellow lights (sodium light bulbs maybe) in the park, which I guess was full of IR radiation.

... and the #5 for its Composition & Gamma,
others are Overexposed to my taste.

I didn't add any saturation/vibrance to the #5, but I did to the others.

I'll edit the other shots differently (no extra saturation) and will share them here.

F/8 suggestion to avoid lens Field Curvature and/or lack of Depth of Field...

I'll try it as soon as I find some green foliages. I was in my hometown (a semi-tropical climate where plants are active all year round) when I shot these, but now I'm back. However, I've just been afraid of narrowing the aperture to F/8 because of possible diffraction and so loss of sharpness. F/5.6 for a 1" sensor already produces a lot of depth of field. 🤔

Last post you haven't answered yet...

Sorry, I didn't see any notifications, so I thought you had ended the conversation. 😜

Anyway, this green pollution in your picture is hard for me to find the reason for.

NX-mini + 9mm, nothing else on local market !

This is unfortunate. I also want the external flash and a wired/wireless remote shutter, but not found here. 😔

I'll edit the other shots differently and will share them here.

Are they better now?

Here are some more night shots:

And this is a landscape portraiture:

And one sunset shot:

And the below is an edited shot:

siamak_86 wrote:

The only source of illumination in the #2 & #3 was some yellow lights (sodium light bulbs maybe) in the park, which I guess was full of IR radiation.

their Brightness / Contrast / Saturation balance are pleasing !

I didn't add any saturation/vibrance to the #5, but I did to the others.

same as above + Composition !

F/8 suggestion to avoid lens Field-Curvature and/or lack of Depth of Field...

I'll try it as soon as I find some green foliages. I was in my hometown (a semi-tropical climate where plants are active all year round) when I shot these, but now I'm back. However, I've just been afraid of narrowing the aperture to F/8 because of possible diffraction and so loss of sharpness. F/5.6 for a 1" sensor already produces a lot of
depth of field.

Pics from your Full-Spectrum NX-mini show Center Sharpness but Borders Blur...
That's why I spoke about Field-Curvature and / or Lack of Depth of Field...
Maybe you should see what happens with Manual Focus on a Brick Flat Wall ?
Maybe a side effect of the Filter Removal ?
I shot a single LandScape at F/8 to show the Filter Removal effect :
http://mecastronics.free.fr/SamsungNXminiTopIR.html

Anyway, this green pollution in your picture is hard for me to find the reason for.

This is Not "Green Pollution", but rather Rarely Shown Parts of the M1 Nebula !
I recently found a Challenge entirely dedicated to M1 :
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/304169-january-2011-challenge-entries-m1/
3 Pictures show these Green Parts : those from MikeML, sdbodin, DeanS.
Green Parts are visible at the opposite side of the 2 nearest stars around M1 :

M1 Crab-Nebula picture (30 .SRW files stacked) shows Green-Parts // Green highlighted

This is a true Sensitivity Performance from a $100 " Selfie Camera " mounted on a $300 SkyWatcher 254 / 1200 newtonian in a stormy and well lit city at sea side !

I like #3, #6, #7, #8 & #10, Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, Composition are pleasing

their Brightness / Contrast / Saturation balance are pleasing !

I didn't add any saturation/vibrance to the #5, but I did to the others.

same as above + Composition !

Thank you for your encouraging comments.

Pics from your Full-Spectrum NX-mini show Center Sharpness but Borders Blur...
That's why I spoke about Field-Curvature and / or Lack of Depth of Field...
Maybe you should see what happens with Manual Focus on a Brick Flat Wall ?
Maybe a side effect of the Filter Removal ?
I shot a single LandScape at F/8 to show the Filter Removal effect :
http://mecastronics.free.fr/SamsungNXminiTopIR.html

I will test that with my other 9mm lens to see if it is a lens problem or a side effect of the removal of the IR cut filter.

Anyway, this green pollution in your picture is hard for me to find the reason for.

This is Not "Green Pollution", but rather Rarely Shown Parts of the M1 Nebula !
I recently found a Challenge entirely dedicated to M1 :
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/304169-january-2011-challenge-entries-m1/
3 Pictures show these Green Parts : those from MikeML, sdbodin, DeanS.
Green Parts are visible at the opposite side of the 2 nearest stars around M1 :

M1 Crab-Nebula picture (30 .SRW files stacked) shows Green-Parts // Green highlighted

This is a true Sensitivity Performance from a $100 " Selfie Camera " mounted on a $300 SkyWatcher 254 / 1200 newtonian in a stormy and well lit city at sea side !

Good for you to produce outstanding images with these inexpensive devices. Congratulations.

I like #3, #6, #7, #8 & #10, Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, Composition are pleasing

Many thanks for your complement.

Hi Geo,

May I ask, what remote shutter do (or did) you use with your NX Mini?
There's an JJC for Samsung cameras: JJC S-NX.
The cables of S-NX and S-F1 (Fujifilm version) are exactly the same (and maybe the base devices too?).

I couldn't find the S-NX in Iran, so I thought the S-F1 might be working on Samsung cameras. I bought one, but it isn't working on the NX Mini.

I connected the cable to a Viltrox remote shutter (an intervalometer). It didn't work on the NX Mini either.

I also connected a Nikon cable to the S-F1 device. It worked with Nikon D3300. So the device functions well.

I'm just trying to get it working, both for the use of "bulb" and perhaps an intervalometer for some time-laps videos.

Any ideas?

siamak_86 wrote:

Hi Geo,

May I ask, what remote shutter do (or did) you use with your NX Mini?
There's an JJC for Samsung cameras : JJC S-NX.

Hi Siamak ... Thanks for your congratulations !

I don't know about Samsung S-NX ? nor about Fujifilm ?

What you need is a SR2NX02 or compatible Shutter Release Cable

My Universal Intervalometer Timer Remote Control Shutter didn't had that one,
but interesting thing to know, the Exposure will Automatically end after 4 min,
during 2 years, I used a slightly bent Lollypop Stick hold by a Rubber Band,
I just had to rotate it a quarter turn to launch a 4 min. long Exposure :
( easy to End the Exposure of course by rotating it once more )
.

A slightly bent Lollypop Stick hold by a Rubber Band solved my Intervalometer Timer Remote Control Shutter lack of SR2NX02 plug for 2 years !

Plus, in case, 2 different diagrams of a NX(-mini) Shutter Release Cable :
.

2 diagrams of a NX(-mini) Wired Shutter Release System

Hope this will help...

I am now fighting against the winter weather ( clouds, storms, turbulence, wind... ) to try to stack about 30x 4-min. Exposures of M-42 Orion Nebula at ISO 100 :
M42-Orion iSO-100 23-subs-1h30 NX-mini

I don't know about Samsung S-NX ? nor about Fujifilm ?

Both ends of the cable are the same with the Fujifilm and the Samsung version, but maybe the connections are different.

What you need is a SR2NX02 or compatible Shutter Release Cable

OK. Thanks.

My Universal Intervalometer Timer Remote Control Shutter didn't had that one,
but interesting thing to know, the Exposure will Automatically end after 4 min

I don't think I'll need more than 1 min.

Hope this will help...

Of course it does help.

I am now fighting against the winter weather ( clouds, storms, turbulence, wind... ) to try to stack about 30x 4-min. Exposures of M-42 Orion Nebula at ISO 100 :
M42-Orion iSO-100 23-subs-1h30 NX-mini

That is going to result in some great output. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

By the way, here are some photos I've recently taken with this magical little camera.

I had forgotten to correct the date of the camera. So the dates in the exif data are wrong.

siamak_86 wrote :

I don't think I'll need more than 1 min.

Hi Siamak, sorry for the late reply...

It's Easy to stop the Exposure at the Exact Time needed :
a Timer is displayed on the NX-mini's LCD

Of course it does help.

A corrected version of both diagrams :

Samsung NX (-mini) Wired Shutter Release Systems

That is going to result in some great output. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Here are the results of 2 months of " Astrophotographer under the Storm"
It was very, very difficult to get Detailed & Sharp Sub-Frames !
DSS's huge range from Best to Worst M-1 Subs :

DeepSkyStacker's huge range from the Best (M) to the Worst (P) M-1 Sub-frames

M-1... Magenta-One ?

M-42 Orion Space Warrior...

By the way, here are some photos I've recently taken with this magical little camera.
I had forgotten to correct the date of the camera. So the dates in the exif data are wrong.

The 1st one, the Panorama is splendid ! And Sharp from corner to corner !
I think you took it Before the IR-filter Removal, didn't you ?

Hi friend, sorry for the very late reply. I don't know why I don't receive any notifications for this thread!

By the way, I just received the S-NX cable, and did a nightsky time-lapse to get started.

Here are the results of 2 months of " Astrophotographer under the Storm"
It was very, very difficult to get Detailed & Sharp Sub-Frames !
DSS's huge range from Best to Worst M-1 Subs :

DeepSkyStacker's huge range from the Best (M) to the Worst (P) M-1 Sub-frames

M-1... Magenta-One ?

M-42 Orion Space Warrior...

Woooow, such hard work!

The 1st one, the Panorama is splendid ! And Sharp from corner to corner !
I think you took it Before the IR-filter Removal, didn't you ?

Thanks. Yes and no. I took it with my other NX Mini. I've got two, one is normal and the other is full-spectrum.