Anyone successfully peeled off trublack LCD coating on RX100 MK1?

Like a lot of other people, mine is bubbling/distorting and is like to remove it. But it's on really snug and I'm worried about scratching the underlying glass.

Thanks.

smileman wrote:

Like a lot of other people, mine is bubbling/distorting and is like to remove it. But it's on really snug and I'm worried about scratching the underlying glass.

Thanks.

I ordered this for all my cams

click for link

After you get it you can peel off the the one on cam. Just grab a corned and work it off slowly...It is hard to peel but can be done slowly

I've heard that sometimes dental floss works to get it started.  I have the first model also, but I haven't noticed anything getting air bubbles in it yet.

I just peeled the factory coating off my old m1 and my brand new m3. Replaced with Larmor glass covers, I highly recommend doing it.

1. remove the coating: It is a strong film, it does not rip into pieces, you get one corner started a bit, I used a small knife, others have mentioned dental floss. then pull slowly and firmly. m1 hold the body, m2 or m3 hold the lcd against the body so it doesn't move, pull.

you can see that the thick factory cover (off, curled up) is not fully transparent

the larmor kit and installation procedure is excellent: fear not, you will be able to get it on straight, no fingerprints, no air bubbles. Notice the black border, the wider right side goes on the right. I put both of mine on upside down, and just as they say, easy removal, and re-install

It comes with a cleaning wipe for the camera's glass surface, and both sides of the new glass protector are covered with film that you remove, which is why you won't get fingerprints on it.

Press from the center, it self adheres as they say, unlike film covers, you get no air bubbles.

Done, improved protection and visibility, $15.

This is why I recommend finding an open box m3 with scratches on the lcd, that is often what gets the price down, and you do this to it and get the factory warranty.

http://www.amazon.com/LARMOR-Self-Adhesive-Optical-Screen-Protector/dp/B00AY2PSZQ

How about a flat toothpick to get under a corner? Never actually taken mine off, but someone here must have.

smileman wrote:

It's too tight for all of these prying techniques.

What about a stickum remover like goo off?

no might ruin lcd screen. try a sharp paring knife to get corner started.

smileman wrote:

Neither a knife nor floss is working for me, the seal is too tight.

Is anyone familiar with the process Sony uses? I thought I read something about applying heat?

There is no way you cannot get it started with a very thin bladed knife, like an exacto knife, or razor blade from a paint scraper. It is thicker than you think, once a corner is up, you need to pull very strongly.

elliottnewcomb wrote:

I just peeled the factory coating off my old m1 and my brand new m3. Replaced with Larmor glass covers, I highly recommend doing it.

Very nice!

Thanks for the detailed post.

What about using some kind of strong sticky tape to stick near the corner and pull it up using that?

DaveOl wrote:

What about using some kind of strong sticky tape to stick near the corner and pull it up using that?

Hey folks:

Are we supposed to remove it?  I just checked mine and I don't think it is meant to be removed and I'd be afraid to do it.  This is not like the film of cheap plastic over the screen of a cheap cell phone.

For those who had successfully removed it, did it really block any light and was it noticeable?

joechan32 wrote:

DaveOl wrote:

What about using some kind of strong sticky tape to stick near the corner and pull it up using that?

Hey folks:

Are we supposed to remove it? I just checked mine and I don't think it is meant to be removed and I'd be afraid to do it. This is not like the film of cheap plastic over the screen of a cheap cell phone.

For those who had successfully removed it, did it really block any light and was it noticeable?

It's not really supposed to be removed. Ideally, you put on a screen protector on your LCD screen when it's brand new and then replace the screen protector when it gets scuffed up or scratched.

Some of us - me included - neglected to put a screen protector on (some of) our camera purchases. The factory supplied outer layer on the screen on both my NEX-7 and my original RX100 are in pretty bad shape. I haven't tried this fix yet, but I may if it gets worse.

As for the tape idea, I think it'll be difficult to find tape with adhesive strong enough to be able to lift the corner.

elliottnewcomb wrote:

I just peeled the factory coating off my old m1 and my brand new m3. Replaced with Larmor glass covers, I highly recommend doing it.

1. remove the coating: It is a strong film, it does not rip into pieces, you get one corner started a bit, I used a small knife, others have mentioned dental floss. then pull slowly and firmly. m1 hold the body, m2 or m3 hold the lcd against the body so it doesn't move, pull.

you can see that the thick factory cover (off, curled up) is not fully transparent

the larmor kit and installation procedure is excellent: fear not, you will be able to get it on straight, no fingerprints, no air bubbles. Notice the black border, the wider right side goes on the right. I put both of mine on upside down, and just as they say, easy removal, and re-install

It comes with a cleaning wipe for the camera's glass surface, and both sides of the new glass protector are covered with film that you remove, which is why you won't get fingerprints on it.

Press from the center, it self adheres as they say, unlike film covers, you get no air bubbles.

Done, improved protection and visibility, $15.

This is why I recommend finding an open box m3 with scratches on the lcd, that is often what gets the price down, and you do this to it and get the factory warranty.

http://www.amazon.com/LARMOR-Self-Adhesive-Optical-Screen-Protector/dp/B00AY2PSZQ

LCD.

We want to see to frame, see adjustments live prior to shooting, verify focus, verify exposure.

Transparency

If you look at a TV or a Tablet, the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare. They need to be positioned properly. If you cannot avoid glare in it's intended room, you get one with a layer of anti-glare coating. The images will not be as brilliant, but, with less glare, it will be MORE usable.

Cameras are the same. Sony's THICK STRONG ANTI-GLARE PLASTIC FILM, applied to the glass lcd, is meant to reduce glare, and protect the glass. It reduces full transparency, but also reduces reflected glare.

LCD 'Sunny Weather'

setting is very good, helps a lot in glare situations, at the beach, etc. Definitely try it.

Problems with coatings

It can de-laminate, as one of mine did, nasty, and visible when the camera is on.

Factory plastic film will scratch, many many micro scratches, and deeper scratches if not very careful. When the camera is on, most scratches are inconspicuous.

IF you add a layer of screen protector on top of the factory plastic anti-glare film, you are reducing transparency a bit, and the reflective quality is that of whatever you added.

Air bubbles, look nasty, but most are not visible when the camera is on. You can micro scratch the added film trying to get the air bubbles out, before you use it even once.

My prior method was to use cheap film, cut to fit, use until ugly, replace every few months.

EVF

solves MOST situations when LCD glare is excessive. Gives steadier shooting position. Only most, due to lack of an eye-cup, and any position when you cannot use the camera in EVF position, low shot of flowers, around someone's head in a concert, etc.

M1, LCD only

a case can be made for anti-glare coating, Sony's factory solution. Anti-glare will be MORE usable in many situations, especially when using the 'Sunny Weather' setting. Anti-glare screen protectors exist, to simply add protection to a factory lcd film, or to replace a removed factory film.

The primary reason to add something is to prevent scratches to the factory film, or remove and replace it due to excessive scratches.

M3, EVF and LCD

First, the M3 coating is softer than the M1 coating, it scratches more easily, and deeper than the M1 coating. Happily, that gives more Open Box scratched lcd opportunities.

EVF solves MOST glare situations, a case can be made for removing the factory coating, and adding a coating giving more transparency, (and more glare).

REMOVING FACTORY COATING

I was nervous, especially removing a factory fresh M3 coating, but, I am glad I did.

It definitely comes off. It is thicker than you imagine. It is stronger than you imagine, it is less transparent than you realize.

Some of you are being too gentle/timid. Just dig a corner up, and pull darn hard, no lift off stuff of any kind will work.

There is a wide black area of the lcd that is unused, if you are afraid of scratching the glass, start more aggressively with a corner on the right side.

Larmor Glass Cover $15.

It is glass, much harder to scratch, more transparent than Sony's factory film, and more glare, how much, hard to describe.

It self adheres easily as they say, no issue with bubbles. It removes and re-installs easily, I put both of mine on with the wide black bar on the left, removed and re-installed both easily.

elliottnewcomb wrote:

elliottnewcomb wrote:

I just peeled the factory coating off my old m1 and my brand new m3. Replaced with Larmor glass covers, I highly recommend doing it.

1. remove the coating: It is a strong film, it does not rip into pieces, you get one corner started a bit, I used a small knife, others have mentioned dental floss. then pull slowly and firmly. m1 hold the body, m2 or m3 hold the lcd against the body so it doesn't move, pull.

you can see that the thick factory cover (off, curled up) is not fully transparent

the larmor kit and installation procedure is excellent: fear not, you will be able to get it on straight, no fingerprints, no air bubbles. Notice the black border, the wider right side goes on the right. I put both of mine on upside down, and just as they say, easy removal, and re-install

It comes with a cleaning wipe for the camera's glass surface, and both sides of the new glass protector are covered with film that you remove, which is why you won't get fingerprints on it.

Press from the center, it self adheres as they say, unlike film covers, you get no air bubbles.

Done, improved protection and visibility, $15.

This is why I recommend finding an open box m3 with scratches on the lcd, that is often what gets the price down, and you do this to it and get the factory warranty.

http://www.amazon.com/LARMOR-Self-Adhesive-Optical-Screen-Protector/dp/B00AY2PSZQ

LCD.

We want to see to frame, see adjustments live prior to shooting, verify focus, verify exposure.

Transparency

If you look at a TV or a Tablet, the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare. They need to be positioned properly. If you cannot avoid glare in it's intended room, you get one with a layer of anti-glare coating. The images will not be as brilliant, but, with less glare, it will be MORE usable.

Cameras are the same. Sony's THICK STRONG ANTI-GLARE PLASTIC FILM, applied to the glass lcd, is meant to reduce glare, and protect the glass. It reduces full transparency, but also reduces reflected glare.

LCD 'Sunny Weather'

setting is very good, helps a lot in glare situations, at the beach, etc. Definitely try it.

Problems with coatings

It can de-laminate, as one of mine did, nasty, and visible when the camera is on.

Factory plastic film will scratch, many many micro scratches, and deeper scratches if not very careful. When the camera is on, most scratches are inconspicuous.

IF you add a layer of screen protector on top of the factory plastic anti-glare film, you are reducing transparency a bit, and the reflective quality is that of whatever you added.

Air bubbles, look nasty, but most are not visible when the camera is on. You can micro scratch the added film trying to get the air bubbles out, before you use it even once.

My prior method was to use cheap film, cut to fit, use until ugly, replace every few months.

EVF

solves MOST situations when LCD glare is excessive. Gives steadier shooting position. Only most, due to lack of an eye-cup, and any position when you cannot use the camera in EVF position, low shot of flowers, around someone's head in a concert, etc.

M1, LCD only

a case can be made for anti-glare coating, Sony's factory solution. Anti-glare will be MORE usable in many situations, especially when using the 'Sunny Weather' setting. Anti-glare screen protectors exist, to simply add protection to a factory lcd film, or to replace a removed factory film.

The primary reason to add something is to prevent scratches to the factory film, or remove and replace it due to excessive scratches.

M3, EVF and LCD

First, the M3 coating is softer than the M1 coating, it scratches more easily, and deeper than the M1 coating. Happily, that gives more Open Box scratched lcd opportunities.

EVF solves MOST glare situations, a case can be made for removing the factory coating, and adding a coating giving more transparency, (and more glare).

REMOVING FACTORY COATING

I was nervous, especially removing a factory fresh M3 coating, but, I am glad I did.

It definitely comes off. It is thicker than you imagine. It is stronger than you imagine, it is less transparent than you realize.

Some of you are being too gentle/timid. Just dig a corner up, and pull darn hard, no lift off stuff of any kind will work.

There is a wide black area of the lcd that is unused, if you are afraid of scratching the glass, start more aggressively with a corner on the right side.

Larmor Glass Cover $15.

It is glass, much harder to scratch, more transparent than Sony's factory film, and more glare, how much, hard to describe.

It self adheres easily as they say, no issue with bubbles. It removes and re-installs easily, I put both of mine on with the wide black bar on the left, removed and re-installed both easily.

elliottnewcomb wrote:

elliottnewcomb wrote:

I just peeled the factory coating off my old m1 and my brand new m3. Replaced with Larmor glass covers, I highly recommend doing it.

1. remove the coating: It is a strong film, it does not rip into pieces, you get one corner started a bit, I used a small knife, others have mentioned dental floss. then pull slowly and firmly. m1 hold the body, m2 or m3 hold the lcd against the body so it doesn't move, pull.

you can see that the thick factory cover (off, curled up) is not fully transparent

the larmor kit and installation procedure is excellent: fear not, you will be able to get it on straight, no fingerprints, no air bubbles. Notice the black border, the wider right side goes on the right. I put both of mine on upside down, and just as they say, easy removal, and re-install

It comes with a cleaning wipe for the camera's glass surface, and both sides of the new glass protector are covered with film that you remove, which is why you won't get fingerprints on it.

Press from the center, it self adheres as they say, unlike film covers, you get no air bubbles.

Done, improved protection and visibility, $15.

This is why I recommend finding an open box m3 with scratches on the lcd, that is often what gets the price down, and you do this to it and get the factory warranty.

http://www.amazon.com/LARMOR-Self-Adhesive-Optical-Screen-Protector/dp/B00AY2PSZQ

LCD.

We want to see to frame, see adjustments live prior to shooting, verify focus, verify exposure.

Transparency

If you look at a TV or a Tablet, the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare. They need to be positioned properly. If you cannot avoid glare in it's intended room, you get one with a layer of anti-glare coating. The images will not be as brilliant, but, with less glare, it will be MORE usable.

Cameras are the same. Sony's THICK STRONG ANTI-GLARE PLASTIC FILM, applied to the glass lcd, is meant to reduce glare, and protect the glass. It reduces full transparency, but also reduces reflected glare.

LCD 'Sunny Weather'

setting is very good, helps a lot in glare situations, at the beach, etc. Definitely try it.

Problems with coatings

It can de-laminate, as one of mine did, nasty, and visible when the camera is on.

Factory plastic film will scratch, many many micro scratches, and deeper scratches if not very careful. When the camera is on, most scratches are inconspicuous.

IF you add a layer of screen protector on top of the factory plastic anti-glare film, you are reducing transparency a bit, and the reflective quality is that of whatever you added.

Air bubbles, look nasty, but most are not visible when the camera is on. You can micro scratch the added film trying to get the air bubbles out, before you use it even once.

My prior method was to use cheap film, cut to fit, use until ugly, replace every few months.

EVF

solves MOST situations when LCD glare is excessive. Gives steadier shooting position. Only most, due to lack of an eye-cup, and any position when you cannot use the camera in EVF position, low shot of flowers, around someone's head in a concert, etc.

M1, LCD only

a case can be made for anti-glare coating, Sony's factory solution. Anti-glare will be MORE usable in many situations, especially when using the 'Sunny Weather' setting. Anti-glare screen protectors exist, to simply add protection to a factory lcd film, or to replace a removed factory film.

The primary reason to add something is to prevent scratches to the factory film, or remove and replace it due to excessive scratches.

M3, EVF and LCD

First, the M3 coating is softer than the M1 coating, it scratches more easily, and deeper than the M1 coating. Happily, that gives more Open Box scratched lcd opportunities.

EVF solves MOST glare situations, a case can be made for removing the factory coating, and adding a coating giving more transparency, (and more glare).

REMOVING FACTORY COATING

I was nervous, especially removing a factory fresh M3 coating, but, I am glad I did.

It definitely comes off. It is thicker than you imagine. It is stronger than you imagine, it is less transparent than you realize.

Some of you are being too gentle/timid. Just dig a corner up, and pull darn hard, no lift off stuff of any kind will work.

There is a wide black area of the lcd that is unused, if you are afraid of scratching the glass, start more aggressively with a corner on the right side.

Larmor Glass Cover $15.

It is glass, much harder to scratch, more transparent than Sony's factory film, and more glare, how much, hard to describe.

It self adheres easily as they say, no issue with bubbles. It removes and re-installs easily, I put both of mine on with the wide black bar on the left, removed and re-installed both easily.

Thanks for the additional write-up.

I'm puzzled about this (and several other similar) statements though: "...the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare." Don't you mean least glare?  If so, there are several other places where the same mistake was made. (If not, please explain...)

KBKB wrote:

elliottnewcomb wrote:

Thanks for the additional write-up.

I'm puzzled about this (and several other similar) statements though: "...the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare." Don't you mean least glare? If so, there are several other places where the same mistake was made. (If not, please explain...)

Thanks for catching the weirdness of how I said it.

The most brilliant images are seen on the tv's, tablets, cameras, that do not have anti-glare coatings, (like Plazma Tvs, remember them), IF you can position/see them WITHOUT GLARE.

They are worse with glare, which is why I said, anti-glare coatings can be MORE usable in glare situations, even though they are less brilliant).

Best

My TV, I have only one window behind me, I have a solid white blackout shade behind the curtains, I lower it, absolutely no glare, and I use a remote dimmer for the lights. There is no angle for anyone that reflects the other windows at the end of the room, or the porch door with glass in it. No glass faced artwork is positioned to be problematic.

Worse

JR has a 2 story living room, atrium, skylights, tall windows everywhere, trying to see any TV, even his with an anti-glare coating is difficult, a reflective screen would be even worse. People have to stand near the TV screen at angles to reduce glare if they want to see sports action, etc.

If we ever look at a house for sale, I look to see where the sound system would go, and where the home theater would go. Many homes do not have either, very few have both. I am more aware because I designed Boardrooms, media rooms, AV systems, and Video Conference, for Corporate Clients for 45 years.

I was doing work for CBS, Sony, and Fortune at the same time. In 1984 I got the first 30" CRT in America, from Sony, (or so they told me) for Fortune Magazine's Boardroom , it was HUGE.

elliottnewcomb wrote:

KBKB wrote:

elliottnewcomb wrote:

Thanks for the additional write-up.

I'm puzzled about this (and several other similar) statements though: "...the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare." Don't you mean least glare? If so, there are several other places where the same mistake was made. (If not, please explain...)

Thanks for catching the weirdness of how I said it.

The most brilliant images are seen on the tv's, tablets, cameras, that do not have anti-glare coatings, (like Plazma Tvs, remember them), IF you can position/see them WITHOUT GLARE.

They are worse with glare, which is why I said, anti-glare coatings can be MORE usable in glare situations, even though they are less brilliant).

Best

My TV, I have only one window behind me, I have a solid white blackout shade behind the curtains, I lower it, absolutely no glare, and I use a remote dimmer for the lights. There is no angle for anyone that reflects the other windows at the end of the room, or the porch door with glass in it. No glass faced artwork is positioned to be problematic.

Worse

JR has a 2 story living room, atrium, skylights, tall windows everywhere, trying to see any TV, even his with an anti-glare coating is difficult, a reflective screen would be even worse. People have to stand near the TV screen at angles to reduce glare if they want to see sports action, etc.

If we ever look at a house for sale, I look to see where the sound system would go, and where the home theater would go. Many homes do not have either, very few have both. I am more aware because I designed Boardrooms, media rooms, AV systems, and Video Conference, for Corporate Clients for 45 years.

I was doing work for CBS, Sony, and Fortune at the same time. In 1984 I got the first 30" CRT in America, from Sony, (or so they told me) for Fortune Magazine's Boardroom , it was HUGE.

I see. Thanks for the additional explanation.

KBKB wrote:

elliottnewcomb wrote:

elliottnewcomb wrote:

I just peeled the factory coating off my old m1 and my brand new m3. Replaced with Larmor glass covers, I highly recommend doing it.

1. remove the coating: It is a strong film, it does not rip into pieces, you get one corner started a bit, I used a small knife, others have mentioned dental floss. then pull slowly and firmly. m1 hold the body, m2 or m3 hold the lcd against the body so it doesn't move, pull.

you can see that the thick factory cover (off, curled up) is not fully transparent

the larmor kit and installation procedure is excellent: fear not, you will be able to get it on straight, no fingerprints, no air bubbles. Notice the black border, the wider right side goes on the right. I put both of mine on upside down, and just as they say, easy removal, and re-install

It comes with a cleaning wipe for the camera's glass surface, and both sides of the new glass protector are covered with film that you remove, which is why you won't get fingerprints on it.

Press from the center, it self adheres as they say, unlike film covers, you get no air bubbles.

Done, improved protection and visibility, $15.

This is why I recommend finding an open box m3 with scratches on the lcd, that is often what gets the price down, and you do this to it and get the factory warranty.

http://www.amazon.com/LARMOR-Self-Adhesive-Optical-Screen-Protector/dp/B00AY2PSZQ

LCD.

We want to see to frame, see adjustments live prior to shooting, verify focus, verify exposure.

Transparency

If you look at a TV or a Tablet, the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare. They need to be positioned properly. If you cannot avoid glare in it's intended room, you get one with a layer of anti-glare coating. The images will not be as brilliant, but, with less glare, it will be MORE usable.

Cameras are the same. Sony's THICK STRONG ANTI-GLARE PLASTIC FILM, applied to the glass lcd, is meant to reduce glare, and protect the glass. It reduces full transparency, but also reduces reflected glare.

LCD 'Sunny Weather'

setting is very good, helps a lot in glare situations, at the beach, etc. Definitely try it.

Problems with coatings

It can de-laminate, as one of mine did, nasty, and visible when the camera is on.

Factory plastic film will scratch, many many micro scratches, and deeper scratches if not very careful. When the camera is on, most scratches are inconspicuous.

IF you add a layer of screen protector on top of the factory plastic anti-glare film, you are reducing transparency a bit, and the reflective quality is that of whatever you added.

Air bubbles, look nasty, but most are not visible when the camera is on. You can micro scratch the added film trying to get the air bubbles out, before you use it even once.

My prior method was to use cheap film, cut to fit, use until ugly, replace every few months.

EVF

solves MOST situations when LCD glare is excessive. Gives steadier shooting position. Only most, due to lack of an eye-cup, and any position when you cannot use the camera in EVF position, low shot of flowers, around someone's head in a concert, etc.

M1, LCD only

a case can be made for anti-glare coating, Sony's factory solution. Anti-glare will be MORE usable in many situations, especially when using the 'Sunny Weather' setting. Anti-glare screen protectors exist, to simply add protection to a factory lcd film, or to replace a removed factory film.

The primary reason to add something is to prevent scratches to the factory film, or remove and replace it due to excessive scratches.

M3, EVF and LCD

First, the M3 coating is softer than the M1 coating, it scratches more easily, and deeper than the M1 coating. Happily, that gives more Open Box scratched lcd opportunities.

EVF solves MOST glare situations, a case can be made for removing the factory coating, and adding a coating giving more transparency, (and more glare).

REMOVING FACTORY COATING

I was nervous, especially removing a factory fresh M3 coating, but, I am glad I did.

It definitely comes off. It is thicker than you imagine. It is stronger than you imagine, it is less transparent than you realize.

Some of you are being too gentle/timid. Just dig a corner up, and pull darn hard, no lift off stuff of any kind will work.

There is a wide black area of the lcd that is unused, if you are afraid of scratching the glass, start more aggressively with a corner on the right side.

Larmor Glass Cover $15.

It is glass, much harder to scratch, more transparent than Sony's factory film, and more glare, how much, hard to describe.

It self adheres easily as they say, no issue with bubbles. It removes and re-installs easily, I put both of mine on with the wide black bar on the left, removed and re-installed both easily.

Thanks for the additional write-up.

I'm puzzled about this (and several other similar) statements though: "...the best images, by far, are the ones that have the most glare." Don't you mean least glare? If so, there are several other places where the same mistake was made. (If not, please explain...)

I do not see that statement? Looked for it twice. He seems to be talking about lcd not images.

Anyway I am happy I removed antiglare from all my sony cams, and installed glass protectors.... much crisper viewing, but I shoot using EVF so glare does not bother me.

Thanks for all the interesting info folks.  I have ordered a glass protector for my new M3 and will just install it over the factory film.  The screen on my 3 year old NEX-5N is good (it has a glass protector since day 1).  If/when the factory film deteriorates then I will peel it off.