Olympus e-PM2 - what am i doing wrong?

Nice photos you have a good eye. Don't give up on iAuto. It works well on my camera. But the PASM modes definitely give you more control. Did you turn on the SCP?
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/90891174@N04/

Yep I have SCP. Some modes don't seem to let me adjust exposure, or maybe they do but i haven't figured out how. I'm still learning all the controls but the SCP makes things a lot easier!

Pikme wrote:

Congratulations! These look great, good start!

A note about using A mode or P mode - usually P mode works really well for beginners (and advanced users, too), which is why I suggested it. You can keep an eye on what the camera chooses and make adjustments as needed.

However, I've found that these cameras tend to make somewhat unfortunate aperture choices with the kit lenses - lots of f11 and even f13 when shooting in bright sun. Not sure why this is, except perhaps Olympus is trying to mimic what you'd get if using a digicam (small aperture/big F number makes everything focused). That doesn't happen with the more expensive lenses, where you are more likely to get much larger apertures (providing selective focus, blurred backgrounds, lower ISO) when using P mode. There is nothing inherently wrong with f11, but as you progress you will probably want to start isolating focus and sharpness rather than having the whole photo sharp. The lenses are usually sharpest at f5.6 or f4, but that's a pixel peeping issue and not important at this stage, you won't notice any difference and neither will anyone else.

So you have the choice of using P mode and keeping an eye on the aperture setting (if you care) or using A mode to set the aperture yourself. If you use A mode in bright sun, you'll have to keep an eye on the exposure warnings just to make sure you aren't overexposing. Not usually a problem for most folks, but those of us in really sunny bright areas do have to pay attention.

Thanks. Yes I have a lot to learn about aperture...once i understand a bit more i'll start experimenting with it and hopefully get some nice photos.

I have purchased PM2 and really like it. Decided to get another one as I have two Oly lenses: each one with a lens installed and no need to change lenses. Then switched my mind to M10, which has a viewfinder builtin. I like your bridge photo - well done! I even downloaded and edited little to add some light while kipping the mood (on my taste). I think that your taken photo is little underexposed. Adding +0.7 or so (adjust based on blinkis) compensation and then adjust exposure in editor would do good.

Leo

Wow that looks great! I've never tried to edit a photo, i wouldn't even know what software to get, but its something i would definitely like to learn. I left the exposure as it was for these photos - grey subject matter on an overcast day are never going to look perfect, but your adjustments have definitely improved it. I'll have to find some editing software and have a play around...

KeMc wrote:

I have purchased PM2 and really like it. Decided to get another one as I have two Oly lenses: each one with a lens installed and no need to change lenses. Then switched my mind to M10, which has a viewfinder builtin. I like your bridge photo - well done! I even downloaded and edited little to add some light while kipping the mood (on my taste). I think that your taken photo is little underexposed. Adding +0.7 or so (adjust based on blinkis) compensation and then adjust exposure in editor would do good.

Leo

Wow that looks great! I've never tried to edit a photo, i wouldn't even know what software to get, but its something i would definitely like to learn. I left the exposure as it was for these photos - grey subject matter on an overcast day are never going to look perfect, but your adjustments have definitely improved it. I'll have to find some editing software and have a play around...

Dear friend, post processing (PP) in deed like developing negative film back in the film age, is a major factor for a good final output. IMHO PP represents 50% of the interest and enjoyment of digi-photo. The different is, back in the film days, dark room, equipment and chemicals etc was not for everyone. The digital age now we simply need a computer and a software. We could do everything that even a film development master might not do. Sharpening, softening, darkening, lightening, white balance etc changes in part, on certain specific area, or on a whole could make our images up to another level.

For best PP result, shoot in raw would be better than jpg. All we have to do is to shoot conservatively. Not too under exposed shadow, not over blown highlight, and in reasonably sharpness on our subject. Then, through PP, we would definitely output a good image (technically, not artistically, since it would require more other factors).

I used to Photoshop. Recently, a complementary copy of DxO had made my life much easier. You may try it since everything more or less automatic (correction for HDR; i.e., dark & light, and automatically correction on any specific combination of body+lens for distortion, chromatic abbreviation etc). And it is much cheaper than the latest Photoshop. Using it, I don't need to pay for the much more expensive updated version of Photoshop anymore. I would use it initially to develop my raw into jpg and then further touching in old version of photoshop.