With your 5D3 raw files, what's your lightroom develop workflow?

Started Apr 19, 2014 | Discussions
billythek Veteran Member • Posts: 5,260
Re: What is CC ?

"Yes, I am one of those suckers who fell for Adobe's insidious $10/month CC + LR deal. So far I like it."

Is it true that any files you save have to be saved to the CC (if that's how it's described) and if you stop paying your $10/month you can't open the files?

Where did you get that ridiculous idea? No. The application is run locally on your machine just like CS6. The is some storage on the cloud that you can use, but you don't have to.

The only requirement for internet is every 3 months the application needs to touch base with the license server.
--
- Bill

 billythek's gear list:billythek's gear list
DxO One Canon EOS 5D Mark III Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
DFPanno
DFPanno Veteran Member • Posts: 5,475
Ah; OK.
toomanycanons Forum Pro • Posts: 12,247
Re: What is CC ?

billythek wrote:

"Yes, I am one of those suckers who fell for Adobe's insidious $10/month CC + LR deal. So far I like it."

Is it true that any files you save have to be saved to the CC (if that's how it's described) and if you stop paying your $10/month you can't open the files?

Where did you get that ridiculous idea? No. The application is run locally on your machine just like CS6. The is some storage on the cloud that you can use, but you don't have to.

The only requirement for internet is every 3 months the application needs to touch base with the license server.
--
- Bill

I read it on the internet.    Really, it wasn't something I spontaneously made up.

How about, if you indeed save them locally but stop paying (therefore don't have CS6) can you open the files in CS5?

billythek Veteran Member • Posts: 5,260
Re: What is CC ?

billythek wrote:

"Yes, I am one of those suckers who fell for Adobe's insidious $10/month CC + LR deal. So far I like it."

Is it true that any files you save have to be saved to the CC (if that's how it's described) and if you stop paying your $10/month you can't open the files?

Where did you get that ridiculous idea? No. The application is run locally on your machine just like CS6. The is some storage on the cloud that you can use, but you don't have to.

The only requirement for internet is every 3 months the application needs to touch base with the license server.
--
- Bill

I read it on the internet.    Really, it wasn't something I spontaneously made up.

How about, if you indeed save them locally but stop paying (therefore don't have CS6) can you open the files in CS5?

Why wouldn't you have CS6 if you wanted it? CS6 is different than CC.

If you save files as JPG or TIFF you can open them with pretty much anything. Not sure if you would have problems with opening PSD files from CC in CS6. I suspect not, but I haven't tried. But I don't use PSD files in my flow.
--
- Bill

 billythek's gear list:billythek's gear list
DxO One Canon EOS 5D Mark III Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
toomanycanons Forum Pro • Posts: 12,247
Re: What is CC ?

billythek wrote:

billythek wrote:

"Yes, I am one of those suckers who fell for Adobe's insidious $10/month CC + LR deal. So far I like it."

Is it true that any files you save have to be saved to the CC (if that's how it's described) and if you stop paying your $10/month you can't open the files?

Where did you get that ridiculous idea? No. The application is run locally on your machine just like CS6. The is some storage on the cloud that you can use, but you don't have to.

The only requirement for internet is every 3 months the application needs to touch base with the license server.
--
- Bill

I read it on the internet. Really, it wasn't something I spontaneously made up.

How about, if you indeed save them locally but stop paying (therefore don't have CS6) can you open the files in CS5?

Why wouldn't you have CS6 if you wanted it? CS6 is different than CC.

If you save files as JPG or TIFF you can open them with pretty much anything. Not sure if you would have problems with opening PSD files from CC in CS6. I suspect not, but I haven't tried. But I don't use PSD files in my flow.
--
- Bill

AFIK, you can't buy just CS6, it has to be a part of the whole CC thing. Yes, you download CS6 to your computer but it reverts to being a "trial" if you stop paying your yearly or monthly subscription to CC.

Go on to Amazon and show me where I can indeed just buy a copy of CS6.

billythek Veteran Member • Posts: 5,260
Re: What is CC ?

billythek wrote:

billythek wrote:

"Yes, I am one of those suckers who fell for Adobe's insidious $10/month CC + LR deal. So far I like it."

Is it true that any files you save have to be saved to the CC (if that's how it's described) and if you stop paying your $10/month you can't open the files?

Where did you get that ridiculous idea? No. The application is run locally on your machine just like CS6. The is some storage on the cloud that you can use, but you don't have to.

The only requirement for internet is every 3 months the application needs to touch base with the license server.
--
- Bill

I read it on the internet. Really, it wasn't something I spontaneously made up.

How about, if you indeed save them locally but stop paying (therefore don't have CS6) can you open the files in CS5?

Why wouldn't you have CS6 if you wanted it? CS6 is different than CC.

If you save files as JPG or TIFF you can open them with pretty much anything. Not sure if you would have problems with opening PSD files from CC in CS6. I suspect not, but I haven't tried. But I don't use PSD files in my flow.
--
- Bill

AFIK, you can't buy just CS6, it has to be a part of the whole CC thing. Yes, you download CS6 to your computer but it reverts to being a "trial" if you stop paying your yearly or monthly subscription to CC.

Go on to Amazon and show me where I can indeed just buy a copy of CS6.

Study some more.
--
- Bill

 billythek's gear list:billythek's gear list
DxO One Canon EOS 5D Mark III Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
toomanycanons Forum Pro • Posts: 12,247
Re: What is CC ?

billythek wrote:

billythek wrote:

billythek wrote:

"Yes, I am one of those suckers who fell for Adobe's insidious $10/month CC + LR deal. So far I like it."

Is it true that any files you save have to be saved to the CC (if that's how it's described) and if you stop paying your $10/month you can't open the files?

Where did you get that ridiculous idea? No. The application is run locally on your machine just like CS6. The is some storage on the cloud that you can use, but you don't have to.

The only requirement for internet is every 3 months the application needs to touch base with the license server.
--
- Bill

I read it on the internet. Really, it wasn't something I spontaneously made up.

How about, if you indeed save them locally but stop paying (therefore don't have CS6) can you open the files in CS5?

Why wouldn't you have CS6 if you wanted it? CS6 is different than CC.

If you save files as JPG or TIFF you can open them with pretty much anything. Not sure if you would have problems with opening PSD files from CC in CS6. I suspect not, but I haven't tried. But I don't use PSD files in my flow.
--
- Bill

AFIK, you can't buy just CS6, it has to be a part of the whole CC thing. Yes, you download CS6 to your computer but it reverts to being a "trial" if you stop paying your yearly or monthly subscription to CC.

Go on to Amazon and show me where I can indeed just buy a copy of CS6.

Study some more.
--
- Bill

Well, that was convoluted. I finally found out how on an Adobe forum:

"You can still upgrade from Photoshop CS5 to CS6. $199 USD for non-extended versions. It is a little hidden and very convoluted, but from Adobe home page go Products > Creative Suite 6 > Photoshop CS6 > Buy CS6 > Photoshop CS6> Buy ($699) and where it says "I want to buy: Full" click on "Full" dropdown menu and choose "Upgrade", then choose CS5 from the "I own" dropdown menu. You should see the price drop to $199"  Whew.

tko Forum Pro • Posts: 12,574
no presets

1.) Open RAW
2.) Look at image
3.) Do what needs to be done based on my vision
4.) Export to PS and finish.

No, I'm not being snide. To me, presets are just rules waiting to be broken.

-- hide signature --

professional cynic and contrarian: don't take it personally

Jim Cassatt Veteran Member • Posts: 4,867
Re: With your 5D3 raw files, what's your lightroom develop workflow?

Depends on what I a shooting.  These days I use my 5DMKIII mainly for portraits.  So I start at the top, adjusting exposure and wb plus contrast if necessary.  Sometimes I have to play with the shadows and highlightshighlights.  I generally don't sharpen portraits.  If I also want to do B&W, I will make a duplicate copy.  For any extensive retouching, I move to Photoshop.  Any final cropping or printing is done in LR.

For landscapes or cityscapes, I have been using my Fuji X-E2.  There I start at the bottom after first doing a global adjustment of the wb.  I love the Velvia setting.  It really pops the colors.  I then level and adjust the verticals.  Then I adjust the sharpening.  Moving up, I use selective color luminence and saturation, especially for the skies.  Moving further up, I adjust the exposure and contrast as needed and finish off bt playing with the clarity and vibrancy.

-- hide signature --
 Jim Cassatt's gear list:Jim Cassatt's gear list
Fujifilm X10 Canon EOS 40D Canon EOS 300D Canon EOS 5D Mark III Fujifilm X-E1 +24 more
toomanycanons Forum Pro • Posts: 12,247
Re: no presets
1

tko wrote:

1.) Open RAW
2.) Look at image
3.) Do what needs to be done based on my vision
4.) Export to PS and finish.

No, I'm not being snide. To me, presets are just rules waiting to be broken.

My own personal presets come in real handy when I'm importing 100 images I need to work on.

MiraShootsNikon Contributing Member • Posts: 927
The Order that Works for Me
2

The Photo Ninja wrote:

Do you use the camera calibration tab? First, second, last? Which setting do you use?

What other tweaks do you use on the majority of images?

My basic routine: Spot / Retouch --> Exposure --> Contrast and Tone --> Color --> Sharpen / Detail.

Step-by-step, that means that on Import, I:

[1] Brush --> Clone / Heal. I do this first because cloning / healing is most responsive before you've accumulated a stack of edits the system needs to churn through to render them.

[2] Crop / Rotate.

[3] Camera Calibration --> Profile: I pick the look I want to start with, which often corresponds to the camera mode I shot with.

[4] Basic --> Exposure: I adjust to suit.

[5] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, RGB: I set the black point, adjust the white point, and create a tone curve that gives me the contrast and general tone I want. Usually I use the target adjustment tool to set and level the points.

[6] Gradient and/or Brush --> Exposure: I dodge / burn any selective areas to suit.

[7.1] Basic --> Shadows: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and +15)

[7.2] Basic --> Highlights: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and -15)

[7.3] Basic --> White Balance: adjust to suit.

(I almost never touch the contrast or the black and white sliders, mostly because I already set these points more definitively when creating my tone curve.)

[8.1] Basic --> Saturation: adjust to suit--get a baseline color level.

[8.2] Basic --> Vibrance: adjust to suit--tweak the baseline I set with Saturation.

(I almost never touch the Clarity slider. I think that what it does in either direction is gimmicky and ugly.)

[9] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, Channels: here I adjust the individual channel curves to hit the image's final color. Often I'm just setting black / white / mid levels for the red, green, blue curves to get true black, true white, etc., but for many fashion images I'll also tone / crop shadows or highlights, or create a cross-processed look, here.

[10] HSL --> Hue: any quick final color adjustments to suit.

(I almost never touch Saturation or Luminance.)

(I also almost never touch Split Toning. I tend to do my black-and-whites in NIK Silver Efex Pro.)

[11] Brush --> any detail adjustments: brightening eyes, adjusting eye color, selective sharpening of facial features and wardrobe details.

[12.1] Detail --> Sharpening, Amount: pull positive just to "cut" through any AA filter haze, not to actually add acuity.

[12.2] Detail --> Sharpening, Radius: pull to match your lens's smallest projected airy disk over your sensor's pixel grid. I.e., if your lens projected pin-point sharpness that corresponds to one-and-a-half of your sensor's pixels, your radius is 1.5. Back when I was shooting a Nikon D2Hs with massive pixels, I almost always set this below 1. Now, with the 5D3's much smaller pixels, I'm usually around 1 - 1.3.

[12.3] Detail --> Sharpening, Detail: pull to add deconvolution sharpening. Again, I'm not trying add acuity I didn't capture, just trying to maximize what the sensor got. Usually between 28 and 35.

(I don't touch Masking. I think masking your RAW pre-sharpeneing gives photographs an uneven, "choppy" texture. I also don't ever really use Noise Reduction. I'd always rather take the noise than lose the acuity.)

[13.1] Lens Corrections --> Basic: check Enable Profile Corrections and Remove Chromatic Aberration

(Sometimes I will back down the Lightroom default lens vignetting correction and keep a little of the lens's natural fall-off.)

[13.2] Lens Corrections --> Manual: correct geometry to suit, if necessary.

FINIS!

 MiraShootsNikon's gear list:MiraShootsNikon's gear list
Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm f/2.8D Nikon D750 Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D Tamron SP 35mm F1.8 Di VC USD +2 more
toomanycanons Forum Pro • Posts: 12,247
Re: With your 5D3 raw files, what's your lightroom develop workflow?
1

So, Photo Ninja, here's one of your quotes from another thread:

"Also, as much as I don't like post processing, it really is something that you MUST do if you are going to get the most out of your images from your 5D3."

Now that you've heard us going on and on on this thread, tell me:  what post processing did you do before you asked us about our LR workflow?

toomanycanons Forum Pro • Posts: 12,247
Re: The Order that Works for Me

MiraShootsNikon wrote:

The Photo Ninja wrote:

Do you use the camera calibration tab? First, second, last? Which setting do you use?

What other tweaks do you use on the majority of images?

My basic routine: Spot / Retouch --> Exposure --> Contrast and Tone --> Color --> Sharpen / Detail.

Step-by-step, that means that on Import, I:

[1] Brush --> Clone / Heal. I do this first because cloning / healing is most responsive before you've accumulated a stack of edits the system needs to churn through to render them.

[2] Crop / Rotate.

[3] Camera Calibration --> Profile: I pick the look I want to start with, which often corresponds to the camera mode I shot with.

[4] Basic --> Exposure: I adjust to suit.

[5] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, RGB: I set the black point, adjust the white point, and create a tone curve that gives me the contrast and general tone I want. Usually I use the target adjustment tool to set and level the points.

[6] Gradient and/or Brush --> Exposure: I dodge / burn any selective areas to suit.

[7.1] Basic --> Shadows: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and +15)

[7.2] Basic --> Highlights: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and -15)

[7.3] Basic --> White Balance: adjust to suit.

(I almost never touch the contrast or the black and white sliders, mostly because I already set these points more definitively when creating my tone curve.)

[8.1] Basic --> Saturation: adjust to suit--get a baseline color level.

[8.2] Basic --> Vibrance: adjust to suit--tweak the baseline I set with Saturation.

(I almost never touch the Clarity slider. I think that what it does in either direction is gimmicky and ugly.)

[9] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, Channels: here I adjust the individual channel curves to hit the image's final color. Often I'm just setting black / white / mid levels for the red, green, blue curves to get true black, true white, etc., but for many fashion images I'll also tone / crop shadows or highlights, or create a cross-processed look, here.

[10] HSL --> Hue: any quick final color adjustments to suit.

(I almost never touch Saturation or Luminance.)

(I also almost never touch Split Toning. I tend to do my black-and-whites in NIK Silver Efex Pro.)

[11] Brush --> any detail adjustments: brightening eyes, adjusting eye color, selective sharpening of facial features and wardrobe details.

[12.1] Detail --> Sharpening, Amount: pull positive just to "cut" through any AA filter haze, not to actually add acuity.

[12.2] Detail --> Sharpening, Radius: pull to match your lens's smallest projected airy disk over your sensor's pixel grid. I.e., if your lens projected pin-point sharpness that corresponds to one-and-a-half of your sensor's pixels, your radius is 1.5. Back when I was shooting a Nikon D2Hs with massive pixels, I almost always set this below 1. Now, with the 5D3's much smaller pixels, I'm usually around 1 - 1.3.

[12.3] Detail --> Sharpening, Detail: pull to add deconvolution sharpening. Again, I'm not trying add acuity I didn't capture, just trying to maximize what the sensor got. Usually between 28 and 35.

(I don't touch Masking. I think masking your RAW pre-sharpeneing gives photographs an uneven, "choppy" texture. I also don't ever really use Noise Reduction. I'd always rather take the noise than lose the acuity.)

[13.1] Lens Corrections --> Basic: check Enable Profile Corrections and Remove Chromatic Aberration

(Sometimes I will back down the Lightroom default lens vignetting correction and keep a little of the lens's natural fall-off.)

[13.2] Lens Corrections --> Manual: correct geometry to suit, if necessary.

FINIS!

Holy Carp, man.  That's some list.  Enough to scare away a newbie for sure!

MiraShootsNikon Contributing Member • Posts: 927
Don't fear the reaper!

toomanycanons wrote:

MiraShootsNikon wrote:

The Photo Ninja wrote:

Do you use the camera calibration tab? First, second, last? Which setting do you use?

What other tweaks do you use on the majority of images?

My basic routine: Spot / Retouch --> Exposure --> Contrast and Tone --> Color --> Sharpen / Detail.

Step-by-step, that means that on Import, I:

[1] Brush --> Clone / Heal. I do this first because cloning / healing is most responsive before you've accumulated a stack of edits the system needs to churn through to render them.

[2] Crop / Rotate.

[3] Camera Calibration --> Profile: I pick the look I want to start with, which often corresponds to the camera mode I shot with.

[4] Basic --> Exposure: I adjust to suit.

[5] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, RGB: I set the black point, adjust the white point, and create a tone curve that gives me the contrast and general tone I want. Usually I use the target adjustment tool to set and level the points.

[6] Gradient and/or Brush --> Exposure: I dodge / burn any selective areas to suit.

[7.1] Basic --> Shadows: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and +15)

[7.2] Basic --> Highlights: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and -15)

[7.3] Basic --> White Balance: adjust to suit.

(I almost never touch the contrast or the black and white sliders, mostly because I already set these points more definitively when creating my tone curve.)

[8.1] Basic --> Saturation: adjust to suit--get a baseline color level.

[8.2] Basic --> Vibrance: adjust to suit--tweak the baseline I set with Saturation.

(I almost never touch the Clarity slider. I think that what it does in either direction is gimmicky and ugly.)

[9] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, Channels: here I adjust the individual channel curves to hit the image's final color. Often I'm just setting black / white / mid levels for the red, green, blue curves to get true black, true white, etc., but for many fashion images I'll also tone / crop shadows or highlights, or create a cross-processed look, here.

[10] HSL --> Hue: any quick final color adjustments to suit.

(I almost never touch Saturation or Luminance.)

(I also almost never touch Split Toning. I tend to do my black-and-whites in NIK Silver Efex Pro.)

[11] Brush --> any detail adjustments: brightening eyes, adjusting eye color, selective sharpening of facial features and wardrobe details.

[12.1] Detail --> Sharpening, Amount: pull positive just to "cut" through any AA filter haze, not to actually add acuity.

[12.2] Detail --> Sharpening, Radius: pull to match your lens's smallest projected airy disk over your sensor's pixel grid. I.e., if your lens projected pin-point sharpness that corresponds to one-and-a-half of your sensor's pixels, your radius is 1.5. Back when I was shooting a Nikon D2Hs with massive pixels, I almost always set this below 1. Now, with the 5D3's much smaller pixels, I'm usually around 1 - 1.3.

[12.3] Detail --> Sharpening, Detail: pull to add deconvolution sharpening. Again, I'm not trying add acuity I didn't capture, just trying to maximize what the sensor got. Usually between 28 and 35.

(I don't touch Masking. I think masking your RAW pre-sharpeneing gives photographs an uneven, "choppy" texture. I also don't ever really use Noise Reduction. I'd always rather take the noise than lose the acuity.)

[13.1] Lens Corrections --> Basic: check Enable Profile Corrections and Remove Chromatic Aberration

(Sometimes I will back down the Lightroom default lens vignetting correction and keep a little of the lens's natural fall-off.)

[13.2] Lens Corrections --> Manual: correct geometry to suit, if necessary.

FINIS!

Holy Carp, man. That's some list. Enough to scare away a newbie for sure!

Post processing takes what it takes, ya know?

But it certainly takes waaaaaay longer to write it out or to read this procedure than to actually do it. I had to really think about it to actually explain it--it's kind of just instinct / habit / muscle memory at this point.

 MiraShootsNikon's gear list:MiraShootsNikon's gear list
Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm f/2.8D Nikon D750 Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D Tamron SP 35mm F1.8 Di VC USD +2 more
OP The Photo Ninja Senior Member • Posts: 2,242
Very detailed!

Thanks for taking the time to write this down!

OP The Photo Ninja Senior Member • Posts: 2,242
Re: With your 5D3 raw files, what's your lightroom develop workflow?

I fight with all the sliders, curves, etc. I've used lightroom for years, use the custom profiles, created my own, etc. I love lightroom for organization, but really hate Adobe Standard. Camera standard looks ok, but the other profiles just don't look exactly the same as they do in camera.

I really wish there were more starting places. Specifically other dng profiles. It's raw photos, why can't I make them look like fuji or Nikon or some other brand in the camera calibration mode? There are kiss profiles, but I tried then years ago for Nikon and they were so so. I love alien skin exposure, but it's more of a finisher not editor (I really wish that program would take raw files).

More and more I use DxO. I can start with a film preset, a different camera profile, and tweak from there.

Still, I know lightroom is the de facto standard and I have it with the creative cloud, so I fight with it.

I use photo mechanic -> dxo -> photoshop if I want -> then store in lightroom.

Lightroom can do pretty much everything, but I keep looking for a magic thing I'm missing, but in the end, I can't quite get the exact colors I like. I can however in dxo.

l_d_allan
l_d_allan Veteran Member • Posts: 5,070
Start with Martin Evening's LR5 book

The Photo Ninja wrote:
If there's a start place people use

I'd start with reading Martin Evening's book on LR5, and absorbing much of it. Then find what works for you. Your local library may have it.

BTW, CC is probably "Creative Cloud", which oddly has very little to do with "The Cloud".

 l_d_allan's gear list:l_d_allan's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ3 Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ47 Canon PowerShot S110 Canon EOS 5D Mark II Canon EOS 600D +28 more
billythek Veteran Member • Posts: 5,260
Re: What is CC ?

billythek wrote:

billythek wrote:

billythek wrote:

"Yes, I am one of those suckers who fell for Adobe's insidious $10/month CC + LR deal. So far I like it."

Is it true that any files you save have to be saved to the CC (if that's how it's described) and if you stop paying your $10/month you can't open the files?

Where did you get that ridiculous idea? No. The application is run locally on your machine just like CS6. The is some storage on the cloud that you can use, but you don't have to.

The only requirement for internet is every 3 months the application needs to touch base with the license server.
--
- Bill

I read it on the internet. Really, it wasn't something I spontaneously made up.

How about, if you indeed save them locally but stop paying (therefore don't have CS6) can you open the files in CS5?

Why wouldn't you have CS6 if you wanted it? CS6 is different than CC.

If you save files as JPG or TIFF you can open them with pretty much anything. Not sure if you would have problems with opening PSD files from CC in CS6. I suspect not, but I haven't tried. But I don't use PSD files in my flow.
--
- Bill

AFIK, you can't buy just CS6, it has to be a part of the whole CC thing. Yes, you download CS6 to your computer but it reverts to being a "trial" if you stop paying your yearly or monthly subscription to CC.

Go on to Amazon and show me where I can indeed just buy a copy of CS6.

Study some more.
--
- Bill

Well, that was convoluted. I finally found out how on an Adobe forum:

"You can still upgrade from Photoshop CS5 to CS6. $199 USD for non-extended versions. It is a little hidden and very convoluted, but from Adobe home page go Products > Creative Suite 6 > Photoshop CS6 > Buy CS6 > Photoshop CS6> Buy ($699) and where it says "I want to buy: Full" click on "Full" dropdown menu and choose "Upgrade", then choose CS5 from the "I own" dropdown menu. You should see the price drop to $199"  Whew.

Glad you found it.
--
- Bill

 billythek's gear list:billythek's gear list
DxO One Canon EOS 5D Mark III Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
Jonathan Brady
Jonathan Brady Veteran Member • Posts: 6,326
Re: The Order that Works for Me

MiraShootsNikon wrote:

The Photo Ninja wrote:

Do you use the camera calibration tab? First, second, last? Which setting do you use?

What other tweaks do you use on the majority of images?

My basic routine: Spot / Retouch --> Exposure --> Contrast and Tone --> Color --> Sharpen / Detail.

Step-by-step, that means that on Import, I:

[1] Brush --> Clone / Heal. I do this first because cloning / healing is most responsive before you've accumulated a stack of edits the system needs to churn through to render them.

[2] Crop / Rotate.

[3] Camera Calibration --> Profile: I pick the look I want to start with, which often corresponds to the camera mode I shot with.

[4] Basic --> Exposure: I adjust to suit.

[5] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, RGB: I set the black point, adjust the white point, and create a tone curve that gives me the contrast and general tone I want. Usually I use the target adjustment tool to set and level the points.

[6] Gradient and/or Brush --> Exposure: I dodge / burn any selective areas to suit.

[7.1] Basic --> Shadows: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and +15)

[7.2] Basic --> Highlights: infrequently adjust to suit (usually between 0 and -15)

[7.3] Basic --> White Balance: adjust to suit.

(I almost never touch the contrast or the black and white sliders, mostly because I already set these points more definitively when creating my tone curve.)

[8.1] Basic --> Saturation: adjust to suit--get a baseline color level.

[8.2] Basic --> Vibrance: adjust to suit--tweak the baseline I set with Saturation.

(I almost never touch the Clarity slider. I think that what it does in either direction is gimmicky and ugly.)

[9] Tone Curve --> Point Curve, Custom, Channels: here I adjust the individual channel curves to hit the image's final color. Often I'm just setting black / white / mid levels for the red, green, blue curves to get true black, true white, etc., but for many fashion images I'll also tone / crop shadows or highlights, or create a cross-processed look, here.

[10] HSL --> Hue: any quick final color adjustments to suit.

(I almost never touch Saturation or Luminance.)

(I also almost never touch Split Toning. I tend to do my black-and-whites in NIK Silver Efex Pro.)

[11] Brush --> any detail adjustments: brightening eyes, adjusting eye color, selective sharpening of facial features and wardrobe details.

[12.1] Detail --> Sharpening, Amount: pull positive just to "cut" through any AA filter haze, not to actually add acuity.

[12.2] Detail --> Sharpening, Radius: pull to match your lens's smallest projected airy disk over your sensor's pixel grid. I.e., if your lens projected pin-point sharpness that corresponds to one-and-a-half of your sensor's pixels, your radius is 1.5. Back when I was shooting a Nikon D2Hs with massive pixels, I almost always set this below 1. Now, with the 5D3's much smaller pixels, I'm usually around 1 - 1.3.

Thank you for sharing all of the details! For someone like me who just purchased LR, it was great to see this and (try to - lol) understand the rationale behind it. Some follow up if I may...

  1. I googled Airy Disc and saw that it was named after the guy who described it, not actual Air which was surprisingly helpful. I also saw it was LOADED with math. Then I googled Airy Disc Calculator and found this: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm This showed me that for a 50D, the pixel 4.7 µm, for a 60D it's 4.3 µm so I figure for my 70D it's probably about 4 µm.  I also noticed that the Airy Diameter doesn't change at a given lens aperture regardless of the system used, only it's projection onto the pixel grid does (and how much area of a pixel is covered).  Now that this is out of the way (and assuming my understanding is correct)...
  2. Are you saying that whatever the Airy Diameter/Pixel Diameter is, that's what you set your radius at?  In other words, if Airy Diameter is 8 and Pixel Diameter is 4, then you set the radius to 2?  If not, can you correct me?
  3. What are the benefits/drawbacks to going higher or lower than this number?

Thanks so much for any info you're willing to provide!  And again, thanks for the detailed explanation!

[12.3] Detail --> Sharpening, Detail: pull to add deconvolution sharpening. Again, I'm not trying add acuity I didn't capture, just trying to maximize what the sensor got. Usually between 28 and 35.

(I don't touch Masking. I think masking your RAW pre-sharpeneing gives photographs an uneven, "choppy" texture. I also don't ever really use Noise Reduction. I'd always rather take the noise than lose the acuity.)

[13.1] Lens Corrections --> Basic: check Enable Profile Corrections and Remove Chromatic Aberration

(Sometimes I will back down the Lightroom default lens vignetting correction and keep a little of the lens's natural fall-off.)

[13.2] Lens Corrections --> Manual: correct geometry to suit, if necessary.

FINIS!

 Jonathan Brady's gear list:Jonathan Brady's gear list
Sony a9 Zeiss Batis 25mm F2 Zeiss Batis 85mm F1.8 Sony FE 70-300mm F4.5-5.6 G OSS Sony FE 100mm F2.8 GM +2 more
RedFox88 Forum Pro • Posts: 28,373
Re: With your 5D3 raw files, what's your lightroom develop workflow?

The Photo Ninja wrote:

I really wish there were more starting places.

Dude, with Lightroom are are infinite starting places!  Adjust your sliders, choices of many, and make it a preset.  The back of your camera likely shows you an overly bright, high contrast, high saturation presentation that isn't representative of the RAW data you captured!  You must comprehend the concept of a "starting place" in Lightroom which is a preset.  The "default" settings as you import a file with the standard setting is a preset.  I avoid "adobe" camera profiles, using Camera Neutral personally, since that is very little contrast, saturation applied.

You may need to buy a book on Lightroom if you've been using it for years but still cannot comprehend the vast tools and flexibility it offers.

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