Canon T5i Focus issues

I brought a Canon T5i last summer with the 18 x 135 lens. Since I brought the camera, I keep getting photos that are of of fucus. I know it could be user error, but I don't think it is. At least most of the time. See recent samples below. I have been taking photos for over 40 years and I have never had this problem before. Could it be the shutter speed is just to slow? Please see a few samples below and let me know what you thinks. Should I send the camera to Canon to get checked out?

Thank you,

Joel

JoelR wrote:

I brought a Canon T5i last summer with the 18 x 135 lens. Since I brought the camera, I keep getting photos that are of of fucus. I know it could be user error, but I don't think it is. At least most of the time. See recent samples below. I have been taking photos for over 40 years and I have never had this problem before. Could it be the shutter speed is just to slow? Please see a few samples below and let me know what you thinks. Should I send the camera to Canon to get checked out?

Thank you,

Joel

Hi Joel,

Your assumption about the shutter speed might be correct, especially if you go by the "rule" that the shutter speed should be at least 2x the focal length. That's more of a guideline than a "rule" and depends on how steady you are shooting handheld, and of course it probably doesn't hold true if you're shooting from a tripod.

I could have something to do with your large aperture setting as well, especially when combined with the slower shutter speeds in your examples. Looking at them full size, your last shot is the best. It also has the smallest aperture combined with the fastest shutter speed in relation to your focal length. The worse shot, #2 IMO, is just the opposite (if I remember right).

Try shooting with tighter f/stops like f/8 or just a little higher maybe f/9, and faster shutter speeds and see what happens. Too small an aperture like f/11 and especially higher will start to produce lens diffraction and actually cause softness in pictures.

Hopefully you'll see an improvement and won't have to send your camera in. I don't have either this camera or lens so am just going by the exif data in your photos. Others with this gear may have better suggestions.

Nick

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is whether you are in a Basic Zone mode (which means you have to use all autofocus points), or whether you are in a Creative Zone mode (which means you can select an individual AF point).

What mode where you in, and if you did select an AF point, which one was it?

WilbaW wrote:

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is whether you are in a Basic Zone mode (which means you have to use all autofocus points), or whether you are in a Creative Zone mode (which means you can select an individual AF point).

What mode where you in, and if you did select an AF point, which one was it?

+1 on that ... and also the AF point should be over an area of contrast for it to adjust and lock on focus, as opposed to a plain or non-contrasty area.

Nick

wave01 wrote:

first thing i would do is down load a focus chart and test the the focusing using a single centre spot focus

Yes I agree,  you need to set up a few test shots. The camera seems to be front focusing by a significant margin.

I think your camera / lens will be going to  the repair shop.

Everything is front focused by a lot.  This is not a small calibration issue (that would have been fixed via MFA if you had it).  It needs servicing.

WilbaW wrote:

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is whether you are in a Basic Zone mode (which means you have to use all autofocus points), or whether you are in a Creative Zone mode (which means you can select an individual AF point).

What mode where you in, and if you did select an AF point, which one was it?

For most of the shots, I was using the middle focusing spot and re- composing. Then I tried using all the focusing spots. I also had image stabilization turned on.

Joel

JoelR wrote:

WilbaW wrote:

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is whether you are in a Basic Zone mode (which means you have to use all autofocus points), or whether you are in a Creative Zone mode (which means you can select an individual AF point).

What mode where you in, and if you did select an AF point, which one was it?

For most of the shots, I was using the middle focusing spot and re- composing. Then I tried using all the focusing spots. I also had image stabilization turned on.

I can see a little camera motion in the second one, but overall it does look like a significant front-focus problem.

Before I would send the camera and lenses to Canon, I'd do some controlled tests. That means camera on a tripod (so no recomposition), IS off, ISO 100 in Av at maximum aperture, flat target with good contrast in good light, disturb the focus then autofocus using Quick mode with the centre point on the target and shoot with a remote release or self-timer, repeat nine more, ten shots using Live mode with the box on the target, and compare typical shots (or compare the Live image using the EOS Utility). Post a couple of shots with EXIF intact and we'll let you know what we think.

WilbaW wrote:

JoelR wrote:

WilbaW wrote:

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is whether you are in a Basic Zone mode (which means you have to use all autofocus points), or whether you are in a Creative Zone mode (which means you can select an individual AF point).

What mode where you in, and if you did select an AF point, which one was it?

For most of the shots, I was using the middle focusing spot and re- composing. Then I tried using all the focusing spots. I also had image stabilization turned on.

I can see a little camera motion in the second one, but overall it does look like a significant front-focus problem.

Before I would send the camera and lenses to Canon, I'd do some controlled tests. That means camera on a tripod (so no recomposition), IS off, ISO 100 in Av at maximum aperture, flat target with good contrast in good light, disturb the focus then autofocus using Quick mode with the centre point on the target and shoot with a remote release or self-timer, repeat nine more, ten shots using Live mode with the box on the target, and compare typical shots (or compare the Live image using the EOS Utility). Post a couple of shots with EXIF intact and we'll let you know what we think.

thanks for the tip. I will try it this Thursday or Friday, weather. Permitting.

joel

Timbukto wrote:

Everything is front focused by a lot. This is not a small calibration issue (that would have been fixed via MFA if you had it). It needs servicing.

T5i does not have MFA.

I can see a little camera motion in the second one, but overall it does look like a significant front-focus problem.

Before I would send the camera and lenses to Canon, I'd do some controlled tests. That means camera on a tripod (so no recomposition), IS off, ISO 100 in Av at maximum aperture, flat target with good contrast in good light, disturb the focus then autofocus using Quick mode with the centre point on the target and shoot with a remote release or self-timer, repeat nine more, ten shots using Live mode with the box on the target, and compare typical shots (or compare the Live image using the EOS Utility). Post a couple of shots with EXIF intact and we'll let you know what we think.

This weekend I took about 20 test photos with the T5i mounted on a tripod. I turned of image stabilization, used a remote shutter and set the lens to out of focus before taking the photos.

See four samples below.

The first photo was taken in live mode and all photos taken in Raw and converted to JPEG. All comments are welcome.

Thank you,

Joel

Taken in Live View

JoelR wrote:

See four samples below.

The first photo was taken in live mode and all photos taken in Raw and converted to JPEG. All comments are welcome.

Looks like the AF is working well under controlled conditions (both modes).

I would suggest using a single AF point at all times. AF on the eyes if you are shooting people.

If you are shooting inanimate objects, pick a good contrasty AF target.

If you are shooting a scenic, pick a focal point 1/3 of the way into the scene (for max depth of field).

Give the AF enough time to work.  Keep in mind that the actual AF zone is larger than the square in the viewfinder.

If you focus and recompose, then make sure the focus is already locked.

Remember that using all AF points will produce a high percentage of AF failures. The camera does not know what it is pointing at.  Make the camera focus on what you want it to focus on.

Keep your shutter speed up.  Use a good grip.  I noticed some camera shake present in a couple of the earlier images that were posted.  Image Stabilization will help, but it's not a cure.

If it's an important image, shoot several frames.  Refocus for each.

Myself, I like to shoot bursts when the shutter speed is slow.  There will always be one that's sharper out of the bunch.

Go out and shoot everything in sight.  Gain some confidence.  My own experience with the T4i (the T5i's evil older twin) is that the camera is an extremely capable focuser.  If you still are not getting excellent results, then check with Canon for repair/replacement.

Good luck,

R2

R2D2 wrote:

JoelR wrote:

See four samples below.

The first photo was taken in live mode and all photos taken in Raw and converted to JPEG. All comments are welcome.

Looks like the AF is working well under controlled conditions (both modes).

I would suggest using a single AF point at all times. AF on the eyes if you are shooting people.

If you are shooting inanimate objects, pick a good contrasty AF target.

If you are shooting a scenic, pick a focal point 1/3 of the way into the scene (for max depth of field).

Give the AF enough time to work. Keep in mind that the actual AF zone is larger than the square in the viewfinder.

If you focus and recompose, then make sure the focus is already locked.

Remember that using all AF points will produce a high percentage of AF failures. The camera does not know what it is pointing at. Make the camera focus on what you want it to focus on.

Keep your shutter speed up. Use a good grip. I noticed some camera shake present in a couple of the earlier images that were posted. Image Stabilization will help, but it's not a cure.

If it's an important image, shoot several frames. Refocus for each.

Myself, I like to shoot bursts when the shutter speed is slow. There will always be one that's sharper out of the bunch.

Go out and shoot everything in sight. Gain some confidence. My own experience with the T4i (the T5i's evil older twin) is that the camera is an extremely capable focuser. If you still are not getting excellent results, then check with Canon for repair/replacement.

Good luck,

R2

The test shots do look to be what Canon would  call "within spec"

All good points by R2

One more thing to consider is, the IS is normally slower then the AF. So you do need to wait that extra amount of time for the IS to settle. It could be worth while switching the IS off to see if the problem continues.

The test shots do look to be what Canon would call "within spec"

All good points by R2

One more thing to consider is, the IS is normally slower then the AF. So you do need to wait that extra amount of time for the IS to settle. It could be worth while switching the IS off to see if the problem continues.

I appreciate yours and R2 feedback. I will have to experiment with IS turned off. I am also thinking of getting the Canon battery Grip. I had one on my old Canon XT and I think it helped me hold the camera more steady.

Joel