Best PP technique for magenta / green blotching

Started Mar 5, 2014 | Discussions
Laurence Matson
Laurence Matson Forum Pro • Posts: 11,983
OT: Pushback for Khunpapa
2

khunpapa wrote:

SPP is very far, far away from being "good raw editing software" I suggest you should change onlysome Foveon-specific settings in SPP, the export it as TIFF to another decent PP software.

This may be your experienced inexperience speaking or whatever, but it is complete nonsense to say that it is far from being good raw editing software. You are welcome to think that, but you should know that there are plenty of people who think exactly the opposite, including me. I am now in year 12 of using it.

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Laurence
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Laurence Matson
Laurence Matson Forum Pro • Posts: 11,983
Another pushback
3

khunpapa wrote:

manaskarekar wrote:

I think I know what is going on here.

SPP, has a TERRIBLE "feature" that remembers the settings changed for a given photo until you reset it, even when you open a new photo altogether.

I was taken by this a few times myself until I finally figured out what's going on.

There may be a disable option for this somewhere in the preferences.

Hope this helps.

Exactly as you said.
The "disable" is not the option. It's just.here, one click away.

Oh, I so fond of Sigma! Engineer !! <groan>

Groan all you want.

I am pretty sure there is a setting for this under Preferences or Preference Settings. On the Mac and under Windows, it is the last set of checkboxes in that window. You can apply the X3F settings used for the in-camera jpeg, auto settings, or previous settings.

Strange how those Sigma engineers were able to predict your problem.

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Laurence
laurence at appledore-farm dot com
"I thought: I read something in a book, I dream, I imagine, and it comes true. And it is exactly like this in life.
"You can dream, and it comes true, as long as you can get out of the certitudes. As long as you can get a pioneering spirit, as long as you can explore, as long as you can think off the grid. So much time we spend in our education, in our lives is spent learning certitudes, learning habits, trying to fight against the unknown, to avoid the doubts and question marks. As soon as you start to love the unknown, to love the doubts, to love the question marks, life becomes an absolutely fabulous adventure."
Bertrand Piccard, a Swiss person
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http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr
http://www.howardmyerslaw.com

Oldwino Regular Member • Posts: 302
Re: Best PP technique for magenta / green blotching
1

I'm very new to all this digital PP stuff, but I played around with the RAW file a bit. First in SSP, I dialed up the fill light a touch and adjusted the color balance a tad.  Then exported a TIF to Irideint Developer for a try.  There, I applied a lot of Chroma noise reduction and dialed back the *a curve slightly.

The result seems cleaner to me, and it seems to highlight the sky a bit and the patch of farmland on the right.  A nice, sunny effect. Any attempt to bring the saturation back up just results in the green/magenta blotches reappearing.

As I said, I'm very new at this, so if this just plain sucks...Well, I am open to constructive criticism.  And I want to learn.  My feeling is that this is a tough file to work with, at least at my skill level.

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Raist3d Forum Pro • Posts: 43,171
Reality

Laurence Matson wrote:

khunpapa wrote:

SPP is very far, far away from being "good raw editing software" I suggest you should change onlysome Foveon-specific settings in SPP, the export it as TIFF to another decent PP software.

This may be your experienced inexperience speaking or whatever, but it is complete nonsense to say that it is far from being good raw editing software. You are welcome to think that, but you should know that there are plenty of people who think exactly the opposite, including me. I am now in year 12 of using it.

It wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't for the fast that it is extremely buggy and crash prone in many of its versions.  This fluctuates.  Using the very latest seems more stable now, but for quite a while when the Merrill was released it really crashed with ease, as many here posted from their experience and also did not honor some setting changes requiring a quit/re-launch.

Hopefully Sigma can focus on the software quality of SPP the same way they have put the effort and good payoff for their lenses in the last 5 years.  If they want the Quattro to be taken seriously from a workflow point of view of a paid professional, they need to put a bit more budget here.

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Laurence
laurence at appledore-farm dot com
"I thought: I read something in a book, I dream, I imagine, and it comes true. And it is exactly like this in life.
"You can dream, and it comes true, as long as you can get out of the certitudes. As long as you can get a pioneering spirit, as long as you can explore, as long as you can think off the grid. So much time we spend in our education, in our lives is spent learning certitudes, learning habits, trying to fight against the unknown, to avoid the doubts and question marks. As soon as you start to love the unknown, to love the doubts, to love the question marks, life becomes an absolutely fabulous adventure."
Bertrand Piccard, a Swiss person
http://www.pbase.com/lmatson
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr
http://www.howardmyerslaw.com

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Raist3d/Ricardo (Photographer, software dev.)- I photograph black cats in coal mines at night...
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Raist3d Forum Pro • Posts: 43,171
Re: Best PP technique for magenta / green blotching

This is one of the #1 issues for the Merrill image quality in my book. I am really hoping that Quattro gets rid of it or push the occurrence of it by at least two stops in ISO.

My only thought here is to selectively desaturate in any program that allows you to paint over the ocean region or the like.

Another thing you can try to do when shooting is do your darndest to expose to the right at ISO 100 to the point the shot seems a little over expose and recover in post, hopefully minimizing as much as possible the noise.

It seems whenever there are darker colors like the blue of the sea here you end up with a higher like hood of these blotches showing up.

Also make sure you are using the very latest version of Sigma's SPP.

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Raist3d/Ricardo (Photographer, software dev.)- I photograph black cats in coal mines at night...
“The further a society drifts from truth the more it will hate those who speak it.” - George Orwell

OP lnikj Regular Member • Posts: 190
My solution
1

Thanks for all your replies guys.

@mike & maceoQ & Raist3d - I will ETTR in the future! I normally do but I had been shooting towards the sun in the preceding shots and didn't adjust back. My bad.

Wrt desaurating, because this is occurring in solid colour regions, turning things to grey didn't help that much (it would on other images), however I had quite good results on the sea with selective hue shifting instead (though I went for another solution in the end).

@Robert & D Cox - Thanks, I learnt a technique there that I didn't know about and one that I am sure I will put to good use in the future. It wasn't 100% successful with this image but it did make a difference.

@Hornbrille - You were spot on with this observation - I spent a long time messing around with desaturating the greens and also cooling the white balance. Both worked quite well with the SPP processed images to remove the magenta cast, but I ended up with images that were too blue or with a grey sea.

@Oldwino - use of Irident became part of my solution. Thanks for your rendering of the image.

I had multiple goes at this image with both SPP and Irident, with very flat settings on both, through to some quite extreme settings.

In general I could get away with a cool white balance and no contrast boost, but as soon as the image was warmed up or the contrast pushed the problems would emerge.

What I noted in particular was that SPP had trouble with the ocean and Irident had trouble with the sky. Green in the image gave the magenta blotches in the ocean with SPP whilst Irident had no problem with these (on medium+ chroma NR settings) but produced a massive magenta bloom across the whole centre of the image and on the corners.

The solution then was to do both. After a long time not entirely successfully matching the white balance of the two images in SPP and Irident (no easy task - any tips?) I then merged the sea from Irident into the SPP image using the Hue blend mode. Both RAW developers otherwise had neutral settings throughout with just half a stop of exposure raised.

I then pushed the contrast with Color Efex's Pro Contrast and did a little colour correction in Viveza to get the white balance where I wanted it.

I'm pleased with the result. I've learnt a fair bit about processing difficult Foveon images along the way. Thanks to everybody for your suggestions and contributions.

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rjp85 Regular Member • Posts: 212
Re: My solution

Hi, I've found that Adobe Camera RAW or Lightroom's color noise reduction is a pretty decent solution to this problem which I use A LOT for DPM files.

Open the TIFF (Open As) in Camera RAW, and in the Color noise reduction section, move the "Color" slider so you can set the values for "Color Detail" and "Color Smoothness."

Set "Color Detail" to Zero, and set "Color Smoothness" to at least 50.  Slowly move the "Color" slider until the colored blotches go away.

If it messes up your color somewhere in the image, play around with the "Color Smoothness" slider, along with the value of the "Color" slider.  I really like the way it works with these files.

On well exposed images, you can end up with really great results.  Really sharp detail with no color noise or blotches.

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