Hidden in the LR 5.3 release notes... camera profiles for damn near every Oly m43 body ever

Florida Nature Photographer wrote:

Paulmorgan wrote:

No, you don`t, your asking questions about ca. lens profiles etc, these having nothing to do with camera profiles.

And then you start going on about full frame, this is were you lost me.

The only thing that is being discussed in this line of the thread is the placement of the Lightroom detail panel shown below in relation to the other detail panels. It is at the bottom and is more naturally used first. The design of Lightroom must take into consideration all types of cameras. I responded to this reply from you...

Paulmorgan wrote:

Why the mystery, most m4/3 users have never paid much attention to camera calibration, adobe have added a few edited profiles and that is all there are, edited un- realistic profiles.

The only thing that is being discussed in this line of the thread is the placement of the Lightroom detail panel shown below in relation to the other detail panels. It is at the bottom and is more naturally used first. The design of Lightroom must take into consideration all types of cameras. I responded to this reply from you...

Up until just a few days ago it was the least likely item to be used by the majority of M4/3 users, unless your like me and have been using m4/3 profiles for a very log time and even then, it matters not.

I rest my case.

Timur Born wrote:

I think the placement at the bottom makes sense in that it usually is a set & forget option that is not used half as often as the others. In many cases it might just use space at the top without being used. It's not unlikely that it also has been "hidden" away as an expert option from the more easily confused consumers.

I won't speak for others, but in my case I always go to the camera calibration panel first for my E-M5, G3, Canon 60D/30D/300D/G15/S95, and other cameras and go through the profiles to see which one gets me closest to what I want.  Then I start my processing.  I never "set and forget" it.

If you don't like Adobe Standard as your default and find yourself changing it for every picture, create a new User Preset that selects a different profile, and make that the preset that gets applied during import.

Florida Nature Photographer wrote:

Torsten Hoff wrote:

If you don't like Adobe Standard as your default and find yourself changing it for every picture, create a new User Preset that selects a different profile, and make that the preset that gets applied during import.

Actually there is a better way. Open a RAW file. Select the profile you want. Hold down the Alt key and the "Reset" button at the bottom of the Camera Calibration panel will turn to "Set Default". Click that and until you set a different default that profile will be set to every photo you import.

It will not be a lot of good if you have set profiles for different lighting conditions, different bodies or different lenses, you may as well leave the adobe profile at default and change as need be.

Timur Born wrote:

Paulmorgan wrote:

It will not be a lot of good if you have set profiles for different lighting conditions, different bodies or different lenses, you may as well leave the adobe profile at default and change as need be.

At least you can create defaults specific to camera model (actually unit by serial no.) and ISO. That should help get away with the bodies and maybe lightning situation.

I tend to produce plenty of profiles, at a wedding it could be two or three for various lighting conditions, and they then end up replacing older profiles.

If you use the Xrite Colour checker the free add on profile manager software is a godsend.

I think you can use the OOC jpeg as the DNG. That's one way to do it, whether using a color chart of a regular photo of something. With Lightroom you can export a jpeg as a DNG (the DNG is a sort of wrapper around the image). So you could take a photo of a color chart in Vivid, for instance, and then use that to create your camera profile. You could also use a photo of something and just select colors from throughout the photo and then save the recipe. Here's an article discussing it...

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/dng-profiles.shtml

As you can see the profile editor allows much more than simple chart matching. The other tabs allow for all sorts of messing around. You could probably create something that looks like an art filter with this thing.

Im up'ing this thread... I kinda interested in the experiences people have with the profiles. What works and don't. I just started with Olympus (EM10) and have only yet imported a few files.

I want to set a profile that is a good starting point. At the moment i can't really decide, Adobe standard look good but don't match the jpeg. Camera Natural matches the jpeg very good with the exception that shadows are very dark.

For the flow of things i really like the profile to match the jpeg (natural) as close as possible.

So whats you take on the profiles and what corrections to colors do you make?