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i have done it myself with my K5, an advantage to the 14.1 stops of DR as well.
And how many current sensors are ISOless apart from the K5? exactly.
Dude, do you realize how many of those same 16mp sony sensors are in cameras out there?? the same sensor in the K5? all the recent sony 16mp bodies, including NEX cameras, D7000, d5100, k5, k30, k50, k500, k-01, and that is just that one sensor. How about FF sensors they make? If you think the K5 somehow made that sensor great you are a fool, tweaking can only do so much. how about you study up genius, it's the same sensor across the board.
What matters, especially on an isoless sensor, is aperture and SS. That's it, those are the only two factors that determine exposure. The problem is, even on isoless, you can permanently clip if you push it too high with iso, which apparently you are not aware of.
Wrong; non-ISOless sensors (which is most of them) behave differently with ISO, producing less noise at ISO1600 with a +0 push than they do at ISO100 with a +4 push in post, given equivalent exposures; the whole point of ISOless sensors being 'special' is that they don't see that difference, and thus you only need to worry about aperture and shutter speed instead of nominal ISO rating and pushing/pulling as well.
"Nominal" values are due to ratings being inaccurate. If 1600 ISO is overstated and it's really 1400 ISO, yes, it's going to appear a better option than 100 ISO, which is really 100 ISO. In reality, you will end up with a darker shot because the true gain was lower. Everybody knows manufacturer ratings are inaccurate, which is why DXOmark tests around that.
Now... what happens if the image you wish to make, with the exposure you want to use, requires an ISO of 1100? what's best, 1600 nominal with a -0.5 pull, or 800 nominal with a +0.5 push? and thus you've been enlightened. About a dozen post and two threads too late.
Even if you manage to end up with a non isoless sensor, you are best shooting at the proper gain in camera, with the proper SS and even exposure. Isoless or non isoless still does not account for your assertion that using longer SS to overexpose makes sense. You keep ignoring the fundamental rule of photography, use the minimum SS possible, in order to use the lowest ISO possible (better color/DR/noise. If you had room to slow your SS to begin with, you were shooting at a higher ISO than you should have to begin with. Overexposing with improper settings does nothing to help the situation, lets give an example.
SHOT #1: 1/1000 SS (later changed to 1/500), 1600 ISO (later changed to 800 ISO), F2. This offers proper exposure at 0.
SHOT #2: 1/500 SS, 1600 ISO, F2. This offers exposure of +1.
A couple things to note here. If i could not go longer than 1/1000 due to my subject's motion, shot 2 won't work. If my subject is indeed suitable for a 1/500 SS, then i would simply change the first shot to a 1/500 SS, 800 ISO, F2 - exposure at 0. If you suggest pulling shot #2 down a full stop in post, the noise drops yes, but shot 1 was at at 800 ISO to begin with, which means it had better noise/DR/color by a full stop to begin with, and did not risk clipping highlights there.
I guess you didn't realize how many cameras had the same sensors, maybe that's because you have had your head in the sand. Odd, considering you own a sony camera, i would have thought you a Canon owner.
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