My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Started Apr 29, 2013 | Discussions
Jorginho Forum Pro • Posts: 15,047
Oke: show us how you did this.

Det ser mycket bra ut Anders! Dat ziet er geweldig goed uit!

Now: can you show us how you did this?

Thx.

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OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: Oke: show us how you did this.

Jorginho wrote:

Det ser mycket bra ut Anders! Dat ziet er geweldig goed uit!

Tack! Din svenska ser helt OK ut den med! Holländskan vågar jag inte uttala mig om men den är åtminstone fullt begriplig även för mig.

Now: can you show us how you did this?

Sure. Will be back with a "how to" post rather soon.

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
Najinsky Veteran Member • Posts: 5,739
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Anders W wrote:

Najinsky wrote:

jeffharris wrote:

Anders W wrote:

Here it is with its original Panasonic rear gel filter holder ... from the 8 mm fisheye.

With many thanks to Optical1 and Mjankor for helpful assistance along the way! This is forum cooperation at its best!

Wow. This looks like a nice, clean solution vs. some sort of front end filter which might compromise image quality due to curvature of the front lens element.

I had planned to epoxy a step-up ring the the front of an original 7-14mm lens cap, after cutting out the center face plate with a Dremel tool. Haven't gotten around to doing it yet, though.

How easy is it to remove or change rear filters? What sort of filters can you use with it? Does it affect how the lens mounts to the camera?

Do you have links to the Optical1 web suite?

I was contemplating a spare lens cap option too, but figured I couldn't just cut out the face, as presumably the gaps that give the hood it's petal shape are there to let in corner light (probably at 7-8mm).

So I was contemplating turning the cap into a claw shape, but hadn't got around to thinking what the claw would then hold.

But Anders solution looks so neat (I had my doubts!) that I think I may go for that option.

As it happens, I took about a 100 shots with the 7-14 a couple of weeks back and only 1 had flare and even then it was quite mild and not on a keeper. But I'll probably only have to browse through my flare infested Cambodian shoot to get motivation back for adding the filter!

I remember your Cambodia shots from one of the purple-flare threads and with those in mind, I can certainly see why you would want the filter as well as the holder. I guess you have already seen the thread where I report my experiences with using a Wratten 2A filter (a kind of strong UV filter) to get rid of the purpleness of the flare:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51244950

Yes, I've been following your posts on the flare quest with interest.

I'm in two minds about wanting to turn the flare from purple to white. I've been using a technique of isolating the purple from the flare and then applying a hue shift (or even replacement) to a colour that matches whatever has been obscured by the flare. It's a little time consuming and the results aren't perfect, but it's allowed me to recover a number of usable images. If I turn the flare white, it might make some shots look better, but could also make my fix a bit harder on others.

I used the lens again today in very bright overhead sun and got some flare, but as I was looking out for it, I was mostly able to change positions to eliminate it. For a few, I just had to bite the bullet and shoot, no time to change position.

Decisions, decisions; but at least you've given us options!

-Najinsky

OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end
35

OK. So here's the "how to" post I promised.

First, a brief background for those who haven't followed prior threads on this and related subjects:

The reason I became interested in using filters with the Panasonic 7-14/4 was that a filter eventually turned out to be the solution to the problem with purple flare plaguing this lens when used on the E-M5 (and probably at least some other Olympus bodies as well). As shown here, a Kodak Wratten 2A pretty much eliminates the purple color, thus making the flare far less visible than it would otherwise be (and no worse than when the lens is used on a Panasonic body).

The reason why the problem is there with at least some Olympus bodies and not with Panasonic bodies is that a) the antireflective coatings on at least some of the lens elements of the 7-14 do not fully remove reflections close to the border between ultraviolet and violet and b) the on-sensor UV-filter on the E-M5, unlike that in most/all Panasonic bodies, does not eliminate these wavelengths. The Wratten 2A, which is effectively a strong UV filter, does eliminate them and thus solves the problem.

Now, one practical solution to the problem of using such a filter with the 7-14, and the one I tried first, is simply to attach a Wratten 2A gel filter to the rear baffle by means of double-sided tape. This works just fine in my experience, provided that the tape is thin so that the filter does not protrude too far to the rear and thus risks coming into contact with the area surrounding the sensor inside the body.

However, in the process of investigating various potential solutions, I discovered that one MFT lens, the Panasonic 8 mm fisheye, did have a holder for gel filters behind its rearmost element. Thanks to the measurements and images provided by Mjankor here I could establish that this holder would probably fit the 7-14 as well. This would of course be a neater solution and would additionally make it possible to use filters other than the 2A as well, e.g., an ND filter or an IR filter. For those interested, gel filters are available from (under Kodak's brand name). Edmund Opticseven offers polarizing filters in gel form but you would of course encounter certain difficulties in rotating the piece of gel for best effect.

After some further research, I found out that the part I would need, i.e., the filter holder itself, the baffle to which it is attached, and the three screws holding the two parts together, was available as a spare part with part number VXQ1911. Regrettably, the price if I were to order it from Panasonic's service outlet in Sweden would be pretty high (about 60 USD without shipping and 70 with). In the US, it is available from Cumberland Electronics as well as from the Panasonic Service and Technology Company for about USD 20. Shipping is only about USD 10 if you are in the US but to get it to me in Sweden would cost about 40 from the first source and about 100 from the second. Fortunately, Optical1 was kind enough to help out by buying the part for me and forwarding it to Sweden.¨

Now to the question of how to mount the baffle-holder assembly once you have it. You begin of course by removing the three screws holding the original baffle to the mount. Just make sure you have a screw-driver that really fit the screws so that you don't destroy them. In the image below, I have already removed them so that the baffle can simply be lifted off.

This is what the rear end of the lens looks like after removing the baffle. Note in particular the three little "wings" on the ring around the rearmost lens element. These are probably handles to be used for tightening and untightening that ring.

Here is the original baffle seen from the back. Note that is constructed so as to provide room for the three "wings" inside the baffle.

Now let's look at the baffle-holder assembly from the back. As you can see, it does not leave room for the three wings in the same way as the baffle originally designed for the 7-14. There is an inner ring, that protrudes half a mm or so (upwards in this picture) from the broader platform surrounding it. This means that the baffle-holder assembly will land on the "wings" surrounding the rearmost element rather than on the mount when you try to put it in place. Consequently, you would put considerable tension on the plastic if you were to tighten the screws.

To resolve this problem, you need to insert a shim of some kind between the mount and the baffle-holder assembly. Ordinary washers are unlikely to work well for this purpose since the risk that they would fall down into the innards of the lens when mounting or dismounting the baffle-holder assembly would be extremely high. So I looked for another solution.

I considered using tape but found the idea a bit messy, particularly since several layers would probably be needed. Eventually, it struck me that the kind of plastic used in certain product packages would probably fit the bill. The kind of package I have in mind is the one where there is a piece of printed cardboard at the back, the product inbetween, and clear plastic on top so that you can see the product itself as the package hangs on its hook in the shop.

I eventually thought that two layers of plastic might be needed. But since you effectively make the plastic a bit thicker around the holes for the screws when you make them (I used a pretty thick needle for that purpose) one turned out to provide enough cushioning that I dared to tighten the screws fully whereas two turned out to be a bit too much. Obviously, I tried to find the thickest plastic available from the packages I happened to have laying around. In the picture below, you can see what my home-made shim looks like when put in place.

Now all that is left is to put the baffle-holder assembly in place, reinsert the screws, and tighten them. For reasons spelled out above, the baffle-holder assembly will of course protrude slightly further backwards, into the camera body, than it is meant to. However, the discrepancy is small (about half a mm or so) and does not give rise to any problem when mounting the lens on either of my two bodies (E-M5 and G1).

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Najinsky wrote:

Anders W wrote:

Najinsky wrote:

jeffharris wrote:

Anders W wrote:

Here it is with its original Panasonic rear gel filter holder ... from the 8 mm fisheye.

With many thanks to Optical1 and Mjankor for helpful assistance along the way! This is forum cooperation at its best!

Wow. This looks like a nice, clean solution vs. some sort of front end filter which might compromise image quality due to curvature of the front lens element.

I had planned to epoxy a step-up ring the the front of an original 7-14mm lens cap, after cutting out the center face plate with a Dremel tool. Haven't gotten around to doing it yet, though.

How easy is it to remove or change rear filters? What sort of filters can you use with it? Does it affect how the lens mounts to the camera?

Do you have links to the Optical1 web suite?

I was contemplating a spare lens cap option too, but figured I couldn't just cut out the face, as presumably the gaps that give the hood it's petal shape are there to let in corner light (probably at 7-8mm).

So I was contemplating turning the cap into a claw shape, but hadn't got around to thinking what the claw would then hold.

But Anders solution looks so neat (I had my doubts!) that I think I may go for that option.

As it happens, I took about a 100 shots with the 7-14 a couple of weeks back and only 1 had flare and even then it was quite mild and not on a keeper. But I'll probably only have to browse through my flare infested Cambodian shoot to get motivation back for adding the filter!

I remember your Cambodia shots from one of the purple-flare threads and with those in mind, I can certainly see why you would want the filter as well as the holder. I guess you have already seen the thread where I report my experiences with using a Wratten 2A filter (a kind of strong UV filter) to get rid of the purpleness of the flare:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51244950

Yes, I've been following your posts on the flare quest with interest.

I'm in two minds about wanting to turn the flare from purple to white. I've been using a technique of isolating the purple from the flare and then applying a hue shift (or even replacement) to a colour that matches whatever has been obscured by the flare. It's a little time consuming and the results aren't perfect, but it's allowed me to recover a number of usable images. If I turn the flare white, it might make some shots look better, but could also make my fix a bit harder on others.

I don't really think you have to fear that. As I think I might have told you in the other thread already, I have been using the brush in LR combined with WB adjustments to get rid of the purple. This works, but you get better and quicker results if the flare is not purple. In many cases, I suspect you don't really need to do anything at all about the flare if you use the 2A filter to get rid of the purple color when shooting. I don't remember having to do flare removal in PP when using the 7-14 on my G1 although the lens certainly gives rise flare with that camera too, just not purple flare.

I used the lens again today in very bright overhead sun and got some flare, but as I was looking out for it, I was mostly able to change positions to eliminate it. For a few, I just had to bite the bullet and shoot, no time to change position.

Decisions, decisions; but at least you've given us options!

-Najinsky

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
Rick Baumhauer
Rick Baumhauer Regular Member • Posts: 395
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Now this is tempting! Since I have a G5 just to mount the 7-14 on (and maybe a little bit of video work), and a 'spare' OM-D that just sits in the bag most days, this looks like it would be worth investigating.

Thanks for all the work you've put in to finding the root of the issue, tracking down the Wratten 2A and testing it, and now coming up with this comprehensive solution!

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Najinsky Veteran Member • Posts: 5,739
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end
1

Anders W wrote:

...

Excellent job Anders and thanks for taking time for sharing. Just one thought about the shim.

Now let's look at the baffle-holder assembly from the back. As you can see, it does not leave room for the three wings in the same way as the baffle originally designed for the 7-14. There is an inner ring, that protrudes half a mm or so (upwards in this picture) from the broader platform surrounding it. This means that the baffle-holder assembly will land on the "wings" surrounding the rearmost element rather than on the mount when you try to put it in place. Consequently, you would put considerable tension on the plastic if you were to tighten the screws.

To resolve this problem, you need to insert a shim of some kind between the mount and the baffle-holder assembly. Ordinary washers are unlikely to work well for this purpose since the risk that they would fall down into the innards of the lens when mounting or dismounting the baffle-holder assembly would be extremely high. So I looked for another solution.

This would bug me a little, particularly the protruding into the body aspect. The inner ring looks primarily cosmetic but perhaps forms a basic protective seal too.I would probably prefer to mill some cut-outs into the ring so it fits over the wings. A mounted Dremel would do the trick, or mark it up and pay $5 to a student at a local technical college if you don't have a Dremel.

From what you recall of the assembly, would this approach work and get rid of the extra protrusion?

One final point, you should consider copying and publishing this into DPR Article format. It would get more visibility and better site-wide indexing, and be easier to refer people to rather than a growing list of bookmarks to historic posts. I recall DPR also promised some type of brownie points for publishing articles but I've not seen anything further on that.

Thanks again for sharing

-Najinsky

Abrak Veteran Member • Posts: 4,169
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Excellent stuff, Anders. A simple and elegant solution.

Personally I am just as excited about adding an ND filter on the lens as I am about solving the purple flare problem.

Unfortunately I suspect that spare part will be a nightmare to get hold of especially as I live outside the US.

NumberOne Veteran Member • Posts: 4,064
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

You really came up to a very good and tempting solution - but most of all - you share it with all of us!

Thank you - so much - for the work and trouble putting all this together in a way we (all) can easily replicate.

Warm regards,
Pedro

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bobav New Member • Posts: 8
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

This is extraordinary calibre work. Sincere congratulations and thanks.

Do you know if any real life comparative images (with and without the 2A filter) have been posted? Yesterday's cloudless afternoon spent with my new 7-14 in Winchester Cathedral has left me very familiar with purple mirror images; but at present I can't envisage how much less obtrusive they would appear using your mod.

Also, did you consider the stronger and weaker Wratten options (2E and 2B)? Might 2E be even more effective on the E-M5?

Finally, can you still use both Panasonic and the much shallower Olympus back caps on your modified 7-14? By eye, the clearance of the Olympus version seems quite close on the Unandersed 7-14!

bridgebolt51 Forum Member • Posts: 62
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

where can we buy the holder ir the kit?

-- hide signature --

olympus user

OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Najinsky wrote:

Anders W wrote:

...

Excellent job Anders and thanks for taking time for sharing. Just one thought about the shim.

You are welcome. See comment on your thoughts below.

Now let's look at the baffle-holder assembly from the back. As you can see, it does not leave room for the three wings in the same way as the baffle originally designed for the 7-14. There is an inner ring, that protrudes half a mm or so (upwards in this picture) from the broader platform surrounding it. This means that the baffle-holder assembly will land on the "wings" surrounding the rearmost element rather than on the mount when you try to put it in place. Consequently, you would put considerable tension on the plastic if you were to tighten the screws.

To resolve this problem, you need to insert a shim of some kind between the mount and the baffle-holder assembly. Ordinary washers are unlikely to work well for this purpose since the risk that they would fall down into the innards of the lens when mounting or dismounting the baffle-holder assembly would be extremely high. So I looked for another solution.

This would bug me a little, particularly the protruding into the body aspect. The inner ring looks primarily cosmetic but perhaps forms a basic protective seal too.

Not sure I understand here. Protective seal for what?

I would probably prefer to mill some cut-outs into the ring so it fits over the wings. A mounted Dremel would do the trick, or mark it up and pay $5 to a student at a local technical college if you don't have a Dremel.

From what you recall of the assembly, would this approach work and get rid of the extra protrusion?

I considered this option. I don't have a Dremel but know how it works and where to get one if I need one. However, I abstained on two grounds. First, the deviation from "intended fit" is really trifling and there is really nothing to worry about when it comes to touching things inside the body. Second, although it looks as though it would be possible to shave off that half mm from the inner ring without problem (as I think you can see based on the picture), I would still worry slightly about the integrity of the plastics after having done the operation.

One final point, you should consider copying and publishing this into DPR Article format. It would get more visibility and better site-wide indexing, and be easier to refer people to rather than a growing list of bookmarks to historic posts. I recall DPR also promised some type of brownie points for publishing articles but I've not seen anything further on that.

Thanks for the encouragement. The thought has occurred to me and perhaps I will manage to amass the energy and time at some point.

Thanks again for sharing

-Najinsky

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Abrak wrote:

Excellent stuff, Anders. A simple and elegant solution.

Thanks!

Personally I am just as excited about adding an ND filter on the lens as I am about solving the purple flare problem.

Yes, it's nice to have that option too.

Unfortunately I suspect that spare part will be a nightmare to get hold of especially as I live outside the US.

I don't really think it should be a problem to get a hold of the part no matter where you are, particularly since you now have the part number and can skip all the explanations and potential misunderstandings. The only problem I can foresee is that you might have to pay a bit more for it than seems reasonable.

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

NumberOne wrote:

You really came up to a very good and tempting solution - but most of all - you share it with all of us!

Thank you - so much - for the work and trouble putting all this together in a way we (all) can easily replicate.

Warm regards,
Pedro

You are welcome Pedro. Glad to hear it is appreciated.

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

bobav wrote:

This is extraordinary calibre work. Sincere congratulations and thanks.

Do you know if any real life comparative images (with and without the 2A filter) have been posted? Yesterday's cloudless afternoon spent with my new 7-14 in Winchester Cathedral has left me very familiar with purple mirror images; but at present I can't envisage how much less obtrusive they would appear using your mod.

No, I don't think anything in the way of "real-life" images have been posted yet, only my rather artificial test images. But hopefully I can accomplish something like that later on if someone else does not beat me to it. I would have done it already if the light conditions inside my apartment would be more favorable for reproducing the problem as well as the solution in some more natural scene. But they aren't (or at least haven't been; winters are dark here) until lately. And if I go outside, I face the trouble of putting the filter on and off in the field (or return home to get that done). But, as I said, I'll try to come up with something anyhow.

Also, did you consider the stronger and weaker Wratten options (2E and 2B)? Might 2E be even more effective on the E-M5?

Yes, I did consider both these alternatives and I can't say I know for sure which of the three (2B, 2A, or 2E) is the ideal choice yet. 2A does seem sufficiently effective in removing the purple color of the flare but the slightly stronger 2E might take away the weak traces of it that still remain (at the expense of eliminating more of the light you'd like to preserve). My guess, based on the data at my disposal, is that 2B would be too weak, but if I am wrong about that, it would be the very best choice since it would reduce the (already very small) loss of light even further.

Finally, can you still use both Panasonic and the much shallower Olympus back caps on your modified 7-14? By eye, the clearance of the Olympus version seems quite close on the Unandersed 7-14!

Yes, both caps fit without trouble on my "Andersed" version. Not only that: I tried the even slimmer cap that you get with certain Panasonic lenses (14/2.5 and 100-300) and this works too. So no worries in this department.

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

bridgebolt51 wrote:

where can we buy the holder ir the kit?

See this prior post of mine for information on where you can find the part you need:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51390321

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
Vasyl Tsvirkunov Regular Member • Posts: 209
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end
2

Anders W wrote:

Here it is with its original Panasonic rear gel filter holder ... from the 8 mm fisheye.

Looks pretty OEM-like, doesn't it?

With many thanks to Optical1 and Mjankor for helpful assistance along the way! This is forum cooperation at its best!

After reading the original thread I've made a leap of faith and ordered the necessary part. The part was out of stock but eventually arrived a couple days ago. I was planning to do this little project during the weekend but after seeing this thread I decided not to wait. It is super easy, assuming that you have a small screwdriver available. After looking at the protruding ring I've decided to shave that extra 0.5 mm with a utility knife - took about five minutes, the plastic is not hard and shaves cleanly. I would not do it with Dremel - it could melt the plastic and/or produce very fine plastic dust, not a good idea around the delicate lens mechanism. Utility knife produced small shavings that were easy to clean out. The protruding ring needs to be shaved pretty much flat with the outer ring of the part. The structure of the part is fine after the procedure, there is more than enough plastic left everywhere.

One reason why my method may be preferable over the plastic spacer is that with the spacer there is a chance that the camera contacts will brush against one or two of the screws during insertion or removal. Of course, it depends on the thickness of the spacer. To illustrate my point, here's the back of my upgraded lens. Note the trace from the camera contacts

The filter size appears to be 22mm square with corners cut at 3-4 mm (so the shortened diagonal does not exceed 27mm). It looks like all four corners have to be cut.

OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end
1

Vasyl's post reminded me that there was one thing I forgot to include in my "how to" post, namely the instructions on filter cutting. I guessed correctly that such instructions must be included in the manual for the 8 mm fisheye that you find here:

http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/HF008-MUL.PDF

But for those who don't want to take the trouble of downloading the manual, here's how to do it:

1. Cut a square where each side is 21.5 to 22 mm.

2. Cut off each corner such that you remove 3 mm from each side.

In addition to that, let me also correct one sentence from my "how to" post where a link to Tiffen that I meant to insert disappeared. The sentence should read:

For those interested, gel filters are available from Tiffen (under Kodak's brand name).

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Vasyl Tsvirkunov wrote:

Anders W wrote:

Here it is with its original Panasonic rear gel filter holder ... from the 8 mm fisheye.

Looks pretty OEM-like, doesn't it?

With many thanks to Optical1 and Mjankor for helpful assistance along the way! This is forum cooperation at its best!

After reading the original thread I've made a leap of faith and ordered the necessary part. The part was out of stock but eventually arrived a couple days ago. I was planning to do this little project during the weekend but after seeing this thread I decided not to wait.

Hi Vasyl,

Glad to see you are joining me in the so far pretty exclusive MFT gel filter club.

It is super easy, assuming that you have a small screwdriver available. After looking at the protruding ring I've decided to shave that extra 0.5 mm with a utility knife - took about five minutes, the plastic is not hard and shaves cleanly. I would not do it with Dremel - it could melt the plastic and/or produce very fine plastic dust, not a good idea around the delicate lens mechanism. Utility knife produced small shavings that were easy to clean out. The protruding ring needs to be shaved pretty much flat with the outer ring of the part. The structure of the part is fine after the procedure, there is more than enough plastic left everywhere.

Good to know that there is an alternative solution for those who want.

One reason why my method may be preferable over the plastic spacer is that with the spacer there is a chance that the camera contacts will brush against one or two of the screws during insertion or removal. Of course, it depends on the thickness of the spacer. To illustrate my point, here's the back of my upgraded lens. Note the trace from the camera contacts

I guess you mean the screws that hold the baffle to the mount, not the screws that hold the filter holder to the baffle, right? If so, I see what you mean. But I checked before, and checked again, that there is no uneven resistance when you rotate the lens during mounting and dismounting with my solution (as there would be if one of the camera contacts risked getting stuck into one of the screw holes).

The filter size appears to be 22mm square with corners cut at 3-4 mm (so the shortened diagonal does not exceed 27mm). It looks like all four corners have to be cut.

I just added this post with precise instructions on how to cut the filters:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51400350

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
OP Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: My 7-14 takes filters ... at the rear end

Anders W wrote:

Vasyl's post reminded me that there was one thing I forgot to include in my "how to" post, namely the instructions on filter cutting. I guessed correctly that such instructions must be included in the manual for the 8 mm fisheye that you find here:

http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/HF008-MUL.PDF

But for those who don't want to take the trouble of downloading the manual, here's how to do it:

1. Cut a square where each side is 21.5 to 22 mm.

2. Cut off each corner such that you remove 3 mm from each side.

To be precise, I see that the manual tells you to remove 3 to 4 mm from each side.

In addition to that, let me also correct one sentence from my "how to" post where a link to Tiffen that I meant to insert disappeared. The sentence should read:

For those interested, gel filters are available from Tiffen (under Kodak's brand name).

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS +28 more
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