GH3 with 7-14, 12, 45 and 75

That's about the size of it!

http://wp.me/p2wMAg-iK

Samples:

7-14:

12

45

75

EXIF info on my Flickr photostream (see my signature)

Awesome to see the GH3 images, many thanks.

You say the 12mm is sharper than the 12-35mm at 12.

How would you rate the 7-14 at 12mm or if you have access to a 9-18, how does that compare?

I have the 9-18 and really enjoy it. In the 35mm film days 24mm was my goto lens, so wondering if I should splash out on the 12mm f2

My other film days goto lens was the nikkor 135mm f2, so I guess the 75mm 1.8 olympus would be a similar look and feel?

How have you found the dynamic range of the images from the GH3?

They say its improved but has it in real terms?

The only down side of moving from my fuji S5pro to m4/3 has been the lack of DR

Thanks

Paul

Very nice set of images.  You're a lucky guy to have that lens line-up!

alolywu wrote:

Very nice setup indeed...

cheers!

jalywol wrote:

Looks very good....but what is going on with the 12mm photo? For an ISO 200 shot, there is some SERIOUS grain happening!

-J

My fault, St Pauls has a tendancy to reflect light like a mirror (which means blotchy overexposure points), it's a real pain to take a picture of in the midday sun, I underexposed slightly too far in an effort to retain the detail and created some noise as a consequence. Ho hum...

artyone wrote:

Awesome to see the GH3 images, many thanks.

You say the 12mm is sharper than the 12-35mm at 12.

How would you rate the 7-14 at 12mm or if you have access to a 9-18, how does that compare?

They are pretty similar at 12. There is more distortion on the 7-14 and the 12 has a wider aperture. However the results from the 12 are weak below F2.8. The 9-18 is great but it needs stopping down to F5.6 - F7.1 to get the best results, particularly in the corners (whereas the 12 would be fine at F4). I believe the 12 is rated the sharpest of the 3 at F4.

I have the 9-18 and really enjoy it. In the 35mm film days 24mm was my goto lens, so wondering if I should splash out on the 12mm f2

I know what you mean. I think it's an excellent lens, but be aware there is sample variation (make sure you can return it, just in case there is a problem) and that F2 is for low light only.

My other film days goto lens was the nikkor 135mm f2, so I guess the 75mm 1.8 olympus would be a similar look and feel?

I think that's right, but the 75 is a stunning lens, it might even be better...

How have you found the dynamic range of the images from the GH3?

Very good indeed, despite my cack-handed underexposure of the St Pauls picture. It is at least as good as the E-M5/E-PL5.

They say its improved but has it in real terms?

Oh yes....

The only down side of moving from my fuji S5pro to m4/3 has been the lack of DR

Here are the results from the E-PL5, which should be proximate (likely same sensor):

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en./Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/(appareil1)/839|0/(brand)/Olympus/(appareil2)/511|0/(brand2)/Fujifilm

According to DXO, the S5 has better DR, but I would hazard a guess  that's because the S5 starts at ISO 100 whereas the E-PL5 starts at 200.

Thanks

Paul

Keith Schmidt wrote:

Very nice set of images. You're a lucky guy to have that lens line-up!

So my OH tells me when she threatens to make me sell about half of it...

Very nice

None of these lenses have image stabilization. That can be an issue if you don't have good light and don't have a tripod or other means of bracing the camera.  Is this a concern?

Very nice work. Would like to see more, particularly shots that show fine detail, and high ISO shots in the dark.

Best Christian

my flickr-page

my youtube-page

richarddd wrote:

Very nice

None of these lenses have image stabilization. That can be an issue if you don't have good light and don't have a tripod or other means of bracing the camera. Is this a concern?

It's a fair point, that's the downside of Panny's strategy of using OIS rather than IBIS. That said, I've shot successfully at night with the G5 as low as 1/2 by bracing myself against the nearest object. I don't shoot that much at night, so perhaps I wouldn't see the biggest issue to be honest.

No doubt IBIS (or OIS) is helpful in such conditions (it isn't all about high ISO performance if you are shooting at lower shutter speeds), but people have been shooting successfully without stabilisation in such conditions for a long time.