Fisheye or Wide-Angle for 7D
Fisheyes are typically around 150-180 degrees of viewing angle Very distorted
Ultra Wides are aver 100 (10-22 is 108 degrees of viewing angle) Some distortion
Wides are 70-100 usually
And zooms do 60 and narrower
These are approximations
Be Content with what you have; rejoice in the way things are. When you realize there is nothing lacking, the whole world belongs to you.
I would think the fish eye effect would get used very little except for a novelty shot once in awhile. Not a very good replacement for an ultra wide in my opinion. Get a UWA first then if the mood strikes you get a fish eye.
I have the 10-22 as well as the Samyang Fisheye, they are quite different lenses and fit different uses. looking back at your first post, the fisheye will be no use to you for architecture, but has a place for landscapes or sunsets producing dramatic and unusual shots but not to give an exact photographic image of what you are seeing. The 10-22 will give a wide view with some but less distortion, ( I think the fisheye claims 160 degrees and the 10-22 about 97 maximum. Personally I use the 17-40mm more (maximum horizontal angle 67 degrees) for buildings. They are different lenses and fit different niches. If you want only one lens you have to define your useage, my advice, keep the fisheye and start saving for your next.
I think I may use the 10-22 more than the fisheye. I did see some noise from my initial shots. Haven't had time to play with it yet.
Noise is not attributable to the lens, but rather, camera settings, such as ISO.
I think I may use the 10-22 more than the fisheye. I did see some noise from my initial shots. Haven't had time to play with it yet.-- hide signature --
When you get down to the nuts and bolts of photography, the results depend on the 'nut' behind the camera!
See the 'Gear List' in my 'Profile' for my current equipment.
Check out WilbaW's beginner FAQs at - http://snipurl.com/RebelFAQ
Being totally manual you have to work out the best settings for each shot. Being an 8mm lens shutter speed can be very slow without causing problems, and exposure can be sorted here before you need to push up the ISO setting. Set the camera to manual, M on top left wheel, then experiment to bring the exposure setting to centre or slight overexposure.
I added 2 photos (14+ mb each) if anybody is interested. Link below
I need to clean my sensor.
If you are considering a canon 10-22, try a tokina 11-16 also. Do a search on it, and everything positive mentioned about it is quite accurate. I had two canon 10-22's and have now two tokinas they will also work safely on full frame bodies with no risk of mirror collision (some vignetting from 11 to 13.9 on full frame body)
- Canon EOS M58.8%
- Panasonic G85/G803.3%
- Panasonic FZ2500/FZ20001.9%
- Panasonic LX10/LX151.2%
- Panasonic GH5 development3.6%
- Sony a99 II15.9%
- Nikon KeyMission 170 and 801.0%
- Fujifilm GFX 50S development28.3%
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- Olympus E-PL80.1%
- Olympus 25mm F1.2 Pro1.5%
- Olympus 12-100mm F4 IS Pro1.9%
- Olympus 30mm F3.5 Macro0.1%
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- Sigma 12-24mm F4 Art2.6%
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- GoPro Hero50.8%
- GoPro Karma drone2.2%
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