Finally Understand FA focus assist!
Mar 12, 2012
I always used the 2X enlargement for my MF assist. This works pretty well in daylight, but when the noise goes up in the EVF/Screen this works less and less well. Samsung does not explain this feature well so I decide to try to figure out FA focus assist myself. I finally figured out how it worked and wanted to share for those who didn't and use manual focus a lot either with NX or adapted lenses.
1. The green bar is measured contrast - This part was pretty obvious.
2. The epiphany was that the red line is PEAK contrast. The reason why this is confusing is because it regularly re-samples this line and so if you move the camera starts to resample. If the camera can't figure out the contrast, it will leave the last number, but sometimes this causes it to look like it in focus but it isn't. If the red line disappears, then you need to re figure out your focus zone. If the green bar is fluctuating, but the red bar is static, then you know you have a max contrast number and can try to "hit" that focus again.
3. Display the grid lines, this will give you a reference point for peak focus. With a high contrast area, I can get to the 1st line of a 1/3 divided screen.
4. The contrast focus calculation zone is in the middle. Notice how the focus zone narrows? This is the area that the bar is measuring. If you don't have have a high contrast area, hopefully you can find some high contrast areas equidistant to your zone of focus.
Basically mimic what a Contrast focus in your camera does, and this system starts to make sense. Scan through your focus zone, then when ever the red line jumps, narrow your focus to reach that peak zone. This is basically center zone focus peaking. I have only tested this at the house with low light with the kit lens, but this should work well with manual lenses.