I have purchased this item from link delight for the Sony NEX 5N for the 16mm lens and got to use it this Saturday past 18/2/2012. The case is designed for for Sony NEX 5, but the 5N sits inside the case nicely.
The preview and movie record button is not aligned to the camera body. I am not worried about the preview button as I can preview the images by going through the menu option, but as for the movie record button, I cut a thin slice of rubber eraser (less than 1mm thick and about 2mm square), and placed to sit on top of the button. Closed the case and now pressing the button activates the record function.
I have also a Canon G12 with WP-SC34 case and have used that case to a depth of 25meters - the case for the Sony NEX 5 is made of the same material, Polycarbonate. Both cases are rated to 40meters, on this dive I was in shallow water and was taking photos approx 5meters deep.
Feels reasonable good in your hands not to big.
There is no method for flipping up or down the flash. So before you dive make sure the flash is in the up position. Using the PASM modes, the flash will fire and there is no way to tell the camera not to fire the flash, so I selected the iA mode and from the menu I disabled to fire the flash when taking a photo. But the camera is fully automatic in iA mode - i prefer to have control of my shutter, aperture and ISO setting.
The dial button needs to be bigger - it is difficult to turn the dial especially if you are wearing diving gloves.
All the photos where shot in RAW, and the only post processing done is adjusting the white balance levels, brightness/contrast and saturation.
Thank you for contributing. I like the simple idea of the eraser!
Are there times when you need flash and other times you do not? Would it be practical to hold your left hand on top front when you need to block the flash? Another option to block it could be black abs plastic?
When the subject is far from me, I will not use the flash, because of backscatter, particles in the water, when the flash goes off these particles are illuminated. You can see some of that backscatter in this picture, look in the background behind the coral.
Also when I'm in shallow depth less than 5 meters, I don't really need to use the flash as I have enough ambient light coming through the water.
In dark areas or when my subject is in a shadow, will fire the flash. Past 5 meters and deeper, I start to loose colour, pictures look blue-green, and therefore I will always be needing to fire the flash, but have to be close to my subject, less than 1 meter away from me.
I did try blocking the flash, the result is a big white spot in the picture. Flash fires and bounces back into the lens. I also considered re-directing light, will attempt in the near future, place a card in front and the flash and let light bounce off away from the camera in opposite direction.
You may already know this but there is something called a Magic Filter you can buy to add the color back into the picture. Its mean to be used without a flash. Its very cheap and I think its something to consider.
Also i was watching video from an UW photography instructor today. He said his rules were:
Get on the same level (Never shoot down)
Shoot with the sun to your back
Manual white balance every 2 meters
I'm going to try to remember this on my next trip
I was quoted $1650 AUD housing for the Sony 5N, extra for the lens port depending what you need. It is better build quality, and all functions of camera can be used. Housing is from Nauticam..
But really for that price, I prefer to buy Ikelite UW housing for the Canon 60D $1600, extra for lens port.
Yes, a red filter, will work. And the techniques, get close, then closer. The Sony 5N with 16mm has a minimum focusing distance, beyond that point your pics are blurry. Unlike my G12 in macro mode, my subject can be 1cm away from the lens and be in focus.
Always shoot with sun behind you, as much I position myself this way, sometimes the fish are not co-operating. You are right don't shoot down, horizontal or shoot slightly upwards.
Well after clearing customs my housings have been sitting at USPS at JFK for 9 days! Today it actually changed status and may soon be headed to Texas. That will be about a 3 week delivery time. If you want your housings sooner you may need to try the expedited shipping option with linkdelight. I didnt know one existed when i placed my order.
I got my housings today and wanted to post some things i found.
So far i have only done out of water fitting and measuring different lens combinations with the long housing. From that i have found the following:
18-55 kit lens provides a 10mm space between the lens and the housing
Based upon this and measurements I see from other Sony lenses online it appears you could get the Pancake + Fisheye, in this without a problem.
The 50 prime, 30 Macro and 24mm Zeiss should also fit without a problem.
Because the macro will leave a 14.5mm gap between the lens and port so when you factor the short macro capabilities of the lens you will have to have the port within 2 inches of the subject. That's problematic i think.
If you use the kit lens you have to zoom to 37mm to get the lens to contact with the inside of the port.
By using the 24 Zeiss you would have about 5.5mm of a gap
If you are wondering why im measuring all of this its because i want to put a wet lens on the outside of the port. To really make it work i need the lens to be at 19.5mm and touching the port glass. As you can see none of the combinations will give me that.
On the upside those of you who are in love with the pancake could buy the fisheye and the long housing and MIGHT have a decent and very cheap setup. The reason i say might is because someone with these lenses needs to test it before its recommended..
The other good news is with this gap you could install a red filter (google magic filter) and that could help restore colors in shallow water without using a flash.
Ill be testing the 160 degree wide angle in a pool this weekend so ill report back then.
This housing is very cheap, and with the large sensor may give the best ratio between image quality under water and price.
I got the 16mm version. There's no space for a filter on mine.
I get much better images with this than my Canon Ixus 700 and it's housing.
However, the housing is badly built.
The mechanism to close the housing is not reassuring.
The steel rusts. The tripod threads are bad.
On my house it's not completely sealed, there's a crack between the two halves. I've been down to 28 m without any water leakage, though.
My house couldn't reach the video button. When I put about 1 mm of tape under the button on the house, this was fixed.
I can't rotate the scroll button on the back, it's too stiff.
The material in the neck strap is very slippery, and if used the camera could fall on the ground. I had to sew these together.
It's a little difficult to see what you're taking photos of, because of reflections in the house. It should have an antireflex coating or something.
There's no way to turn the flash on or off. Sony should fix this in a firmware upgrade. Sony also needs to make a under water scene mode or white balance mode.
The last time I used it, one of the buttons constantly was constantly pushing the lower button on the 4-way controller, making the camera constantly scrolling through various settings depending on what other buttons I used. Very annoying, and a lot of the pictures I took ended up bad.
So, all in all the under water housing is a bad product, but at a very affordable price. Considering that you may put a very good camera in it, I'm pleased with the combination overall.
Thanks for the info, as I will be making a purchase later on with the long lens port to fit the 30mm macro lens for macro shots..
Diving this Saturday, will post some more pictures afterwards...
I did a mod making my new Linkdelight NEX-5 to 5N capable. It took about 20 minutes and was FREE..
Parts & Tools needed
3/32nd drill bit.
I used a Christmas light hold down yard stake (because it was the 1st thing i saw in my garage..)
Needle nose pliers
Record Button - I just removed the black plug and cut a ~ 1/4 " piece of wire. I then rotated the wire inside the needle nose until it would slide though the existing hole. I then shaped it to the photo. Took about 5 minutes..
Play button - I measured the wire and used a 3/32 drill bit. I guessed at where to drill the hole and placed my finger under the blue lever for support while i gently (not wanting to put a hole in my finger ) drilled through the lever. Shaping this wire took several trys because i should have drilled the hole a 1/16 to 1/8" farther back. Anyway it works 100% of the time.
Let me know what you think.
Pool Test #1
Its been a busy week. I received my housings, did the 5-> 5N mod on the long lens version, bought a bunch of Sony lenses and did my first in pool test.
1 (I Broke it)!
I broke a little part inside my housing after putting silicone on the o-ring. I’m not sure what happened but after greasing the ring the housing would not shut. I removed and reinstalled several times. The the plastic lip that’s under the top clip snapped. I then installed the 2nd o-ring supplied with the kit and this time used the supplied o-ring lube they included in place of the expensive camera o-ring lube I had. I’ve read reports of some o-ring lube causing the o-rings to expand. Im not sure if this was the case but I would say use whats included and don’t loose the tube!
2 Pancake adapters = FAIL
The Sony pancake lens adapters will NOT fit inside this housing without cutting the black runner skirt that is inside the tube. The reason why the skirt is there is to keep the light flash from going down the lens tube. At this point in time I’m not up for cutting it. The reason why the adapters wont fit is because of the non-removable plastic light flare protection they put on them. The plastic piece take the lens to 66mm (width) and that’s too wide.
3 Housings not a perfect fit
The housing does not fit these cameras perfectly. When you put the camera in its just kinda floating inside the housing and not tightly pressed against anything. When you turn the camera on the rotation of the switch causes the camera to tweak downward inside the housing. That rotation causes 2 problems. #1 The buttons on the back sometimes work and sometimes don’t. The reason being is that they are too far away from the case. (Tip to fix this at the end) #2 The lens barrel gets tweaked down also and while not normally a problem if you attach anything on the outside of the tube you can see the bottom corners more than the top. To get around this you have to zoom in more than you would normally because you are compensating for the rotation.
4 Wet Lens Mounts
I placed a 62mm – 52mm step down ring on the housing to mount a 52mm wide angle lens. Because the lens tube is longer than it needs to be by ~ 9.5mm I could immediately see the step down ring when the camera was set wider than 28mm. When I threaded the UWL-04 on the housing I had to take it to 37mm to hide the lens tweak issue stated above. By having to zoom in so far it really cuts down on the coolness of the wide angle I was looking for. Sadly I didn’t have much time work through this before the pool closed and overnight the owner has sold the lens to someone else.
Ready for some good news?
After the pool I got home and tested the lenses. I was just shooting and swapping lenses inside my kitchen with no flash. It was really hard to tell much until I got them on the computer. I was just scrolling through them and when I got to the 50prime 1.8 I was like cool! That lens made the others look really poor in comparisons. This morning I started testing the 50-1.8 in some really dark conditions and was really impressed. Also with the IS I was able to shoot at 1/60 hand held in the dark… (see the cat photo). In the pool the 50 was really bright and lots of fun to play with. The only real problem is the 50 is LONG for UW use and cant focus real close.
Fix for the hard to press buttons
As I mentioned before the buttons are hard to push. I believe others have stated this as well. The reason is because they are too far away from the housing. The solution is really simple. Just place something inside the housing to push the camera toward the buttons. I tested this with 2 foam earplugs and it worked great. I’ll make a more permanent fix this week.
1. Use the included O-ring lube only
2. Space your housing to make the button work easier
3. Use fast lenses
4. Lean to shoot full manual
5. Try 1/40 @ 2.2
Install my camera tray
Return my pancake, Fisheye, 30 macro and 50-1.8
Order & Fed-X the Ziess 24mm 1.8 to take on vacation
:o (I’m going big!)
Went out for a dive Saturday, conditions were not so good. Visibility was not great and it felt like I was in a washing machine, strong currents. But I managed to take some pictures with the Sony NEX 5N and 16mm lens...
Some video samples...
Didn't read entire thread, was the Nauticam for Nex-5N and Nex-7 already mentioned?
I know there are expensive housings out there like aquatica an-5 etc. but I found this on eBay today. And can't find any info about the company, can't find a YouTube video of opening box or anything.
Anybody knows anything about this decent lookin yet very reasonable housing? ($81)
Description says it is for nex 5. Do you thing nex5n will work in this guy?
Honestly it reminds me of Canon's sd point and shoot housings which are reliable and inexpensive.
This thread is very helpful !
Thank you for all contributor to this thread
This housing seems very useful for its relatively cheap price.
But, we need much wider lens choice to take UW scenery.
Probably, this 8mm 2.8 fisheye lens from Rokinon might be fit to long housing?
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